What about Jeans Jackets ....

[swiss-jeansfreak]

Looking like a very nice repro, but I don‘t know about the sizings on repros.

[House md]

Thanks. If I like it I hope it shrinks, I just read they run big.

[House md]

The jacket arrived today. It‘s a cool one, nice fabric from japan. It‘s not that good finished, but all in all okay. It runs big, close to one size larger, nevertheless wearable. Unfortunately the tag says „no wash“…dunno why. My plan was a hot soak to shrink it a bit. What do you think: soak it nevertheless?

Edited July 16 by House md

[House md]

Thanks, I‘ve returned it after I recognized a somewhat „wrong“ sewn on sleeve. Ok.

I‘ve stumbled over a FOB Factory Type 3 jacket in rinsed selvage:

Since I know FOB Factory Denim not personally, any information (quality, sizing)? Thanks

Edited July 19 by House md

[indigoeagle]

From my experience FOB are not aiming to produce exact repros, but they are inspired by it. 
And they offer quite a good quality/price ratio.
 

Edited July 19 by indigoeagle

[CSL]

I'm sorry to hear the Lee 101 jacket had quality control issues.
A few years back, I bought one of their jackets which became a go to piece for me. 
While obviously not on the level of the Japanese heritage brands, it was a super solid piece that looked great on.
Apparently the brand has gone downhill.

[shredwin_206]

[House md]

22 hours ago, CSL said:

I'm sorry to hear the Lee 101 jacket had quality control issues.
A few years back, I bought one of their jackets which became a go to piece for me. 
While obviously not on the level of the Japanese heritage brands, it was a super solid piece that looked great on.
Apparently the brand has gone downhill.

Yes, bad experience. The left sleeve was slightly twisted…strange. Mustn‘t be the case on a 300€ jacket. Sad that Lee is  in such a bad constitution.

Concerning FOB the jackets are here in the 280-300€ pricerange, similar to other japanese brands. I‘ve found the type 3 jacket (not so wild about an 1:1 repro, as long as it‘s made by hand from good selvage denim) on sale at cultizm, can‘t wait to get it.

Edited July 20 by House md

[julian-wolf]

Twisted how? Reverse leg twist isn’t all that uncommon on jeans / jackets made from sanforized denim; I’d hardly call it a QC issue…that’s just how denim works

[House md]

12 minutes ago, julian-wolf said:

Twisted how? Reverse leg twist isn’t all that uncommon on jeans / jackets made from sanforized denim; I’d hardly call it a QC issue…that’s just how denim works

Nope. The sleeve was sewed on in a weird way. That has nothing to do with leg twist.

[julian-wolf]

Oh dang, that’s a shame 

[House md]

The overall quality of the jacket wasn't up to par—the lining had a loose thread and the zipper was sticky. Additionally, the jacket was made in Tunisia, not Italy or Portugal as I expected. Lee, however, is charging €300 for the jacket, putting it in the same price range as Japanese brands or LVC. Lee isn't making any new friends among us denim heads this way. It's a shame.

[House md]

The Jacket arrived today and it’s amazing. Nice slubby and hairy denim. Perfectly finished. Unfortunately it‘s roundabout one size too big (size 44, recommended by Cultizm and Fob Factory, I usually wear L/42).

Since this jacket is rinsed, how much shrinking can I expect from a hot soak?

 

[House md]

Okay, I was too impatient

soaked at 60 degrees and shrunk by 4-5%. I guess that‘s nice

[indigoeagle]

Selvedge cloth at the rivet on the inside of the chest pocket.
I've only seen this on Freewheelers' 506 and 507.
Is this FWs taking artistic licence with this little detail or are they the only ones to have bothered to replicate?
The original Levi's jackets have the size tag above the leather patch and I have also only seen that on FW's jackets.

 

[Lorcan]

56 minutes ago, indigoeagle said:

Selvedge cloth at the rivet on the inside of the chest pocket.
I've only seen this on Freewheelers' 506 and 507.
Is this FWs taking artistic licence with this little detail or are they the only ones to have bothered to replicate?
The original Levi's jackets have the size tag above the leather patch and I have also only seen that on FW's jackets.

 

I think the button reinforcement is a Freewheelers artistic licence thing? It's not something I've ever seen highlighted on vintage jackets eg. on denimarchieves.com

 The FW Ironalls chore jacket has extra backing on the ring-back buttons inside the front placket I believe (I don't own one...yet), at least Iceclimber's photo's look like they show this.

The size tag above the leather patch is definitely repro'd by other makers- my Neat Style x Denim Bridge has it, BoT and CSF have done it too. Sugar Cane SCSC 1946 has it, but the 1943/1945 don't because the vintage jackets they based it off didn't.

