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Self Edge, SF/NY/LA/PDX - updates & info

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Hi Kiya, will the strike gold hoodies come in XL too? Thanks!

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sexih13 denim sounds similar to the recent XHS series (25oz, sanforized) ih denim, but I know it's different, can't wait

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How i would imagine the new IH denim (23 oz, sanforized) is going to be:

I think it will have the initial pliability (is that a word?) of the standard 634S denim, which we all know and love, which is sanforized; but in a heavier weight. I would assume that the denim will be that. Sanforization really doesn't mean that a jean is "less good" than an un-sanforized pair of denim, it just means that the rigidity that is often found in a pair of un-san jeans often causes creases that lead to repairs earlier off in a jeans lifecycle. think of how many times you have seen repairs on the FH 3001/F310 as opposed to the 634S within the first few months. You know both denim to be amazing from two great companies, but neither is necessarily better, they are just targeting different markets and hence do not lend themselves to a discussion of superior/inferior. And on the post about the difference between the SR denim and this new denim, the SR gained weight through laundering, taking a 21 oz un-san loomstate into a 23 oz, post launder, tighter weave. because the weave tightens due to washing/soaking, it has more material, thus bumping it up. if the denim is sanforized it would be woven in order for the weave to not need to tighten after washing/soaking. I hope this makes sense to you all...

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I have never replied to this many posts at once...

Kiya,

Why are sanforized jeans more durable/longer lasting than unsanforized ones?

The process of sanforization puts cotton through a process which makes it more pliable and more resistant to wear and tear. The fabric will stretch before it snaps and breaks, it will also become far more pliable faster than an unsanforized or loomstate fabric.

how is the fabric different from the 634 21/23 ? besides already being sanforized

The indigo dye lot for the warp thread is darker and the oxidation period was longer resulting in a darker and deeper indigo shade. Not to mention the fact that it's sanforized meaning it'll be more comfortable right off the bat. I'm not a huge fan of unsanforized fabric over 20oz or so, it just becomes unwearable at a certain point and leads to pre-mature wear of the warp yarns. Granted you'll get some great fades but at the end of the day your pricey jeans won't last long.

Yeah I thought you preferred unsanforized to sanforized Kiya?

I do normally, but the intention of the SEXIH13 jean is a heavy weight jean that ages well, is super heavy, and lasts a very long time. we tried our best to find that perfect balance between the three. it's harder than you think to do that when you have the ability to make a denim as heavy as you want in whatever color you'd like.

Is the IH collab jean a straight leg cut or a slim cut?

Medium/Low rise, fitted up top, straight down with no taper.

Hi Kiya, will the strike gold hoodies come in XL too? Thanks!

Nope, they strictly do Small, medium, and large.

Forgot to ask, expect 0.3" shrinkage in all other areas of SE05BSP?

Yup, .3" is what you should expect with a medium temp soak.

sexih13 denim sounds similar to the recent XHS series (25oz, sanforized) ih denim, but I know it's different, can't wait

very different, not much in common, the new denim will be softer and darker.

How i would imagine the new IH denim (23 oz, sanforized) is going to be:

I think it will have the initial pliability (is that a word?) of the standard 634S denim, which we all know and love, which is sanforized; but in a heavier weight. I would assume that the denim will be that. Sanforization really doesn't mean that a jean is "less good" than an un-sanforized pair of denim, it just means that the rigidity that is often found in a pair of un-san jeans often causes creases that lead to repairs earlier off in a jeans lifecycle. think of how many times you have seen repairs on the FH 3001/F310 as opposed to the 634S within the first few months. You know both denim to be amazing from two great companies, but neither is necessarily better, they are just targeting different markets and hence do not lend themselves to a discussion of superior/inferior. And on the post about the difference between the SR denim and this new denim, the SR gained weight through laundering, taking a 21 oz un-san loomstate into a 23 oz, post launder, tighter weave. because the weave tightens due to washing/soaking, it has more material, thus bumping it up. if the denim is sanforized it would be woven in order for the weave to not need to tighten after washing/soaking. I hope this makes sense to you all...

most of this is a true story.

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So in other words, sanforized jeans may not age as quickly/dramatically but ultimately last longer, while unsanforized wear faster but are less durable. Didn't know that. Kiya, it might be helpful for potential customers if you made some sort of index or denim guide for the SE site - some of the things you talk about (like this) I haven't seen written anywhere else.

I guess lifestyle should be taken into account too - for example I don't mountain climb, ride bicycles, or participate in extreme yoyo-ing in my jeans, so unsanforized works great for me. For the motorcycle crash artist, something like Iron Heart is logically a better choice.

