Acronym.

[Sypron]

Why do lefties need left handed interops anyway? Before I picked up an acronym bag + interops jacket I previously carried my bag on my left side like a leftie. I figured my right shoulder is stronger, and I have grown comfortable accessing my phone/tablet from my left hand (there are various reasons why many millennials keep their phone in their left front pocket but mine is that I eat with my right hand and at the same time use my phone with the left hand). However once I switched to acronym I had to flip it as it's easier for the person to adapt instead of forcing the garment and the world to change. On the other hand, Errolson Hugh is a rebel...

 

 

Fantastic write up and analysis SuE, kudos. I'm left handed but I've worn my messenger bag "right handed" all my life, since well before ACRNM was a part of it.

 

 

–I am aware of the traditional placket orientation, however I always thought that acronym is breaking those old pattern habits (hooded shortsleeve blazer, no hood gtx jacket, no zip gtx jacket, short sleeve gtx jacket, back zip jacket)

Yeah they break old patterns but not without a reason. The placket orientation that we use today is 100% arbitrary. In almost all scenarios it makes no difference whether it's left or right. If Acrnm were to change it for the sake breaking patterns it would only be for pattern-breaking's sake, which is not something they do.

 

I don't think anyone here is trying to suggest that there isn't interest in a left-handed interops system or that your desires are unmerited. They're just explaining that considering the changes necessary and the scope of what Acronym produces, it's infeasible for them to produce such a jacket.

[CARLOOA]

 

 

Fantastic write up and analysis SuE, kudos. I'm left handed but I've worn my messenger bag "right handed" all my life, since well before ACRNM was a part of it.

 

 

Yeah they break old patterns but not without a reason. The placket orientation that we use today is 100% arbitrary. In almost all scenarios it makes no difference whether it's left or right. If Acrnm were to change it for the sake breaking patterns it would only be for pattern-breaking's sake, which is not something they do.

 

I don't think anyone here is trying to suggest that there isn't interest in a left-handed interops system or that your desires are unmerited. They're just explaining that considering the changes necessary and the scope of what Acronym produces, it's infeasible for them to produce such a jacket.

Bruh, weapons and armor. Unisex stuff will get tagged with customs differently depending on placket as well. Also, like what 9–10% of the world is left handed? This percentage vitiates economies of scale for tooling/patterning/etc. 

[Voyager]

So, here is a really easy way to explain this for retailers of ACR GT jackets since they're the largest customs hit. It is basically trying to get the jacket properly classified. Here's some boilerplate for you fellow f®iends with duty troubles. This is attempting to frame the classification as 6201.99.8030 @ 4.2%.

6201 (jacket) 99 (performance recreational outerwear of other textiles) 8030 (subject to other textile restraints because its nylon faced) 

 

Holy shit CARLOOA you saved me nearly $300 in duties on my J56. Just a few minutes on the phone with UPS after being notified that duties were due on the package and my duties were lowered from $322.68 to $48.26.

U.S. customers of JXX-GT jackets take note:

UPS Brokerage accounting department 866-493-7140. This is the first number I called. I explained to them that my jacket that's being delivered today isn't classified as specifically as it should be and as a result the duties are set too high. The classification the shipper (Acronym) gave customs was 6203.33.2010. They told me I'd have to speak directly with the agent that's in charge of my package. His department is in the Dallas office. They gave me that direct number as well:

UPS Shipping and logistics Dallas office - 972-304-6978. I called this number and got to speak to my agent. I gave him the specific classification 6201.99.8030 I got from CARLOOA's post. I could hear him looking some stuff up and finally he said "oh yeah. That's a viable classification for sure." Gave me my updated total and then gave me the phone number of the people at UPS that take your money to pay duties over the phone.

UPS bill pay - 803-502-2525. Call these people and pay your lowered duties.

 

Thanks again CARLOOA. 

[shoreman]

That's great to hear. And yet, more than a bit discouraging to see how much I've probably thrown away because I didn't know any better (read: too lazy to look into).

Edited November 14, 2016 by TresUnCool

[KoreoKid]

I'm your size 5'10, 150lbs, and went with an M. It fits slightly roomy, but I don't think I would've liked an S.

