Unknown Japanese Brands

[Double 0 Soul]

Thanks Tilmann, i like my jeans to fit on the looser end of perfectly but if i would have bought these jeans in my regular size 32, they would probably have been a tad too big.

...not like that was ever an option, of course.

[shredwin_206]

Very nice Neil. I’ve never owned a pair of Levi’s or Levi’s repro but this thread has me interested 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

On 1/11/2020 at 8:09 PM, Double 0 Soul said:

Thanks Tilmann, i like my jeans to fit on the looser end of perfectly but if i would have bought these jeans in my regular size 32, they would probably have been a tad too big.

...not like that was ever an option, of course.

Always a gamble with old/deadstock jeans...you never really know how accurate the measurements are.

What was you criteria when choosing such on obscure brand/model?

 

By the way, I remembed this strange old brand I bought off Yahoo some years ago: Shin Craft
They should also be somewhere here in this thread

[Double 0 Soul]

Saved in drafts i have an ever increasing list of pre-lawsuit repro's which i scour the interwebz for when i get a spare hour... travelling through denim wormholes along the way... I also have their Lot. numbers and 'translate fuck'ups' ie- those ^^^Buckayro's can not be found by typing 'Buckayro' into Yahoo but 'Backayro' turns up results, as does 'Bakayro' I enjoy the search even though i don't buy much nowadays.

 

I wear a 32" in pretty much all brands albeit loosely so if they do come up small i can still swing a 31" (M41001 and such) If they come up big, i don't fret, i just wear a belt and embrace the looseness.

 

Here's another XX repro from the 90's golden era,

Slap Shot in store brand... Scovil hardwear, No arcs, Tab reads 'BEST'

 

There are a number of cuts in the line up.

[Double 0 Soul]

I should also add that most of these lesser known, golden era jeans can be had for peanuts if you're prepared to do your homework. There doesn't seem to be much of a market for them inside JP unless they're collectors items with all stickers, booklets, swing tickets still attached.

Those RRR's for instance in a lightly worn state were delivered to my door with all fees and shipping taken care of for less than £70 so it's an easy re-sell if the sizing goes a bit askew, not bad for a 1/250 MiJ 90's repro, probably the same price as mass produced high street Levi's.

[Broark]

Saw these on Instagram the other day, hard to tell with the black and white photos but nice looking stuff from Jimmy & Sons Overalls: http://www.reddishbrown-co.com/jimmy-sons-overalls

Also I listed my YM Factory 20's on Grailed if anyone is interested, trying to move them so I can buy a size up. Let me know. 

[Broark]

Just won this YM Factory made chambray pullover on Yahoo, made for Matin.
Only 30 shirts were made for Matin's 10 year anniversary, seems like a nice chambray.

[Double 0 Soul]

Damn, that's a beautiful pop over!

I'm not 100% sure about the pocket, i can't quite figure out if it looks too small or too close to the placket but every other aspect  is 10 thumbs up.

How much...how much?

[Broark]

Got it for $150, throw in another 15-20 bucks for shipping.
Not bad considering it looks brand new, and when bought fromMatin it was going for ~$220 USD.
Here's some more photos from Matin with the vintage shirt that inspired it.

[Double 0 Soul]

Nice! it must be the fold throwing me off, the corner of the pocket on the og version looks to be much closer to the arm seam than the repro, have they not reproduced the throat latch?

Edited February 2, 2020 by Double 0 Soul

[Broark]

Nope, the strap is included just happened to be hiding in the photos I posted.

[aho]

https://vintage.matin.jp/?pid=145518797

Picked up a pair by DM'ing Matin on instagram. You can customize inseam as well as leg opening (!), and construction takes about ten days til delivery (international delivery available). Will report back once it arrives. Shout out to @Broark for vouching for these, and posting images earlier in the thread. Not sure why these are being slept on as they have all the hallmarks of greatness: Interesting fabric, small batch custom made to order, affordable ($230 USD shipped), linked to YM factory (can pull allllll the historic examples needed)

[Broark]

Looking forward to seeing yours come in @aho. And I’ll sell my 36’s to anyone here for $150 so I can put it towards a pair in a size up. 

[unders]

Great find Aho & Broark. Looks like they stocked the YM denim pullover which looks fantastic. I have to confess I wanted to slide into his DMs to ask how much it was but assumed it would be astronomical and didn’t want to look like a pauper.  Not cheap but not outrageous considering how nice it is. 
Looking forward to updates. 

[Maynard Friedman]

Bartack CB001 still available at PSA for ¥17,600 In sizes 28-31.

A couple of other cuts/models are available too but in smaller sizes only.

[julian-wolf]

Anyone here know chemistry? What’s the patch say?