I guess if you wanted to design a really, really tough pair of jeans, you'd make them with sanforized denim, poly core stitching (or something more durable, if it exists) kevlar pocket bags, and mythril rivets and buttons.

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So in other words, sanforized jeans may not age as quickly/dramatically but ultimately last longer, while unsanforized wear faster but are less durable. Didn't know that. Kiya, it might be helpful for potential customers if you made some sort of index or denim guide for the SE site - some of the things you talk about (like this) I haven't seen written anywhere else.

I guess lifestyle should be taken into account too - for example I don't mountain climb, ride bicycles, or participate in extreme yoyo-ing in my jeans, so unsanforized works great for me. For the motorcycle crash artist, something like Iron Heart is logically a better choice.

I guess if you wanted to design a really, really tough pair of jeans, you'd make them with sanforized denim, poly core stitching (or something more durable, if it exists) kevlar pocket bags, and mythril rivets and buttons.

you can find damn near anything and everything Kiya has said by reading through threads of the different brands that you are more fond of on here, and also this link: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/index.php?/topic/12676-superdenim-encyclopedia-read-me-before-posting-a-new-thread/

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Whilst wrestling both a shark and a lion yes. It's in the official guideline.

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Posted · Hidden by Denton, January 14, 2012 - No reason given
Hidden by Denton, January 14, 2012 - No reason given

mythril rivets lulz

some of you guys are like the da vinci of nerdiness i swear

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Surely if you wash a pair of unsanforized jeans before wearing, they are no less durable than a sanforized pair?

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Surely if you wash a pair of unsanforized jeans before wearing, they are no less durable than a sanforized pair?

Nope, the process of sanforization makes the cotton fibers more pliable and less resistant to snapping therefore prolonging holes/crotch blow-outs, etc. You take the same cotton fibers, dye them the same way, and produce two runs of denim leaving one as is (unsanforized) and one run through a sanforizing machine and the sanforized one will surely last longer.

Edited by kiya

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If anyone else is interested in kiya's knowledge of all things denim.... descriptions of products.... or for that matter sizing chart.... LOOK NO FURTHER than the tate + yoko website.... 3 points for selfedge lol

Edited by llvlaglne

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Nope, the process of sanforization makes the cotton fibers more pliable and less resistant to snapping therefore prolonging holes/crotch blow-outs, etc. You take the same cotton fibers, dye them the same way, and produce two runs of denim leaving one as is (unsanforized) and one run through a sanforizing machine and the sanforized one will surely last longer.

I don't disbelieve you but I'd like to hear the science on that!

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Nope, the process of sanforization makes the cotton fibers more pliable and less resistant to snapping therefore prolonging holes/crotch blow-outs, etc. You take the same cotton fibers, dye them the same way, and produce two runs of denim leaving one as is (unsanforized) and one run through a sanforizing machine and the sanforized one will surely last longer.

contest idea right there

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contest idea right there

There's no way to test this with a contest, everybody's wear would be completely different throwing the results in multiple directions.

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@ajchen- next time i swing by the shop, i'm going to have to take a peak at the new kawatako card cases.

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I reckon we should kick it ol' school, do a SE05BSP contest. I'm down so PM me if anyone is interested... Maybe start around end of May. Give us some time to finish up on our little projects... ??

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i would jump in, i'm using my se05bsp for another contest but it starts around july/august.... would you mind starting around that time?

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something my friends and i are doing for fun. participants are given a leather bracelet, somewhat like a membership card lol. whomever has best contrast/wear and tear, wins a "championship belt" lol i'm going to definitely post on the ironheart forum, maybe here too.... we'll see.

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probably a pair of se05bsp.... camera... everyday wear... no sandpaper lol, just an idea but it seems like it's building an interest.

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Don't tempt me, guys. I'm trying to stick with my PBJs until 2012, then wear BSPs or something.

But since I can only wear my jeans for 4.5 days most weeks because of work, I'm not sure how impressive my BSPs would turn out in a contest, anyway.

Edited by Cold Summer

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if we do have a contest... place the PBJs on pause for the BSPs.... i know you'll kill it

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Kiya, do you know when the next production run will be for the 301s and 7301s?

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  • hello 2023 !

    supertalk is free to browse as a guest. You need to be a member to participate in discussions or buy and sell on the classifieds.

    New membership is $US 6 / year.

    You can also become a premium superseller or supermember. Businesses who want to promote their brand and products need to become a supersponsor. superfuture® is privately owned and has been online continuously for 24 years. supertalk has been online for 20 years and is a digital cockroach that will survive all current and future apocalypses.

    That said, in 2023 supertalk is also FOR SALE so if you want to become a member AND the NEW OWNER you are welcome to make us a serious offer !

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