Levi's Vintage Clothing

[Paul T]

HArd to say without seeing the original quote. What they're doing is a mix but in general they seem to be moving to a more authentic reproto me, leaving internal seams unhemmed on early models & I noticed on, for instance, some recent NEvada reissues they've switched to very authetnci denm pocket bags, a big improvement, and recently the 60s arcuate shape seems more accurate and less exaggerated... elsewhere, though, I belueve they've swtiched to polycotton thread throughout because they think it looks identical but is more stable and reliable. Someone at Levi's, not concerned with LVC, told me that some people at the archives had complained because over the last couple of years LVC is, if fucked around with, harder to distinguish from vintage. I don't think he's suggesting they are going to compromise more, I would guess he's simply syaing that vintage repros will always be a compromise.

I dunno where it's all heading for definite. I'll be checking the rivets and cinches on the new items very carefully...

[LFC4ever]

Seems to me if you reproduce an approximate copy you'll get niche disinterest and criticism, quite rightly, and no mainstream market.

If you reproduce a 95% copy (and this is the minimum standard for *trying your best*) you get niche adulation and excess demand even at premium price. Plus the viral brand marketing.

Seems to me they don't really know where they're going.

[grooveholmes]

this all so weird. i hope to get some more clarity. i thought made & crafted was the division set out to re-interpret vintage items, something along the lines of mister freedom? paul, i'm curious to read your reports on future LVC products.

[Paul T]

Made and Crafted is modern designs, but with details and cues taken from vintage items. I will be reporting on them next week, but the story is so detailed i need to find some spare time.

I don't think Maurizio is watering-down the authentic element of LVC, from what I've seen it's the opposite. But they're introducing a lot more 'customised' items - those cut-off Lot 66 would seem the perfect example. I've said before I'm optimistic, but obviously we have to see what we get.

[roy6]

On a purely product-based view, LVC seems as strong as ever, if not more so. This last line is completely consistent with LVC's design for the last decade, and some of the pieces are real standouts, like the two jeans Paul posted recently and the shawl-collar coat.

One quibble I have is that they are blurring the line between the authentic repros and the dreamagined ones. The new hunting jacket they have out is not a repro, but a new design, but all of the retailers I've seen who carry it have it (and a few other sub-line pieces) lumped in with the rest of the LVC stuff.

[ThisSunday]

I think he's telling denim heads that LVC is never going to create perfect reproductions. He also seems very passionate about Made and Crafted. I want to see much more of what to come from LVC & LMC

[entertainment!]

I went to the new Levi's store in the Meatpacking District of NYC today. They have a limited selection of LVC in among quite a bit of other merchandise. I focused on the LVC so I can't tell you much about the rest. They had raw versions of 1890, 1915, 1933, 1944, 1947, 1954z, 1955, and 1966 (no 1937 for some reason). In addition, the Type I jacket, a Sunset chambray shirt with a chinstrap and two asymmetrical pockets similar to last season's, the sawtooth denim shirt, and some plain t-shirts. That what I remember at least. There were no washed or distressed versions of anything that I saw.

I was introduced to the staff "historian" named Robert who was very knowledgeable about LVC going back to the Valencia Street days. He knew about the 555 one button duck jacket for instance and discussed the accuracy of the details through the years. He was also knowledgeable about Lee Japan repros. I was impressed.

I hope they stock a broader range, though.

[nate1492]

Promising that the new Levi's store in NYC is selling LVC. I just talked to someone from Levi's flagship store here in San Francisco and he said they'd be carrying LVC within the next couple weeks. I hope this is true.

[telluride11]

looking forward to checking out that new levi's store. it's a block from my office which is nice.

[telluride11]

paul - outstanding on those lot 66. when did they come out?

[ThinFinn]

so just a short question for y'all

i'm a w34 (tagged) in LVC44s...Should i go with the same one in LVC66s?

thx in advance

[josh mullen]

my 44s are a size 36, as are my 66s. the 66s should come just about

1" larger in the waist than tagged size, and if my recollection is correct, shrink down about 2-2.25" after a couple hot soaks. i also allowed mine to agitate in the machine after the second soak so as to shrink down the top block a little -- which on the 66s is reasonably full. the denim is really great and quite stiff, even after that second soak/wash, which isn't always the case with LVC stuff.

[grooveholmes]

damn, what kind of soak? you might wanna wear them after they hit the water then...

[grooveholmes]

nice... sorry i misread your raw sizing at 36.5, not 35.5 (which you wrote)-- in my mind i was reading 3.5 inches of waist shrink!

regardless, good stuff!

[josh mullen]

i used hot-ass water as well -- the first soak was in water from the hot setting on my machine, and supplemented with some i boiled on the stove. i'm really liking the fit now after a little wear. i've been wearing my wh 800s a lot recently, but feel like i should incorporate the 66s more.

[roy6]

I went to Levi's Vault exhibit today with Mike Harris, who is in town for a book signing at Unionmade tomorrow afternoon. He brought some waistbands and jeans remnants to show to some of the Levi's staff. With Mike below is Una Murphy, who worked for LVC before it moved to Europe, and now runs some of Levi's other lines.

[rnrswitch]

Is harris wearing full Warehouse. What kinda jacket is that?

[eltopo]

awesome stuff Roy!

[grooveholmes]

awesome. must spread... +2 rep for this and the latest photo post in the roy thread.

[Dr_Heech]

awesome stuff Roy!

Agreed, thanks for posting. Really love those awesome little levis - are they a kid's model or a salesman sample do you know?

.

[roy6]

^the little levi's were a early '40s salesman's sample, about 10" (25cm) tall, I think. Should have read the labels more carefully. There was a '60/'70s one as well, with an orange tab.

Sansome's pants are Warehouse, sort of look like a 1901 model, and have a really amazing wash. I though he was wearing something he found at first. The jacket's the same one he was wearing in his Japan pictures, didn't catch if it was Warehouse.

[Happy Hooligan]

I think the pressure would be too much if I went to a Levi's Vault exhibit. I mean WHAT do you wear to something like that?

[roy6]

^ I wore Levi's.

[mikecch]

^ A pair of pre-2009 Sugar Cane 1947

Jokes, I'd wear my LVC 1967 505, and ask them why they didn't use Cone denim on these.

[roy6]

A few more shots:

[rnrswitch]

Too cool. I like it.

[aho]

feel free to re-post those in the Jeans of the Old West thread!

[roy6]

^Oh, I'll have something else for there tomorrow...

[dr.house]

Great stuff Roy, must spread. That sales sample is f.cking awesome.

[ThisSunday]

Thanks for sharing roy6. Must spread

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