Sugar Cane Denim

[Hopethisoneisnttaken]

Even though this is a SC denim thread, this isn’t denim, so please bear with me. (We don’t have a SC other stuff thread. I checked) But the development of this indigo madras from them too good not to share. It was quite dark blue when I bought it about a year ago.  
 

 

[yung_flynn]

11 hours ago, Hopethisoneisnttaken said:

Even though this is a SC denim thread, this isn’t denim, so please bear with me. (We don’t have a SC other stuff thread. I checked) But the development of this indigo madras from them too good not to share. It was quite dark blue when I bought it about a year ago.  
 

 

I’ve been curious about these for a while. Do these use the Original Madras Trading Company madras fabric? My understanding is that most all madras fabric in the market comes from them  

I’ve been on a madras kick lately. I would have more but I’m very particular about patterns and try to avoid the overtly 80s preppy colors. The SC ones are mostly to my taste. 

Edited June 7 by yung_flynn

[Hopethisoneisnttaken]

1 hour ago, yung_flynn said:

I’ve been curious about these for a while. Do these use the Original Madras Trading Company madras fabric? My understanding is that most all madras fabric in the market comes from them  

I’ve been on a madras kick lately. I would have more but I’m very particular about patterns and try to avoid the overtly 80s preppy colors. The SC ones are mostly to my taste. 

TBH I don’t really know. I know what you mean about the preppy ones. It’s hard to find good ones. I think some of the mister freedom ones are also really cool, but LS. Also Workers have some really cool madras. 

[MJF9]

So the SCSC '42 jeans landed... and post-wash the w34 were snugger than I'd hoped.  Looking at other pairs, mine came up on the smaller end of the spectrum.  The target was a reasonably voluminous pair, with a big enough waist to allow some decent cinching.  In fact, I liked the pre-wash fit better than post wash...

...so, stuck in the worm hole, I then got a w36... and they meet the original brief... I like 'em (many won't) cinched up with no belt.  The w34 has the bells and whistles... both w34 and w36 have been hemmed with original cotton from Toyo...

w34 before and after washing

w36 before and after washing

Edited June 11 by MJF9

[Double 0 Soul]

Reading between the lines.. it sounds like someone needs to come to terms with the fact they’re no longer a W34 

I think they both look great but I’d go for the W36 if you plan to wash lots and W34 if it’s (like me) every 6mths or just keep both and compare wash routines on the denim.

The unwashed W36 looks very unflattering.. makes you look 6” shorter and 4” wider.

[MJF9]

Hahaha well... my other SCSC 45s and 43s are w34, as are all my FW (albeit those feel more generous in some fits)... this was definitely a small pair by the measurements compared to other actual measurement I know of... hanging on in there still... just 😬

The w36 unwashed were humungous. I had them hemmed longer cos I wanted a f-off cuff and to allow me to wash hotter on 40C (the w34 was washed on 30C). The final pic is cinched to almost the max (cinch fades ftw)... not a smooth rear image in any way but I don't give a sh!t as I don't look at it

Keeping both atm but if one was to go based on fit (rather than bells and whistles) it'd be the w34... we'll see

[vIGGiou riou]

IMO w34 would stretch after 1 day, but w36 would allow you to use the cinch more... both after wash look good

Edited June 11 by vIGGiou riou

[Double 0 Soul]

4 minutes ago, MJF9 said:

this was definitely a small pair by the measurements

Remind me again .. what size were those SC-47s ?

[MJF9]

22 minutes ago, Double 0 Soul said:

Remind me again .. what size were those SC-47s ?

Haha tagged W34 but industrial one-washed to a w32... which fit... just 🫣  so got ya there kidder!!! 😀

Niice chance to remind folk they are for sale, cheers! Great jeans but no patience to stretch them plus the rise is low for my preferences!!

F me Neal they are 82cm though iirc which is 32.283 inches... forget tag size lads and lasses, go on measurements 😬

[ATWM]

Idk about yall but I definitely shoot for unflattering when I am sizing raw/unwashed. It remains to be seen if I ever land on flattering after the process is over but if they’re flattering when raw I’m typically a bit concerned about comfort, at the very least. 

Edited June 11 by ATWM

[AnOldFolkSong]

https://misterfreedom.com/collections/ranger-shirts-nos-madras

https://oconnellsclothing.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=madras

https://jpressonline.com/search?q=madras&type=product

https://www.jcrew.com/search?term=madras

https://www.ralphlauren.com/search?lang=en_US&rootLevelCat=&br=t&q=madras

https://www.brooksbrothers.com/search?q=madras&lang=en_US

https://gant.com/search?lang=en_US&q=madras

I've been thinking of just buying a bunch of madras fabric and making shirts through a local shirtmaker.

[Maynard Friedman]

@MJF9 what bells & whistles do the size 34 have that the size 36 don’t?

[tooth]

@MJF9 I was a bit surprised by the fit of the 42’s as well. I was expecting a bit more of a generous cut maybe more in line with the 43’s. I do really like how the 42’s I have fit (and most everything else about them - great denim, color, details, etc), but the cinch is basically useless - would have been nice to have had to snug it up.

Comparing the SC 42’s to Freewheelers 42’s - both size 32” - there’s an appreciable difference. The FW’s are much more generous throughout and the cinch is needed.

[Double 0 Soul]

9 hours ago, ATWM said:

Idk about yall but I definitely shoot for unflattering when I am sizing raw/unwashed. It remains to be seen if I ever land on flattering after the process is over but if they’re flattering when raw I’m typically a bit concerned about comfort, at the very least. 

Oh yes.. i do agree.. (my FW-47s looked weird af when raw.. the hip flare was insane) but just comparing the above fits.. the silhouette of both W34 doesn't look much different but the comparison bewteen the raw and washed W36 is stark.

Tell you what does look unusual.. is how open / protruding the belt loops are? obvs will settle down but are other folks noticing this?

[MJF9]

@tooth agree re the cut... the cinch on my w34 is redundant for me, however it is necessary and useful on the w36. I checked raw sizings with mates and across a few stores and there is quite a lot of variability... I wonder if this was an intentional quirk? Not quite CSF levels of variation but noticeable on the 42.

@Double 0 Soul the w36 had a 40C and a 30C wash; the w34 had a 30C and a 20C. I'll dig out numbers when I get chance. And yep agree the belt loops look interesting and need a closer look!

The w36 pics are different which is adding to the apparent disparity methinks - the 'before' has shadows accentuating the size and the pic angle with arms folded in a t-shirt is giving me mini-Popeye vibes (where my mind went, at least!)

@Maynard Friedman nothing to see here mate... look over there... monkey with a shotgun

Good job there's only a handful of us that look in this corner of the web 😀

Edited June 12 by MJF9

[Maynard Friedman]

Wow! I simply must stop looking over there… 🫣

I totally agree with what you said about the angle of that w36 before photo by the way, definitely changes the perspective.

Having said that, I think you need to buy a w35 just to make sure 😆

[Double 0 Soul]

45 minutes ago, MJF9 said:

@tooth agree re the cut... the cinch on my w34 is redundant for me, however it is necessary and useful on the w36. I checked raw sizings with mates and across a few stores and there is quite a lot of variability... I wonder if this was an intentional quirk? Not quite CSF levels of variation but noticeable on the 42.

I hate this^ shit .. the only thing that matters is that your jeans fit.. it's completely irrelevant what the patch says.. more so when the size stamp becomes illegible after the second wash.. nobody has ever bought i'll fitting, ball crushing jeans because it's a repro quirk..

In day's of yore, when folks bought their jeans at the local store, they would have simply chosen a larger or smaller size if the sizing labels were inaccurate but the way we shop nowadays means you're selling ppl jeans that don't fit for the sake of your own vanity project..  I can excuse the first run of CSF to some extent because they were supposed to be bought over the counter in store.. i may or may not have been a contributing factor in why they wasn't  

Edited June 12 by Double 0 Soul

[MJF9]

Yep I made the point earlier the tag is irrelevant, it's all about actuals. When you need to pre-order jeans before sizes are totally nailed, based on estimates, and then there is variability in the same models sizing once delivered, it's a simple fact that it'll affect the fit if you're committed to a certain size. The SCSC 42s do vary, based on the sampling I saw. 

