Word of Mouth - The Crust & Fades Contest

[JohnM]

^ Julian -- Freewheelers (#881121).

 

[julian-wolf]

Oh very cool. Looking at it up close I feel silly for even having asked; I have the same model in two different fabrics. Didn’t realize they’d made a version in that plaid!

[nopal]

Post-wash measurements (35x31):

Waist / 82.0 cm / 32.28 inches  
Front rise / 30.0 cm / 11.81 inches  
Back rise / 39.0 cm / 15.35 inches  
Thigh / 32.0 cm / 12.60 inches  
Knee / 24.5 cm / 9.65 inches  
Hem / 23.0 cm / 9.06 inches  
Inseam / 74.0 cm / 29.13 inches 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

I have my doubts they are dry until tomorrow but then...there's enough time!

[UkeNo]

19 hours ago, UkeNo said:

🤮

Someone mentioned that it might be cheaper to fly to Rome to collect the jeans in person. I didn’t actually think that was true until I looked it up when having my coffee this morning. I live about 25mins from the airport…

There would even be change for a coffee. 
I’m doing local pick up next time 😁

[Dr_Heech]

@UkeNo if it makes you feel any better, this happened with my last (and possibly final) denim purchases from japan last year. I asked for the insurance to be covering my purchases (£510) but didn't expect the tax to be so high. Ended up paying a whopping £178 extra in tax and duties. It still stings a bit when l think about it but l guess it's God's way of saying "enough denim!" 😂

[UkeNo]

2 minutes ago, Dr_Heech said:

@UkeNo if it makes you feel any better, this happened with my last (and possibly final) denim purchases from japan last year. I asked for the insurance to be covering my purchases (£510) but didn't expect the tax to be so high. Ended up paying a whopping £178 extra in tax and duties. It still stings a bit when l think about it but l guess it's God's way of saying "enough denim!" 😂

Ouch! I agree completely though. This is really my own doing. If I bought less and maybe thought a bit harder (about tax in this case) then I could save a fortune. But where’s the fun in that?! 
Did you at least love the item you bought? I hope so? I feel that if you end up really enjoying the item then the cost of it is at least somewhat softened over time. 

[ATWM]

That’s rough! We may (or may not, because who the hell knows) be paying those soon enough here in the U.S. 

I remember long ago when I lived in NZ for a time my mom sent me a care package of some items from home I had wished I packed, and did it all by the book. I had to pay some $300+ just to pick it up. I can’t remember what jacked up the fee so much, but it was well used whatever it was. 

[ATWM]

On 1/16/2025 at 3:26 PM, ATWM said:

Happily my pair landed, even much earlier in than the day than I'd have thought. Got a quick try on - I think these will be good. I'm too lazy for measurements - I tend to just try em on and if I feel I've sized well enough I just leave it alone and trust that whatever math I did upon ordering had some coherence to it.

I have some room in the waist, it will likely be a little snug up there post wash but I think will stretch back out nicely - I don't need it to stretch back out to raw.

The rest of the pants seem to have room to shrink all over, but nothing crazy. The length is the wildcard - room to cuff or not? Probably a little...

I'd agree on the TCB/Ooe spectrum - my pair seems quite nicely made, pocket bags seem about just right sized - stitching isn't Ooe level tidiness but with some snips I think it would be pretty close, and I also think that's not so much the intent anyways. Really pretty much just as I'd hoped for a raw 30's pair. Simone did a nice job and knowing it's going to a one man operation I think these are worth every penny. Shame I can't get into it until the weekend! 

Will get pics sometime this week but these shrunk up to a fit that I’m really quite happy with and think I’ll be pleased to have these as my primary pair for some time. I’ve got a bit more room through the leg than I’m used to (as was the hope), the waist shrunk to 73 cm and has already comfortably stretched to wherever it needs to be. Length is perfect, shrunk exactly the way we were advised - just enough for a little turn up. Great pattern, or maybe I’ve been missing 30’s models my whole life. 

[Dr_Heech]

2 hours ago, UkeNo said:

Ouch! I agree completely though. This is really my own doing. If I bought less and maybe thought a bit harder (about tax in this case) then I could save a fortune. But where’s the fun in that?! 
Did you at least love the item you bought? I hope so? I feel that if you end up really enjoying the item then the cost of it is at least somewhat softened over time. 

