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Double 0 Soul

SugarCane 1990's M-Series Archive

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On 11/10/2019 at 2:29 AM, Double 0 Soul said:

1998 M-series

After spending the early 90,s constructing the perfect replica's SugarCane decided to distance itself from strict reproduction.
All of the following are SugarCane's own interpretation.
 
M41119 (1st)
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66 cut, 14oz course weave moving away from pink or white and into green line denim. The arcs are gone but the red tab is still apparent.
Goat skin patch, coming into production in 1998 but due to the transition the early model button backs are still stamped with the S as per the 91-97 Lots.

img_38


M41200 (2nd)

tosino7jp-img600x450-1372730570cezlqy1073

Sugar Cane's own interpretation of a wide leg 1910 model using the 14oz green line denim.

A unique looking pair of jeans. No tab or arcs. The selvage is visible around the inside of the waistband, crotch rivet and hammered exposed back pocket rivets reinforced with leather discs. Starting to experiment with pocket bag materials. The button backs are now stamped 98 to indicate year of manufacture.

M41

 

M41300 (3rd)
M41150 (Persimmon Dyed)
m41300_3

Tapered from hip to hem, 14oz green line denim. 98 button code.
Deerskin patch, front rivets now neatly embossed "Sugar Cane" while hidden rivets are stamped with the usual SC&CO TY.
Lined back pockets/coin pocket. No tab or arcs.

imgrc0066054434


M41400 (4th)

M41400_2

Paper patch, Mid 50,s cut, Talon Zipper Model using 14oz green line denim. The red tab returns but no arcs. The patch is the same design as the Deerskin M41300 shown above albeit embossed in red on paper
m41301-002

 


M41301

M41400_2

Brother model to the above using black 14oz white line denim but replacing the zipper with a button fly.

M41302

Bootcut model with a zip


M11619
Sharing the same 14oz course weave green-line denim as the M41119

1245138468



M11400
Same paper patch as the M41400 continuing to move away from reproduction...

1245138396
 

Six years later Sugar Cane moved on from the M codes to the SC codes which we all know today, bold move to then resurrected both tabs and arcuates when throughout the late 90,s they sought to distanced themselves from their use.

2004 Sugar Cane Lot.1947

IMG_0120

Happy hunting..

Hope Sugarcane bring this back again

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@Toegun cheers mate... yeah they are very roomy jeans which works for me... waist now at 44cm wide pulled flat, thigh 36cm from crotch, leg opening (when cuffed) 24cm... 

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Posted (edited)

^^ a pic from a while ago to show the volume (forgive me the angle!)

20200918 Canes Leeds.jpg

(will probably get them hemmed at some point when I get around to it)

Edited by MJF9

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Posted (edited)
22 minutes ago, MJF9 said:

^^ a pic from a while ago to show the volume (forgive me the angle!)

20200918 Canes Leeds.jpg

(will probably get them hemmed at some point when I get around to it)

What top do you have on in this pic, @MJF9? Great fit.

Edited by Suitedupmon

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@Suitedupmon cheers mate... it's the Ooe Railroad jacket from this summer

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New in... M41001

DD6849CC-BF3D-480D-9DB2-5A37C486B618.jpeg

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I’m surprised how well they’ve held together given the ‘abuse’ your jeans normally face

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There’s a great myth that heavyweight denim means that it is tougher, or more durable. 

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What’s the denim weight of those M41030s? I know they’re a 37 cut but they don’t look particularly light.

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M41001 (no patch)

Washed @ 40 C, 1000 spin, hung dry

Measurements...  

Before - After, with only 1 hours wear - Shrinkage (cm)

  • Waist 45 - 43.5 - 1.5
  • FR 35 - 33.5 - 1.5
  • BR 45 - 43.5 - 1.5
  • Thigh 36 - 35 - 1
  • Hem 25.25 - 23 - 2.25
  • Inside leg 90 - 85 - 5

20201031 M41001 No Patch 1.jpg

20201031 M41001 No Patch 2.jpg

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M41001

Quick comparison - worn patch v new non patch

20201031 M41001 Compare 2.jpg

20201031 M41001 Compare 3.jpg

20201031 M41001 Compare 4.jpg

20201031 M41001 Compare 5.jpg

20201031 M41001 Compare 6.jpg

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Cheers @MJF9, what are the tagged sizes of each pair?

