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Decided to keep these slim chinos due to weight loss. Phigvel Phigvel Vans

About a month in the 1890. Cool jeans I think.

runabout tux again Nicks boots

Hello! Thought I'd post my 714s on here. 6 months of regular wear. I was planning on not washing these much to see if I could get a bit more contrast but with young kids that hasn’t been possible. They are still starting to get interesting though and I really like the denim. These are a 32 33. I probably should have gone with a 33 for less of a fitted look. Maybe next time

something that’s not denim for the thread Nonnative Xolo bracelet Phigvel tshirt Phigvel white canvas painter trousers Redwing 8179

Since WoM has a 30s, a 40s and a 50s cut...would you mind everyone can take his preferred fit with the details and only the denim would be the same?

TCB / SC / FW’43 / Cons

Dusty boots hanging at the Ren Faire last weekend. Same old same old. T shirt is from my friends Nancy and Kitty's awesome garage punk duo The Ex- Bombers.

Updated with size charts (sorry for the quality, Sufu made it blurry. Click on them) Currently we are discussing a possible denim, a custom patch and other details and yes...we are also talking price. Stay tuned!

runabout tux again. Brander type 1 is proximity denim. Sample loomstate jeans are nos cone

Not today but Sunday. My 17 year old son came round and took these on a second hand Canon EOS he bought recently. Not a bad result and better that my puny attempts at selfies. Warehouse x2, my lovely @Duke Mantee belt, H&M t-shirt and the only footwear l have nowadays, Sketchers Steel toes.

Do not spill it on those trousers mate!

I’m in depending on price (€300+ might be out of my range, for now, sadly)

Limit of participants: 25 Duration of the contest: 18 months Prize: 3rd and 4th classifies 40% discount on a new order 2nd a free pair of jeans 1st a free WWII Type-1 Jkt. Each participant can chose the cut/model Available cuts: 311 (slim straight): a 60s cut if you so will. All orange stitching. Hidden rivets can be added if you want 411 (40s cut): late 40s (clean fly but raw crotch, seams color as desired) or WWII (raw fly, raw crotch, hbt pocket, more wonkyness, all yellow seams, no coin rivets) 5150 (kinda 50s cut, tribute to Eddie van Halen): all orange stitching 611 or S411 (same model): buckle back/reversed yoke construction, hidden rivets, crotch rivets, mixed orange yellow stitches, Yellow/black chain on the inside belt. If desired i could add a ‘42ish version with no buckle back, same fit, crotch rivets seams color as desired, standard yoke construction. Please refer to the size charts. Update: odd sizes can be made! A custom leather patch is possible. Pizza shaped arcs is a no no Choices of denim. The Poll is OPEN! 1. RS1950-ROW Cotton origin: USA Mill: Shinya Loom: Ensyu (Enshu) Rope dyed Yarn count: 7.1 x 7.1 Density: 62 x 46 Weight: approx 12oz loomstate 2. RS501-UF Cotton origin: USA & Australia Mill: Kaihara Loom: Toyoda Rope dyed Yarn count: 7.1 x 7.1 Density: 67 x 48 Weight: approx 12oz loomstate Denim No.1 is the denim used on my sample pair. It's rather new to Simone. Denim No.2 is Simone's "standard" denim where he has the most experience with. Comparison between RS1950 (left) and RS501 (right): His own pair made with RS501 was worn for 10 months and washed approx every 2 weeks: Price: Simone offers the jeans for a lower price of 280€ + shipping! Payment will be 50% on order, rest when the jeans are finished. This will allow him to book the denim (before production) and to offer also embossed labeled buttons for all models except WWII version.

Could well be the case. Still might be worth an inquiry, if WOM is even curious that is. American brands price in a different world and I wouldn't be surprised if their asking prices are from labor costs / market strategy as opposed to materials. I could be wrong though.

Not really denim, but enjoying a Starbucks on a Saturday morning.

WoM website

Some better shots of the 1920s tux when worn, thanks to my son and his photographic skills.

Great Lakes / The Flat Head / Cane’s / White’s

It got chilly this week and felt like fall so time to start wearing my flannels. LL Bean DIY Blundstones

evo update on the 1937ish: 5 month of almost everyday wear, 4 washes, no further significant shrinking... they come with red tab btw but its quite short, therefore almost invisible at least in the photos overall I am quite happy with em an consider buying another pair

**Disclaimer**: This is not a paid review, but I did receive the jeans for free. Whoever said that it's not worth spending on dozens of jeans and heaps of money might need to reconsider, because today, it finally pays off. I received this pair of jeans from the Italian one-man brand "Word of Mouth" to share my impressions. But first, a little background about the person behind the sewing machines. "Word of Mouth" was founded in 2019 by Simone Sorgato, born and raised in Milan, and now based in Rome. However, it all really began in 2015 when Simone had his jeans repaired at Self Edge New York. Inspired by this experience and by videos of ROY and Ben Viapiana at work, the idea of purchasing a Union Special 43200G firmly took root. Initially, Simone only offered hemming services for jeans. Gradually, more vintage and classic sewing machines came into his possession. He familiarized himself with these machines and expanded his services to include repairs. Yet, his ultimate goal was to produce his own jeans. It took many trials and errors before Simone was satisfied with his work, but in 2023, he was finally ready to bring his jeans to customers as a one-man brand. The brand name "Word of Mouth" is a homage to Jaco Pastorius. Simone himself is an avid bass player, which explains the connection. Even though Italy is home to famous denim mills and is renowned for its fashion, Simone chose to source his fabrics, hardware, and threads from Japan. When it comes to denim, Japan is simply the Mecca. However, there is another side to the coin, as some people are skeptical when high-end or reproduction jeans are not made in Japan. I count myself among this group. Therefore, I am all the more curious about how this Japanese-Italian collaboration turns out. The jeans in question are the "411" model. The 411 is inspired by the Levi's 501XX from the 1940s, and this version includes the typical WWII details. This means there are no rivets in the crotch area or on the coin pocket, and of course, no cinch-back. The buttons are the classic donut buttons with the laurel leaf. The fabric for the front pockets is a green herringbone twill. Since Simone does everything by hand—such as hand-folding the denim—and because the old machines sometimes have their quirks, no two pairs of jeans are identical. To stay true to the production conditions during World War II, the seams on the WWII model are a bit more irregular compared to, say, a 1947 model. This is comparable to the jeans from Conner’s Sewing Factory, which are made under similar conditions (these are not intentional flaws as seen with some other brands). Simone finishes one pair of jeans at a time. **The Fit** As mentioned earlier, the 411 model is inspired by the Levi’s 501XX from the 1940s. Depending on one's perspective, it's either a regular straight or slim straight fit. Simone developed the pattern with professional assistance. The rise is high, but not as high as some other brands. Notably, the back rise is lower than in brands like Full Count or Freewheelers, a feature I personally prefer. The taper from the hip to the waist is not as pronounced as in the Sugar Cane 1947 or Conner’s Sewing Factory models, but the 411 provides more room in the hips than CSF models, which I appreciate as a European. For a size 36, the thighs are cut narrower than in the brands mentioned earlier, which might be a concern for some. The leg tapers slightly towards the hem but remains relatively wide. The front pocket openings are small but functional, and the back pockets are of average size, comfortably accommodating a smartphone or wallet. Numbers say more than words. Raw vs. washed at 30 °C in the machine Waist: 36” 33” Front rise: 12.5” 11.5” Back rise: 17” 15.5” Thighs: 13.5” 12.5” Knee: 10.25” 9.25” Leg opening: 9.25” 8.75” Inseam: 34” 31” **The Denim** Simone sources his denim from Collect Mills in Japan. Apparently, Collect Mills also distributes denim from various mills, and this loom-state denim is reportedly from Shinya Mills. It weighs 12oz, which is lighter than the denim used by many Japanese brands for their reproduction jeans, but it falls within the same weight class as LVC jeans. It has a pink selvedge line and is relatively soft in its raw state. There are subtle irregularities, with a bit of slub here and there, and the hairiness is minimal. The indigo hue in its raw state is more of a medium shade with a steel-gray undertone. According to the description, this denim is typical of the 1950s, so it's not entirely accurate for a WWII jean, which would have used a rougher and darker denim. Simone can only purchase 1-2 rolls