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Warehouse jacket is getting ready for another wash now the warm weather has arrived.. I'll update the lifecycle post with a before and after..

Musto Cap in Cairngorm Tweed EG Flak Vest from 2011 MF Mechanics Shirt in Covert Cloth from 2009 £5 Gildan Tee Devi's 46s TMC Railman Boots from 2012 If you're feeling flush.. there is one of these on eBay for £3000 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/405608713453

46's after a hand wash

They deserve the recognition no doubt I think in terms of scalability they'd already had it. They sell out instantly I don't think many sufu members use Instagram but in the past year I've seen a massive spike in "heritage menswear" influencer content. If I see another video explaining what a WWII model is I'm going to gouge my eyes It's annoying to see influencers trying to cash in Hey subscribers! you heard it here first, here's the most niche ultra exclusive rare handmade Japanese Raw Selvedge denim only real purists know about!

rototo / engineered garments / ym factory peaking underneath / at last 147 / skoob

Don't forget.. i had 40,000+ posts over there Im like The Simpsons, if you say enough shit, some of it's bound to come true

Tilley / Okolehao / Tezomeya / Duke / Word of Mouth / Russell

[At least] Two parts to the story, really. On one hand… Of course it's different. When the food influencers blow up the local spot, the folks running the spot have the potential to make a lot more money. That sort of exposure + influx could even be what lets them finally expand into a brick and mortar—which is maybe frustrating for the long-time customer but often great for the community, and most importantly for the folks running the place. Fine, sometimes they'll over-extend and the whole thing will go to shit, but that's going to be a risk either way. Ooe has been so supply-limited for so long that it's really hard to believe generating more interest in their product will generate any more actual work for them. Building more hype doesn't do much other than build more competition among customers. Fine, to be fair: it also probably drives quite a bit more traffic for their retailer partners like S&S, where there's bound to be something cool in stock even when those cherished Ooe jeans aren't, but even if that's a positive for the industry overall, it's not helping Ryo and Hiro directly in the same ways as it might help your homie with the taco truck. The story would be a little different if they were taking the Roy + SE approach of just ratcheting prices higher and higher in order to curb demand and find some sort of real equilibrium, but so far that doesn't seem to be where they're going with this. Who knows? On the other hand, though… This has been my biggest real turn-off from them for years; I know it's come up in this thread before. We can complain all we want about the influencers latching on and blowing up the spot, but in the end, for better or for worse, that's exactly the result Ryo and Hiro are seeking in how they run their own social media. Clearly they've decided it's a net benefit to them & to the community, so who are we to say otherwise?

Warehouse x2 / Resolute / Alden

You were always the harbinger of things to come 00, a canary in the mines! This isn't all that dissimilar to whenever your favorite taco truck or local restaurant gets blown up by food influencers. I've got a bbq spot near our house that I've been going to for years and lately they've been gaining notoriety. I'm happy to see them doing well, but I'm also slightly annoyed that I can't just pop in anymore without waiting in line.

This is mostly just for reference cause I baby these jeans. Dry bones DP-582. Slim fit. I’ve had these for 4 years. Worn very very lightly. I like the fit so I’ve been trying not to fade them but 4 years is still 4 years.

Another variation of the sling bag - this one for @ATWM

Do they deserve the recognition? Absolutely, they make a great product and they're dedicated to their craft. But I selfishly don't want more competition on future releases, they already sell out quickly. Looking back I got my first pair from them 10 years ago which is kind of crazy. I guess when influencers shill something that I've been a fan of for some time it just feels so disingenuous. And don't forget to like, comment and subscribe.

Arket - Denime - Duke - WMJ - Nike

1947 fresh from a hot wash and dryer. Hope to fade them like @Double 0 Soul eventually. Do you still have any of your pairs hanging around?

UES indigo polos

I told y'all this would happen 10yrs ago on DB and nobody took me seriously If i remember rightly @CSL said .. and i quote "of course 00.. loose lips sinks ships" Mr Beast will be giving them away before you know it!