Shitty fit pic, but you get the idea:

Thanks for the help man. I think I actually might go for the medium. I like the fit. If there any any clearer fits, that would be cool too (y)

And thanks to you to voyager

Edited November 14, 2016 by KoreoKid

[freecat]

Just a quick feedback as I tried the J58-WS and J56-GT last time.

 

J58-WS. Very very soft innermaterial, feels very very warm, moreso inside of a shop. I tried a M as I'm usually between and medium and small (185cm 73kg), and found the arms to be very short, as in, too short. Great insulation piece I would say, but didn't feel special enough imo.

 

On the other hand I really like the J56-GT. I thought it looked a bit underwhelming on the pictures, but it does have a lot more character irl, and feels like a well crafter modern take on the field jacket. Fit was perfect and flattering. Good balance or interesting details and functionality without going overboard. 

Edited November 14, 2016 by freecat

[CARLOOA]

Holy shit CARLOOA you saved me nearly $300 in duties on my J56. Just a few minutes on the phone with UPS after being notified that duties were due on the package and my duties were lowered from $322.68 to $48.26.

U.S. customers of JXX-GT jackets take note:

UPS Brokerage accounting department 866-493-7140. This is the first number I called. I explained to them that my jacket that's being delivered today isn't classified as specifically as it should be and as a result the duties are set too high. The classification the shipper (Acronym) gave customs was 6203.33.2010. They told me I'd have to speak directly with the agent that's in charge of my package. His department is in the Dallas office. They gave me that direct number as well:

UPS Shipping and logistics Dallas office - 972-304-6978. I called this number and got to speak to my agent. I gave him the specific classification 6201.99.8030 I got from CARLOOA's post. I could hear him looking some stuff up and finally he said "oh yeah. That's a viable classification for sure." Gave me my updated total and then gave me the phone number of the people at UPS that take your money to pay duties over the phone.

UPS bill pay - 803-502-2525. Call these people and pay your lowered duties.

 

Thanks again CARLOOA. 

I am glad to save other ACR heads some $!

[nodre]

I am glad to save other ACR heads some $!

 

why doesn't acr have this figured out? paid $330 cod for my already $1200 j1a-gt.  can i call after the fact and perhaps get some of that money back? 

[CARLOOA]

why doesn't acr have this figured out? paid $330 cod for my already $1200 j1a-gt.  can i call after the fact and perhaps get some of that money back?

It's your duty as importer. As a customer service it'd be nice but the legal responsibility is yours. The only people getting loot of this is the Federal government. Despite this tariffs account for only 1–1.3% of gross revenues. This will go to you in the form of services. But in all seriousness, ACRNM should really put WATERPROOF SYNTHETIC/WATER RESISTANT COTTON on their exports for our sake.

[junkie_dolphin]

Does anyone have the point-to-point shoulder measurements for the J1A-GT in size medium? I'm not sure what size I should order. The J58-WS fit me a little tight through the chest, but was properly sized everywhere else—if the J1A is sized to accommodate a liner I should be good with a medium, right? Or should I size up? I'm 6'1", 170lb.

[piece keeper]

Does anyone have the point-to-point shoulder measurements for the J1A-GT in size medium? I'm not sure what size I should order. The J58-WS fit me a little tight through the chest, but was properly sized everywhere else—if the J1A is sized to accommodate a liner I should be good with a medium, right? Or should I size up? I'm 6'1", 170lb.

 

acrnm.com has measurements, and yes the J1A-GT is cut to accommodate the liner so you don't need to size up.

[nodre]

It's your duty as importer. As a customer service it'd be nice but the legal responsibility is yours. The only people getting loot of this is the Federal government. Despite this tariffs account for only 1–1.3% of gross revenues. This will go to you in the form of services. But in all seriousness, ACRNM should really put WATERPROOF SYNTHETIC/WATER RESISTANT COTTON on their exports for our sake.

 

They really should have something place to explain and prepare buyers for this.. not just some page on the website; a disclaimer with every purchase..