[mlwdp]

I’ve been wearing a lot of obscure motorcycle eccentric brands lately like HWZN BROSS, Evilact, etc.  

[Maynard Friedman]

I’m not sure what it is @julian-wolf but I have found the old dedicated Bartack thread

[alpharikk]

Have you guys already heard this one? Baby Scene Osaka, Made in Japan of course..

 

another picts..

[Broark]

Just got the Matin chambray, it's a little dark out but took a couple of photos. Tried it on briefly and it fits really well.
I'll get some better photos soon, really nice shirt. Seems like it's brand new and unworn.

[SLAB]

beautiful shirt!

[MJF9]

^^ nice catch!!

[volvo240thebest]

This thread needs some extra detail shots of the LB denim (rebuilt.jp) jeans. I am really pleased that i had the chance of grabbing these jeans from @Broark . They are very good in every possible aspect, from fit ta fabric to construction and attention to detail. Clearly a lot of thought has been been put into the making of these jeans. I think the maker has found a very nice perspective on jeans making, the construction and fabric choice is clearly repro oriented tho the jeans don't have suspender buttons, and the maker offers the possibility of customising the hem width too. 

This is my third pair of 1922 501xx repro, so I had the chance of comparing them with tcb 20s and warehouse 1004xx. The fit is quite different from the other two jeans, notably they're cut slimmer in the hips, giving that elusive slender/straight stovepipe fit. They're also a little bit more tapered than the Warehouse and Tcb counterparts.

here's some close ups, it's a cloudy and overcast day, the color is quite true. The shade of blue feels almost under saturated, and I remember I felt the same with the 20s denim when new. Warehouse it's definitely a different style of fabric, a touch heavier and much more neppy. The belt loops are made out a lighter fabric (as it was with the original) with the exception of the back centre belt loop which is made with the same denim of the jeans.

the pockets fabric is considerably folded. Also Tcb 20s have a bit of this fold but it's not nearly as noticeably. I wonder if it plays a role in the fit.

 

The coin pocket stitching uses two different colors, I wonder if it depends by a color variation of the thread or if it's a deliberate choice.

4 button fly with all donut buttons, it's not iron. Don't think it's a true detail but donuts buttons are the coolest, always.

you can see these jeans fit close to the hips from the wear patterns. 

inner fly construction, beautifully unfinished as it should be

 

Pekaboo

The denim in its slightly dull, under saturated charm

it's a nice shade of blue, very easy to wear as it doesn't stand out too much it's not too dark and not too vibrant.

Back yoke construction featuring a massive "stagger"

macro of the two different colors on horizontal and vertical stiching

here's the tcb back yoke, very slight stagger

leather patch will fade very quickly I think.

Back pocket typical constructions with the "corners" made by the fact the fabric it's turned under the stitching machine, my english sucks here but I think you all get what I mean, hopefully.

macro

Tcb 20s corners are a bit more clean and subtle

warehouse cornering

and that's a snippet posted by LB maker on how the stitching is made

Solide buckle

what I can say? these are GREAT jeans. Massive value for the money, and I like the fit more than the other 20s cuts.

That's it for now.

Edited February 16, 2020 by volvo240thebest

[Broark]

Glad that they went to someone who really appreciates them, I'm planning to get my replacement pair soon. 
I know that @aho just got a pair too!

[aho]

Lovely writeup @volvo240thebest! Agreed I’m really enjoying my pair and they seem to be super fast faders. Will not be washing as frequently as a result.

 

Owe you some fit pics and owe @Broark post wash measurements! In ordered them with a custom 8 inch leg opening so they fit nicely down the leg but perhaps some slight hip flare due to the 38 inch waist. Detail and construction wise I love them for the price, esp. given the direct made to order ability. The denim will fade nicely I think

[JDelage]

Anyone familiar with Graphzero?

https://www.instagram.com/graphzero_heartmadebase/

[andrewrose]

On 2/19/2020 at 3:53 AM, JDelage said:

Anyone familiar with Graphzero?

https://www.instagram.com/graphzero_heartmadebase/

I see Denimio is now carrying them. No knowledge myself. Items look fine I suppose, but I’ve only clicked through on one or two as navigating their website is an exercise in frustration. Looks like they have a lot of different products.

[Broark]

Soaked my Matin YM Factory chambray, very wrinkled but you get the idea.
I can see this getting a lot of wear in the summer with the sleeves rolled up.
Buttons are really nice, might be real pearl? Not sure.






 

[Double 0 Soul]

Rub them on your teeth, if they feel cold/gritty, they're real pearl, if your lips go numb they're coke.

[Broark]

Shirt just became a whole lot more valuable if the second part holds true...