Belts

[Duke Mantee]

… and in denim, although the belt isn’t sized for my copious waistline 

[Duke Mantee]

… naturally if you’re impressed beyond words you can get in touch and I’ll make you a custom job - whatever leather, colour combo, inlay material, buckle, stud/spot/conch pattern you like …

[bartlebyyphonics]

ain't nothing novelty about a studded belt...

very nice btw

[spidereye]

On 9/27/2021 at 5:29 PM, Mtvare said:

Actual waist measurements are a complicated business in themselves I think. My actual waist measurement at the narrowest point (which is your official 'waist' measurement I believe) is 34". That's where my TCB 40s ought to sit. But my waist an inch and a half lower down is 35" - that's where my IH 634s ought to sit.

That's why I find it useful to know what others are doing who are wearing the same jeans as me - you can bypass that kind of complication. Knowing that someone is consistently a size 34 in a brand that you own (assuming that brand's sizing is reasonably consistent) is more useful than knowing their (supposed) waist measurement. If it works for them it'll probably work for me, even if the way everything fits together is slightly different on them than on me.

That's not exactly to repudiate anything that you've suggested @Duke Mantee, just to explain how I find that 'rules of thumb' can actually be more reliable than measurements sometimes (not more reliable than measuring the actual pieces, granted).

Thanks for your help. (I wasn't aware of the sizing convention for belts.)

You might have to consider shilouete of.your jeans .. high rise mid rise..low rise it dose effect you belt prong placement

[Mtvare]

Yes exactly - that was my point.

[Flash]

Just got my new belt 

I love the natural unpainted edge to the leather and the stud work is amazing . Thanks mate @Duke Mantee 

Edited October 1, 2021 by Flash

[Duke Mantee]

@Flash - I think it’s thank YOU mate - a very patient test bed for me … not as demanding as others said about you, in fact I could even understand your accent … 

Wear it in good health

[JDelage]

On 9/28/2021 at 11:53 AM, Duke Mantee said:

Boy, she was adorable...

[Duke Mantee]

 

Snake Eyes

9oz Water Buffalo Leather

Cobra inlays

Standard Rivet vintage brass spots in 3mm and 4.5mm sizes

Standard Rivet vintage brass jewel rings in 9mm and 11mm sizes

Antique glass (1950s) jewels ~ 9mm in Siam and Topaz, 11mm in Amethyst

Japanese brass buckle with hand patination 

Japanese vintage coin (Karasu 1 Sen, 1938) 90% copper, 10% zinc

[Duke Mantee]

On denim (Freewheelers naturally) …

I always draw out the plan so there’s better understanding/visualisation 

[fre-co]

Those are super nice duke 

[Duke Mantee]

1 minute ago, fre-co said:

Those are super nice duke 

Thank you very much 

[Thanks_M8]

Master of western style belts @Duke Mantee. How long does it take to make one of those? Thinking of something similar with fancy stitchwork.

[Duke Mantee]

@Thanks_M8 I’m certainly no master but I enjoy pulling the designs together and turning them into real belts. I’ve not really thought about the time in hours, and I tend not to try and finish in a rush, but I guess I could complete one in a couple of days without interruption. It really would depend on complexity and the leathers.

Personally I’m less interested in stitching and/or embossing - stitching doesn’t bring me the same enjoyment, much as I appreciate the skill involved,  and embossing is an art form if done by hand and not simply passing a strap though a machine.

But I’d be very keen to see what you come up with. 

[Thanks_M8]

^Patience is key to great work. Everything I rushed turned out not satisfactory for my standards, but luckily was only for me
Will probably do something with scraps once I get the time, still have some vintage red goat, orange chrome tanned stuff and some crazy horse left over, maybe even a strap or two in something more interesting. I shall get thinking and drawing in my free time  

[Duke Mantee]

One thing I’ve found with studs/spots is the accurate placing is both straightforward and difficult  … the plans I make are very precise but leather isn’t a precise material.

I’ve never been one to focus on something being so perfect that it becomes soulless but at the same time I hate sloppy work, so I try to walk the line by accepting the odd small misalignment if the whole thing looks/feels right.