It's tough...You love to see a great niche mom and pop brand get the recognition but also, get off my lawn bandwagoners I liked them first (for at least the last 16 years I might add) 😂

I like the fit of these quite a bit overall, but one thing I’ve found is that the lower rise means I don’t end up wearing button-up shirts much; the proportions just end up feeling off. On one hand it feels like a shame to be so limited, but on the other hand I think the challenge of putting together more outfits that just rely on simple tee shirts has done a lot to help get me out of a sort of slump that I’d been in for the past few months, which is a pretty cool side effect. (In general, I think that the idea of being forced to get a little more creative with what non-jeans clothes items I wear was a strong point in favor of me joining the contest in the first place.) Anyway, for most of this week we had some collaborators and customers in from out of town @ my job, which meant wearing shirts, which meant wearing different jeans. It felt surprisingly good this morning to get back in the usual flow. …feat. Tilley, Okolehao, Tezomeya, Duke, Russell, plus a bonus shot of our first rose of the year

Great Lakes / Rocky Mountain / Union Special / Hollows / The Vanishing West / MOTO

Yea I was speaking more towards small makers - but, I will be honest, I also know that I don’t have the eye for detail that some you all have. I definitely am more inclined to see a whole thing first and sort of leave it at that if I feel it works. Whether it’s the precision of the construction or historical accuracy, these things never really have captured me all that much. My Ooe’s are wonderful, but, and this despite the narrative about them, I don’t really, not in any meaningful or practical sense anyways, find the stitch work better than on pairs of Freewheelers or even my old Raleighs (who I maintain had some damn good jeansmakers if not patterning and design). I’m sure some would disagree with sound reasoning - I’m just saying it hasn’t been material to me for my purposes. I guess this is why I was never totally taken in by Roy - perfection in stitching for jeans, while admirable, just isn’t in concert with how I think of jeans and why I appreciate them. Weird comparison here but if I think of photography it’s like the difference between viewing a sizable print (at appropriate viewing distance) from a camera that capture an image at 50 mp vs 100 mp. The resolving power of the camera (provided a base level of detail, say 24mp) is almost never what makes the picture successful, and if you had the same picture side by side, the 50mp print is going to register exactly the same to almost everyone. Maybe a few can guess correctly, spot a tiny difference - but the viewing experience of the picture is so much more dependent on other factors. So in this sense - the sense of things that appeal to me at least - the comparison to WMJ (or yes Rebuilt or BOT etc) seems apt enough, even if the makers veer a little differently in their visions.

I always remember Crat would shine the shit out of the toe of his brogues to an almost mirror finish.. then go trout fishing in them.. someone on the forum commented.. "why on earth would you go fishing in formal shoes?!" and he replied.. "that's what they were designed for you idiot"

@julian-wolf you’re right, your point about moving from a truck to a brick and mortar has happened with two spots that I’ve frequented for years here in Austin (both about a mile from my house, and one even catered our wedding and just won a Michelin star) and you’re right, it allows their business to expand and grow and continue to develop. Not exactly the case when we’re talking about a two person operation that’s directly limited by their ability to produce in limited quantities. On your second point, I’m also curious since it seems like they repost just about everything that they get tagged in. I’m not an influencer by any means but when I do post something from them they will usually repost it.

Damn, I must really be easy on my jeans because I feel like these jeans don't fade at all. Been wearing them ~5 days a week since the comp started and I can barely see anything lightening up.

after first wash and one day of wear....

Warehouse actually included the rope on theirs like MJF mentioned.

Such beautiful work @Duke Mantee I wanted to write a little on the bag I made, and this ”pleat fold” in particular, cause it took me a while to figure out how to do. It’s there not only because I think it looks cool, but also the Liston locks can be sort of fiddly, so being able to get a finger behind to support the insertion of the lid lock part. Anyway, I think this technique is only possible if hand stitched, but I’m not an expert at machine stitching so I could be wrong. To do it, I prickmark the stitch line, one line on each side of the lock. Then I stitch from the bottom up, until the first mark seen in this image: The mark isn’t super visible, but its just at the top of the lock at the stich line. At that mark, I folded the bag over, and stiched through two layers. I continue until the second mark, where I fold the bag back again, and stitch through 3 layers until I reach the end. The top of the bag is skived to zero to make it easier to stitch the binding. I have never seen a guide on how to do this pleat, so I figured I could type one out. Theres probably even a name for it in french or something, I just dont know it.

1945 506 I got one wash actually from Bears (43 and 46 jeans I had from raw). I like the fit overall but the armhole is less comfortable than my Freewheelers Type I's. I'm hoping it'll settle down with wear - ptp is certainly big enough but not a jacket I would advise sizing down on even if say shoulder measurements look generous. Front length is on the longer side. The weft colour on 1945 is noticeably warmer/ more beige was one of my main first impressions. Also when buttoned it's a little bit 'wavy'. like buttons or button holes aren't totally aligned? I actually quite enjoy how it looks... presumably true to the vintage jacket.

Good price that but I'm gonna have to pass as I've got some SCSC 42s coming soon

Good luck scoring Ooe's today - saw some big influencer posted about them/the release event today on Instagram Hopefully no one gets trampled

I'll be making the trip to inspiration this year as well. From what I remember from past inspirations Ryo and Hiro tend to bring new offerings in limited sizes. I scored the duck vest 2 years ago and the cossack jacket some years back as well. I'm hoping they bring a few pairs of those one back pocket trousers.