of denim per order, and once the denim runs out, it's usually no longer available. After washing it tightens up a lot and gets fuzzier. It has a very slight redcast. The denim remains rather soft after the wash. **The Details** The jeans feature the typical WWII details (or rather, the absence of them): laurel leaf donut buttons, missing rivets, partially unfinished seams, and front pocket fabric made from scraps (in this case, a green herringbone twill). All seams are sewn with yellow thread, just like the original. However, since Simone customizes each pair of jeans, I could have opted for different thread colors. Word of Mouth doesn't yet have personalized hardware like buttons and rivets, but for a WWII model, that's just right. The rivets are punch-through, as they should be. On Instagram, you can still see some older WOM models where rivets in the 60s style were used, which, fortunately, was not done here. The hidden rivets are rounded, as seen on vintage jeans. The red tab is made of rayon, just like the original, but it bears the inscription "PIZZA" (unlike the original). The leather patch is made from vegetable-tanned cowhide, an unusual choice since other brands often use goat or deer leather. It has a very smooth texture, and each leather patch is hand-cut and stamped by Simone. It depicts two pizza makers tearing apart a slice of pizza, a twist on the two horses pulling a pair of jeans. The leather comes from an Italian tannery. The paper flasher is as humorously designed as the leather patch. On my jeans, it wasn’t stapled, but that’s a minor issue since it would be the first thing removed anyway. The belt loops are slightly raised, which isn't typically found in vintage Levi’s but has become a standard in serious reproduction jeans. **The Construction** Five different thread sizes were used in the construction. As mentioned earlier, all seams were sewn with yellow thread, which is 100% cotton. Simone places great importance on the correct aesthetics, so the thread for the fly and front pockets is thinner. Combined with the 100% cotton thread, this naturally creates a potential weak point. To capture the feel of WWII jeans, the seams are not all perfect. Also, due to the hand-folding technique and the lack of ironing, the seams won't achieve the precision of brands like Iron Heart, but that’s not the intention. There are also unfinished seams and a few loose threads, but this is also intentional. One might argue that this approach masks the seamstress's shortcomings and sells them as a feature, but I believe that if someone gets machines from the 1920s to the 1970s up and running and adjusts them to their liking, their sewing skills will be more than adequate. Aside from that, the jeans feel solid. Only The buttonholes feel a bit loose, which might cause them to stretch too much and not hold the buttons securely. After the initial wash, the seams start to pucker and especially the roping looks fantastic. Simone definitely knows how to handle the Union Special. The buttonholes also shrank a bit and it feels more secure. **Summary and Conclusion** Overall, the 411 is a pair of jeans that perfectly embodies the concept of WWII jeans, as we've seen increasingly in recent years. The feeling of receiving a deadstock vintage pair is well conveyed. However, Word of Mouth has to measure up against a brand like Conner’s Sewing Factory, which is a high bar. At CSF, only machines that existed at the time of the jeans are used. WOM has the same level of accuracy. As a new brand, WOM is also dependent on "run of the mill" denim and doesn't have the option to use proprietary denim. Such denim comes with a significant financial risk, and according to Simone, he (still) lacks the expertise to help developing his own denim. WOM’s big advantage over CSF: you can order the jeans via Instagram without having to travel to Japan. Priced at €340, WOM is in the higher range. In terms of concept, I have to compare WOM with brands like CSF Rebuilt and Ooe Yofukuten. Rebuilt and Ooe are both cheaper; only CSF is more expensive. However, Ooe works in batches, and not every pair of jeans is made from start to finish before starting the next one. Rebuilt also works in batches, but these are smaller and more variable, depending on the orders received. Generally, the low Yen exchange rate makes it harder for WOM to compete with the Japanese competition. Established brands are now available at unprecedentedly low prices. Then there’s the matter of brand provenance, as I mentioned earlier. Japan simply holds the highest regard as a country of origin for jeans, something even Simone acknowledges by sourcing his denim, hardware, and threads from Japan. I was skeptical too, and for this reason, I probably would never have bought a pair of WOM jeans, despite liking the photos on Instagram. Therefore, I’m very grateful to Simone for giving me the opportunity to receive and test these jeans. Perhaps it will convince others to take off their "cherry-red Japan glasses" for once and try something new.