This vintage belt is fine but I’d be annoyed if I was this inaccurate …

Edited October 4, 2021 by Duke Mantee

[Thanks_M8]

Totally understand your point. To me function kind off comes first, then comes my ability to work with what I got. With the tools I got, placing rivets and studs precisely is kind off a pain, so sewing goes a long way for me and offer similiar strength imo. 
It's just kind off why I got started in the whole leather-thingy, wanted a wallet that would last, look better than what I got and be very functional, still got that functional approach to a lot of things. For example the last belt I made was made with left over straps from a few belts I made for friends and family. Got a shorter piece of veg-tan, had some leftover cognac-colored leather as well, only thing I wanted for sure was the buckle-combo I got vintage. Sewed the buckle in veg-tan and the veg-tan to the cognac-strap, looks great in the end, imo. 

Edited October 4, 2021 by Thanks_M8

[Robroy]

Great stuff Duke. You don’t have to be a westerner to appreciate how cool those western belts are. 
I’ve got a question for ya, how are you setting your spots? Do you have a machine? 
i picked up some spots and gems from standard to fool around with but I haven’t quite found a good method for setting them. 

[Duke Mantee]

11 hours ago, Robroy said:

Great stuff Duke. You don’t have to be a westerner to appreciate how cool those western belts are. 
I’ve got a question for ya, how are you setting your spots? Do you have a machine? 
i picked up some spots and gems from standard to fool around with but I haven’t quite found a good method for setting them. 

Thank you sir 

My machine is my left arm connected to a rawhide hammer and my right hand connected to a little fork like this …

it’s a flexible machine because it allows me to swap hands 

Edited October 11, 2021 by Duke Mantee

[Robroy]

@Duke Mantee are those punches for setting spots and studs? Those prongs look to be the correct width as the spots and studs prongs. 

[Duke Mantee]

That’s exactly what they are @Robroy - but you can also get 

or adjustable versions

 
or sometimes I use an awl or craftknife 

[dada mafiosi]

My new purchase of Tanner Goods Standard Belt, Natural color, size 34, stainless steel and Key Laynard, Natural color, stainless steel

Denim Work Shirt by Warehouse , model # 3076, 2 year old, multiple washes

Denim Pair, Fullcount 1108, 3 years old multiple washes 

Edited October 12, 2021 by dada mafiosi

[Duke Mantee]

Couple of nice buckles waiting for some leather 

[Flash]

Wow that native whirling log buckle is something special 

[Duke Mantee]

1 hour ago, Flash said:

Wow that native whirling log buckle is something special 

Maybe that’ll be a belt for me - perhaps with that vintage Japanese indigo cloth 

Edited October 25, 2021 by Duke Mantee

[JohnM]

Beautiful belts and buckles Duke.

Not sure why, but well made, interesting belts are not easy to find.

[Duke Mantee]

13 minutes ago, JohnM said:

Beautiful belts and buckles Duke.

Not sure why, but well made, interesting belts are not easy to find.

Thanks John, but they’re easier to find than you think

[Duke Mantee]

For @SLAB 

 

Bandi-bandi

9oz Veg Tan - natural, hand-painted and waxed face and edges

Cobra inlays - white/grey

Standard Rivet vintage nickel spots in 3mm and 4.5mm sizes

Standard Rivet vintage nickel jewel rings in 9mm and 11mm sizes

Antique glass (1950s) jewels ~ 9mm in White Opal, 11mm in Jet

Japanese vintage replica buckle 

Japanese vintage coin (Hou-ou 50 Sen c1922-1938 ) 72% silver, 28% copper

 

Second shot shows belt sitting on century old Japanese indigo cloth which is going to look stunning as an inlay on a belt …

Edited October 30, 2021 by Duke Mantee

[Flash]

Nailed it again mate 

[Duke Mantee]

10 minutes ago, Flash said:

Nailed it again mate 

Thanks mate - they’re all a bit different and it’s interesting dealing with different folk and what choices they make. Chris wanted natural veg tan, but he wanted me to paint it black so the colour might break down and show more than a leather that’s been struck through.