[JoseRizal]

Holy shit CARLOOA you saved me nearly $300 in duties on my J56. Just a few minutes on the phone with UPS after being notified that duties were due on the package and my duties were lowered from $322.68 to $48.26.

U.S. customers of JXX-GT jackets take note:

UPS Brokerage accounting department 866-493-7140. This is the first number I called. I explained to them that my jacket that's being delivered today isn't classified as specifically as it should be and as a result the duties are set too high. The classification the shipper (Acronym) gave customs was 6203.33.2010. They told me I'd have to speak directly with the agent that's in charge of my package. His department is in the Dallas office. They gave me that direct number as well:

UPS Shipping and logistics Dallas office - 972-304-6978. I called this number and got to speak to my agent. I gave him the specific classification 6201.99.8030 I got from CARLOOA's post. I could hear him looking some stuff up and finally he said "oh yeah. That's a viable classification for sure." Gave me my updated total and then gave me the phone number of the people at UPS that take your money to pay duties over the phone.

UPS bill pay - 803-502-2525. Call these people and pay your lowered duties.

 

Thanks again CARLOOA.

Will this work on fellow Canadians as well? Any experience from Canada? Thanks

[gamo]

They really should have something place to explain and prepare buyers for this.. not just some page on the website; a disclaimer with every purchase..

 

Lmao a disclaimer with every purchase? This isn't enough for you?

 

It's pretty much common knowledge by now that sellers can't be held responsible for import tax & duties. You're the one that should figure it out and prepare for this, not them.

[robbatussin]

Lmao a disclaimer with every purchase? This isn't enough for you?

 

It's pretty much common knowledge by now that sellers can't be held responsible for import tax & duties. You're the one that should figure it out and prepare for this, not them.

 

But there is a disclaimer with every purchase:

 

[danii]

regarding canadian orders: l have not much info about it but there is some import/export treaty going on with eu/canada about customs free trade. not sure if its already active, but it was in the news that some eu country signed it.

[CARLOOA]

Will this work on fellow Canadians as well? Any experience from Canada? Thanks

Sorry man, just taking a cursory look at your rates there are no real preferences—almost all applicable HS (6201.XX.) codes are at 17–18% for import into Canada. 

Y'all Canucks need to work on that hard-power projection for those lower tariff rates, export "democracy" a little more. 

[CARLOOA]

regarding canadian orders: l have not much info about it but there is some import/export treaty going on with eu/canada about customs free trade. not sure if its already active, but it was in the news that some eu country signed it.

CETA has a full phase out of tariffs on consumer goods from Canada to the EU and into Canada from EU by 7 years—so 2024.

[Sypron]

Bruh, weapons and armor. Unisex stuff will get tagged with customs differently depending on placket as well. Also, like what 9–10% of the world is left handed? This percentage vitiates economies of scale for tooling/patterning/etc. 

 

Roughly 1 in 10 people are left handed but that doesn't mean 1 in 10 people wear their messenger bags reversed.

 

Many left-handed people, myself included, use most asymmetric goods in their right-handed configuration because it's easier than not.

[Xu Jianfeng]

some quick notes for models i really enjoy these days,hope it might help some when considering these:

J1A-LP:I sold mine size L and instantly regret the decision.Find myself a size s,to make a more tts fit.Basicly J1A is a roomy shell,im 180cm and 70kg,in s i could still rock some acr's heavy polartech shell say P-C1 from old times. Thinking i choose it mainly for loro piana material,and it's well discussed in the history pages:super soft,might be high tone color,but in daily life,it shines just in a proper way according to my own understanding. I am asking it as waterproof as GT,but it still could hold in rainy days well.

J54-LP:If you had chance to this holy moly,jusy go small than your regualr size.This thing is for Don,kind reminds me of Yohji's late 1990's style,pockets seems like big from pics,but actually they are not so roomy,your may call them for good looking only, Aslo,unbleveble warm,even for its doeskin,im in around 0°c in Beijing,only with a dress linen shirt,not a chill feeling,sometimes even sweating.Zippers tab is bit annoying,for the reason of the softness of jacket,hard to pull and zip up. This is absolutely kind of ultimate parka you should investment,but might more good for club,not for field trip

CH-J31:A super low profile model,almost a real all-seasons jacket.Super windproof,super warm for its ch Energear threatment.I mainly wear it as a normal jacket,say turning the kimono pattern off.This one is TTS,considering its low trading frecrency,if you are considering some serious biker jacket or cool liner,this is good.

S-J14:Too cool to be William Gibson? S-J14 is a proper workers'jacket from my experience.The pockets are designed well for access,also 3a-sr1 works great under this super wide jacket shape.It's the thin version ETA proof,at least it is not as warm as j11 or p1ts-s.

J45M-BW:hell yeah,you name it.This monster is ideal for cold areas,luckly Beijing is cold.M means Modified,however i think ACR do invest huge time adding details.Not say earphone magnet,logo tape,jacketsling,also duotone sleeves,zippers on the liner,adjust tab on the bottom,extra buttons to attach the liner.This this should be fine under -15 C.

GT-J16:im almost a Gore hater,but may not for mapping mixture provided by Gore. The material feels soft inside and shape is super standy outside.You should up one size for your normal size,comparing to the SS-J16 version(TTS).Thinking ACR nowdays would not using these materials,mainly for cost(look at these latest pro shells,sky!)

J57TS-SS:This is fine for office dressing,actually.I havent loaded ts modualrs yet to keep the whold black going on.Im not a head for bomber jacket,actually it is my first bomber,fit TTS,also it leaves room for you to layering,say some warm hoody. i may mainly wear it with p24a raf in the future as a daily outfit.Never being too army,nor too casual.

J43A-GT:i passed this.I tried my best to feel and use latest pro shell again,but the smell and hard touch keep me from it.Also for design,it is still not as good as GT-J5A in my opinion.J43A is more rick owens style or so.This jacket is nice made and super aggressive in all,good for young boys,not for 30s Also,you may go TTS for your most proper fitting.

P24A-S:I go for raf.ETA has a crazy disadvantage that it faded like hell,say it stone wash if you have no idea what it is.Sadly the size is absolutely TTS or down one for your normal fit.Also,this pants fit more like a traditioanl BDU,not so tech like P20 would i say.Good choice for cold days too carry all your belongings,EDC or so.

P23TS-CH:This is a good combo.If you know P10 and P17 well,you may use P23 to replace them when your want to keep it simple.Also TS works well,webbing kind soft,same as the J57,but pouches could hold firm when you moving,Also you may try is the WK3 adaptor to carry more.

Edited October 5, 2017 by Xu Jianfeng

[CARLOOA]

Roughly 1 in 10 people are left handed but that doesn't mean 1 in 10 people wear their messenger bags reversed.

 

Many left-handed people, myself included, use most asymmetric goods in their right-handed configuration because it's easier than not.

I was being somewhat hyperbolic—just pointing out that it isn't economically optimal to flip all their patterning.

[CARLOOA]

Got my J58-WS and P24A-S in the yesterday; quick take:

J58-WS:

Fit:

First impressions

 

The jacket is quite slim but actually less constricting than a Veilance Mionn IS in M—I think it's chest and shoulder patterning and the fabric used. 

Features:

 

Insulator integration:

 

I have both a J53TS-GT and the recent J1A-GT iteration they integrate surprisingly well. On that note, the J53 is slimmer through the arms and shoulders resulting in more pronounced volume. Let me be clear: while the J58 adds volume, the addition is not restrictive and I'm a 40(us)/50(it). The J1A is perceptibly more full through the arms and shoulders. The pocket integration is cool too even though the vertical chest pocket overlaps with the vent but isn't accessible unless through the main closure.

Standalone features:

 

So, this is a big zipper. Like, just a hair under comically big. I like it though... it adds character. I don't know if this is an intentional features but the snap loops to secure the shell work for some gloves with lanyards/leashes. The pocketing is also nice, I really like the angled stomach pocket, it's actually really nice for reaching across—better than the vertical Napoleon pocket.