Since you’re discussing a possible denim I wonder if an order from proximity is feasible. Made with the looms from White Oak.

I have 7 jackets from tcb and the measurements on the site are precise. None of my jackets vary from advertised p2p by more than a cm. I don't own a 60s but would expect the same. They do generally run smaller than equivalent tag size from Warehouse.

I'd be interested, but would need to know more to commit. (I'm not joking about the pizza inspired arcs) Honestly though, like Julian, the biggest thing for me - after a good set of measurements - would probably come down to price. I rarely am willing to spend more than $250/pair and my closet now is fuller than it's ever been.

I’m a 38-40 in a blazer/sport coat and would buy a 42 in most TCB jackets

Some more angles of the 220XX-47. I'm really pleased with these, and going to make them my daily for a while.

A bit late here, I haven't worn these in quite some time (which is evident from the fold creases). Not sure why I stopped wearing them honestly.

Challenger Phigvel officer chino Vans

Cheap hat Fringed suede vest Manga Batman T Old belt MF Laredo boots

@AlientoyWorkmachine still a big fan of the UES jacket? Who remembers this t-shirt? 😅

failing to blend in as usual… tcb / vintage / r-mocs

JOHNG MUNG DENIM

It was a lost weekend in a hut in Hathersage, luckily not double pneumonia in a single room… A top escape for me and the lad in the Peak district Walking in the great outdoors, staring into meadows while drinking morning coffee, making friends with the sons of stags, listening to streams trickling, swimming in the local lido, sticking to a caveman diet of meat, fruit and veg and chilling away from it all Walked up Stanage Edge and Bamford Edge. At one point, I thought I heard a rumbling down below as if someone was in the drains and then a cool bike flashed past… we were deep in OO Soul country so who knows if it was him or not… Importantly there was denim on the trip… tatsunosuke military trousers and Freewheelers 1930s set-up

Went up the aisle yesterday Paul Smith Grenson My eldest son was the best man Also Paul Smith & Grenson

Pulling out the 50s on a cooler day. Color most accurate in the closeups. Love the crinkling and marbling of this denim even with countless washes

We just happened to turn down the right street and was wondering what people were looking at. On my way to Son of a Stag no less.

last one b4 actual wear kicks in, but fer good measure a presentation with suspenders and closed toes… tcb 1890s tux (crinklin’) / redwing

1947s after a little over a year

My boy and I tried to mess with mom/wife while she waited for us , we swapped clothes and walked back to her like nothing is happening. We had a good laugh( I guess you had to be there) me, him, yellow hat, cheap tee, fullcount, vans. him, me, obey, big boys, nike have to say that it all fits him better

thanks @MJF9! dismantling tux purity for other fitz… jc higgins for sears / tcb 1890 / birks & tcb 1890 x tcb cat boss overalls avec timberland

So ignored the advice and went for these in a sz32. I gave them their shrink today. Was much more cavalier than usual and just bunged them straight into a 40 degree wash. Sometimes you just have to live on the edge. As anticipated, the waist didn't shrink massively but that gives me a reason to maybe dabble in a new belt. I did take before and after pics, but my phone's camera is pretty ropey so i won't bother sharing them. Before/after measurements as follows: Waist: 17.5"/16.5 Front rise: 13.25/12.5 Rear rise: 17.25/16.5 Thigh:12.75/12.25 Inseam: 35/33.5 Leg opening. 9/8.75 Will whip a couple of inches off the leg tomorrow and crack on with them.

Same clothes new living situation (once we move all our stuff) Civilian Crew / Tender x2 / Tezo / Hollows / Cane’s / Birks

Looking good Doc... Just saved them and edited by clipping then... voila, right way up (I hope!)

greetings lovely people ma 1890s tux fit for reference… (jacket size 46, jeans w.38, hemmed to 80cm inseam…) just got ‘em so no experience or analysis just yet…

Here are a few pics of the 1943 jeans (size 34), received yesterday. As I mentioned to b_F, I feel pretty young and trim for an old dude, but look old and fat -- and, of course, the camera doesn't lie. I also have the jeans hiked up a bit, as I just put them on for the photo. I suspect they'll come in a little with a wash and I hope to come in a little too (i.e., lose a few pounds).

At the denim market I went to today I managed to snag these almost new 710s for a great price, I've always wanted to give the 710 another honest try so it felt right to pick them up. The inseam is slightly shorter than what I'm used to but that's the Resolute style I suppose? First impressions are really good, love the lightness and fuzzyness of the denim and they are not quite as slim as I expected the 710 to be. A little bit of Hayashi-style for those who like that!

Couple more: CSF x Westride 1948 CSF 409xx

@chicote here are post wash photos Turns out it is stained, not bad though SuFu bugging

Had this pair with me during our recent vacation so it needed another wash.