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Fit pics with different ways of buttoning. The jacket feels smaller than the measurements suggest. But I don't plan to layer and wear denim jackets mostly in the warmer months with just a tshirt underneath.

xx4 denim raw and with maybe 10 months of wear. The comparison makes me feel that maybe it’s not as slow fading as I had thought.

Contest jeans in the wash Tender Co. / The Vanishing West / Tezomeya / Hollows / Roy / Russell

lovely @Georg! I'll post pics of my own one of these sometime soon. For now, though, I have a new jeans type, 156, which are coming in to stockists and which I'm really pleased with. they're a significantly higher waist than previous cuts (varies a bit by fabric and size, but my indigo sizer 4 pair is 14.75" front and 18.5" back), and come with X back braces. More to the point, though, they're cut straight, as tailored trousers, rather than open, as jeans. Here's my double indigo broken twill pair, which I've been wearing since September or so: They're based around somewhere between the 132 and 136 cuts, but with a raised waist, and rather than having an angled front and back seam (like jeans), the fronts are cut almost straight on the grain line. This is a cutting angle which works best with suspenders/braces, and is traditional for dress trousers, or early workwear which was basically a heavy version of the same thing. The first Tender jeans, 132, was adapted from British Rail uniform pants, but cut open to wear like jeans. This is going back to the original, in some ways. Here's a fairly clear demonstration of open and closed cutting: Ok they're all diagonal, but you can see the change in angle across the centre seam in type 133 trews: Compared to the almost parallel stripes in 156: The side pockets are cut into the seams, and the yoke remains at the position that it would be for a standard waist pair, so that the extra shape stays in the seat and the raised waist sits above it (if they're worn high- if you wear them low like I mostly do then they fall down a bit but feel like high waisted trousers worn low, which is a really nice, subtly different, effect). The waist band is put on as two separate pieces, with a gap in the middle where the seat panels are just hemmed. This is a less costumey take on the idea of a split back or fishtail back, but done in a mechanised jeans waist way. These come from the new Spring/Summer 2025 production, which is the last fully UK-made Tender collection. More in all this soon, and as it develops, but the plan is to move clothing production and dyeing, and eventually weaving, to our new home in the US. Having said that, I have stock of denim fabric in the UK so for the foreseeable future jeans will continue to be made in the UK. More soon!

Lotta heat on this page. Everyone's lookin good 👍 Lee jacket Wrangler shirt DIY jeans Blundstones

Sorry for the multi post, forgot this one: Some nice light blue hues coming through in certain lights which is always hard to pick up on camera

American Optical, Vintage Levi’s, Colimbo, 3sixteen, Georgia Boot

Sunny but cold enough to get my favorite sleeping bag back out. Inis meain / jackman / Kapital / WMJ / NBx Lost Art made in UK

The Self Edge IMA READ Zine - #3 - SAMURAI Introducing the #3 Self Edge IMA READ Zine featuring SAMURAI. Established in Osaka, Japan in 1997 the brand combines vintage production techniques with modern innovation to create durable, high-quality jeans with unique fades and intricate details. We’ve got rare images and interviews with Samurai founder Tohru Nogami, Japanese denim export specialist Yoshi Yakushiji, and Kiya Babzani of Self Edge. These are full-color printed in Chicago and are available now for free at all six Self Edge locations and can be included in any online order upon request. You may also view the zine on the editorial page of our website: https://www.selfedge.com/index.php?route=selfedge/editorial/readEditorial&editorial_id=969 Production: Oscar Ojeda. Layout & Art: Erik Duran (kirederan). Interviews: Chris Zaldua. Concept & Direction: Kiya Babzani

Ordered when it was released but thanks to a held up in German customs for over 3 weeks, it arrived together with the jeans. 1945 jacket

Post O'alls / Ooe (on the post, ironically) / Belafonte x 2 / @Duke Mantee / Brother Bridge... last week but sshhh don't tell anyone...

This is huge news! Really looking forward to hearing more details when the time comes to share

That post grocery golden hour (featuring peaks of fading)

So it started with Texture. Then Voluminous jeans with texture. Then Heavy voluminous jeans with texture. Then Dark heavy voluminous jeans with texture… anyway you know how it can spiral… I’ll do the Sugar Cane Hawaii post soon for further proof of that 😉 Anyhow these 17oz Samurai S3100VX WW2 model landed today… and they’re ace. They meet the brief perfectly. Great service from Daniel at DC4 in Berlin... and lovely hemming to boot... using actual Samurai thread so it’s all matchy-matchy… I’m going with one big 3-inch fuck-off bucket cuff... no stopping me... 😀

Update on my 132s, they have been washed four times now i believe and worn close to four months. Got bitten by a german shepherd a couple days ago, fortunately not hurt badly but the dog did tear a good hole in the left thigh. You can see how little the indigo has faded compared to the fresh hem scrap i patched it with. In the mountains of Veracruz, super beautiful and not too hot this time of year! Riding south this morning:

It's not until May 2nd that the tariffs on packages under $800 kick in, and that will only be on packages from China. It seems like we still have some time before he hits Japan too.

I’ve got a size 34w s1945a that is too big for me, going to sell for $300 free shipping US continental.

I'm tapping my toes waiting!!

The 1945 jeans are very nice. Same size 34 as b_F with similar measurements (waist, FR, BR, Thigh, Knee, LO, Inseam):

Looking forward to your impressions on the 45 jeans- I haven't caved in yet (have the 42s coming in Bears 2nd delivery) but its tempting for the full tux...

Indeed @Dr_Heech... she was dope!!

One for @Double 0 Soul - I bought this tracksuit top 20+ years ago I think, basically because of its West Ham colours. I rarely wore it and now it belongs to my son, who sports it much better than I ever did. I think it’s from 2003.

Some wild 221s https://www.instagram.com/p/DIJVPTkza3K/?igsh=YTN2ZGo0dHI0dW9u

The bollard looks pretty dope too

Took the WoMs for a walk in nearby Gledhow Valley Woods, a coffee in Chapel Allerton and back again, with my lad Glorious day - blue sky with a nice chill in the air Baby fade coming on... 50s vibes... WoM 5150 / Rototo / Freewheelers special heavyweight sweatshirt / Samurai 21oz 552XX / Converse MiJ from Gee

Old hat, Ooe, Orguiel, WOM, vintage boots.

..and a similar effect at UCLA ..still doesn't detract from the fact that i can't wear blocks of yellow

Vtg corduroy Rose Bowl hat Vtg Selvedge bandana Unif Cardigan Skeleton Key Brewery tee Vtg belt w/ brass buckle Wide cropped selvedge 1960s Frye

Lovely colors, suits you well!

SDA anniversary kakishibu type II, Warehouse cowboy pants, Golden Retriever…

Vintage tie, J Crew, Sugar Cane, OG-107s, Kleman

Yeah - I got a pair from Naoki that arrived at the start of the week. The Okinawa denim was calling me after I reacquainted myself with my MF Ranch Blouse but, after taking a closer look, plumped for the Hawaii for a change and out of curiosity. What great denim. So nice. I was a bit hasty and forgot to get them hemmed so it's heavy double cuffing until I do. I know what you'll say... yes the denim rail is coming under a lot of stress lately... but I am otherwise pretty low-cost 😁

Went to Scotland. Nothing to report

Ooe Yofukuten / Rototo / Tezomeya / Samurai / Converse

‘Feet up Fridays’ .. revisited Going out to all the old heads who remember it.. especially Rivet Head who invented it

Importantly, was the ball spherical or did it have pointy ends? The term ‘soccer’ comes from Oxford-er slang, which was prevalent at Oxford University from about 1875, and is thought to have been borrowed from the slang of Rugby School. Initially spelt ‘asoccer’ (a shortening of ‘association’), it was later reduced to the modern spelling. This form of slang also gave rise to ‘rugger’ for rugby football and the now-archaic ‘footer’ that was also a name for association football. The word ‘soccer’ arrived at its current form in 1895 and was first recorded in 1889 in the earlier form of socca. I’m not sure about ‘fitba’ though… Still, if you’re wearing WoM jeans, then surely its calcio?

Well, I don’t know. We weren’t carrying the ball and running at eachother or throwing it and weren’t smashing into anyone. None of that. We were only using our feet, so I don’t think football makes sense. Not in good ol murican logic anyways.

So, I've looked again into the different types of denim by WH for the years 30-50s. Besides the well known banner (7x7, ca. 13.5/13.75oz) and Memphis cotton denim (6x6, 14.5oz) there are at least three different other ones. 1. The new denim, WWII denim. I think, this was first introduced with the 25th anniversary pair S1001XX (1946) (perhaps earlier?). This denim is not DSB and has an orange selvedge. It's 6.7x6.6, ca. 14oz. And quite coarse. The relatively recent Duck Digger Lot S1003XX (1944 MODEL) (with the flannel pocket bags) is also of that denim. 1946 model: 1944 model: 2. Then there are two DSB. Both have a pink selvedge. I guess, the idea is, that same as the denim has changed by oxidation in the decades of the storage, the selvedge lines have also changed. Same with the tab, which is also pink in some pairs. The suffix (1000XX) seems to indicate DSB. For jackets (2000XX). a) the lighter one 7.5x7.5 ca. 13oz Used for example for the 1953 and 1954 pairs. Also for the Lot.2001XX(2000XX) blanket lined jacket and the 1936 model. b) the heavier one 6.7x6.6, ca. 14oz. The Lot S1003XX(1000XX)【1942MODEL】is made of this denim. 1942 model:

Junior MJF9 asked to borrow a denim jacket to go to her friend's birthday dinner,,, good to see this kinda stuff resonating with the yoof of today 😊 (coincidental CSF snap with OO to boot) CSF / Adidas

American Optical, J Crew, Freewheelers, Coronado Leather, 3sixteen, Chippewa

Caught in the act of catching Old Dog in the act of shenanigans The Vanishing West / Sure Mfg. x TCB / Hollows / Word of Mouth / Russell

Not gonna post my girl's face, but my jeans look good in this picture so I had to share Vintage shirt and vest DIY jeans Good Guys boots Her fit is all vintage

St. John’s Bay corduroy shirt At Last & Co. 147 Converse

Sugar Canes Lot 1947... BNWT... for sale. Size 34. One-wash. Red tab and arcs These are c20 years old, based on OO's M-series guide (towards the bottom of page 1) I acquired them last year for £230 all in. Looking to recoup the same ideally... however shoot me a DM to discuss. Unworn. Reluctant sale. Reason - they are too small for me! Measurements - remember these are one-wash so they will stretch Waist 41cm - this will stretch by about 2cm Inside leg 85cm Front rise 31cm Back rise 42cm Thigh at crotch 33.5cm And a few pics of them out in the wilds of Sheffield...

If i'm right they dropped the price on the 123 about 300euro by yesterday

@rodeo bill that was a very interesting talk but too late vor me so I missed the second half- many thanks for the link!! Hello tender friends, this is a weavers stock shirt made of wool. It has a stain that cannot be removed in the wool wash. I am thinking about dyeing it. Does anyone have experience with this? Any product recommendations? Best Georg

Quick update on my 132D, which are still pretty filthy after their first machine wash in a few months … it’s interesting how different the colour is coming out compared to my previous Tender jeans, all of which were washed biweekly at least throughout their life cycle. These have probably five months of wear now.

2x Type 492 Bench Shirts today, matching pressed buttons = cross-buttoning madness also feat. Achille’s Heel Type 132