 

Fabric and finish

 

Nothing super big to note, the face fabric is that beautiful matte nylon with a soft interior fabric as well. Insulation seems adequate to lower temperatures but I do not know the actual fill weight. Only minor issue was the piping on the bottom near the zipper has a rough edge. Easily fixed, otherwise superb as always.

P24A-S
 

First impressions

 

Now that i have these, they're my favorite BDU-style cargo. They're most similar to the SI:SP comfort cargo with the loose top block and heavy taper. They forgo the stretch for more articulation. I would say the sizing is consistent with the 50(it) in SISP. The graduated knee articulation is beautiful and maintains a  shape that is absent from other looser pants.

 

Features: 

 

Pocketing

 

The pocketing is interesting. Visually, I love the detached entry cargo pockets and the angle. These will accommodate larger phones and probably anything in daily life. The raid pockets can fit a lot of random stuff—not normal-size Glock magazines though. FYI: a iphone plus will not fit in the raid pockets or phone pockets.

 

Fabric and finish

 

Nothing super big to note. Color is consistent with previous RAF Green fabric.

Edited November 15, 2016 by CARLOOA

[RapGameTaylorSwift]

I also received my J58-WS this week but I'm not fully sold on the design. As far as warmth goes, the insulation seems relatively warm but won't know until I test it in the field. The seams and articulation are beautiful as always. I also love how the zipper around the collar is hidden from view unless zipped into a shell.

My least favorite feature of the jacket is the thin elastic band on the bottom. This makes it extremely tight at the waist (and I am a 30 waist with a M jacket) almost to the point where the zipper starts riding up and curling inward. I would have much preferred a speedlock shock cord hem like the J1A has. If you wear the J58-WS unzipped, the liner also seems to have excess fabric that sticks out on the back side. Kind of like it'd bubbling out. Like Carlooa, my J58 also has a rough edge to the left of the zipper. How did you get rid of that Carlooa?

The liner fits decently well under my J1A but leaves little room for any extra layering. I'll definitely be keeping the liner mostly for warmth purposes but I don't plan on wearing the jacket on its own like I originally intended.

[capnpyro]

J58-WS, just got it this morning, quick impression also is that the bottom elastic band is really aggressive. If the jacket is unzipped it almost cinches itself in the back and zipped I get the same curl up as TSwift. I agree a speedlock cord would of been a better fit but I'll reserve judgement until I wear it for a while. Also was surprised that none of the zips are waterproof taped, for some reason in the photos I thought the all side zips were. It's also a very slim fitting jacket, I'm 5'10 with broad shoulders and push it to the max when it's zipped up, luckily it's not  restrictive at all. 

 

Edit: VVV I agree they wouldn't serve a purpose besides looking cool (which is kind of a purpose), just in the photos that's how the lighting looked to me VVV

Edited November 15, 2016 by capnpyro

[piece keeper]

J58-WS, just got it this morning, quick impression also is that the bottom elastic band is really aggressive. If the jacket is unzipped it almost cinches itself in the back and zipped I get the same curl up as TSwift. I agree a speedlock cord would of been a better fit but I'll reserve judgement until I wear it for a while. Also was surprised that none of the zips are waterproof taped, for some reason in the photos I thought the all side zips were. It's also a very slim fitting jacket, I'm 5'10 with broad shoulders and push it to the max when it's zipped up, luckily it's not  restrictive at all. 

 

Non-waterproof zippers makes complete sense for an insulator since they're meant to be worn underneath shells so they shouldn't see too much water in the first place.  Probably saves a good amount of money as well...the prices of these insulators are quite high already and I had trouble stomaching them--with waterproof zippers I'm sure they'd add at least $100 to the price.  Glad they didn't go that route!

[RemarkableArmor]

Finally got my order through too and pretty much echo the views as per above. I'm in love with the P24A fit. For some reason I thought these were gonna come up massive as people were talking about sizing down etc but I just got my usual size and consistent as ever for me. I'll be wearing these all the time and waiting for future material variations (wish I had got the DS badly)

Only additional thing was the J56. I had a feeling I might send this back as I have so many black goretex hardshells now but I really like the look of this without the hood either buttoned up or popped open a bit like a classic M-65. The hood makes it look a bit generic for me.

