The Flat Head

[501XX4EVER]

This may be a stupid question, but does Flat Head use this type of elaborate, multi-site production process for all the items it produces, eg shirts and jackets, or is it just for the jeans?

[Kyle@TFH]

I think it's just for the jeans, our other stuff is made in places more akin to conventional factories. However, from the pics I've seen of where our shirts are made, it looks like a similar house-factory setup; however, it's probably all done in one place rather than multiple locations.

[beeetus]

What cut is that Pronto colab? Loving the arcs. 

[501XX4EVER]

I think it's just for the jeans, our other stuff is made in places more akin to conventional factories. However, from the pics I've seen of where our shirts are made, it looks like a similar house-factory setup; however, it's probably all done in one place rather than multiple locations.

 

OK, cool, thanks for the information.

[alexx1976]

great info and pics KYLE-THX

[Kyle@TFH]

And now for the exciting conclusion!

 

Part Four: The Finishing Touch

 

 

Our last stop took us to the biggest factory since leaving the office, which had a whopping five employees working over a tatami floor. This is where Flat Head’s jeans receive their finishing touches – the hems are chainstitched here, and the belt loops are fully sewn to the jeans. This is also where hardware is attached – the copper rivets and iron buttons that age along with Flat Head’s denim.

 

 

Here we see one of the ladies furiously chainstitching a pair of our jeans on everyone’s favorite Union Special machine.

 

 

Here you can see the belt loop attachment in progress. This machine performs the thick bar stitch that fastens the belt loops to a pair of jeans, but the belt loops still need to be properly placed by hand.

 

 

 

Next we see our button hole machine. Flat Head uses a technique called ato-mesu in Japanese, which refers to the way our button holes are sewn. The conventional way that’s found on most jeans involves punching the hole, then sewing the eyelet around it. However, Flat Head’s machine sews the keyhole-shaped eyelet first, then punches the hole inside of it. The extra denim inside the eyelet actually reinforces the hole and makes it stronger than ones made the conventional way. This is why you might see loose white threads around the button holes on a new pair of our jeans.

 

This company doesn’t just sew our jeans, they do our denim shirts and jackets, and some other garments as well (a good general rule is that if an item’s code consists of four numbers, it was probably made here.) I caught a glimpse of them putting the final touches on some of our denim western shirts. This is where they punch the holes, then fix the snap buttons to the shirt.

 

 

 

After this stage, Flat Head’s jeans and other garments travel back to the main office, where they are quality-checked and receive the final touches, like the flasher, ironing, and folding.

 

So that’s how Flat Head’s jeans are made! Hopefully in the near future, I’ll get opportunities to visit the places where shirts are sewn and fabrics are woven.

 

 

 

[BlackPig]

Thanks for sharing.  Very informative.  Makes me want a pair of Flat Head.

[scmah174]

shameless plug for TFH shirts I have up in the Marketplace. 

all awesome, excellent condition.

thanks in advance for any interest.

 

 

 

 

FS: The Flathead, Ironheart shirts - supermarket - superfuture

Edited June 7, 2013 by scmah174

[xchen]

Kyle, awesome info coming from you lately. You're doing a great job representing TFH...

[Do7]

what is the tightest TFH cuts?

[kiya]

what is the tightest TFH cuts?

 

SE05BSP and 3002.

[Kyle@TFH]

The upcoming 5002 is even tighter.  They gave me a sample of these in size 32, they're at least 1 cm tighter through the whole leg compared to my BSPs and 4002s.  But if you sized up (and didn't tumble dry; the same I received was, unfortunately) then it would probably be a similar fit.

[maikeru320]

Great posts Kyle, they also serve as excellent marketing material for TFH.

I've always been interested in how jeans are actually made in Japan.

Would you know when is starch applied to the jeans during the manufacturing process?

[Kyle@TFH]

If FH jeans are starched it would be during the final ironing after the flasher is applied at the sewing company HQ.  But I'm not sure if they are; and since unlike sanforized jeans FH needs a wash/soak before wearing, it'll all come out anyway.

[Maynard Friedman]

I thought the starch was applied to the finished woven cloth before any cutting had taken place as it is easier to cut and work with stiffer cloth than something soft, therefore it's possibly done by the mill itself.

Edited May 31, 2013 by Maynard Friedman

[maikeru320]

If FH jeans are starched it would be during the final ironing after the flasher is applied at the sewing company HQ.  But I'm not sure if they are; and since unlike sanforized jeans FH needs a wash/soak before wearing, it'll all come out anyway.

You are indeed always here to answer questions.

I am all for taking out the maximum shrinkage before wearing a pair of raw denim but I've always been intrigued by how hard unwashed jeans are and whether they were starched before or after they are sewn together.

Would you be able to find out more about the starching process from the good people at THF?

Hopefully take some pics too? Really appreciate it!

[beautiful_FrEaK]

I'm with Maynard on this one. Why should they starch the finished jeans and for what purpose? The explanation Maynard gave you is the one I also read/heard before.

[maikeru320]

There is really no need to take sides here b_F...

I've also read somewhere that starch was used as a protection during transportation, to prevent unintentional shrinkage or damages etc. maybe?

Just can't imagine it to be a pleasant experience sewing together a pair of heavily starched 21oz Samurai for example.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

I'm not taking sides just supporting his (in my opinion right) explanation

 

edit: adding starch to protect the clothes for getting dirty is something cowbyos did. So that's also right

Edited May 31, 2013 by beautiful_FrEaK

[BukkakeKing]

letting go my BSP size 28 in the market section if someone is interested !!! 

great pair, still tons of life left in them !

[itsbenhere]

After about a month of frustration I have 3 true loopwheeled Flat head shirts and the red western on their way.  Very excited, I'm eager to feel any differences in the tees compared to the THC series

[Kyle@TFH]

You guys may be right about the starching, for some reason I was thinking of starch as in stuff you use when ironing clothes.  But from when I saw the jeans being made the denim seemed pretty loose and flexible, and not as hard as a fresh pair of FH jeans.  I'll ask about it next week.

 

What's the red Western shirt Ben?  I got a U-neck loopwheeled T-shirt last week and while the fabric feels nice, I still don't like it as much as the THC fabric.  Still, it's nice to have some variety.

[itsbenhere]

This one: http://www.selfedge.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=68&products_id=923&zenid=01126158b0dce18f11e5d2c42f1fe25a

Even though I love westerns this will actually be the only one in my wardrobe. I had to scoop it up as the color looks great and I believe it'll feel nice and soft. Also, Flat Head's shirts are the only ones that consistently have a length that I feel comfortable with.

Random question... Does Flat Head have little sub-brands (Glory Park, Black Mint, etc) as a justification for a slightly different image? They're all extremely similar but to me it seems like they all cover a very minutely different niche of old Americana

[maikeru320]

You guys may be right about the starching, for some reason I was thinking of starch as in stuff you use when ironing clothes.  But from when I saw the jeans being made the denim seemed pretty loose and flexible, and not as hard as a fresh pair of FH jeans.  I'll ask about it next week.

 

 

That's exactly what I meant, the jeans in your photos don't look as stiff as finished products, i.e. they don't look like they can "stand" on their own, so something must have been applied to them afterwards to "harden" them?

[sbasinger]

I'm 6'1", 215lbs, with a 48" chest, 18" arms, and a 34" waist. Do I have any chance of fitting into any Flat Head shirts?

[Kyle@TFH]

Unfortunately, I don't think Flat Head makes anything up to a 48" chest.

[demonator]

buddy 18 inch arms are you sure?

[demonator]

i think their biggest sizes are the regular sized ones which a 44 chest will go up to a 461/2 chest

[leyori]

kyle, i just wonder does TFH's loopwheeled Tshirt come with bigger neck hole. it feels like choke me every time i wear it. haha

[S-Town]

That's a huge chest for your height/weight. Are you Chong Li from Bloodsport?