Yes l love both items regardless (freewheelers 1942 tux) and can talk about it now without further trauma. I like you should have probably thought abit more about the tax side of things but held it to chance. This sort of thing used to happen regularly back in the early 2000's especially when buying second hand heavy flight jackets for example. I think every third purchase got held at Parcelfarce's Gloucester depot with a whopping fee to pay before release. They've got you over a barrel in these circumstances so what's a guy to do?

Edited Sunday at 01:08 PM by Dr_Heech

[Alec Leamas]

Can anyone speak to the weight of the denim? Or the feel of the weight of it?

Looking back through the thread I believe the two fabrics we chose from were both ~12oz’s, I’m wondering how that feels in reality? Only ever had a “used wash” pair at that weight, I think.

[Jared_Lee]

WomCon and LeRoy ready for a soak in the suds.

 

[ATWM]

25 minutes ago, Alec Leamas said:

Can anyone speak to the weight of the denim? Or the feel of the weight of it?

Looking back through the thread I believe the two fabrics we chose from were both ~12oz’s, I’m wondering how that feels in reality? Only ever had a “used wash” pair at that weight, I think.

To my mind it’s pretty straightforward- probably 12 oz raw, ~14 oz washed. Not notably hairy or irregular in any way. A little crunchy but a bit soft at the same time, I think it will end up on the softer, drapier side of things, but it’s not that way after an initial soak + wash. Honestly, the closest comparison I probably have in my closet is in terms of raw and washed feel is Ooe. 

[Jared_Lee]

31 minutes ago, Alec Leamas said:

Can anyone speak to the weight of the denim? Or the feel of the weight of it?

This fabric definitely feels a little thinner between the fingers than your banner denims in upper 13oz to 14oz range. It's a bit smoother than maybe I had expected. Still has good texture, but a fairly even and consistent hand. No real hairiness raw, though some of the post wash/soak pics look like that opens up a bit with water. I always wash with softener so we'll see how they feel and look out of a wash and tumble in about an hour.

[Jared_Lee]

They shrank perfectly. -3" in the waist to a 32" waist. Leg opening came down to 8.5" from 9". There's a bit of a pattern issue in the seat shape and pockets as I've seen in others' photos as well as my fit, but nothing that ruins the fit. Just a little pattern issue that could be addressed going forward with WoM.

 

Edit: pocket bags are also ~1" too shallow for my liking. Again, small issue, but worth noting.

 

Edited Sunday at 03:45 PM by Jared_Lee

[ashgiovanni]

311 fit here. Finally got around to shrinking the denim. I went ahead with a hot machine wash x2 and air dry. Overall I’m happy with the fit, construction, and feel of the denim. I probably just went with too much length to begin with but still works out! 

[bartlebyyphonics]

15 hours ago, aho said:

Clocking 46.5cm (BiG style) after two hot washes, but I wear them loose and figure they'd stretch if someone was apt. Gotta say these may be my favorite fitting jeans in a long time though. Looks like I'm going size 40 on everything moving forward 😂

 

Missed it too but Happy 6-0 @CSL!!

nice: all within expectations … sounds like wmj 40 is approx to tcb 38! not sure i’d 40 everything but could see an ooe 40 as a good call…

plus happy belated birthday @CSL!!!

[bartlebyyphonics]

39 minutes ago, Jared_Lee said:

There's a bit of a pattern issue in the seat shape and pockets as I've seen in others' photos as well as my fit, but nothing that ruins the fit. Just a little pattern issue that could be addressed going forward with WoM

 

ass munchers?

[Alec Leamas]

Enjoying all the details! Thanks for the info @ATWM and @Jared_Lee on the fabric. 

My pair are sitting in my office waiting for me so looking forward to picking them up tomorrow!!

[Jared_Lee]

3 hours ago, bartlebyyphonics said:

ass munchers?

No, it's kind of the opposite. Something like where the bottom third of the pocket down to just below, the pattern doesn't remove enough fabric from the seat between the pocket and back rise seam if that makes sense. I am not a pattern maker, so the solution is above my paygrade. I just noticed it's a bit unflattering between the pockets and below on the seat for quite a few of us. Thankfully not hungry bum though. Well, I don't think I've seen bF's back shots yet...

