What after G-Star?

[i_denim]

Hi,

I am new here and I am a denim addict. I buy and return over 4 pairs of jeans a month.

I started off in school with Levi's and wore 501s thru college. I finally stepped up with Jack & Jones Vintage a few years ago. That was followed by GAS jean from Italy. When I visited Japan, I was blown away by the jeans at Uniqlo. 

For the last two years, I am with G-Star. I wear their high rise tapered jeans (Type C, Staq, D-Staq) due to a 'Muffin Top' body at the moment. Unlike anything else, they stay up. And they look extremely contemporary. The fact that I work in fashion, my denims get a lot of compliments. I am aware that G-Star denim quality/fabric/wash etc isn't that great. However, their attention to their cuts is unsurpassed in my my opinion. 

My recent struggle is that I am looking to go from my current juvenile look (I am 39 and wear G-Star, Vans and T-shirts to work) to a more decent/office appropriate look. I need similar high rise tapered jeans that are roomy like G-Stars and yet have a slimming look. However, these should be clean looking/more traditional that can be worn with leather boots and a dress shirt. 

Hence, last 6 months I went shopping and picked up 4 pairs of Nudies (Brute Knut, Tilted Tor) and an Edwin ED-55. I like their denim quality and washes. However, they don't fit anything like G-Star. Rather boring looking and also heavy (12.8OZ) so they keeping sliding off no matter what. Edwin isn't roomy at the top at all. The traditional cuts from G-Star (3301) are very boring and don't look good and have a cheap feel to them.

What could I possibly look at the next? I was reading an article that mentioned Diesel and G-Star as the extreme poles of denim industry. Should I look at Diesel? I am not too keen on Japanese denim as they tend to be heavy (14oz typically) and focus more on fabric then on the design/cut. Any suggestions would be highly apreciated.

Edited January 31, 2018 by i_denim

[BlackPig]

Check out mynudies forum. SF may not meet your requirements.

[Foxy2]

try StyleForum or the more fashion-centric sections of SuFU for more fashion-forward stylings - here things tend to concentrate on boring cuts and "heavier" denims with no "washes"...

Edited January 31, 2018 by Foxy2

[Iron Horse]

Buy some Sugarcane 1947s or Warehouse 1001.

[i_denim]

19 hours ago, Iron Horse said:

Buy some Sugarcane 1947s or Warehouse 1001.

Thank you Iron Horse. I did manage to discover Sugarcane Jeans last night as I was vehemently on Google with Selvedge+High Rise. I will check the Warehouse 1001 as well.

The other brands that I found out offer Japanese denim with a high rise+tapered fit are:

1. Naked & Famous Easy Guy Fit

2. orSlow 107 Slim Fit One wash denim

 

Any thoughts on how these brands are perceived in terms of quality and authenticity?

 

   19 hours ago,  Foxy2 said: 

try StyleForum or the more fashion-centric sections of SuFU for more fashion-forward stylings - here things tend to concentrate on boring cuts and "heavier" denims with no "washes"...

Well, I am aware that I am missing out on the real denim. Denim is an American heritage. Japan seems to be catering to a very niche segment by providing artisan denim. This denim is then used both by Japanese brands and some leading non-Japanse brands who seem to be offering very high quality jeans. I am not planning to go down the 'Fast Fashion' route as it goes nowhere. Thankfully, I never was interested in Zara or Diesel.

I want to take a plunge into the Japanese selvedge denim and am reading up a lot to decide on my first pair. My mind tells me to pick up a Nudie in Brute Knut Selvedge as I am familiar with the brand & cut, they work for me. My heart is telling me to try something like Naked & Famous Easy Guy or maybe orSlow 107 Slim Fit. I also looked top Sugarcane Jeans and a Japan Blue.

I think I know I want to go Japan+Selvedge+High Rise+Tapered Fit. Still trying to make sense of one wash, Sanforized, different types of fabric (Rainbow Selvedge?).

I am determined 

 

Edited February 1, 2018 by i_denim

[erk]

Sounds like warehouse 800 if you want to really try something different. Naked and famous aren’t really discussed much on here. 

[Iron Horse]

Yeah, don't get Nudies or N&F. In a year or two's time you'll be saddled with a jean you're not into anymore and will likely sell it. Might as well go for the gold right away.

[i_denim]

4 hours ago, erk said:

Sounds like warehouse 800 if you want to really try something different. Naked and famous aren’t really discussed much on here. 

 

3 hours ago, Iron Horse said:

Yeah, don't get Nudies or N&F. In a year or two's time you'll be saddled with a jean you're not into anymore and will likely sell it. Might as well go for the gold right away.

Thanks, both.