[Maynard Friedman]

Button reinforcement on my Eternal Type II, not selvedge though. No similar reinforcement on my TCB 30s jacket.

[MJF9]

@Maynard Friedman looks like some good wear on that there jacket... in fact, it's exactly the kind of thing denim enthusiasts might like to stare at on a denim forum 😉

[indigoeagle]

5 hours ago, Lorcan said:

 

The size tag above the leather patch is definitely repro'd by other makers- my Neat Style x Denim Bridge has it, BoT and CSF have done it too. Sugar Cane SCSC 1946 has it, but the 1943/1945 don't because the vintage jackets they based it off didn't.

I had remembered that a SCSC jacket had the size tag. But then I had a quick look at the Sugarcane site and saw the 43 and 45 ones, which - like you said- don't have it.

It's funny- it's a little detail, but somehow to me quite enjoyable. 

In the Vintage Denim Jacket book there are two mid 30s jackets (Still with the small buttons, National Recovery Act versions) and they have size tag below the leather patch (vs. on the top for the later 506s).

[swiss-jeansfreak]

5 hours ago, Maynard Friedman said:

Button reinforcement on my Eternal Type II, not selvedge though. No similar reinforcement on my TCB 30s jacket.

Even with the light weight denim fabric inside the flap of the breast pocket. Such an awesome authentic vintage detail!

[Lorcan]

34 minutes ago, indigoeagle said:

I had remembered that a SCSC jacket had the size tag. But then I had a quick look at the Sugarcane site and saw the 43 and 45 ones, which - like you said- don't have it.

It's funny- it's a little detail, but somehow to me quite enjoyable. 

In the Vintage Denim Jacket book there are two mid 30s jackets (Still with the small buttons, National Recovery Act versions) and they have size tag below the leather patch (vs. on the top for the later 506s).

Yeah I feel the same, the one on my FW 1946-47 is pretty frayed and curled up at this point but it's like another little ageing thing to enjoy. The SCSC 1946 one (and its vintage counterpart) look longer than I've seen on other repros. I still need the Vintage Denim Jacket book. 

 

[indigoeagle]

34 minutes ago, Lorcan said:

Yeah I feel the same, the one on my FW 1946-47 is pretty frayed and curled up at this point but it's like another little ageing thing to enjoy. The SCSC 1946 one (and its vintage counterpart) look longer than I've seen on other repros. I still need the Vintage Denim Jacket book. 

 

Two years ago or so, the 501XX book was already sold out everywhere, but the jacket book was still available. 
I just had a quick look and it also now seems to be sold out everywhere.
Hopefully they'll do a rerelease at BerBerJin or so.
https://www.hanmoto.com/bd/isbn/9784846500283

Someone is asking JPY 20,000:

https://item.fril.jp/27fae705bc77fcc1b56b35c9ac459603

 

Edited July 27 by indigoeagle

[House md]

Concerning my Fob jacket- it fits nearly perfect and I love it but the sleeves are still too long for my liking. Dunno why they made them that long 😖
I expect the jacket to become even tighter after subsequent washes, but until then: How much natural shrinkage can be expected in the sleeves due to the creases forming in the crook of the elbows? 

[ATWM]

^ They'll come in a little bit probably, but not much. 

Sleeves that are a little too long are always more welcome than ones that are too short, IMO. Chances are with the factory wash and the one you did most if not all of the notable shrinkage is out. 

You can always roll up the sleeve a little. It's pretty rare these things are perfect compared to a tailored piece, it's sort of the charm of them for some people. 

[House md]

^ The left sleeve after ~ 10 hrs. That is fast creasing 👍🏼 A little bit of „natural tailoring“ happens. I'm thinking about adding a second button to each cuff to tighten them more (similar to the waist buttons). I'll see if FOB can send me some buttons. And man, there's a lot of indigo in there. My fingers are blue 😉

[Maynard Friedman]

Any decent tailor could detach the cuffs, shorten the sleeves and reattach them. It’s a simple job and if the thread is matched, barely noticeable, if at all.

[House md]

9 minutes ago, Maynard Friedman said:

Any decent tailor could detach the cuffs, shorten the sleeves and reattach them. It’s a simple job and if the thread is matched, barely noticeable, if at all.

I've already thought about that, of course, but I want to see how it turns out in wear first. It's also a bit complicated, since I'd have to ship the jacket for a chain stitch.

[Maynard Friedman]

From the outside, a lock stitch will look identical (as well as being stronger) and a chainstitched jacket cuff isn’t going to create roping like a hem on a pair of jeans anyway. Obviously it’s your choice but if that were me, I’d take the pragmatic approach and go to a local tailor. Good luck whatever you choose.

[Geeman]

Same here, I end up taking a lot of my jackets and shirts to have the sleeves shortened a little. A decent job makes it unnoticeable