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2 angles on the Warehouse, Denime, Alden combo

ues/tezo/sugar cane

Teasers...

Im aiming for this type of length on the 611, basically a no break fit. Inspiration pulled from WOJ Instagram. The top picture is exactly what I’m aiming for. As a result the inseam will be 27.5”/70cm for the post wash fit. I’m 6ft or 183cm Thoughts? Concerns? Im almost Certain BF will hate this already

Here's a size comparison between a new black 505s in size 36, and a pretty new 50s in size 36. I wear my 50s a little larger than most western guys I think. I would describe the fit as relaxed everywhere. Waist a tiny bit bigger than my waist and no stretching. 505s are a little bit smaller in the waist. Very small stretch for me. Although the thigh is around the same as the 50s at the top they feel slimmer all over. Rock and roll fit. Other TCB sizes I wear... 40s in 34, 30s in 34, 1890s in 34 (pics in this thread), Cats Drive in 34, Tabbys Work Pant in 34. Don't try to go small on these.

^Fun thread bump @Talan, I missed this one! Overall Favorite: No surprise here, going with Ooe Yofukuten. Biased as I still look back fondly at the days of full customization, and receiving those mini fabric swatches in the mail, deliberating which to go with. In their current form, they still haven't lost the magic and soul which draws me to them. It's crazy how I can look at a pair of OA's and just feel the love and effort put into them despite their subtle nature (subtlety being another attribute I fawn over with OA). The natural fades over time, construction and details, perfect cuts for my body shape, and Ryo and Hiro themselves being so awesome, it's hard for me to choose any others! Favorite Fabrics (no order): Warehouse 15th Anniversary Fullcount 13.7oz standard denim OAXX (Ooe Yofukuten first iteration of OAXX denim) Any old school Denime Brands I Recommend to non-Denimheads: Resolute: clean cuts for modern/adult tastes 45rpm: beautiful fades, a bit overpriced but high-fashion adjacent Fullcount: super soft and comfortable, variety of cuts Most Vintagelike Freewheelers Special Shoutouts: Warehouse: for pushing the repro world as far as they have, and continuing to innovate and launch new brands Sugar Cane: uncompromising value TCB: entrepreneurial spirit and saving Okayama culture Samurai: just wild...can't wear heavy weight fabrics anymore but still much respect to that ethos lol

@fabes great minds think alike, I was doing the same with @reallypeacedoff’s measurements and then trying to compare them with my OA WW2 pair. This was slapped together at the end of the work day so I haven’t checked my work.

These finally showed up after some years…

I want to let you all know that the amount of time you spend publicly agonizing over sizing will be factored into your scores at the end of the contest... let that be some encouragement for those of you who consider it an easy choice...

My logic is just to go by your OA size, if you know it. Which is 2 up from your normal size in like sugar cane or Freewheelers. It seems Simone uses the same logic in sizing as they do (size for raw rather than shrunk), which is really easy enough. I wear my 01s in a 31 but the top block is more on the snug side, my less stress (in life and on the jeans) size is invariably 32. My canes and fw are 30. But I do like me some oversized sometimes, which is why I’m torn on 33 or 32 but if I were set on going for a good traditional fit I would definitely go 32. Probably for some the top block is more limiting factor than waist just bc waist can stretch more easily. in conclusion, this is pretty easy! And I don’t know what I’m doing still.

411 WW2 deets 411 fit pic 611 cinch

Great thread revival, @Talan! I’m having a blast reading everyone’s choices for favorite denim. Number 1 on my list is Roy, early run Black Seed Denim. I bought a pair of Kinda Special 1001 that I was not initially smitten with. That changed as I put wear into them. At 13.75oz, they’re a comfortable weight. The denim starts out slightly hairy but becomes smooth as it fades. It’s a seemingly ordinary denim that is subtly spectacular. What I love most about it, though, is that it reminds me of the way my jeans felt when I was a kid. The denim used for the Freewheelers 601xx 1947 is next on my list. I’m not fan of over engineered fabric with snow-like nep or slub the size of ping pong balls, but the texture FW achieves using 5 different thickness yarns for this denim feels great to wear and to run one’s hand over. A truly thoughtful and well executed denim. Last is the Warehouse Banner Denim. At my core, I have simple tastes and a deep appreciation for the basics. The Banner Denim is a foundational fabric for me, the Platonic ideal of what denim should be. It fades at a moderate rate, has a small amount of texture, and softens into an almost plush feeling fabric. I just wish it was a bit more durable so I could wear my 1001xx into my golden years before the hens start to fray. Keep the “most sought after” lists coming!

^ it’s amazing the lengths some people go to over buying a pair of jeans. They probably spend less time and effort than this when buying a house! 😂

My favorite denim remains the Sugar Cane Lee repros from the late 90s. I've never seen anything to compare with it. And the magic feeling of walking into a store in Japan & realizing these kind of jeans existed...Priceless. I also rate highly the custom pair I had made by Iu of Companion Denim in Spain. I chose a heavy denim, 18 or 19 oz. It's aged really nicely & doesn't come across as a trendy slub-monster.

Great Lakes / Tender Co. / Rocky Mountain Featherbed / Union Special / Hollows / The Vanishing West / White’s

@bartlebyyphonics thank you for the warm welcome! This contest has me very excited! after seeing Simone post the 411S, I have to go with those, and I’m thinking a little oversized too. Good thing I know my Ooe size well! good to be back and joining another contest! This one is going to be epic!

very teasing @MJF9 ... mouthwatering even... likely staying with 611 / 1937 probably in w.40, leg at 80cm [cuff if worn at hip, possible no cuff/micro cuff if hoisted up to true waist] - I think @Jared_Lee's reasoning is sound; most jeans get unworn because too small, not too big... if too big in long run, rather than tailoring I'll sew on waist buttons and get suspending early 30s style... diaper butt ftw but; yes, enjoying all the data! and welcoming the all-star judging panel! and welcome back the most glorious @volvo240thebest, @srudy and @dudewuttheheck and @CSL very glad you've squeaked in! and @UkeNo - no cuff no break lovely lovely

I've said before that if I had my OA01's to do over again, I would get a 35. Looking at the shrink b_F reported compared with my Leroy's, I think I'm going to have to go 36 in the 5150 (my actual waist measures 32). Inseam is TBD. Pattern shape (where front rise meets back rise in the crotch) and where the pants want to settle on the hips can make inseams variable by as much as an inch to achieve the same length at the ankle. I just can't do the wash and shrink, spend a week in tight jeans, get them all stretched out where I like them after two weeks and then be starting down that whole process again in a few weeks time anymore. I like em a little loose and comfy right out of the dryer. If anything, I'll need to have my tailor nip the waist in if the shrink doesn't go according to the calculated 8ish percent from raw to washed. All that said, anyone in the market for a virtually unworn pair of OA01's in a 33? It's not like we're all already here buying another pair of jeans we don't need.

I put this together based on bFs measurements. Shrink % from after wash measurements compared to raw.

I, too, slapped together this collage. 😂

Going with the 411S model in size 38 (same size as my OAs). Pocket bags look great, I'm glad I mentioned this '42 concept early on.

I'm not sure, but assume the guy in the Nike shoes is wearing a looser cut. There are lot of no break fits on WOJ's Instagram that look great, plus I have plenty of long jeans - That's why im trying it out. They could end up shorter than I anticipate but it shouldn't be too extreme for me. Easy fix = buy new shoes, boots to match!

I’m eagerly awaiting the first request for a 44W and sub-20L!

Thanks for compiling and reposting the shrink data! In terms of sizing, in this contest we have way more info than on the other contest I remember. I might go with a W36 again...motivation to shed some lbs and thus keep fitting all the other jeans I own 😅

🤣 it’s like you know me so well. Big decisions, easy. What jeans to wear for the next 18 months?, let me make this as complicated as possible.

Update: In the top position is librapondus Waist Overall (rebuilt) — no questions regarding the cut, as all the measurements were discussed and confirmed with Ono-san during the ordering process. The details are impressive, the deviation from perfection is barely noticeable, not intrusive, just the way it should be, with a slight touch of wabi-sabi. As for the denim, the Last Resort used by Ono-san is also a perfect hit, I like absolutely everything about it: the texture, color, density, and feel (never had Jelado's denim before). An undisputed winner. My top favourites also include Full Count and Freewheelers, both the cut and the denim are practically perfect. TCB denim can be added here too, although there are some reservations regarding the cut. I still love OA, though denim is somewhat bland to my taste.

For what it's worth I never analyze measurements this much, I was just bored at the end of the day and thought "hey I can figure this out". You'd be amazed at the seemingly inane metrics they track at my job...

This is actually exactly what I was going for and how I wear my jeans now! Since a 39" isn't possible I'm deciding between 38" and 40", definitely leaning 40" though so they may be a bit oversized but I suppose in line with current fashion trends 😅

Jeez, I put in for a W35 without thinking much about it, but all this (over) analysis had me wondering if I should be going an extra size up

Looking for a wide-ish, no break look myself. Which is giving me jitters thinking about working out a final inseam. Going to try and be brave and put in my measurements this evening!

So the organizers have kindly allowed me to squeak in as a contestant & consequently I won't be judging. I'm leaning to the 50s model because of the higher rise. Still trying to figure out sizing. Simone's advice on going up by 2 sizes vs Tilmann's sample pair stretching back to the raw waist measurement is severely testing my decision making capabilities... In any case I'm very happy to be a part of this with you all!

Vintage 1970s Brooks Brothers/black SC 1947/Rancourt I realized that I forgot to post this one from American Labor Day so here’s a workwear bonus. Denime/Hollows/Buzz/Franks

I’m loving these jeans… whitesville/sugar cane/gat

Perhaps the anticipation was a significant reason for staying in shape all these years...🙂

^ Why wasn’t I consulted on this first?! 😆

Update Good news... Simone confirmed that Collect have shipped both rolls. The target plan remains for Simone to have the jeans to us before Christmas for the competition to start. Note though that’s a target as Simone’s doing this single-handed so we’ll need to be understanding. Anyhow, this plan beats my expectations for sure given we only very recently started talking about this so solid progress has been made. Simone has started on the belt loops already! Request please by the deadline of 14th September Can all contestants finalise the following by DMing it to both @beautiful_FrEaK and me please? Model Waist size Confirm if they want hemming done by Simone If yes, please state your desired inside leg. Simone will add 8.3cm to your desired leg length to allow for shrinkage. Any issues with the date, please let me know. To help you finalise your model selection… Key points Every SuFu contest jeans will be made with the same denim which is sourced from Collect/Japan Blue. 12oz Loom state selvedge denim made by Shinya on Enshu shuttle loom. Denim is 82,5 cm (32,5 Inches) wide Cotton origin: American Yarn count 7/1 x 7/1 Density 62x46 Please be aware may jeans are hand-made, hand-folded, sewn on vintage industrial sewing machines. Flawless, imperfections are considered parts of the beauty and character of my jeans. Discrepancies with chart may occur. Same specs for all jeans: 100% Japanese cotton sewing threads Hand folded seam allowances, no use of iron Sufu custom-designed cow leather patch Sizes available: 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 40, 42, 44 311 Slim/Reg silhouette mid to high rise 60's rivets No hidden rivets (can be ordered with hidden rivets) Word of Mouth buttons Orange sewing threads Thin belt loops Clean crotch and flys construction Natural cotton twill pocket bags 411 Regular straight silhouette (see pic) High rise Punch through rivets Hidden rivets Word of Mouth buttons Orange threads (available also with 2 tone threads) Wide belt loops Clean crotch and flys construction Natural cotton twill pocket bags 411WWII Same 411 specs except for: Japanese HBT pocket bags Yellow threads Raw crotch and flys construction (see pic) Unfinished pocket facings (see pic) S-wire donut buttons, S-wire laurel leaf belt button No bartacks on back pockets Wonky stitches 611 ('37 inspired model) Regular straight silhouette (wider than 411) High rise Punch through rivets Hidden rivets Crotch rivets Chinch back Reversed yoke construction (see pic) Two tone threads color Wide belt loop Raw Flys and crotch construction Natural cotton twill pocket bags 411S ('42ish inspired model) 611 silhouette Punch through Rivets Hidden rivets Standart yoke construction Crotch Rivet Bartack on back pocket No chinch back Wide beltloop 10 Oz Denim pocket bag (Amoskeag Repro Fabric) Donut and WMJ mix buttons 5150 High rise Regular straight silhouette Punch through rivets Hidden rivets Orange stitches Word of Mouth buttons Orange threads (available also with 2 tone threads) Wide belt loops Clean crotch and flys construction Natural cotton twill pocket bags

