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Shoes that look better with age...

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ah, thanx: makes some more sense!

I would have thought it was completely random, but one of the top tagged post using that hashtag is by the esteemed dr sole of a rather ebullient jason mamoa being rather enthusiastic with his wescos...

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Anyone know if a celastic toe box will collapse and break in over time? 

My backup pair of smokejumpers I had rebuilt have a celastic toe and I hate it. 

It pinched my toes when I crouch and kneel which is a lot when you work construction 

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@bartlebyyphonics those cheaney fiennes are incredible, they have aged nicely and the wear is interesting and subtle.  I am really starting to come around to grain leather especially for a boot like that.  Something like this is going on my list.

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Polishing Sunday (been a while). Alden cordovan boots, I don't remember the style name or the last I'm afraid. These are twelve years old I think, currently on Dainite soles:

1D95BE95-8789-4BC5-A189-507D7D913C5D.thumb.jpeg.32b7387fbb3c9f9e9683a3a3075723d1.jpeg288B21B8-055A-456B-816E-8297EFB90808.thumb.jpeg.d0056beadfff214c684f0e9ac01638da.jpeg

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14 hours ago, HGS said:

@bartlebyyphonics those cheaney fiennes are incredible, they have aged nicely and the wear is interesting and subtle.  I am really starting to come around to grain leather especially for a boot like that.  Something like this is going on my list.

hey: thanks. they were a bit of an impulse rather than super planned item: no regrets: comfy all the way; would never have planned to get a leather like that: but it works work werks

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^ excellent boot / chukka parade @bartlebyyphonics

Here here to the pebble grain texture of those Cheaneys... will be interested to see those Russell mocs evolve...

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Posted (edited)

@ecsong187at least a little in my experience, but by far not as much as an unstructured toebox. But I can only speak for my wescos, had the same problem with them, but it got better with wear.

 

Edited by Thanks_M8
Toebox not toolbox

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Posted (edited)

some new vintage bargains (it’s been a minute since i last posted):

tecnic veldtschoen, aldershot model (€ 50 including shipping from britain, € 25(!) for the shoes alone), 1980s, size 42 eu, size 08 uk.
great fit, very comfortable—and some heavy shoes to boot. :D


1898379235_tecnic04.thumb.jpg.3df8741eebb83bd576d88f55a1cfb344.jpg708446729_tecnic03.thumb.jpg.4b9f4a9189b5d0e1d7f8a27a164be3b1.jpg936491746_tecnic02.thumb.jpg.383721b1c4b7033a1d87cd4c157b45b7.jpg837159119_tecnic05.thumb.jpg.45803fedeae220054376b6e083791388.jpg

unknown british ankle boots, zug leather (€ 125 including shipping from britain, € 100 for the shoes alone), 1940s-1950s, size 43 eu, size 09 uk.
snug fit, supple leather—the color is wonderful. studded sole, packing a punch.

2091653410_stnazaireboots05s-l1600.thumb.jpg.a1917af3ec4792b058f9d8c225b37418.jpg796381589_stnazaireboots04s-l1600.thumb.jpg.686af63aec7444752ef39842fe74e309.jpg1386755270_stnazaireboots06s-l1600.thumb.jpg.d782c4f14b079d565a31804e3cfdf84a.jpg1954898687_stnazaireboots03s-l1600.thumb.jpg.137727a57f987fab13296e94b2a4da5f.jpg

Edited by cameosis

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On 4/27/2019 at 2:02 PM, Iron Horse said:

I have no idea what the zoo-club thing is; my only guess is that ツーブー (tsubu) is some sort of backwards/typo version of ブーツ (butsu) or 'boots'. My Japanese isn't good enough for this mystery!

i’d concur. not following instagram, but it’s either syllable reversal (not uncommon in japanese hipster lingo) or »tube«.

On 4/27/2019 at 12:45 PM, bartlebyyphonics said:

4/4

in thanks to @Iron Horse's post earlier down the thread of japanese boot IG accounts, some favorites, whites sj (?), a nice clinch jodphur boot (not seen here before?) and a range of nicely worn redwings

impressed by the #browncore obsessions on the klondike leather (and am guessing older vintage pairs) of some redwing offerings and of the hem to ankle ratio going on in some of these posts... [also: what is #zooclub / #ツーブー倶楽部 - used a hashtag for boot lovers, but any ideas of the zoo connotations?]

i pains me to see morons who think that damaging or destroying quality footwear is fashionable or »cool« … the other ig pictures are ace, though!

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19 hours ago, cameosis said:

i’d concur. not following instagram, but it’s either syllable reversal (not uncommon in japanese hipster lingo) or »tube«.

i pains me to see morons who think that damaging or destroying quality footwear is fashionable or »cool« … the other ig pictures are ace, though!

incredible hobnail boots sir!

glad you enjoying the ig choices, but to put the damaged rw shot in context

the interest of it is that shot is the sense that there may be a possible model of rw 2268 that is teacore aka #browncore

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Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, bartlebyyphonics said:

incredible hobnail boots sir!

glad you enjoying the ig choices, but to put the damaged rw shot in context

the interest of it is that shot is the sense that there may be a possible model of rw 2268 that is teacore aka #browncore

something like this, perhaps?

20225522_157843581440897_776042415914169

thanks much about the hobnail boots! the only credit i can take is that i bought them. :D

i wasn’t knocking your posts, by the way—my point of criticism was that some people think damaging or destroying the top layer of your leather footwear (of well-made products in particular) is a fashion statement. it’s a waste of resources and disrespectful to the animal that provided it (regardless of how esoteric this may sound).

i was working for a boutique leather shop for several years and was in charge of selecting the hides (quality control)—this could sometimes take an entire day, inspecting them for flaws, cuts, blemishes et al. i do like leather to show scars and the like, but in an organic way, not by such destructive nonsense.

i was involved in: the production of this chair/ottoman set, amongst others

Thonet%20S%2035%20Pure.jpg

personally, i find the restoration of vintage shoes and boots much more enjoyable as well as sensible (i had posted a few such projects 2-3 years back in this thread, documenting the steps from cleaning  the boots with distilled water · removing dirt and shoe cream/polish by sanding in order to reveal the original color · how to change eyelets yourself · to applying leather grease and finally resoling/cobbler service).

i’ve finally got all my boots in one place and i might be able to take pictures of them by the end of the month to document the state of affairs in 2019.

Edited by cameosis

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not mine, but theme-related web find:

52761081_314775362574888_645699732648559

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55 minutes ago, cameosis said:

i was working for a boutique leather shop for several years and was in charge of selecting the hides (quality control)—this could sometimes take an entire day, inspecting them for flaws, cuts, blemishes et al. i do like leather to show scars and the like, but in an organic way, not by such destructive nonsense.

Fascinating, can we get some insight? What do you look for/what are the signs of really good quality leather, in your opinion?

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Ugh...I'm seeing a doctor for possible orthotics.  If I need them,  I will have to submit a new feet sheet to wesco with them on.  I have flat feet supposedly.

 

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My Vibram 2724 half soles came in for my Wesco Boss.  These were extremely hard to find other than overseas.  The retailer I bought from on EBay is the only one that will sell these directly to the customer while others will only sell to shoe repair shops for large orders.

Unfortunately, I have a trip scheduled to a foot doctor that may or may not prescribe orthotics.  If that's the case, I will have to send new fit sheets to everyone that has mine on file.

Vibram 2724 size 12 and 14.  Wesco will determine which one to use once I send them in.

IMG_4781.JPG

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If anybody is interested in the link to the seller I bought them from, let me know.

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Nothing too fancy here folks, but wanted to share a positive experience with getting my RW 2968 reheeled in the UK. 

Sent them off to The Boot Repair Co - http://www.bootrepaircompany.co.uk/

Very quick turnaround of about a week and a quality like for like replacement. Recommended.

 

76A583A8-ADB9-40C6-B87D-4E2A515D642A.jpeg

4790F1F1-A090-4875-9C66-D8C6121900DC.jpeg

79837016-911B-482F-A718-77896D14BA4F.jpeg

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What kind of sneakers are you guys wearing?
Might pick up some new 70s for the summer, just wondering if there's anything new or interesting out there that I might've missed.

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On 5/9/2019 at 8:17 AM, cameosis said:

cordovan (as a final point), is a pure luxury item, because it’s made out of workhorses ass cheeks, so there’s not much to begin with. all horse leather can be (and is) used for shoe production, it’s wonderful leather with a distinct surface and, later, patina. do you know how much a square meter costs at a tannery?

€ 40 (in words: forty euros), that’s less than cow leather (depending on the tanning) … i know, because i asked (specifically regarding cordovan), i could’ve literally taken a car load with me … but then again, i don’t wear shoes that big.

You sure it was shell cordovan and not "cordovan" leather i.e. the color or calf leather that mimics the shine of cordovan. I ask only because Horween, Shinki, and Clayton supposedly sells theirs at $100+ sq ft. Likewise, there was also a little mix up that Mike from Epaulet had with his Portuguese supplier (wasn't shell cordovan but calf leather called cordovan).

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Posted (edited)
16 hours ago, Broark said:

What kind of sneakers are you guys wearing?
Might pick up some new 70s for the summer, just wondering if there's anything new or interesting out there that I might've missed.

At dirty makes some nice mij converse lookalikes but they might be sold out now since they've been out for awhile unless Cannonball is still selling them.  Warehouse has some nice ones too.

Me personally, will probably do some cheap all stars or vans while one of my shoes is getting  a resole.  I don't like spending a bunch of money on sneakers due trashing them over the years.

Edited by mlwdp

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Some pics from my small collection. 

1. Viberg 310 Last, merlot cxl. 
like 8-9 years old. Heel recently replaced. 

IMG_2372.thumb.JPG.56aa98c61c965a707a29057f536368df.JPG

 

2. Custom Wesco Jobmaster
7oz oil tan leather r/o leather x black pebble, olive heavy stitching, narrow last, brass hardware, 1 lift lower heel.

IMG_2374.thumb.JPG.70350c0bb4f7ff616b390e2afa34aa46.JPG

 

3. White's packer, originally steel toe. 
was customised by brass tokyo. full resole to 705 vibram half soles, steel toe removed, unstructured toe now.
10 years old or os. 

IMG_2373.thumb.JPG.7242e98b8435b51d1121be4956beab39.JPG

IMG_2386.thumb.JPG.a04ad9c1554b46ee624524d71c984682.JPG

 

4. RedWing GT
Thats how it all started. Like 9-10 years old. Black cherry. Customized few times. Resoled with Dr. Sole white soles. Rolled top removed and added stitching on top. Some new laces here.
False tongues were bought somewhere in Germany i believe =) 
IMG_2387.thumb.JPG.dc114a05046e0de515023c402487cba5.JPG

IMG_2376.thumb.JPG.2eab4b9f4eb773bfe4e079e8e07ec747.JPG

IMG_2377.thumb.JPG.51d57b6f68917017edbce28809bf1c64.JPG

 

5. Alden x Leffot saddle shoes. 
Cordovan x Alpine grain leather 

IMG_2384.thumb.JPG.a78aa7c3fac54d98a50aaa667ae76589.JPG

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Posted (edited)
On 5/23/2019 at 2:44 AM, ALB said:

You sure it was shell cordovan and not "cordovan" leather i.e. the color or calf leather that mimics the shine of cordovan. I ask only because Horween, Shinki, and Clayton supposedly sells theirs at $100+ sq ft. Likewise, there was also a little mix up that Mike from Epaulet had with his Portuguese supplier (wasn't shell cordovan but calf leather called cordovan).

as i said, i worked with leather for six years, and when i was at the tannery, both i and the tanner talked about horse leather and cordovan, so no calf leather involved there. doesn't get any clearer than this.

Edited by cameosis

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Posted (edited)
22 minutes ago, cameosis said:

as i said, i worked with leather for six years, and when i was at the tannery, both i and the tanner talked about horse leather and cordovan, so no calf leather involved there. doesn't get any clearer than this.

Well, I mean I curious as to how you could be able to procure cordovan at 40 euros then since other leather workers have tried and the quotes they're given for the various grades is much much higher. Almost seems too good to be true. Likewise, what was the tannery? There's apparently few who can tan cordovan and the process for it is supposedly more laborious.

Edited by ALB

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10 hours ago, ALB said:

Well, I mean I curious as to how you could be able to procure cordovan at 40 euros then since other leather workers have tried and the quotes they're given for the various grades is much much higher. Almost seems too good to be true. Likewise, what was the tannery? There's apparently few who can tan cordovan and the process for it is supposedly more laborious.

i didn't. i inquired about it and got the quote from the tanner at that time.

it's an active business contact of my former boss, so i'm not at liberty to share this kind of information, sorry.

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from what i see, clayton has been in administration and had to lay off the majority of its employees.

it remains to be seen if the revival effort will be successful:

https://www.drapersonline.com/news/latest-news/british-leather-manufacturer-bought-out-of-administration/7032690.article

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Posted (edited)

^I'm with ALB.

Once I have also asked to Shinki and Horween (They were the only two cordovan suppliers AFAIK) and they both said over $100 sq.ft depending on the grade (Better cordovan costs x1.5).

 

http://vegtan.blogspot.com/2015/08/horween-part4.html

This blog is about the price of cordovan. (Sorry it's in Japanese)

The graph says 2 sq.ft costs $202 in Jun 2014 and I'm very sure the current price is higher.

So I am also very curious about which tannery sells at 40 euro.

Is it really retail price? Have you seen the leather itself?  Are there any pictures? Which maker uses that cordovan?

 

And as ALB said before, there are various interpretations about the word "cordovan".

This is my cordovan shoes.

img_0?1546424525

 

1950s Town Shoes from Wolverine

 

 

img_2?1546424525

It clearly says cordovan.

 

 

img_1?1546424525

But people can easily says its not cordovan (both upper and outsole).

 

 

 

img_3?1546424525

This is the ad from 1956 LIFE magazine.

 

 

Now and old, cordovan is not always the cordovan like Alden uses, even if horse leather is used.

Edited by kameidaclub

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