Leepro Appreciation

[edmond]

oh no these are not the deep blue ones theyre the natural indigo but light indigo ones

[SLAB]

Im interested in buying a Lee repro pair; looking for slim/regular, button fly (suspender buttons would be a plus); which model should I be looking for? any suggestions regarding brands? Lee, RealMccoys, Warehouse???

[fardin]

slim cuts start more or less from the 50s onward, so a 52 or 55 lee japan would be good. but the suspender buttons are 30s style and those pants are more regular or fuller cut depending on the way you size em. all three brands are great imho. if you have the money go for warehouse or real mccoys. but lee japan is awesome as well. lee japan used to have a 60s cut, but i think is not beeing produced anymore, so you can also go for the 70s taxi driver by real mccoys.

[Sympathy-For-The-Denim]

@SLAB,

I´m wearing in a pair 1966s 101z "known as the beatles jeans", they are cut slim, but I´d size em down on size cause the stretch out.. the denim is very beautiful...

[entertainment!]

slim cuts start more or less from the 50s onward, so a 52 or 55 lee japan would be good. but the suspender buttons are 30s style and those pants are more regular or fuller cut depending on the way you size em. all three brands are great imho. if you have the money go for warehouse or real mccoys. but lee japan is awesome as well. lee japan used to have a 60s cut, but i think is not beeing produced anymore, so you can also go for the 70s taxi driver by real mccoys.

Page 63 of Paul T's book shows a Lee pocket flasher for the 101-Z with a copyright date of 1948 that says "SPECIALLY TAILORED SLIM MODEL". Does that mean that there were two different styles available, a regular fit and a slim fit? I have always been curious about that.

[fardin]

i guess the models got slimmer in general in the 40s. i dont remember the name of rodeo riders wife that had the idea of changing the cut ( acording to pauls book , if am not mistaken) of the lee cowboy to the lee rider. even my 42 waretime lee is has an overall slimmer cut compared to the 30s cowboy models. but would be interesting to know how that was.

[Paul T]

There are photos from 1944 of Casey Tibbs that look very slim - and again, the advertising pics of African Americna kids in 1953 are very slim indeed. I don't think that flasher indicates a second variant, just that the old jeans had been redesigned.

[edmond]

im happy with my purchase of the lee repro by stormy blue natural indigo i love the color and the cut fit pics in a couple of days

[fardin]

nice ed, i didnt know pherows makes lee repros. do you have a link ?

[Colin.Cosmo]

I just picked up these Samurai Jins used. They are the s0110xj and Im pretty smitten with them. The fabric is thick and coarse, but has a sort of silky hand to it. The rise is pretty low and legs fit slimmish. I will wear them as long into the summer as I can stand (they get pretty hot).

[entertainment!]

There are photos from 1944 of Casey Tibbs that look very slim - and again, the advertising pics of African Americna kids in 1953 are very slim indeed. I don't think that flasher indicates a second variant, just that the old jeans had been redesigned.

Even though the pocket flasher in your book has a copyright date of 1948, it might be much later. The pocket flasher included with a pair of Edwin Lee 1952 101-Z uses different fonts than the one in your book even though it has the same 1948 copyright date and an almost identical drawing of the cowboy. For example, the "L" in Lee is taller than the "ee" on the 1952 version while in your book they are the same height. In your book, RIDers is a mix of capitals and lower case while in the Edwin Lee flasher, RIDERS is in all caps. Those graphic design changes might suggest that the "slim" flasher is much later than the 1948 copyright date since they are more characteristic of modern typography.

Of course, who knows where Edwin got the flasher they copied!

[fardin]

since talking about books here at the moment too, i thought i will post this here. does anyone know about Gilles Lhote´s denim book?

here is an intersting link with two nice lee pics including flashers

http://tenuedenimes.blogspot.com/2010/05/denim-literature.html

[CrashTestBrummie]

Feeling those Jins...

[Paul T]

since talking about books here at the moment too, i thought i will post this here. does anyone know about Gilles Lhote´s denim book?

here is an intersting link with two nice lee pics including flashers

http://tenuedenimes.blogspot.com/2010/05/denim-literature.html

I do own it. It was great for its time, the first denim book I can remember seeing, but it's packed with inaccuracies, so best treated as a photo source book.

Nice of the guys at tenue de nimes to mention that other book, too!

[fardin]

well who can pass it. so it would be time for a new one paul. i know you are working on something else, but a denim book wich covers much more, specially the whole repro stuff. mor on fabrics more pics, haha. comon, and take dr heech on bord

[crownzip]

Paul's book has a permanent place on our living room table so look forward to the next. Wouldn't it be great to show other less well known work wear makers like Sears Hercules, Montgomery Ward, JC Penny's Pay Day and Super Big Mac, Sweet Orr, Brown's Beach Cloth, etc.?

[fardin]

yes yes yes grant, or what about since paul was the editor for mojo, we start making a western version of free & easy.

[crownzip]

I know more than a few work wear freaks who'd definitely be interested! I'm getting tired of buying all these books for just the photos and wishing I could read Japanese.

[entertainment!]

My ideal volume would be Paul's book but in a large format, five hundred pages long, with large detailed photographs of the jeans and their details. With lots of Lee coverage (just threw that in so this post wouldn't be too off topic).

BTW, has anyone seen an advance copy of the book called Jeans of the Old West that is due to be published this summer by Schiffer? Looks like it could be a great book.

[fardin]

yeah cant wait for the book to come out. good question entertainment. maybe we should ask it in some other thread, but wich ?

[ChuckO]

I just picked up these Samurai Jins used. They are the s0110xj and Im pretty smitten with them. The fabric is thick and coarse, but has a sort of silky hand to it. The rise is pretty low and legs fit slimmish. I will wear them as long into the summer as I can stand (they get pretty hot).

Nice to see those on someone. They have a great James Dean quality to 'em.

[edmond]

nice ed, i didnt know pherows makes lee repros. do you have a link ?

i dont have a link but i can post some pictures soon!

[Colin.Cosmo]

Feeling those Jins...

Nice to see those on someone. They have a great James Dean quality to 'em.

Thanks, they're quick becoming one of my favorites...

[SLAB]

thanks for the suggestions! i will have to do some more study before I choose on the model. Is Lee Archives = Warehouse Lee models?

I've seen two japanese made Lee models yesterday at the local Lee shop.; shop clerk told me they are from the Lee Archives line.

It's a wet dream of mine to have a english version of free & easy or lightning magazine; is the niche market really that small that a dedicated english language magazine for workwear and vintage cannot survive?

[fardin]

well lee japan changed the name last year from lee orignials to lee archives. what a bit confusing is that warhouse also has a lee archives branch. wich is a collaboration i guess. like some of their washed lees or the 40s 101Z, the cant bust em stuff and the lee frisco etc. wich are all warehouse lee archives collaboration, these special pieces are only available through warehouse. hope that helps. but lee japan sells the main lee archives models wich warehouse does not have.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

I thought Edwin is responsible for the standard Lee stuff in Japan. Is there an autarkic Lee Japan? Didn't know that.

[fardin]

no ur right edwin is making lee japan. but warehouse also has a colabo with lee

[fardin]

since grant has written me an e mail, i have heared too that all lee in japan are produced by edwin. from what i have heared too real mccoy and i guess warehouse lee are also made by edwin, but they suply them with the denim. but i dont know for a fact. we have speculated here before thats this is also the reason why they are more expensive. hope that makes sense.

[weinfeld]

Hate to ask, but I really like this jacket, http://ware-house.co.jp/index.php?page=item&ic=28612, but I would love it if it was raw. Does any one know where I can find one?

I can find lots of 101Js, but the 91B is relatively harder (at least in my parts).

[Snake]

http://www.casual.co.jp/lee.htm

only have size 38 and 40.