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THIS OR THAT? (Use me for all your Should I Buy...? questions)


tweeds

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I am with Hog, a higher rise is nice, keeps your ass from showing when you are at anything other than standing up.

So long as you fill in the whole top block the rise wont look to bad, my Ironhearts have a 9.8" rise while my Nudies have an ~9" rise and the almost inch difference just changes where the waistband sits.  if you arent tucking in your shirt it doesnt change much at all, when you tuck your shirts in it can start to make a difference but even then I wouldnt say that it is drastic but that boils down to being my opinion.

Edited by FLDenim211
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I'll be honest I'm a bit lazy. Anyone got a quick simple answer to Iron Heart vs. The Flat Head Denim?? I am looking into getting my first pair of heavy denim. I work out quite a bit so i have some beefy thighs, but prefer slight tapering from the knee down.

Thanks!

-Edwin

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I've been looking to cop a pair from the Osaka 5. Lately I've been wearing Steel Feathers and LVC 47's, and I'm thinking of trying out little fuller cut. Fullcount 0105XX or Studio D'Artisan SD-101 is what I'm debating myself over at the moment. Some pros and cons of the two(or suggestions of a different pair) is most welcome.

Edit: A 47-cut wouldn't hurt either.

Edited by Bobbo
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Looking for a mid-low rise "modern" straight leg, in a year round weight, and im thinking about doing TFH 3009s in 34 or PBJ xx-003s in 33 one-wash. are the fits similar? they seem like it from the measurements. considering the nearly $100 price difference, any reason why i might choose one over the other? thanks.

Edited by jmfr
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Looking for a mid-low rise "modern" straight leg, in a year round weight, and im thinking about doing TFH 3009s in 34 or PBJ xx-003s in 33 one-wash. are the fits similar? they seem like it from the measurements. considering the nearly $100 price difference, any reason why i might choose one over the other? thanks.

 

Kiya and the blue in green guy Gordon are probably going to smack me but the 003 and the 3009 aren't that far apart in terms of cost. It comes down to your fabric preference - streaky, vertical fades (TFH) vs. slubby, grainy fades (PBJ)? 

 

Assuming ONI is close enough to PBJ, I can say from experience that the PBJ will show wear "faster". I still like Flat Head's fabric better because it has a smooth & slightly, stretchy feel. 

 

This is just my opinion. Japanese denim experts pls don't neg. 

Edited by rosarkar
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its not really a big deal, but the 3009 is $360 and PBJ is $275 from SE and BIG respectively. dont feel like buying internationally, thats just me personally though.

 

edit- after browsing the evo thread, i dont really love the slubiness of the pbj. 

 

anything else i should consider versus the 3009?

Edited by jmfr
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I've been looking to cop a pair from the Osaka 5. Lately I've been wearing Steel Feathers and LVC 47's, and I'm thinking of trying out little fuller cut. Fullcount 0105XX or Studio D'Artisan SD-101 is what I'm debating myself over at the moment. Some pros and cons of the two(or suggestions of a different pair) is most welcome.

Edit: A 47-cut wouldn't hurt either.

 

 

You've picked two great brands, so either would be great. I'd take the SDA's because I find that the distance between the back pockets on the Full Counts can be somewhat unflattering sometimes, but that's up to you. Denim-wise both are top-notch. 

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its not really a big deal, but the 3009 is $360 and PBJ is $275 from SE and BIG respectively. dont feel like buying internationally, thats just me personally though.

 

edit- after browsing the evo thread, i dont really love the slubiness of the pbj. 

 

anything else i should consider versus the 3009?

 

rjb 105bsp? idk. flat head sister brand but zimbabwe cotton and ages just as well. back pocket lining is a plus. 

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For my first-ever pair of raw denims:

 

a ) Naked & Famous SkinnyGuy 15oz Deep Indigo Selvedge

b ) Naked & Famous SkinnyGuy 19oz Elephant 3 Deep Indigo Selvedge 

c ) 3Sixteen ST-211 13.5oz Slim Tapered Overdyed Black Non-Selvedge

d ) Ande Whall Mustang 13.5oz Super Dark Indigo Selvedge

 

I know all three pairs are at different price points..so I mean to ask should I be more conservative because I'm new to the whole raw denim game?  Really feeling those Ande Whalls, but with $35 shipping and no returns, I really do not want to risk messing up the sizing (though I know my measurements, things shrink, and fits are subjective)..

 

P.S. I live in Houston where it's crazy hot and humid basically all year-round.

Edited by eXtremity03
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I'd stay away from those elephant 3s for your first pair. Especially in that heat. Those are incredibly stiff, heavy and don't breathe at all. Also the skinny guy fit is quite a bit different from the ST and mustang fit. They more closely resemble a sized down weird guy from naked and famous. If you want the mustangs just send ande an email with what you want and he'll help you size properly. If you'd like some N&F the deep indigos are decent but I'd go with the left hand twill instead. Slightly lower weight. Softer when broken in and LHT always seems to fade well. But overall, the ande whalls are the best of what you're looking at

Edited by B-Sandy
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Hey, thanks for all the tips.  I definitely want to get a pair of Ande Whalls, and I'm sure the price point is very justifiable for the quality of those jeans, but because I'm just starting to get into raw denim, I guess I want a 'trial pair'..?  I'll be completely honest and admit that I am a perfectionist at heart with unheard of levels of OCD-ness, haha.  

 

Even though I know my measurements, and the type of fit I'm going for, I lack experience with handling a pair of raw denim, so inevitably, I'm doomed to thinking that my first experience will be a royal mess-up.  Therefore I want a '(less than) decent pair' so I can learn from my first experience? Not sure if you guys understand what I'm getting at, haha.

 

I managed to find a great deal on a pair of N&F Indigo Selvedge from Nordstrom for less than $80 USD! I've tried on the Skinny Guy, and this pair is a Weird Guy.  I'll see how those fit when they arrive in the coming week.  Great thing is, if I don't like them or the fit, Nordstrom's return policy is amazing.

 

Definitely looking forward to making a purchase of Ande Whall in the near future though!

 

P.S. Anyone know how the fades are between a regular indigo and a deep indigo, in a very general sense?  Or in the case of N&F? I'd think a deeper indigo has higher contrast fades.

Edited by eXtremity03
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Ensure you have the right size and order the Ande Whalls.

 

The only thing that's really holding me back from doing that is the fact that these jean brands are not made-to-measure, but rather have a certain predefined shape and sizing.  Due to my waist size/bone structure, I'm typically the smallest size available (28, I'd probably fit a 27 if the brand made that size).  So it really just has to fit, otherwise alterations must be done to the garment.  Just today I went to The Class Room in Houston--they carry some raw denim brands--and tried on a Rogue Territory Stanton and the shape of the jean just didn't flatter my body at all, though the measurements are within the right ballpark -- this is what I'm afraid of.  But I will definitely send Ande an email and maybe he can set me in the right direction.

 

The regular indigo jeans don't fade very well, and the only pairs I've seen that show much of anything were worn hard for a couple years. 

Damn, haha.  Maybe that's why they were on sale..nobody wants a pair!  Maybe I'll just pick up a pair of regular priced LHT or deep indigo from N&F to start myself off, until I am comfortable with raw denim and move onto potentially ordering a pair of Ande Whall, or another higher-end brand.

Edited by eXtremity03
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The only thing that's really holding me back from doing that is the fact that these jean brands are not made-to-measure, but rather have a certain predefined shape and sizing.  Due to my waist size/bone structure, I'm typically the smallest size available (28, I'd probably fit a 27 if the brand made that size).  So it really just has to fit, otherwise alterations must be done to the garment.  Just today I went to The Class Room in Houston--they carry some raw denim brands--and tried on a Rogue Territory Stanton and the shape of the jean just didn't flatter my body at all, though the measurements are within the right ballpark -- this is what I'm afraid of.  But I will definitely send Ande an email and maybe he can set me in the right direction.

 

Damn, haha.  Maybe that's why they were on sale..nobody wants a pair!  Maybe I'll just pick up a pair of regular priced LHT or deep indigo from N&F to start myself off, until I am comfortable with raw denim and move onto potentially ordering a pair of Ande Whall, or another higher-end brand.