[ATWM]

@Jared_Lee I think I can see what you mean, though it’s maybe less noticeable to me since I wanted a looser fit overall. I also never can really fill the backside too well as is, ha.
 

After wearing for just half a day the denim has settled down and stretched some to the point where I wonder if could have gone down a size and had a nice fit. Im glad I didn’t, given the room I was looking for - but I’m actually using the cinch already.
 

My impression - by waist alone since I don’t have a comparable cut, is that these actually some out slightly more generous than Ooe sizing - though I may not have gotten all the shrink out. I did a steaming hot soak with hand agitation followed by a warm wash and hang dry. 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Nearly dry. Did some trimming. Lost 3.5" both in waist and inseam after the wash. The rest shrunk nicely as well. Fit pics tomorrow 🤪 

[reallypeacedoff]

Fire side hangs before some pizza.

[aho]

22 hours ago, Jared_Lee said:

No, it's kind of the opposite. Something like where the bottom third of the pocket down to just below, the pattern doesn't remove enough fabric from the seat between the pocket and back rise seam if that makes sense. I am not a pattern maker, so the solution is above my paygrade. I just noticed it's a bit unflattering between the pockets and below on the seat for quite a few of us. Thankfully not hungry bum though. Well, I don't think I've seen bF's back shots yet...

Genuine question, isn't this just what we used to call "anti fit"? 

[Jared_Lee]

@aho, sort of, but different? The 0105 is decisively anti-fit, but doesn't pose this seat fit issue (TTS or +1 in my experience). I also notice the fit issue on these with a tight waist. The anti-fit would apply in my case as they're deliberately oversized, but to have that fit issue on tighter fits seems odd. Again, not trying to sew seeds of dissatisfaction here at all. I am mainly responding to bF's request for impressions of the jeans as the brand is completely new to all of us here. What are your thoughts on the fits you're seeing?

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Any feedback is good feedback. Simone is lurking and observes us.

For now, it would say a bigger/oversized size works better with his jeans. At least based on the pics I saw so far.

[ATWM]

This is tough because this is 4 (?) different patterns being tested here too, right? And then for me, I really don’t feel I can assess fit from raws until I’ve had a good week or two in the jeans and things have settled out a bit. But, having gotten a 30’s fit and erring on the larger of the two sizes I was debating, I’m not ready to say I would take any out of the seat. It’s not snug, but if I’d wanted that I wouldn’t have chosen the size nor the 30’s fit - and when you get a bit looser these things are all less consequential. I think the seat is probably a little more fitted than 0105’s with a similar waist - which are definitely anti-fit. I find this 30’s cut sort of in between. 

[MJF9]

Yeah there are a few models at play here

I hadn't noticed the issuette Jared has pointed out on any of the jeans but the guy has a keen eye.  It'll be interesting to see how you feel about this quirk over time as the jeans settle down.  Agreeing with bF, Simo said to me while he hopes everyone really likes the jeans, he's also very interested in any constructive feedback to make his product even better.  I think this sits in that camp.

fwiw Jared, I think your slightly oversized fit on the 5150s looks great... well thought out that was.  Ditto yours aho.  I want me some big WoM jeans now so I'm cold-washing when I get to it.

  

[Alec Leamas]

My 5150's have been through the wash and they're looking mighty fine!

Pre and post as follows:

W35 / L30

Waist: 17" / 15 1/2"
FR: 13" / 12"
BR: 17" / 16"
Thigh: 13" / 12 1/2"
Inseam: 30" / 27 1/2"

They've got more of a pronounced taper than I was expecting, which I like the look of - fit pics will be presented tomorrow, I didn't get any pre-wash!

[JohnM]

5150 (37x35) warm soaked for an hour, then short-cycle (25 min.) warm washed, in the dryer for 10 minutes, and hung to dry.  Pre and post:

W  37" / 35.75"

FR  13.25 / 12.5

BR  18.75 / 18

Thigh  14.75 / 14

Knee  10.675 / 9.75

LO  9.375 / 8.875

Inseam  35.25 / 32.5