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^ both 36 x 36... as per OO's guide, they are oversized compared to tag size so these are effectively 34s

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On 9/12/2020 at 7:54 PM, shredwin_206 said:

Paging @Double 0 Soul @julian-wolf

I’ve been trying to find info on the elusive two pocket Edo-Ai jeans with the Irezumi patch and pocket bags. 
Would love a pair in my size. Also curious who did the artwork for them 

Edwin, even though it's posted in the wrong thread...here you go... this seller has just listed 3x pairs of 2003 era deadstock Sugarcanes SC40500, SC40200 & SC40300 the info in his listings is as good as any information you'll dig up on the net, Tilmann's SC40200's review is an exception, of course :)

SC40500

i-img1200x900-1604403357siigvh19672

SUGAR CANE Edoshou indigo dyed right twill sugar cane denim.

A special model of sugar cane denim (a blend of sugar cane and cotton) that symbolizes sugar cane and the indigo dyeing technique "Edo Masaai" from the Edo period.
Sugar cane denim is originally inspired by the work clothes of Japanese Americans in Hawaii, and is closely related to Japanese Americans and is also a Hawaiian specialty.
Above all, this original sugar cane denim was completed through repeated trial and error based on the idea of using the brand name "sugar cane" .
This time, the denim is dyed with "Ai", which has been popular since ancient times in Japan, and is carefully repeated by craftsmen in a state close to handmade.
14oz denim woven with dyed threads.
By the way , I have never seen Edo Masaai ( not Edo Ai mixed ) jeans other than this model.
 
Fabric: Edoshou indigo dyeing , sugar cane and cotton blend, rigid, green ear selvedge denim
Specifications: Button fly, unannounced rivets, deer leather leather patch (dragon tattoo pattern), flasher,
    Slake (dragon tattoo pattern), back pocket reinforcement cloth (checkered pattern with cherry blossom pattern), back pocket hand-stitched stitch
  Others: Sugar cane special cloth bag & Ryutora's powerful tattoo pattern bandana included
 
[Ai Edo]
Edo indigo refers to the indigo dyeing technique or dyeing used in the Edo period, and is not a specific type of indigo cultivated in the Edo region.
The characteristic of Edo indigo is its greenish hue. This is the color of the indigo-dyed fabric in the Edo period, whose pigment has changed over time and due to sunburn.
The "chic" indigo color of the good Shioume was loved by the common people of Edo and became an icon peculiar to Edo culture.
The reference image is an old cloth of the reference material when "Edo Ai Denim" was planned, and the indigo has a greenish color due to aging and sunburn over many years.
It can be seen that the color has changed.
 
 
i-img1200x900-1604396511gv3fzl716276
SUGAR CANE Awa Tatemasa Indigo dyed right twill sugar cane denim  dead stock.
A special model of sugar cane denim (a blend of sugar cane and cotton) that symbolizes sugar cane and Tokushima's "Awa Tate Masaai".
Sugar cane denim is originally inspired by the work clothes of Japanese Americans in Hawaii, and is closely related to Japanese Americans and is also a Hawaiian specialty.
Above all, this original sugar cane denim was completed through repeated trial and error based on the idea of using the brand name "sugar cane" .
This time, the denim is dyed with "Ai", which has been popular since ancient times in Japan, and is carefully repeated by craftsmen in a state close to handmade.
14oz denim woven with dyed threads.
You can fully enjoy the process of discoloration by wearing a unique blue hue that is different from ordinary synthetic indigo.
 
Awa Tate Masaai] It is said that the origin of Awa Tate Masaai was in the Muromachi period and was an important financial resource at that time.
It is called Awa Tate Masaai from the old country name "Awa" in Tokushima Prefecture, where this Masaai was made from the leaves of the Polygonaceae family.
The indigo dye deposits dried leaf indigo leaves of the Polygonaceae family and repeats fermentation to make indigo solids.
This is called "Sukumo". Add this "sukumo" and lye, and then add nutrients such as glucose to make indigo dye.
By repeating dyeing and aerial oxidation using this dye, a deep color peculiar to Awa Tatemasa Ai is completed.
 
 
i-img1200x900-1604400388t4jj462270777
SUGAR CANE  Ryukyu indigo dyed left twill sugar cane denim  dead stock.
A special model of sugar cane denim (a blend of Okinawa sugar cane and cotton) that symbolizes sugar cane and "Ryukyu Shoai" that has been handed down from ancient times in Okinawa.
Sugar cane denim is originally inspired by the work clothes of Japanese Americans in Hawaii, and is closely related to Japanese Americans and is also a Hawaiian specialty.
Above all, this original sugar cane denim was completed through repeated trial and error based on the idea of using the brand name "sugar cane" .
This time, the denim is dyed with "Ai", which has been popular since ancient times in Japan, and is carefully repeated by craftsmen in a state close to handmade.
14oz denim woven with dyed threads.
You can fully enjoy the process of discoloration by wearing a unique blue hue that is different from ordinary synthetic indigo.
It is finished in the ultimate one that you can get.
 
Fabric: Ryukyu Seiai skein dyeing , Okinawan sugar cane and cotton blend, rigid, green ear selvedge denim (unevenness, unevenness)
Specifications: Donut button, button fly, unannounced flat rivet, crotch rivet, cowhide leather patch (indigo dyed / lacquer stamped),
    Flasher (shell ginger paper / persimmon astringent dyeing), slake (indigo dyed sashiko), back pocket reinforcement cloth (right side, sanshin print),
    Back pocket ripple stitch (hand stab)

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Saw those, saw the prices, kept on scrolling

The same seller had a couple of pairs up for a long time in size 26 and 28, I think lots 400 and 500, that were listed closer to msrp—maybe those are still up if anyone on the slimmer side is in the market?

edit: Still not very M-series, though

Edited by julian-wolf

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Alright i'll get us back on track...

Can somone buy these ? Ive been picking over the deets and i think they might be MP-Series, either that or they're a modified/wonky M41001 i would love to know for sure, they're cheap af but i really don't want to buy anymore jeans.

No outer-stitch to the patch which points to MP, the arcs are much shallower, more Levi-esque than the M41001 but they do finish in a small crossover rather than an MP style point, if they were after market arcs (not like you ever needed to add your own arcs back then) they wouldn't be broken in a Sugarcane style?

i-img1200x900-16041219453lvk0r1958695

The bartack is offsett rather than in the center of the pocket stitch

i-img1200x900-1604122012rsknx72153084

...and the belt loop overlaps the pocket stitch which is most un-Sugarcaney

i-img1200x900-1604121969f4zma1568938

I'd bet folding money that these are a missing MP-Series, they're a golden size too and they only cost £36

Edited by Double 0 Soul

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^ I’d assumed MP-603 based on the cut, but would love more info or insight on those if anyone’s got any

You’re right that the bottom of the arcs isn’t quite right, but also that if they were an at-home job they probably wouldn’t be so Cane’s-esque in other regards…

I don’t buy used jeans these days, otherwise I’d be all over them (I guess we all would be)

Edited by julian-wolf

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19 hours ago, julian-wolf said:

^ I’d assumed MP-603 based on the cut, but would love more info or insight on those if anyone’s got any

You’re right that the bottom of the arcs isn’t quite right, but also that if they were an at-home job they probably wouldn’t be so Cane’s-esque in other regards…

I don’t buy used jeans these days, otherwise I’d be all over them (I guess we all would be)

They're not MP-603, the pocket stitch of the 603 finishes at the bartack

16675142707_e4c9393904.jpg

They're more like the MP-597 in that respect

IMG_8017

..but everything else would be wrong, the thread colour, the selvedge (597 on left)

IMG_8028

..oversized coin pocket and belt loop possition

IMG_8020

I hijacked these images from @Spiraltoy years ago :) i knew they would come in handy one day...

Screenshot_2020-11-04 New photo

When i first saw the photo of the leg taper i thought they could be a 60's cut but the rise is quite high, then i saw the back shot and realised it's probably just perspective/angle

i-img1200x900-1604121976e6tws9562107

..as i say, i think they're a Levi-esque MP code which are missing from my archive but even if i buy them, i can't guarantee the pocket label will be legible, if it's there at all.

Right that's enough 7am nerding out for me.. i'm going to make another coffee

Edited by Double 0 Soul
rejigged images

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If you guys want more pics of the above mentioned jeans, just ask. I still have them.

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