Thx Julian. Maybe also a reason is that are oversized. Normally I wear 34, but those are 37. They are really fast faders. I did just long cycle wash and after I had to pull up legs. I prefer to have double little cuff and I wanted to avoid to have them in the middle of thighs. Now they are with cuff 5 cm above ankles. I have to say, the denime and manufacturing is amazing.... Thank you Simone

Freewheelers Lot506XX 1933-34 • GroundAlls • Sugarcane 1947

Caught by my kid - schlepping all his stuff. Jackman x2, Kapital, WMJ, Nike

Vintage rayon shirt, At Last & Co. 147, Converse

Never knew that! Might have to try drying them on the clotheslines I have with the holes when the time comes to wash this one and the white one I have.

^ I like my Word of Mouth jeans a lot, but they’re not made to nearly the same standard of construction as anything I have from Ooe. That’s completely fine with me, in the end—I didn’t buy them to be built with every stitch perfect—but it makes them feel like a much closer to comparison to someone like Rockets or Bridge of Time (not that I’ve tried either of these personally, to be fair) than to Ooe. The only other jeans I’ve worn that felt like they really parallel Ooe in that regard are Roy’s, so maybe it’s too high of a standard to be comparing on anyway

^ I know I posted awhile back about being bothered by the IG strategy. Since I’ve gotten off IG, of course I am no longer bothered by it. Annoying as I can find the strategy, I really rather view them as a symptom of the new commercial reality for small makers, wherein if you want to expand it is one way to break out to wider audiences, and perhaps the most utilized way. As I mentioned somewhere else recently, this has really been to the detriment of creators in all sorts of mediums writ large, but also to the extreme benefit of a few who would otherwise not have made it in the prior world of brick and mortar retailers with buyers. They’re playing the game well enough. The game may suck, but hard to hate the players. I love that they can do what they do and be appreciated. As for their jeans though, well, I’m generally quite happy enough with my WMJ pair and Simone that I would probably entertain taking that route again, to be honest (though with one worn and 2 untouched Ooe pairs this is a while down the road). It’s not the same thing, and he’s not getting his own denim for his pairs, but Ooe to my experience hasn’t really been appealing because of their fabric. Simone really offers some similar charm in a different way. And of course there are others. I know Ooe makes other designs besides jeans, I can’t speak to those, but there are usually good alternatives out there and if the Ooe spot is blown up, well, okay.

^ yeah that's the purpose. Some repro brands issue them with rope for hanging dry too

@mlwdp I thought those holes were for hang drying directly on a clothesline? Not 100% sure on that though.

I think they’re formal when they have a refined (rather than blunt) toe, single leather sole and are polished well to a high shine.

Phigvel naval tshirt, with button holes at the bottom for trousers

The tried and tested scattergun approach always delivers!

They have a way of ruining everything they touch, don't they?

According to the inflation calculator that would be roughly $49 in today's money, what a steal!

Jist show up on ig https://www.instagram.com/p/DHdtVrFTVmg/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Andersen-Andersen hat & sweater, TFH shirt, Warehouse pants, golden retriever…

American Optical, RRL, SC, Coronado Leather, 3sixteen, Padmore

Stopped through the Bay Area on my way back to Seattle and spent an afternoon working on a close friend’s new (to her) Saab.. it was freezing there yesterday!!! im wearing a vintage jacket, rocky mtn featherbed hoodie, duke belt, tender 132p and flat head boots.. and some merino underlayers.. and 2 pairs of socks lol

Some of my favorite Union Special shirts: Got the first two (Neal Cassidy plus Foreman) from Seiichiro around 2020. Both have aged really well; I love the puckering on the Foreman, although the color on that one’s faded a little fast for my liking. Both are 50/50ish cotton/linen blends. The Neal is a little small on me now, but the Foreman still fits perfect. The contrast & colors are truest on the collar shots. Got this salt & peppery chambray Hammersmith off Yahoo in 2019 or 2020 I think. It’s probably my most-worn cotton chambray shirt from Freewheelers, although I did just pick up a lighter S&P Neal shirt (prob. the exact same one our own Neal’s got on, above) from Yahoo a few weeks ago that I’m looking forward to. Very comfortable fabric. My very favorite shirt—maybe ever—is this Rivet Gunner (the red one) that I picked up in 2022 or so. No photos that I’ve taken manage to do the fabric justice. I was ecstatic to find a second one recently (the green), not too heavily used. It just arrived in the same shipment as the S&P Neal; I still haven’t even worn it out. Bonus shot of all of the above crumpled on the table, for color reference: