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RESOLUTE by hayashi-san!


dawei69

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  • 1 month later...

I agree with you that the denim on these look pretty flat and boring raw but like you I am waiting to see a pair after some wear before I come to any conclusion about Resolute.

Denime is my favourite denim out of all the brands I've encountered so far. I find it hard to believe that Hayashi would settle for something that is going to end up mediocre after wear.

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The denim is a little bit "flat" and "muffled" from what I can tell (lack of better terminology)....Reminds me a bit of 60's/70's denim that's really marbled although I'm probably completely off base (Paul T can confirm), and I recall Gordon saying that Hayashi-san is more in to this type of denim...

Also, there are a ton of examples of the fading on Hayashi-san's blog:

http://ameblo.jp/resolute-2010/image-10682164526-10811328785.html

http://ameblo.jp/resolute-2010/image-10682164526-10811328788.html

http://ameblo.jp/resolute-2010/image-10674717645-10786238143.html

http://ameblo.jp/resolute-2010/image-10674717645-10786238807.html

http://ameblo.jp/resolute-2010/image-10674717645-10786238144.html

http://ameblo.jp/resolute-2010/image-10674717645-10786238145.html

http://ameblo.jp/resolute-2010/image-10682660473-10813141173.html

http://ameblo.jp/resolute-2010/image-10682660473-10813141749.html

The utra faded pairs up top are manufactured models btw...

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I just realized what I couldn't put my finger on before...the fading properties of the denim reminds me somewhat of STF 501 Levi's! As in, the $40 ones...(Not necessarily a bad thing, and of course we haven't seen a well documented pair on here yet so who knows for sure)

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I think that type of non-contrasting, subtle hue/fading is what most Japanese vintage hobbyists are after...something that more closely resembles vintage Levi's, Lee's, etc. (I certainly find the subtle fading more attractive than high contrast ones)

IMO Hayashi knows what he is doing, and is probably capitalising on the opportunity to make jeans as he want to make them, rather than selling out his soul to the new found hype of high-contrast fades.

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^ Well, you can't really compare repros to repros and comment on which is more authentic that way.

You also have to consider how modern day LVC enthusiasts treat their denim compared to jeans-owners of yesteryears, who most likely didn't give a rat's behind about how their jeans faded.

Keep in mind that most of the pictures displayed are either commerical pre-distressed samples or one with only 3 months of wear...we really need someone to wear these in to find out the potential of the denim.

Hayashi is one of the most important people in the Japanese denim industry, even the bosses of Evisu, Fullcount, etc all defer to him.

He's been around, and done a lot, and I would hesitate to knock his work without observing for a bit longer.

Just got to give Resolute some time to mature, and then we can properly judge how it compares to the Denime of old.

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^ Well, you can't really compare repros to repros and comment on which is more authentic that way.

You also have to consider how modern day LVC enthusiasts treat their denim compared to jeans-owners of yesteryears, who most likely didn't give a rat's behind about how their jeans faded.

THis is an important truth - very few vintage jeans fade in a really high-contrast manner; especially 70s ones. I am interested in the difference between these and Denime - does anyone know what mill he's using?

These look pretty good:

http://en.item.rakuten.com/frisbee/10002890/

These are the 711-94 , I presume the XX, which look like a circa 54 cut.

resolute71194.jpg

Interetingly, these look very lie the LVC Cone 40s denim - which has recently improved, and I like the crinkled look. He seems to be going very much for tough, one-wash jeans. But the colors of the jeans Aho posted seem much more like 70s ones,

But the 66 look like almost a cartoon version of the originals.

THey have that very striped look you see on 70s STF. The twill is much more obvious than on the old LEvi's.

http://en.item.rakuten.com/frisbee/10002876/

resolute66.jpg

That hairiness does look great; they remind you of how kind of rough and ugly those jeans are. But I'm not keen on the pocket shape, it doesn't look at all like the circa 66 Levi's I used to have, or the 169-70 302 the nipper owns. It seems to exaggerate certain features - the hairness of the new denim (really it gets hairier after one soak) and it has a later stock control patch, again just to be different, as well as the all-copper stitching, which arrived very late in the 60s.

So I think it's important to remember that, as with LVC and everything else, this is just an interpretation of a vintage jean - the deigner takes what he likes from one era, and tweaks or exaggerates.

In summary, I think the 66 look much more like a 70s jean, with a hybrid 66-71 pocket shape. As a comparison, here's the deadstock 1969-1971 302 robbie found for the nipper. THese jeans are small, 25 inch waist, but look how the twill line is less pronounced than on the '66', and note they're a darker colour, whereas the 66 are greeny-turquoise, like a 70s jean (which used sulphur in the dye).

lapmain.jpg

bummain.jpg

Look how rough & agricultural some of the stitching is. You don't get that on Japanese repros! Button code is '4'. No internal tags.

interior1.jpg

I think it's terrific that resolute is so distinctive, and goes for a specific vibe but I would love to know more about the philosophy behind it, and why the 66 jeans look (and seem to fade, in aho's photos) like a 1970s jean.

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i own a pair of 711 which is based on the cut of the 50's . And as what LFC mentioned, i noticed the relatively lower rise on these compared to other traditional vintage cut..

I own a pair of lvc 47 and the rise on the 711 is substantially lower than the 47 but not low enough to regard them as ultra modern cut.

And by reading his blog, i am obliged to believe that Resolute is not established to reproduce vintage cut but I think Hayashi wants to produce modern cuts based loosely on the vintage cuts of the past but with the fabric characteristic of the original fabrics.

its like pro-modern cut with original deadstock fabric characteristic

Resolute jeans are perhaps Hayashi's modern interpretation of vintage jeans. As you can see from his blog,Hayashi doesnt dress like miners or railroad workers but he does dress like a modern man of present time with the love of vintage jeans..maybe he is trying to incorporate vintage jeans into his modern 20th century wardrobe..

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