SUPERDENIM SMALL QUESTIONS THREAD (Use instead of making new threads)

[Gram]

ordered from japan? don't deal with the length, just send to BIG and spend the $30 on hemming. ordered from BIG=free alterations.

i ordered from BiG, i can just send it back for them to hem it?

[morse9443]

^^yes unlimited free hemmings if purchased from them.

[savage_here]

OK, so I've been a lurker here forever and finally have all the info I "think" I need to get some opinions on my next denim purchase. I hesitated to post this in small questions because of the length of this post, but ultimately decided that's where it should go. I'll give you my stats first and the measurements on the jeans I currently have/wear, then let you know what I'm looking for.

5'11"

165

Pretty thin. My only real fat or bulge would be right at the belly button (I'm older than most of you...you'll see what I mean later, trust me). I do have a butt. My thighs are thin and 22" near my crotch and 20 in-between crotch and knee. My calves are also small at 15"

My actual inseam, measured from crotch to floor (barefoot) is 33"

I'm not sure where you measure actual waist, but right below my belly button "pooch", I measure right at 33 3/4"

The widest point I can find around my hips measures at about 38"

All these jeans were measured flat and these are the outside measurements. I'm going to show the measurements like this:

a. waist

b. leg measured right at crotch seam

c. knee (where my knee actually is in most cases)

d. leg opening at bottom

e. inseam

f. front rise

g. back rise

1. Probably my go-to jean and worn the most. RRL "bootcut" jean from about 4 years ago. This is the one that had the VERY screwy waist sizing (for example, this one was marked 29!). These are sanforized and I believe were one-wash, selvedge.

a. 17 1/2

b. 12

c. 8 3/4

d. 8 1/2

e. 35

f. 10 1/2

g. 14

These fit well, but the waist is too big where the sit and I have to wear a belt. The rise is probably the best of the lot and I really like the "hairy" denim. They have started to fade a bit, but not as much as desired.

2. My second favorite pair is a wash by Paper Denim & Cloth. These have been tailored some and I don't really know what the model was to start with.

a. 17 1/4

b. 12

c. 9

d. 8 1/2

e. 34

f. 11

g. 15 3/4

As stated, these are a wash, so they're not fading, etc. They have been tailored to fit, but again, are a bit relaxed throughout. I'm not a big fan of the wash as the honeycombs don't really match up to my legs right. But, I wear them anyway b/c they're comfy and made pretty well.

3. Next is a pair of Edwin. Not sure if they started as raw or one-wash, but they're selvedge as well. They were fairly rigid, but could never tell. They are marked as 500SXX, but the second 0 looks like it used to be a 3 and was marked or branded over. Not sure the story there, but I digress.

a. 16 3/4

b. 12 1/2

c. 9 1/4

d. 8 1/2

e. 34 1/2

f. 11 3/4

g. 15

The rise is too high on these and they're too long. They fit pretty well otherwise, but are a bit relaxed all around. Because of the leg opening, they don't stack at all and end up underfoot. Don't get much wear and haven't even the slightest hint of fading/honeycombing, etc. I do really, really like the denim though.

4. Next is a pair of Helmut Lang wash. They're really dark, maybe a black wash, not sure. They say raw and dry on the inside tag, but I'm sure they're not as they had fading in the thighs, pre-wear. Anyhoo...

a. 17

b. 11 1/2

c. 8

d. 7 1/4

e. 35 3/4

f. 10

g. 15

These had an enormous waist when I bought them, but fit everywhere else. I had the waist tailored, but the yolk is a little funky now, so I don't wear these that often unless I'm wearing a shirt or sweater that will cover the yolk.

Otherwise the fit is good, but maybe just the tiniest bit too skinny for me in the thigh and lower leg. Stacks good though. Rise, not bad. Denim is pretty bad though.

5. Last is a pair of new/unworn RRL, tagged RRL Icon, straight leg. These are from last season and are the ones tagged $225 and with the inside tag that says "rinse".

a. 16 3/4

b. 12

c. 9

d. 9

e. 34 1/2

f. 12

g. 15 1/2

These feel pretty big all around and too relaxed. I'm sure that when worn, they'll stretch out too much and be baggy. So, probably won't wear and will resell.

-----

So, that's what I have, but frankly I'm not thrilled with any of them. See individual comments above.

I live in Texas and since it's hot as hell here basically March through October, I don't get to wear my jeans enough to do serious fades. That said, I'm looking for something that has excellent denim, but is not a bitch to fade (i.e. so, wouldn't be interested in, say, KMW). I don't think I'm a good candidate for super heavyweight denim either since even when it's cool here, it's not that cool.

I want a raw jean and selvedge would be preferred, but not a deal-breaker. I can't take really low rise (also don't want low-slung where there's baggy ass) and definitely don't want skinny. Just something moderately slim, medium rise, super-nice denim, fades relatively easily. I don't like low or super-long rear pockets at all. Also don't like the "fit" where they look like you have no ass (not sure what that's called). Not a huge fan of pocket stitching, so if they have some I need to know that it can be removed without it being noticeable. Button fly of course, no zippers. I don't usually cuff although I have with both the RRL's and Edwin's. Not a fan of the look though, so would rather have slight stacking or just correct length.

I'm willing to endure 2 weeks or so of snugness/tightness, but am not willing to have them be ball-crushing tight for any period of time.

I'm willing to go about $250 for these as I want to basically replace virtually everything currently in the lineup.

If anyone has suggestions, I'd like not only the brand and model, but also what sizing (both waist and inseam) you suggest in that model.

I'm sure even with all this info I've left something out. I apologize for the long read (kudos to those that made it all the way through), but really wanted all the info in there so that I can get some targeted advice and suggestions.

Thanks in advance.

[sooojoooo]

Can anybody help me with acne sizing. I'm a 27 in dior mij 19cm, a 28 in a77, a 26 in apc new cure. what size would I be in a hex cash? 28?

[chantheman]

savage here - would you like a slight taper cut jean? if so i would say warehouse 660s might work for you

[ssheat]

savage_here: You might like the eternal 811. They'll give you the semi-slim fit you want, and they suit all your other preferences. The denim is great and they fade quickly, and also have the "hairy" feel that you said you liked. They'll also fall into your price bracket. They're available at blue in green.

Can anybody help me with acne sizing. I'm a 27 in dior mij 19cm, a 28 in a77, a 26 in apc new cure. what size would I be in a hex cash? 28?

It depends on how you sized. If it is a 28, then get a 28 and go true to size with the hex.

[Spastic_Koala]

Can I expect PBJ XX-007 to stretch an inch or so in the waist?

[gonegonegone]

Can I expect PBJ XX-007 to stretch an inch or so in the waist?

they will stretch at least 1.5".

[coleslawyum]

savage here - would you like a slight taper cut jean? if so i would say warehouse 660s might work for you

Yeah definitely Warehouse 660. They are not too hard top fade and are pretty lightweight. Although not as hairy as the Eternals, which are really hard to fade,( but look gorgeous when put in the effort) the WH660 is really worth the money.

Here's the Link.BiG can hem to whatever length.

[Episode3]

Hey sufu guys, idk how stupid this is going to sound, but as you can tell I only recently started coming on this forum, so....

wtf does 10char mean? lol

[Opie]

Each message has to be 10 characters long, so if i want to call someone "cunt" fx. Then the message would be:

"cunt! 10 chars"

just to fill out the rest without looking like an adolescent douchbag.

[morse9443]

What's the difference between seersucker and hickory?

[mpcec]

In Eternal 811 BIG I'm a 32, would I be a 32 in O/W Sugarcane Okinawa's?

[coleslawyum]

What's the difference between seersucker and hickory?

I believe seersucker is a weaving process that pulls the fabric away from the skin, therefore popular among summer suits. It can have a check or stripe pattern.

Hickory stripe just means an alternating woven blue and white stripes. Although I wonder is this only means blue and white.

Anyway, that's from the top of my head, so if anyone can add something, by all means.

[fffffut]

is hemming reversible? i'm kind of unfamiliar with the process of it, and i want to know if the leg is just folded up and sewn or if its actually cut

thanks

[beatle]

In Eternal 811 BIG I'm a 32, would I be a 32 in O/W Sugarcane Okinawa's?

no..more like a 31 or even a 30

[beatle]

hemming....cut off...

[mpcec]

Appreciate the response Beatle, I emailed Kiya and he said the exact same thing...

[fffffut]

hemming....cut off...

thanks

10ch

[TN_]

searching shows jeans similar to dior 19cm are:

wings+horns slim fit

apc new cure

what others am i missing

[ThatsMyName]

speaking of hickory stripe- does anyone in nyc know where I can find hickory stripe fabric and also where I can find thick canvas duck cloth by the yard?

[drillserg]

looking for something similar to dior dust wash in cut and wash suggestions appreciated

[Episode3]

What do you guys wash your samurai's with?

I just got my 710's in the mail, gonna prepare for upcoming washes

Thanks,

.willw

[Barnaby]

Im looking to get theses jeans:

http://www.contextclothing.com/item.php?id=730

i want a fit similar to my apc NC. i wear a size 29 and they are the most amazing fitting jeans i have ever owned after stretching, of course.

what size somets should i get?

[thephantom]

Dear Episode3,

1st hot soak in water.

Further washes to both my 710s, black and indigo, and 0500XX using mild non-bleach detergent.

Some people recommend organic detergent.

Bu imho, mild non-bleach detergent is good enough.

- ThePhantom

[thephantom]

In Eternal 811 BIG I'm a 32, would I be a 32 in O/W Sugarcane Okinawa's?

Hi mpcec,

Eternal 811 is a bit on the slimmer side, so I would size down 1 on SC Okinawas.

ThePhantom

[thephantom]

savage_here,

I would recommend Eternal 811, which is moderately slim, very nice and dark denim. The weight is around 14.5 oz, which is not superheavy. It would fit in your budget. I would say, you would need size 33 or 34, depending on how slim you want to go.

I have been wearing 811 since last couple of years. Very impressed with it.

BlueInGreen has it for pre-order. Talk to Gordon, he is very helpful.

Here's the link:

http://blueingreensoho.com/site/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=3044&category_id=&manufacturer_id=38&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=28

ThePhantom

[GoodSamaritan]

I heard from a few people that your true waist is the same thing as yours hips -2 inches. My true waist is not accurate at all because im very skinny there. What they said seems pretty accurate to me but can anyone confirm this?

[DaTruth1]

How much do thighs stretch in NS? I went true to size in my Nudie AJ and the thigh fits nicely ( I have pretty big thighs... around 24", and also a big ass), should I size down 1 or 2 for NS? Will sizing down 2 be too tight on my thighs and butt?

[laughter95]

Could someone recommend some fashionable slim, tapered, BLACK jeans? Not going for a repro look.

I'm aware of the Dior MIJ, Sam 710 BK. Dior's are perfect but they are $400? and Sam's aren't so fashionable/too heavy. I really like the PBJ 007's but they don't come in black. Can anyone suggest some alternatives??