FW Ironalls Lot 100 / SC-43 tux / Tezo and @Duke Mantee (not visible) / Brother Bridge

Well, I did lock in and DM my choice after my last post, but I do want to say...at least for us...more options here with the jeans than when we bought a house!

@UkeNo, I like where you're going with the styling on your pair.

Screw it, DM'd my selection too. Going with the 311 with hidden rivets as well, size 33, and final inseam of 77cm (post wash). If I were going to wait until September 14, I'd be up each night agonizing over sizing haha.

Too funny. I was also comparing to my OA01s since that’s the only pair where I kept raw measurements to check against their many wash/dry cycles.

Late 90s early Italian production T-shirt, my first evisu aged about 14, now my son’s pyjamas. Check out the twist!

The only pic of me wearing said silverstone jorts. Paired with lvc duck vest (nice big pockets for screws etc) whilst building my shed in 2018.

A good friend of mine helped restore The Viking, the Nordic ship that crashed Chicago's Columbian Exposition in 1893 so I got a private tour of the ship and it's archives. Amazing that this crossed the Atlantic from Norway. Chilly day meant early sweater vest and wool trousers.

Get comfy.. i've got a long overdue photo-dump We moved into our house 5yrs ago and the bathroom was already fked! I've been bodging the electrics to keep shit working Being an 1880era terrace house, there was never a bathroom, toilet would have been at the end of the garden (now a bike shed) and washing facilities would have been a tin bath in front of the coal fire.. so our bathroom would have been a back bedroom.. It looked like this.. .. there was a false wall to house the electric shower but designed by fkin idiots so one would open the door onto the sink which you would shimmy around before you could close it *face palm* I chalked out my plans full scale on the floor at work ..and started building the cabinets ..bought a lovely hand made concrete basin ..and some wood from https://www.albiontimber.co.uk/ We're not posh enough to have en-suite so much to the families disgust.. i bought a camping toilet from Amazon and put it in the outside loo ..I started building the cabinets in ..took a break for Pakistani mango season ...droooool! ..i didn't do any of the plumbing or tiling, i just planned it all out to the nth degree and bought all the stuff (well you know what i'm like, i spent months doing this ).. turned out the tiler was some kind of tiling god! Now it looks like this.. ..had the shower tray imported from Ireland I wanted the windowsil to drain the water back to the shower tray so rather than taper the fluted pink tiles i made a wooden plinth and cast a silicone mould ..then made a concrete windowsil instead ..turned out pretty well I bought this mid-century Italian medicine cabinet from https://vintarama.com/en-gb in Germany These are the plinths i made from the Ash i bought from Albion ..bits and bobs from Ferm Living ..and Zone Denmark ..i've built a hidden cupboard into the cabinets ..push the door and it clicks open Stacey Solomen can fk off with her scatter cushions.. i've missed my vocation in life as a bathroom designer!

Hope it's still your size!

Posted this before... Edit DM'd my selection: 311 with hidden rivets, size 38, and 34" inseam (pre-soak/wash).

Going back to the flannel pocket bags on og Levis, l saw these pics on lg and had to share. Another flannel colour combo alternative to the usual herringbone twill or the natural cotton pocket material.

@aho the Beckmans look great! Interested in seeing how they age and develop, I've not seen so much of that, r/RedWingShoes is full of the more popular (and I suppose more recently available) Iron Rangers, Moc toes and Blacksmiths

Warehouse Lot 1082, caught a restock.