Levi's Vintage Clothing

[Paul T]

Nickel is toxic, and science knew this more than 15 years ago. That means LVC does not "improve" their products quickly enough...

IMO, LVC did not think about this issue. At least, it was not the main reason for changing material.

Well, you're wrong. The LVC head designer would prefer to use nickel, as that's more authentic, but they've been forced to change, possibly due to California environmental legislation - which as many know, is pretty comprehensive - or more likely as part of Levi's new sourcing policies, which by all accounts are a pain in the butt.

[erk]

thanks for shedding some light on it paul.

[Paul T]

I hasten to add I haven't got the new buttons, afaik, i"m not condoning them as I don't know how they wear (the aged sew-on ones look pretty good. If there is a button conspiracy, I'm not in on it, and surely life is too short to bother negging people for such arcane reasons.

As mentioned in the Bud Strickland interview, Levi's are standardising their sourcing policies, to ensure uniformity across different regions. The standards cover issues like crocking - so suppliers get hassle from the business side, because the denim crocks, but if they eliminate crocking, they get hassle from the designers because the denim's not dark enough.

[Dr_Heech]

Just noticed an auction on the bay for the new 1950's Lvc 517xx type 2 jacket, showing the pocket corners at least have rivets in the style used from the mid-sixties onwards -

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1953-Type-II-Blanket-Lined-Jacket-Rigid-BigE-Levis-vintage-clothing-USA-/160725934711?pt=US_CSA_MC_Outerwear&hash=item256c032277

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[colgems1966]

Neither Chrome or Nickel plating are known for rusting. Otherwise Hot Rods would become Hot Rusts after a drizzle

As nickel being "poisonous", I believe you meant to say allergy inducing.

well i can see you have no firsthand experience with chrome because it will indeed rust if not polished. i've had vintage autos in the past and you had to buy chrome polish to keep it up esp in areas that are recessed where moisture gathers. otherwise rust would form.

[colgems1966]

I believe previous buttons were nickel plated and that they've had to drop this due to issues with nickel being poisonous.

Edit: sorry if this bugs you, no-svg, I merely report, I don't condone! x

that's a damn shame and it makes me like the change even less. if the nanny state keeps it up you won't be able to have anything cool anymore.---too hazardous.

[robbie]

Just noticed an auction on the bay for the new 1950's Lvc 517xx type 2 jacket, showing the pocket corners at least have rivets in the style used from the mid-sixties onwards -

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item256c032277

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wow, beautiful jacket. I guess I had no clue that the type two's had rivets on the pockets, thats a detail I really like. thanks for sharing Doc.

[bluegoldblues]

Type II's dont have rivets in on the pockets...

and if you look at the patch for some reason LVC have decided to call this blanket lined type II a 519 XX when infant its a (very bad) repro of a 517 XX!

Some really shocking mistakes made by LVC when you think about!

[Dr_Heech]

wow, beautiful jacket. I guess I had no clue that the type two's had rivets on the pockets, thats a detail I really like. thanks for sharing Doc.

That's the added worry - the originals never even had riveted pockets, only riveted cuffs.

The riveted pocket disappeared with the 506xx.

Glad you like it though.

@Colgems1966 - check your pm's mate!

[edit] - and thanks for that other overlooked mistake BGB

Edited January 31, 2012 by Dr_Heech

[Goominim]

Will they ever bring back the 1873 ducks?

[Dr_Heech]

Will they ever bring back the 1873 ducks?

They reintroduced them in 2010 (minus back yoke -oops!) along with the duck 'closed front jumper' (smock-like pullover).

Not sure if they'll do them again. Paul T would have some idea, I'm sure.

[Paul T]

They reintroduced them in 2010 (minus back yoke -oops!) along with the duck 'closed front jumper' (smock-like pullover).

Not sure if they'll do them again. Paul T would have some idea, I'm sure.

I don't know. Yes, don't understand the old model, with no yoke. Likewise that 517. I spotted one error that will have Dr Heech spitting on a much-anticipated autumn item when I dropped in to look again at the 1874 jacket. I hope they'll catch it.

In the wake of all that justified negativity, I do love the 1874 though - and best of all, I think there will be one in cotton duck.

Edited January 31, 2012 by Paul T

[Dr_Heech]

I don't know. Yes, don't understand the old model, with no yoke. Likewise that 517. I spotted one error that will have Dr Heech spitting on a much-anticipated autumn item when I dropped in to look again at the 1874 jacket. I hope they'll catch it.

In the wake of all that justified negativity, I do love the 1974 though - and best of all, I think there will be one in cotton duck.

I'm poised and ready matey! Looking forward to the 1874/1974 duck/denim jacket btw.

[Goominim]

Must be a polyester cotton blend.

[Paul T]

I'm poised and ready matey! Looking forward to the 1874/1974 duck/denim jacket btw.

There's no escaping the eagle-eyed doctor.

[Maynard Friedman]

Glad you too have kissed and made up!

[Bamahater]

I have that blanket lined jacket and even with the inaccuricies it is a really nice piece. I would not however pay full retail for it though. $400 is kinda steep. Glad I got mine on sale.

Edited February 1, 2012 by Bamahater

[Goominim]

They reintroduced them in 2010 (minus back yoke -oops!) along with the duck 'closed front jumper' (smock-like pullover).

Not sure if they'll do them again. Paul T would have some idea, I'm sure.

I assumed the yoke was a mistake and the 2010 model corrected it … according to this source: http://www.levisguide.com/beginning/beginning.html

[Paul T]

I assumed the yoke was a mistake and the 2010 model corrected it … according to this source: http://www.levisguid.../beginning.html

Interesting pic, thanks for posting. ALl of the original cotton duck waist overalls I've seen have the yoke - there's an unworn pair in the Levi's archives. I wonder what Mike thinks.

[Goominim]

It even shows those funny pleats. Of course the "overalls" were huge because they wore them over their regular pants.

[Paul T]

The 1874 Triple Pleat Jacket

I've added a story on the jacket, how Michael Harris found the original and the process of making a replica, on loomstate.

[Goominim]

Even though that's too rich for me, I think that's what LVC should be about. Authentic historic replicas without distressing.

[cheapmuthafukr]

you know what annoys me most about lvc? the red tabs dont curl like the originals. i know it cant be too hard to make em right, because my early 90s evis tab does it perfectly, exactly like all the real big e levis tabs ive seen.

[Paul T]

Indeed. The originals are rayon - they start crinkling up really soon.

[cheapmuthafukr]

the flat clean tabs look like late 70s/early 80s to me. they seem like they stick out too far too...

[setterman]

Even though that's too rich for me, I think that's what LVC should be about. Authentic historic replicas without distressing.

Unfortunately, it seems they have trouble getting the "authentic" part right. The blanket lined 50s jacket and triple pleated blouse are two of the more expensive garments LVC has made lately, but both have mistakes. I can understand having to use different materiel for the buttons or thread, but putting rivets where they don't belong, putting the wrong model # on the tag, and putting a tag in the wrong place (according to Mike Harris the triple pleats tag should be in the center, not off to the side) is inexcusable on a $400+ garment. you're in the business of making over priced historical replicas... ya gotta pay a little more attention to detail! I'm willing to cut them a little slack on the triple pleat, but not the 50s jacket. it's not like it hasn't been a part of the LVC line up off and on the past 15 years, and they don't have dozens of examples to study.

[fardin]

wonderful paul. thank you for the infos. so did i understand it right and lvc is going to make the duck version too?

[Paul T]

wonderful paul. thank you for the infos. so did i understand it right and lvc is going to make the duck version too?

Yes, they are considering a duck version. Fingers crossed they do it as a non limited edition.

Yes, that jacket is expensive, too expensive for me to afford. But compare like with like. Have you seen the price of RRL? Much of which is made in China? Likewise items by Nigel Cabourn, Mr Freedom, SDA, or the Edwin-made Lee ain't cheap. Agreed, that Type 2 is simply not good enough for the money.

[Goominim]

Unfortunately, it seems they have trouble getting the "authentic" part right. The blanket lined 50s jacket and triple pleated blouse are two of the more expensive garments LVC has made lately, but both have mistakes. I can understand having to use different materiel for the buttons or thread, but putting rivets where they don't belong, putting the wrong model # on the tag, and putting a tag in the wrong place (according to Mike Harris the triple pleats tag should be in the center, not off to the side) is inexcusable on a $400+ garment. you're in the business of making over priced historical replicas... ya gotta pay a little more attention to detail! I'm willing to cut them a little slack on the triple pleat, but not the 50s jacket. it's not like it hasn't been a part of the LVC line up off and on the past 15 years, and they don't have dozens of examples to study.

They need to hire or consult with some of the likes of you, that's for sure.

[Dr_Heech]

Glad you too have kissed and made up!

We never broke up, we just accept each other for who we are.

The unstoppable force meets the immovable object.

...and paul, will you pleease stop posting that triple pleated jacket - It's making me crazy jealous!

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