 

Is there an order of superiority when I am looking at these brands? I have found a fit/cut in each that will work for me:

 

1. Momotaro

2. Warehouse

3. Sugarcane

4. orSlow

5. Edwin

[Iron Horse]

1. Warehouse

2. Sugar Cane

3. orSlow

4. Momotaro

5. Edwin

IMHO

[i_denim]

32 minutes ago, Iron Horse said:

1. Warehouse

2. Sugar Cane

3. orSlow

4. Momotaro

5. Edwin

IMHO

Thanks a lot.

 

What is the official website for Sugarcane denim? Is it www.sugarcanejeans.co.uk or www.selfedge.com or something else?

I need to ship the jeans to India so any stores that are reliable and ship worldwide for these brands would be very helpful.

[danii]

Get IJIN MATERIAL. They are quality made, quality material, have contemporary details you might be looking for. Not sure if they are still around tho.

[erk]

I wouldn’t bother with sugar cane. I think their 47 cut is very much altered to suit an Asian frame. I’ve got a pair and I find the fit to be very unflattering. Rise seems low - hip flare out the wazoo. Fabric and details are cool tho. Warehouse is where I’d look. 

Edited February 1, 2018 by erk

[Iron Horse]

3 hours ago, i_denim said:

Thanks a lot.

 

What is the official website for Sugarcane denim? Is it www.sugarcanejeans.co.uk or www.selfedge.com or something else?

I need to ship the jeans to India so any stores that are reliable and ship worldwide for these brands would be very helpful.

Sugar Cane's official site doesn't have online shopping, just catalogs, but it's:

http://toyo-enterprise.co.jp

You can buy from Self Edge as it's more convenient if you need to do a size exchange, or try here but international order exchanges are rarely accepted.

[Outdoorsman]

To add to the confusion, the Sugar Cane 1947 jeans has three variations: the classic 1947 and the Type 2 and Type 3. The classic is high rise, but full leg. Type 2 is slim-straight and Type 3 is slim-tapered, but with a mid-rise. I have the Type 3 myself and I like it a lot

[i_denim]

Sorry to go off track but how is the Unbranded brand? Since raw denim I imagine would be impossible to get right with the first pair, might save some money for a good pair later? They are available on Amazon and international shipping and returns are free.

also, can’t find any decent sites that carry Momotaro and Warehouse in all sizes and ship worldwide.

[Outdoorsman]

@i_denim Warehouse has its own online store: http://www.ware-house.co.jp/?mode=grp&gid=762868

But there are also Western retailers like Blue in Green

I can highly recommend Warehouse's online shop. Ordering was easy and they speak English. Their measurements are fairly accurate too. They ship EMS but you'll have to pay for shipping

Can't help you with momotaro

 

[Cucoo]

Unbranded is fine for the price but they're really low rise, check measurements first. I wore Unbranded when I discovered raw denim myself, I think I made it to 6 months of real time wear before I grew tired of their cut and the kinda boring denim, reading Sufu and seeing pictures of "better" denim doesn't help

My recommendation is to not go for one of the cheap brands like Unbranded, take the plunge and maybe don't get an expensive The Flathead pair but something more reasonable priced. Pays off more in the long run.

[bod]

Japan Blue have a couple of tapered cuts with a high rise, sanforized denim and will not break the bank in terms of cost, have a look over on denimio.

[ZoaldeycK]

Sorry to jump into this discussion , i just join few days ago

I think japan blue and Unbranded 201 cuts will suit your style , its clean with no arcuate , quite modern cut.

If you decide to stretch your budget, check out UES 400T or Resolute Slim Tapered denim.

[i_denim]

Trying to buy in the following order as I only know these brands so far. Hardly anybody who ships to India has the size or size info on their site:

 

1. Warehouse 800

2. Unbranded UB601 (Losse Tapered)

3. Momotaro G004

 

[bartlebyyphonics]

just talking from my experience (never owned a '47 cut... but they are the classic...)

tender 130 cut is fitting the bill for tapered but with decent top block / high enough rise [but super long leg]... not repro cut if you avoiding that & good good denim

never owned warehouse, but that is a pasture i look fwd v much to exploring...

stared at momotaro a long time: but didn't like stitching color...

orSlow make great chore jackets, but not that sure about their jeans... [look at bit too tight for my tastes]

[dont stress it and just try things out... my first raw were lvc 1880-ish model many years back; very happy with them then and now - have no fear of raw... inexact science, but maximum reward]

 

Edited February 1, 2018 by bartlebyyphonics

[i_denim]

In terms of cut, unbranded UB601 is closest to what I need. In fact they have a new limited edition UB622 that has 1% Spandex. I have never worn 100% cotton but I think if I am going raw, I should avoid spandex?