It's not like we can go in a shop easily (for many, at least) and try them on. That'd obviously be much better. I can't even remember the last time I did that. 

The CSF bloke made me a type 1. He said it'd be to minimum dimensions which we agreed. It arrived and was completely different. The arm was about 50cm with a tiny cuff. Did not meet the minimum spec. Fortunately, I had the audit trail, sent it to him, I returned it and he made me a new one... and we all lived happily ever after... the end 

[Dr_Heech]

@MJF9 CSF dimensions deserve a thread of their own 😂

[indigoeagle]

The question is, whether the SCSC are based on the repro pattern also with regards to tag size and measurements or whether SCSC is aiming to have all models sized similarly (at least in the waist) to make it easier for customers to choose?
If they're doing it the first way, the question is of course why Levi's in the 40s had different waist measurements for the same tag size. Because of the war restrictions and general chaos of the time?

[Double 0 Soul]

Even the nerdiest of nerdy denim-nerds never said..

"Ooh! .. i like your jeans.. and i can tell based on your build that you usually wear a size 32" but on very close inspection of the patch.. it quite rightly says 34" so you've obviously sized up due to the manufacturers reproducing a sizing quirk"

Never happened.. never will, just sell me jeans that f'kin fit.. ffs! 

It's not even difficult.. make the jeans.. make the intentional mistakes if you will.. but when they're made, just measure them up before sewing on the appropriate patch.. jeez?!

[indigoeagle]

Hehe

I was surprised like 15 years ago, when I went to a Stockholm  shop and wanted to try on some jeans.
The friendly guy working there asked what size I was wearing and I answered "mostly 34".
He then handed me a 32. I said 34. And he smiled and said "Try it on".
It fitted perfectly.
That was when I learned about vanity sizing.
Didn't make any sense to me, like you said.

[MJF9]

If we take the example of the latest Lee 101-LJ that @Dr_Heech posted...

Same model, different shops, different measurements

Is the measuring wrong? How hard can it be to get to a reasonable tolerance?!

Or is the measuring correct, but the item dimensions are different for the same tag-size?

The stuff of sleepless nights, I tell thee 😉

[indigoeagle]

12 hours ago, AnOldFolkSong said:

https://misterfreedom.com/collections/ranger-shirts-nos-madras

https://oconnellsclothing.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=madras

https://jpressonline.com/search?q=madras&type=product

https://www.jcrew.com/search?term=madras

https://www.ralphlauren.com/search?lang=en_US&rootLevelCat=&br=t&q=madras

https://www.brooksbrothers.com/search?q=madras&lang=en_US

https://gant.com/search?lang=en_US&q=madras

I've been thinking of just buying a bunch of madras fabric and making shirts through a local shirtmaker.

The O'Connell's shirts are really nice. Made from proper Indian madras fabric.

[Dr_Heech]

15 minutes ago, MJF9 said:

If we take the example of the latest Lee 101-LJ that @Dr_Heech posted...

Same model, different shops, different measurements

Is the measuring wrong? How hard can it be to get to a reasonable tolerance?!

Or is the measuring correct, but the item dimensions are different for the same tag-size?

The stuff of sleepless nights, I tell thee 😉

Possibly one unsettled night only for me as between contacting BF and you about it l had given myself a good hard talking to on several occasions and decided that unless l get concrete info re- measurements, l'm gonna leave it. 48 hours later, l was fine. Got my og Stormrider out and thought "nah, l don't need it".

I think it's just too risky altogether plus there's the added import duties ( last order l got stung big time and it has put me off ordering from Japan again).

l am just trying to enjoy what l already have but get tempted still by the odd piece. Luckily with me being crap on the internet,  they have become harder to obtain so l can save for other things 🙂

 

 

[Maynard Friedman]

50 minutes ago, Double 0 Soul said:

Even the nerdiest of nerdy denim-nerds never said..

"Ooh! .. i like your jeans.. and i can tell based on your build that you usually wear a size 32" but on very close inspection of the patch.. it quite rightly says 34" so you've obviously sized up due to the manufacturers reproducing a sizing quirk"

Never happened.. never will, just sell me jeans that f'kin fit.. ffs! 