 

Since you're a self described perfectionist, I would strongly suggest against the whole "trial pair" idea.  You already are into the idea of raw denim, and you've started doing the research that you need to to find a pair of jeans that fits your platonic ideal of perfect. You aren't going to learn anything, or achieve anything by messing around with a pair of jeans that you know out of the gates is less desirable.  One of raddest things about wearing only one pair of jeans for months or even years at a time is that it really validates taking the time (and spending the money) to get exactly the pair you want, so that you can just "set it, and forget it".  You don't sound to me like someone that is going to dip your toes in the water, and then decide raw isn't for you.  You sound like someone who will get two weeks into your "trial pair" and realize there is something you like a lot more out there, that you won't be able to stop thinking about until you get it.  You can save yourself a lot of money by stretching your budget on the front end to buy once instead of multiple times.

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I agree completely with Tyler.  I came really close to buying a pair of APC's a few times before I really knew anything about raw denim... but I eventually pulled the trigger on a pair of Iron Hearts as my first real denim and I know that if I had caved with the APC's I would've been really annoyed that I didn't go for the one I really wanted soon after.

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Since you're a self described perfectionist, I would strongly suggest against the whole "trial pair" idea.  You already are into the idea of raw denim, and you've started doing the research that you need to to find a pair of jeans that fits your platonic ideal of perfect. You aren't going to learn anything, or achieve anything by messing around with a pair of jeans that you know out of the gates is less desirable.  One of raddest things about wearing only one pair of jeans for months or even years at a time is that it really validates taking the time (and spending the money) to get exactly the pair you want, so that you can just "set it, and forget it".  You don't sound to me like someone that is going to dip your toes in the water, and then decide raw isn't for you.  You sound like someone who will get two weeks into your "trial pair" and realize there is something you like a lot more out there, that you won't be able to stop thinking about until you get it.  You can save yourself a lot of money by stretching your budget on the front end to buy once instead of multiple times.

 

Wow, damn.  I must say, I completely missed that extreme in my thought process.  I guess there are two extremities to it, huh? Haha.  This is very sound, logical thinking man.  I love how forums open new perspectives, thanks man.  Yeah, I can definitely see myself experiencing buyer's-remorse after seeing what raw denim has to offer with a less-desired pair.  I'm sure I would love that first pair, but I'd be hitting myself for not going for the one I truly wanted.

 

Well, I've been convinced.  I'm going to email Ande and get the ball rolling on a pair of Ande Whalls  :).

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yea dude you see i posted earlier on this page about the flat head 3009s... well i got my first pair of raw selvedge in june, and those are the pair i really wanted but i thought spending $300+ on jeans was not a good idea for my pair. so i got something else, and as much as i like what i have, i cant get the 3009s off my head and im gonna buy them tomorrow. so yea see how well that worked out for me lol

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Hey all, I love naked and famous skinny guy denim however i'm looking for a pair of jeans that have black warp and black weft and I've stumbled upon 2 options that are in a skinny fit. Option 1 is 3sixteen's 10th year anniverssary edition (ST- TH1) and option 2 is APC's petit standard in black denim. Both are in similar price point but I'm just not too sure which ones to get. Does anybody have any advice as to which ones to get and what size I'd be looking for? A little about me, I'm 5'11" and 160lbs and I'm currently wearing a size 29 in N&F dirty fade. Thanks.

 

PS: if there are any other options for black jeans, I'd be open to suggestions! Thanks again.

Edited by cv_azn
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Hey all, I love naked and famous skinny guy denim however i'm looking for a pair of jeans that have black warp and black weft and I've stumbled upon 2 options that are in a skinny fit. Option 1 is 3sixteen's 10th year anniverssary edition (ST- TH1) and option 2 is APC's petit standard in black denim. Both are in similar price point but I'm just not too sure which ones to get. Does anybody have any advice as to which ones to get and what size I'd be looking for? A little about me, I'm 5'11" and 160lbs and I'm currently wearing a size 29 in N&F dirty fade. Thanks.

 

PS: if there are any other options for black jeans, I'd be open to suggestions! Thanks again.