 

The Unbranded Brand Men's Ub601-Relaxed Tapered, Indigo, 36 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XHQP9QD/ref=cm_sw_r_wa_api_wS8CAb70XK5HZ

https://theunbrandedbrand.com/collections/all/products/ub622-relaxed-tapered-fit-11oz-indigo-selvedge

Finally figured the fit I should wear in raw world. It’s called “relaxed tapered” front rise should be greater or equal to 12 inches and leg opening no more than 7-8 inches. While I know nothing about which branded creates fits from what year, I think I need to pick a brand that uses good Japanese selvedge denim and experiments with modern cuts and fits. Will gradually understand the vintage fits and start buying those. Anybody know anything about Rainbow Selvedge as those hems look too good.

Today I will find a site that has credible measurements for warehouse 800 and Japan Blue and then order one of them. May also look at Heller’s cafe as they are a warehouse collaboration and I like the back belt buckle and weird back pockets.

Self ridge doesn’t carry warehouse. Denimo and sonofstag online seem to be my option. I am traveling to Dubai this weekend but that hardly sounds like a place to find good selvedge denim? I know they have a Bloomingdales there if nothing else.

Edited February 2, 2018 by i_denim

[Niro]

Just to let you know that what one brand call a certain fit is not the same with other brands. Always better to go with measurements like the 12 inch+ front rise and leg opening of 7-8 inches you said above. I think people will be able to help you better with suggestions now. Also what is your waist measurement?

Somet have recently released high tapered fit, but legs are very slim (can check out on blueingreen website). Not a fan of the painted back pockets, but it might be your thing.

Japan Blue as others have suggested have a few high tapered jeans out. They are a sub-brand of Momotaro (top quality japanese brand). If you are worried about spending lot of money on your first pair then I would start there as they are on the lower end of the price scale but with good quality.

 

Edited February 2, 2018 by Niro

[i_denim]

3 hours ago, Niro said:

Just to let you know that what one brand call a certain fit is not the same with other brands. Always better to go with measurements like the 12 inch+ front rise and leg opening of 7-8 inches you said above. I think people will be able to help you better with suggestions now. Also what is your waist measurement?

Somet have recently released high tapered fit, but legs are very slim (can check out on blueingreen website). Not a fan of the painted back pockets, but it might be your thing.

Japan Blue as others have suggested have a few high tapered jeans out. They are a sub-brand of Momotaro (top quality japanese brand). If you are worried about spending lot of money on your first pair then I would start there as they are on the lower end of the price scale but with good quality.

 

Thanks a lot. Yes, the requirements is 13 inch rise and up to 8 inch leg opening. It’s called extreme tapered / relaxed tapered by fashion brands.

i looked up Japan Blue on self edge and they cost $300. I thought that’s expensive for a first pair. In fact, everything on that site is expensive. I will check elsewhere. Thanks again.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Self Edge doesn't carry Japan Blue. They carry Pure Blue Japan...different brand. Also Self Edge is more expensive because they have brick&mortar stores and they are located in the US. They have to import the jeans first (shipping costs, taxes) and then sell them to you.

This is the brand Niro talked about:

https://www.denimio.com/japan-blue

[i_denim]

Where does the brand “Edwin Jeans” stand in all this? I thought it was the best but nobody seems to be talking about it.

for my first raw pair, I want to buy from amazon as the over buying experience is excellent; including internal shipping, customs, returns and exchanges.

i am getting Edwin and Unbranded Jeans on amazon at almost the same price. What should I prefer? Both have a relaxed tapered fit to my liking UB601 vs Edwin Ed-45.

[zwer]

Neither.

Or both.

You've received a lot of very clear advice across a number of threads. You're choosing not to heed it. Good luck.

[i_denim]

12 minutes ago, zwer said:

Neither.

Or both.

You've received a lot of very clear advice across a number of threads. You're choosing not to heed it. Good luck.

Thanks. I am not ignoring the advice. Trying to find a pair to my specs, that's all.

[zwer]

You're ignoring the forest for the trees.

Measurements are only a guide as to how your jeans are going to fit for the first few times you wear them. After the first few times, your jeans stretch. If you're buying high rise because you don't want your jeans to fall down, or you're trying to cover the spill over from your stomach, you're making a mistake. You don't need new jeans, you need a new belt.

And the cheaper the jeans, the faster and more your jeans stretch, because the denim quality isn't as high. 

With almost all of the brands that are discussed in /superdenim, you get what you pay for and if you're interested in getting a pair of decent quality jeans, you should follow the advice that you've been given. You should be so lucky as to have a pair of Warehouse for your first proper pair of jeans. 

[SuperJackle]

Okay, I'll say it; your question should have gone in either the small questions thread, or maybe the "this or that" thread which are both at the top of the main superdenim page. Starting a new thread is generally reserved for a specific denim brand, or various themes.

 I think everyone was just trying to help initially, but it's becoming a junk thread. Probably should lock this one up mods. Surprised it made it this far.