I think @MJF9’s experience with Mavis on the checkout till proves otherwise, she seems very clued up on his sartorial and sizing habits. My guess is she works in Asda or Morrison’s as it’s oop north.

Also, manufacturers need to be clear whether their products are shrink TO or FROM tag size. They don’t even need to be explicit about these but it can be implied from clear, accurate and consistent measurements across all pairs and models. I think Warehouse is very good at this.

[Double 0 Soul]

2 hours ago, Maynard Friedman said:

I think @MJF9’s experience with Mavis on the checkout till proves otherwise, she seems very clued up on his sartorial and sizing habits. My guess is she works in Asda or Morrison’s as it’s oop north.

Jeez.. Martin, Don't! .. you're triggering my PTSD.. check this mad shit out, when we used to live out in the sticks, Sarah would buy our daily food from M&S (don't tell @Geeman but she used to work there doing Visual Merchandising.. window displays and such so we used to get staff discount giving us 20% off so we could eat fancy food from M&S for the same price as Tesco food.. hence my long and much derided association with Marks & Spencer..  .. is it all coming together now G?

At the weekend, i would drive to a huge out of town Asda or Morrison's for all the shit she couldn't carry.. the best part was the boy and i could stuff our faces on the 'cheese on a stick' freebies at the deli counter.. the second best part was their build your own pizza.. when the kid was little and Sarah was on very extended maternity leave.. we would go on adventures in the woods on Sunday morning, a couple of pints at the country pub, walk back home and he would have an afternoon nap while Sarah cooked Sunday lunch.. when he got to school age, we'd be out in the Peak District and Sarah would stay home, wash her hair and catch up on shit she'd missed in the week being a busy working mum.. but because i've never paid much attention to the time.. by the time we got home Sunday dinner was often ruined so one day she said "fuck it!.. if you two can't come home on time.. i'm not doing Sunday dinner again" so rather than binning off the Peaks we reverted to pizzas on Sunday evening which we could just bang in the oven.. we still have Sunday pizzas now..

I digress.. since i've been riding to work, i can't pick up a weekly shop so we have it delivered but you can't get 'make your own pizzas' delivered so i've been trying to find somewhere that makes them.. We only have a M&S Foods or a Waitrose nearby and neither do.. anywho, late last year, my mum asked me to go to Morrison's and get her 6x bottles of wine which were on offer.. i noticed they did 'make your own pizzas' so i drove there again the following week.. the pizzas were fucking great, family loved them and asked if i could get these again next week.. so i did, it was the same woman who served me but she was uncomfortably flirtatious.. call me shallow but if she was attractive, i'd feel flattered.. but she doesn't even have a full set of teeth.. i was polite as per.. but the next week, she started making lewd innuendos.. like fking Les Dawson.. then she said "Ooo i like the way that you talk and everything" wft! ..maybe because i don't sound like i'm from the fucking arse-end of Sheffield .. i made a point of saying "the mushroom one is for my wife" "the spicy chicken is for my kid"..

..i told the family that it was freaking me out and i couldn't bear to go back.. they just laughed and said "i needed to man up"..  last week i asked for a pizza and she said "i thought you'd come in to ask me out" my god, can't a sexy denim-head go buy pizzas without being perved over by a toothless woman?

..after i had a mini-freakout when i got lost in Ikea, just having to go to unfamiliar places is really triggering for my anxiety so knowing i have to go get pizzas on Saturday and deal with this shit is making me feel anxious from Thursday onwards.. 

[Maynard Friedman]

You and Betty (or whatever her name is - and apologies to anyone with an important female in their life who shares that name) from Morrison’s can go on a double date with @MJF9 and Mavis and talk denim details, what a lovely pair of arcs you boys have and how they’d love to checkout your selvedge fly plackets, etc. Mavis and Betty might even know each other!

[Double 0 Soul]

How old do you think we are? .. my unwanted love interest is probably a Debbie or a Julie 

[Maynard Friedman]

My first draft had her as Tracy! Old episodes of Coronation Street influenced my final choice though, especially as @MJF9’s bit on the side is Mavis.