 

Though I am certainly not unbiased in this regard, the ST-220x whether standard or the Thomas Hooper edition murders the APCs in every regard.  It's a custom loomed Japanese fabric, produced in one of the best jeans factories in the United States with great hardware and details.  It'd be hard to touch that jean in any price range.

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In the end, I've held off on emailing Ande Whall because I don't want to hit him up when I'm still in the midst of deciding between different brands, lol.  I'd feel guilt if I ended up not following through with an order.  Anyway, I've compiled a new list I'm deciding between, and I need opinions regarding the construction/quality/detail of each:

 

1) Ande Whall 13.5oz Super Dark Indigo

2) Railcar Spikes X005 12oz Indigo(?)

3) 3Sixteen 120X Shadow Selvedge (heard this one fades amazingly!) / 3Sixteen 100X Indigo

4) Rogue Territory Stanton 14.5 oz  (I realized they make sizes as small as 26, and the measurements seem fitting)

 

In my eyes, this picture of Nick U. from the N&F Indigo/Indigo Selvedge Jean fading contest epitomizes my ideal of a perfect fitting pair of jeans.

 

Nick_greatfit-225x337.jpg

 

I'm on a quest for something that fits like this!

 

For a frame of reference..I've included my measurements on a pair of Buffalo David Bitton Max Style (Super Skinny) Jeans that are non-raw.  I'd prefer something very similar in sizing, but ever so SLIGHTLY looser.  I'm thinking probably a 10.25" thigh with maybe a 7.5" to 7.75" knee would be ideal.  I like the 6.75" leg opening as it fits perfectly over any pair of dress shoes, showing the details of the shoe (monk straps/buckles/penny, etc).

 

Waist = 30"

Front Rise = 8"

Back Rise = 13"

Thigh = 10"

Knee = 7.25"

Leg Opening = 6.75"

Inseam = 28.5"

 

Quality, construction, and details are high on my list for a pair of raw denim jeans, but I think in the end, fit is most important.

 

Open to any suggestions, and I'm sorry if this post seems a bit ignorant, I've been researching the whole raw denim; brands, sizing, fits, quality for three weeks straight (I'm sleep deprived with zombie/panda eye bags even at work lol--guess I'm starting to burn out from the overzealous first-pair-of-raw-denim craze phase, hah.

Edited by eXtremity03
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It seems like all of those fits would probably be close enough to what you're looking for that you would be happy with them...one of the nice things about raw denim is that as long as you size them right, and get the jeans hemmed to a length that is suitable for you, jeans will stretch a little where you need them to and shape to your body in a way that makes a pair fit you just right, even if the measurements themselves don't read like exactly what you've set out for.  As long as you're looking at fits in the right ballpark, you should be happy with the fit of any of the four jeans you mentioned.  

 

If you think you'd like to try something that is a non-standard blue jean, the Shadow Selvedge from 3sixteen is pretty great, and you're right, it fades amazingly.  For me personally, the fact that it's the only jean in the bunch that is made with an exclusive fabric that was custom loomed to spec for the company making the jean, makes a world of difference.  I also appreciate the subtle detailing, and very clean production.  

 

There are cool things about all the other jeans as well...there is definitely something special about having a jean that is from a one man operation a la Ande Whall.  I've seen a couple worn pairs of Rogue Territories lately that have given me nothing but respect for the denim that they are using.  I've seen and handled less Railcar than the others, but I can't seem to open a page on superfuture without reading about people that are happy with their Railcars, and I've only ever heard that they are awesome people to deal with...this can be extra important when ordering online/over the phone.  

 

I think you've done a good job of narrowing down the selection and I'm glad that you're doing a little more swinging for the fences on your first pair.  My guess is that if you grab any of the four jeans above, you'll feel like you made the absolutely right decision, and you'll love everything about them, and they'll be a great experience.  You'll eventually buy other jeans, but it will be because you've worn these to a point where they are no longer dark and you want to start on another project.  Then maybe you'll revisit the three brands you pass on this time, or you'll be on to trying to figure out what you like most between Flat Head, Strike Gold, Pure Blue Japan, and Samurai.

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