home-made jeans

[Canada_Steve]

[Manok]

A bit of evo on my first denim shirt made from 10oz. black warp denim.

 

It has about 2 months effective wear on it with 2 soaks and 1 machine wash. I’ve worn this fairly hard while camping, hiking and working. Shortly after the first post I added the triangular finishing piece to clean up the collar.

 

This project taught me a great deal about denim garment construction and helped me come up with the techniques needed to build a much stronger shirt, my latest design for the Eastern. That said, I’ve come to love the flaws including the hole in the left shoulder. Overall, I’m pleased with how much this black denim has faded and the way this shirt has evolved.

 

FULL ALBUM

 

 

Any possibility of doing a run of this shirt? I like the pocket used in this one more, as well as the black selvedge. 

[nutusufu]

Any possibility of doing a run of this shirt? I like the pocket used in this one more, as well as the black selvedge. 

 

I have considered it. A few people have expressed interest. Keep your eyes peeled.

[nutusufu]

I recently finished a custom project in collaboration with another user.

 

He chose a beautiful hand loomed denim from India.

 

 

 

More fabric pron HERE.

 

And here is the finished product:

 

 

 

 

 

Full album HERE.

[snozepp147]

Really great work everyone!

 

Quick patterning question if anyone can help out:

 

I'm running into a problem where there is a 'V' at the top of the side seam where the front and back meets at the waistband, making it difficult to sew on the waistband (see the circled area in the rudimentary drawing below). I'm guessing this is because the top of my pattern pieces are straight and not curved. My question is: do I need to curve the top of the front pattern, the back yolk, or both to smooth out that angle?

 

 

Thank you & happy sewing

[nutusufu]

Really great work everyone!

 

Quick patterning question if anyone can help out:

 

I'm running into a problem where there is a 'V' at the top of the side seam where the front and back meets at the waistband, making it difficult to sew on the waistband (see the circled area in the rudimentary drawing below). I'm guessing this is because the top of my pattern pieces are straight and not curved. My question is: do I need to curve the top of the front pattern, the back yolk, or both to smooth out that angle?

 

Thank you & happy sewing

 

You are correct, ideally both the front and back.

 

If the denim you are working with is forgiving enough you may be able to stretch a curve out by steam ironing.  

[snozepp147]

You are correct, ideally both the front and back.

 

If the denim you are working with is forgiving enough you may be able to stretch a curve out by steam ironing.  

 

Great, I'll just take a curved ruler and smooth that out. Thanks!

 

That handwoven denim is incredible, by the way.

[rodeo bill]

^^good advice from NTSF, but I'd also just add- unless you're going for a very sloped waistband then an easy rule is to make sure that the angle at the corner of each piece is a right angle (90º), so that when the vertical sides are sewn together, the horizontal sides are level and flat. Depending on how you want to cut it you can curve into the 90º or go straight at it, but as long as the corners are square at the points you won't go wrong.

 

Typing that made me confused, but I hope it makes some sense!

[Canada_Steve]

Since we're on the topic of patterns I thought I'd share a video I recently found on adapting patterns for the poker straight outseam of selvedge denim jeans.  I'm sure other techniques might work, but this looks dead simple.

 

 

Also some there's some patterns here that are specifically drafted around the use of selvedge denim (use Google translation): http://www.witz-int.com/fullofpatterns/mens/FOP07/FOP07.html

 

Here's some helpful tips on how to buy the the above website: http://verypurpleperson.com/2014/10/how-to-buy-from-full-of-patterns-website/

[mf051404]

Chainstitched by HAND (single thread pass)

Left the lockstitch though (for additional reinforcement and reference for the chainstitch)

[jgpp63]

That is really cool, can't quite work out how you did it but well impressed.

[nutusufu]

Chainstitched by HAND (single thread pass)

Left the lockstitch though (for additional reinforcement and reference for the chainstitch)

 

 

You must have the patience of a monk. Nice work.

[mf051404]

Thanks! I need to have them hemmed coz am not used to cuffs or stacks, unfortunately we don't have (or am not aware of) chainstitching here in our country.  I find the lockstitch done by the tailor a bit "loose", so there's no other option but to do it by hand so now they are "firm" as I want them to be.  @nutusufu is right, this requires a hell lot of patience, I was about to give up halfway the first leg BUT the damn chainstitch is very difficult to unravel ...continuing would be best at that stage so as not to damage the fabric.  Well worth the time and effort I guess.

[BillyHoyle]

Any thoughts on the toyota super jeans sewing machines?

I want to get back into sewing (did a bit oft back in school). My budget is about £150 and would like to do some canvas bags/ wrist watch roles/ other denim item (e.gl shirts).

Any advice would be much appreciated

[Canada_Steve]

Hey, all! Let's see where you're sharing your denim pics.

Instagram: @stevebuffel

Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/spyycanada/

Edited December 16, 2020 by Canada_Steve

[simontuntelder]

nvm

Edited June 28, 2016 by simontuntelder

[mf051404]

For the love of denim, made my own watch strap from an LVC cutoff.  Not perfect stitching, but this was done by hand.  Opted for a chainstitch rather than a backstitch for durability (NOT roping haha).  Nevermind the watch itself, nothing fancy

 

[aaronxxx]

That doesn't look like a chainstitch but nice. What kind of thread did you use?

[mf051404]

It is

Edited July 11, 2016 by mf051404

[mf051404]

It is, the "chains" could only be seen on the inner side (where it touches my arm), similar to a jeans's hem.  Made use of ordinary polyester thread

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That doesn't look like a chainstitch but nice. What kind of thread did you use?

[pom_made]

Hello everybody, just a short introduction as it is my first post on the forum, though I've been lurking here for some years
I am French, from paris, sewing and making jeans as a hobby since 2005. Keen on denim, fashion, and the industries behind.

I followed this topic for years during my studies and loved it.

Here is first contribution, last jeans I made, for me, in Kuroki organic denim.

Machines I used :

• 35800 : lap seams
• Juki DDL-8700 : single needle lockstich
• Bernina 950D : polyvalent, mainly for bar-tacking and straight buttonhole
• Brother EF4 : for overlocking

[lance]

Wonderful work and welcome to the forum, pom_made; looking forward to your contributions to the forum!

Edited December 7, 2018 by lance

[JDelage]

@pom_made I like those. You need to find some bleu-blanc-rouge selvedge now...  :-)

[Canada_Steve]

Wow, it's been a while since visiting this site. Here's a fresh build. I'm pretty happy with how my process has evolved.

Edited March 21, 2020 by Canada_Steve

[lance]

Nice work, Canada_Steve!

[peter1]

Very nice -- I especially like the belt loop arrangement. I know it's not historically correct but moving the loops to either side of the center seam makes for a cleaner line when wearing a belt, avoids the uncomfortable bulge and reduces stress on the center loop.

Although Calvin Klein might sue you for those arcs...

[Canada_Steve]

I've never looked up Calvin Klein arcs before, but now see what you mean. I'm not bent on them and it wouldn't take much to change them up

[Canada_Steve]

Not much going on in this thread these days :)  I'm still mucking about and enjoying the process. I now post my stuff on Instagram @blackgoldbluesdenim

[rbeck]

Old thread but wanted to document my process somewhere. I've got a habit of convincing myself I can make my own version of just about everything I'm into, so my project this year is to learn how to make jeans. 

It's been a while since I've rocked some black raws, so I decided to opt for some black denim. Found this Nihon Menpu black denim with a charcoal weft that spoke to me, so I ordered some. Need to get some muslin still to practice on for obvious reasons. 

Disassembled some Levis that fit me well in the top block, so that's gonna be my starting point. Going to add extra knee and hem width, thinking ~10" in the hem width for some real wide legs. 

Excited to get going on this and share my progress with you all!

[reallypeacedoff]

19 hours ago, rbeck said:

It's been a while since I've rocked some black raws, so I decided to opt for some black denim. Found this Nihon Menpu black denim with a charcoal weft that spoke to me, so I ordered some. Need to get some muslin still to practice on for obvious reasons. 

Hell yeah!

No need to take my advice—since it's hearsay—but I was recently talking to one of the repairers at the Nudie shop in LA about wanting to make my own jeans at some point. He used to do sewing and cutting for some big brands, and he recommended not using muslin since it's a completely different material to using denim and, more specifically, heavier denim. He recommends buying some cheap 8oz denim, practicing with that, fine-tuning your pattern from that, and then start using more pricey denim once you are confident.

Excited to see how you go, in fact, living vicariously through you.