Pretty pleased all round.

[CARLOOA]

I also received my J58-WS this week but I'm not fully sold on the design. As far as warmth goes, the insulation seems relatively warm but won't know until I test it in the field. The seams and articulation are beautiful as always. I also love how the zipper around the collar is hidden from view unless zipped into a shell.

My least favorite feature of the jacket is the thin elastic band on the bottom. This makes it extremely tight at the waist (and I am a 30 waist with a M jacket) almost to the point where the zipper starts riding up and curling inward. I would have much preferred a speedlock shock cord hem like the J1A has. If you wear the J58-WS unzipped, the liner also seems to have excess fabric that sticks out on the back side. Kind of like it'd bubbling out. Like Carlooa, my J58 also has a rough edge to the left of the zipper. How did you get rid of that Carlooa?

The liner fits decently well under my J1A but leaves little room for any extra layering. I'll definitely be keeping the liner mostly for warmth purposes but I don't plan on wearing the jacket on its own like I originally intended.

For rough edges on technical fabrics I used a soldering iron and just press it afterwards so as to smooth the edges. You can probably accomplish the same by heating any metal utensil with a lighter.

 

J58-WS, just got it this morning, quick impression also is that the bottom elastic band is really aggressive. If the jacket is unzipped it almost cinches itself in the back and zipped I get the same curl up as TSwift. I agree a speedlock cord would of been a better fit but I'll reserve judgement until I wear it for a while. Also was surprised that none of the zips are waterproof taped, for some reason in the photos I thought the all side zips were. It's also a very slim fitting jacket, I'm 5'10 with broad shoulders and push it to the max when it's zipped up, luckily it's not  restrictive at all. 

I might be reaching here but I think the hem produces that overhang of the fabric on the product pictures. I also think that the aggressive elastication keeps air penetration to a minimum. I think that the alternative would've made the product super similar to the J50.

[RapGameTaylorSwift]

For rough edges on technical fabrics I used a soldering iron and just press it afterwards so as to smooth the edges. You can probably accomplish the same by heating any metal utensil with a lighter.

Thanks I'll give it a shot.

 

I also think that the aggressive elastication keeps air penetration to a minimum. I think that the alternative would've made the product super similar to the J50.

That was my theory as well that the elastic was intentional to keep your body as insulated as possible. However, I don't think making a similar insulator to the J50 is necessarily a bad thing. Especially when they are no longer selling a WS version of the J-50.

[cktenders]

We need fit pics of the p24's dudes!

 

P24A-S

 

First impressions

 

Now that i have these, they're my favorite BDU-style cargo. They're most similar to the SI:SP comfort cargo with the loose top block and heavy taper. They forgo the stretch for more articulation. I would say the sizing is consistent with the 50(it) in SISP. The graduated knee articulation is beautiful and maintains a  shape that is absent from other looser pants.

 

Features: 

 

Pocketing

 

The pocketing is interesting. Visually, I love the detached entry cargo pockets and the angle. These will accommodate larger phones and probably anything in daily life. The raid pockets can fit a lot of random stuff—not normal-size Glock magazines though. FYI: a iphone plus will not fit in the raid pockets or phone pockets.

 

Fabric and finish

 

Nothing super big to note. Color is consistent with previous RAF Green fabric.

 

 

Finally got my order through too and pretty much echo the views as per above. I'm in love with the P24A fit. For some reason I thought these were gonna come up massive as people were talking about sizing down etc but I just got my usual size and consistent as ever for me. I'll be wearing these all the time and waiting for future material variations (wish I had got the DS badly)

Only additional thing was the J56. I had a feeling I might send this back as I have so many black goretex hardshells now but I really like the look of this without the hood either buttoned up or popped open a bit like a classic M-65. The hood makes it look a bit generic for me.

Pretty pleased all round.

 

P24A-S:I go for raf.ETA has a crazy disadvantage that it faded like hell,say it stone wash if you have no idea what it is.(to be continued)

Edited November 16, 2016 by cktenders

[coldknife]

Anybody got any experience washing their Acronym x Nemen J28-K jackets? Should I just use a tech wash, as per usual?