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About junkie_dolphin

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  1. arcteryx veilance

    Conroy said they were working on it years ago, but that was just before he left. Sounds like his return has coincided with a revival in the project.
  2. arcteryx veilance

    Hearing some talk that Veilance is having another go at a women's line. Big if true.
  3. arcteryx veilance

    Black and Dark Navy this time around.
  4. arcteryx veilance

    No new shirts planned for FW18. Just the Operand LS returning; they're not bringing back the Haedn Overshirt, last I heard. Lots of other cool things coming FW18 though, so I'm not mad.
  5. Urban Techwear

    The desire to absolve Acronym of accusations of orientalism ultimately prevents the article from seeing clearly what's going on here. There was never some sort of "pure" techwear to "corrupt" with asian fetishism or what-have-you. "Techwear" as a fashion trend begins and ends with the aesthetic that Acronym began pushing a few years back. Yes, many of these things existed before then—Osti, Vexed Generation, lots of outdoor clothing companies like Arc'teryx, materially experimental fashion designers, etc.—but it's being discussed on Grailed right now because of the Acronym/techninja aesthetic. r/techwearclothing barely goes near stuff that doesn't fit into that slouchy aesthetic—even Veilance is often ignored if it doesn't fit into that look. Acronym is pretty clear about this: they are just as concerned with aesthetics as with function. There is no "pure aesthetic of functionality." From where did Acronym get its aesthetic? Some asian sources, sure—BLAME!, Akira, etc.—but from where did those sources get their aesthetics? From the same people that influenced "western cyberpunk": Metal Hurlant, largely, and its aesthetic legacy (which includes Star Wars, by the way, which heavily influenced Otomo)—and we all know how much the French loved their orientalism. This is a problem you run into when looking at the history of orientalism in Asia (I'm thinking specifically of Japan): for example, Japan becomes westernized rapidly in the latter half of the 19th century, then "rediscovers" its buried cultural legacy in the earlier part of the 20th century—but it is now so westernized that its academics cannot help but see Japan's history through a western lens. And so you get "oriental orientalism"—Japanese scholars fetishizing their own past as something alien and wondrous. Does Errolson's partial-Chinese heritage somehow protect him from accusations of cultural appropriation or orientalism? The guy grew up in Canada and lives in Berlin, and in any case it's not as though all east asians are the same. To be clear, I think the whole line of critique is flawed—but I also think that, if you're going to go there, it's not acceptable to give your favourite designers a pass based on their (vaguely-defined) race.
  6. Urban Techwear

    Yikes, I missed that one on the first read-though. Jesus... I mean, I can understand how you could come to that conclusion, reading through the literature and the hype-talk. Conroy tended to keep out of the spotlight, and in general I think Veilance has been much more reluctant to present a single person as a figurehead. Even during the big press thing that happened back when they did the pop-up store, they sort of split the interviews between Taka and Lars... I've heard from people closer to the project that basically Errolson helped with some preliminary stuff, but he didn't have much (if any) input into the products themselves. They were more interested in the problem of marketing technical garments as menswear, so they consulted with him on that. Weirdly, most of the people who worked on that initial Veilance season have moved on (one of them is actually a lead designer at Aritzia now).
  7. Urban Techwear

  8. arcteryx veilance

    No changes, just different colours.
  9. arcteryx veilance

    There’ll be a softshell pant with four-way stretch in fw18, to match the Isogon MX (which was posted earlier this thread). More excited for that than any other pant coming from Veilance, since I love my Outlier OG Leans so much.
  10. arcteryx veilance

    Those things are still floating around all over. I know a guy who managed to customer request one at an Arc'teryx store. It's true though, they'll be getting a proper release FW 2018. It was always his baby. It'd be great to see him pick up where he left off—not that I didn't like what Lars brought to the table.
  11. arcteryx veilance

    Word on the street is Conroy's back on Veilance. Big if true.
  12. Urban Techwear

    That specific jacket is from Arc'teryx's infamous "24" line—their urban stuff from mainline, sort of the poor man's Veilance—which is almost always garbage. Let's just say I know a few people who would be in a position to accurately judge the rate of failure of these pieces. That jacket ("shacket") and the Therme/Patera parkas have (I'm told) more problems than virtually any other garment currently sold by the brand. It's Voronoi AR-level failure, except that the Voronoi's are produced in much more limited quantities, so... That being said, if you're looking for a nice clean down jacket, there'll be one coming in Veilance in FW18.
  13. arcteryx veilance

    I've personally heard from customer service that at least ten failed Voronoi ARs have been sent to the studio for analysis, at the request of said studio. They're looking into it, but it probably won't be addressed till FW19.
  14. Urban Techwear

    WARNING WARNING DANGER DANGER AVOID AT ALL COSTS Those seams leak down like nobody's business. 0/10 would not fuck.
  15. Acronym.

    Thing is, I agree; I certainly wouldn't try to sell a bag so obviously indebted to someone else's design. But you can't honestly tell me that you think your own designs are so much further from Errolson's that you're in any position to talk about "originality." I'm sure you'll point to details and say "look, Acronym never did this specific thing..." —well yeah, fair enough dude, so it's not quite a fake... but if you zoom out it's still very obviously aping the Acronym aesthetic. Personally, I have no issue with that—do what makes you happy—but don't lecture people on originality: