Happy Jeans - Tcb 20s contest thread

[haler]

Leaning toward yes.  W36, L34.  Need to double check measurements and confirm.  Thanks again for the heads up, Volvo.

[FreeCharlesManson]

i'm getting in on this W29 L88cm don't wan't to miss this and regret. Not certain i'm sticking for the contest i might wear something else for the DWC we'll see 

EDIT: is TTS recomeded for these? my FULLCOUNT  and Burgus Plus are both tag size 29 and i love the waist 76cm at the moment.

Edited June 11, 2017 by FreeCharlesManson
forgot to write info

[Blue Nemo]

 This is what got me into the 20s, or jeans of that style & shape...

 

And I think this guy didn't go tts 

Edited June 11, 2017 by Blue Nemo
Typo

[volvo240thebest]

6 hours ago, FreeCharlesManson said:

i'm getting in on this W29 L88cm don't wan't to miss this and regret. Not certain i'm sticking for the contest i might wear something else for the DWC we'll see 

EDIT: is TTS recomeded for these? my FULLCOUNT  and Burgus Plus are both tag size 29 and i love the waist 76cm at the moment.

If you are a 29 on fullcount you'd better go for a 30 on tcb, have another look at measurements, just to be extra sure. I would be a 35 on fullcount and I wear a 36 on tcb. I'm away on tour at the moment. I'll fix the list in a couple days!

^ That's the original pair of Levi's that Inoue used to base his repro.

[FreeCharlesManson]

8 hours ago, volvo240thebest said:

If you are a 29 on fullcount you'd better go for a 30 on tcb, have another look at measurements, just to be extra sure. I would be a 35 on fullcount and I wear a 36 on tcb. I'm away on tour at the moment. I'll fix the list in a couple days!

^ That's the original pair of Levi's that Inoue used to base his repro.

looking at the chart i think i would be fine with a 30 as long as it doesn't stretch more than 3cm. i don't want the waist to be too baggy, which for me is >=80cm

[Foxy2]

On 11.06.2017 at 9:41 AM, Blue Nemo said:

 This is what got me into the 20s, or jeans of that style & shape...

 

And I think this guy didn't go tts 

Right, can't see the side seam in the upper hip section means he has pulled everything into the front with his hands being in the front pockets. I doubt that the pants actually hold up without his hands...I assume this is a photo shoot showcasing a vintage pair, far too expensive/valuable to actually been worn.

Edited June 13, 2017 by Foxy2

[bartlebyyphonics]

On 9 June 2017 at 0:42 PM, Paul T said:

Just wanted to drop in to say great work, Volvo, what a lovely pair of pants! Best of luck to all of you with the contest, wish I could be with you but funds tight in the T household. Brexit problems! PT xx

much sadness to your absence

and when they promised financial wonders for Brexit... Nigel and Boris were hue-hueing all the way...

one request tho, linked to the contest: any 1920s denim fit pics you can find from your trawls? can't find many in yr most excellent book (am I not looking right?) and if looking for general 20s am finding lots on oxford bags (for the widest hems in history) or lots of european workwear (i.e. images by August Sander). Any pointers for where to look? The recording of US workwear seems to slip into photographic darkness in the period between Lewis Hine and the FSA for the casual researcher - although a close viewing of Paul Strand and Charles Sheeler's 'Manhatta' is on the cards for what glimpses it might provide...

some 1920s sartorial images as enticement (all missing jeans fits - hoping you can fill the blanks): Tom Mix's epic hat and blanket coat combo, inflated oxford bags hems, a set of german workers and bonus image of Sergei Tretiakov...

 

[aho]

^Genuine 20's fits are indeed hard to come by, though I posted a few somewhere on denimbro a year or so ago? This remains one of my favorites, and my conclusion was that all others are hard to verify that they're actually Levi's:

 

[bartlebyyphonics]

2 hours ago, aho said:

^Genuine 20's fits are indeed hard to come by, though I posted a few somewhere on denimbro a year or so ago? This remains one of my favorites, and my conclusion was that all others are hard to verify that they're actually Levi's:

 

^^^

many thanks and many greetings

very aware of your db posts and search and also your instagram posts and very thankful for them

i was thinking if the scholar dr heech could provide no more, then phps the equally scholastic Paul T might provide a gem 

probably wrong place to monologue this [so apologies - tldr: rant about photo-history, with Shigemi Uyeda given props]:

but yes, a little stumped on searching [but not really scraping archives, surfing photo histories more, not yet going to Larry Schaaf / Allen Sekula territory] the move to image the 'worker' principally coming to fore in europe/russia in 1920s much more than US which in most general photo-histories go into the shift from pictorialism to modernism [Stieglitz, Weston, Strand etc. - altho. Strand does some amazing shots of Italian farmworkers in 1950s].

Given your great IG posts on Japanese-American citizens and workwear I wanted to insure you knew of these great but little known photographers of 1920s. In the context of pictorialism/modernist photography [which works to abstract workers from the image]  Shigemi Uyeda's 'Reflections on the Oil Ditch' [easy to find] and Kentaro Nakamura's 'Evening Wave' [pasted below]  - both from mid-1920s - are worth looking at as both abstract images in the modernist vein, but also as the product of Japanese American aesthetic meetings. As I understand it Uyeda was a farmer as well as member of a photo-club, so I like to imagine he was wearing his 20s Levis as he shot...

 

 

 

[Bobbo]

This thread is already bringing good stuff! 

[aho]

Some serious knowledge being dropped bartleby! Thank you for that; Unfortunately all that I know/have seen is mostly surface level collected from countless hours scouring various archives without direction or any actual research being applied (more inference than anything). That said, I will check out your recommendations, and certainly hope you'll be able to dig up some more! 

[bartlebyyphonics]

^

thanks aho!

I find most research is without aim but with enough time spent it is rarely without fruit (and always trust inference)

glad its useful/of interest

see link to a big show in 2016 on the japanese-american photo-clubs of 20s onwards

http://www.janm.org/exhibits/making-waves/

///////

and anyone with 20s denim fit pix or adjunct/related material?

pls post!

Edited June 12, 2017 by bartlebyyphonics

[Foxy2]

sizing, sizing, sizing...

I took a quick minute to look at the online meaurements for the 50's & 60's cut while memorizing my sizing & fit experiences with the pairs I own:
I own the 50's cut in W32 and W33 and the 60's cut in W32 - W32 being the size of preference for both pairs - TCB indicates a 82cm waist washed.

In both cases the denim stretched comfortable 2-4cm and would probably allow for another 1-2cm easily.
Looking at the size chart for the 20's it seems that a W32 would fit a little tighter, but could probably be stretched. This was also my experience with the sample/World Tour pair: slightly tighter but stretchable if going for the same size.

Since it is supposed to be a cut with a 1920's flair I will go up one size to a W33 - this way the cinch and the suspender buttons might come into play.

Hi @volvo240thebest - please update the list with my size...

Edited June 13, 2017 by Foxy2

[volvo240thebest]

^ today I'll update the list! I promise. @Foxy2 which inseam length? I wish I could size up to 37 for the same reason, but there's no such size unfortunately. 38 would be huge on me.

^^^ quality content @bartlebyyphonics, much appreciated.

 

Edited June 13, 2017 by volvo240thebest

[Foxy2]

16 minutes ago, volvo240thebest said:

^ today I'll update the list! I promise. @Foxy2 which inseam length? I wish I could size up to 37 for the same reason, but there's no such size unfortunately. 38 would be huge on me.

....

L84cm (after washing) will allow for a nice cuff...

[propellerbeanie]

Unfortunately, I'll have to back out of this contest because I don't think I'd be able to wear the jeans often. I'm still keen to see what the arcs will look like, especially since you mentioned that they can be unpicked to look like a certain brand...

[volvo240thebest]

If you happen to work for a certain brand I tell you these will look exactly as said brand after some seam ripper job....

[volvo240thebest]

On 31/5/2017 at 11:47 PM, volvo240thebest said:

Contestant list:

1. Volvo240thebest (Italy) - confirmed W36- L81cm
2. Nycsurfer530 (Usa) - confirmed
3. Aho (Usa) - option
4. Foxy (Germany/Russia) - confirmed W33 - L84cm
5. Mandel9000 (Norway) - W30-L79 (no suspender buttons)
6. Bartlebyyphonics (Uk) - option
7. Bobbo (Sweden) - confirmed W33-L80
8. Frost (Germany) - option W30- L79cm (no suspender buttons)
9. Gardengnomesinspace (Usa) - confirmed W36-L79cm (no suspender buttons)
10. Jigsaw (Indonesia) - confirmed W33-L79 cm
11. Milehighevertonian (Usa) - confirmed W36-L84cm (no suspender buttons)
12. Capsicum Fired Meat (China) - confirmed W33-L70
13. Not too tight (Usa) - confirmed W36 - L81 cm (no suspender buttons)
14. Hendsch (Usa) - confirmed W29-L76cm (no suspender buttons)
15. Cuccoo (Germany) - confirmed W30 - L82 cm (no suspender buttons)
16. FreeCharlesManson (???) - confirmed W30 - L88 cm
17. Haler (USA) - confirmed W36 - L86 cm

Updated the list! I am starting to get really busy with work now so I'd appreciate a bit of help from you guys. Please just check if everything looks correct.
The preorder deadline will be the day after the first concert of my festival, it's going to be a terrible work week for myself, so I'd gladly appreciate if you guys could please anticipate a bit the details, as I may risk to not be able of checking often the forum in those days.

@nycsurfer530 can't find your size and desired length

@aho did you manage to sell the house? Can we count you in?

Can't seem to tag more than a certain amount of people on a single post....
There is a list of possible contestants which either haven't confirmed or I still haven't put on the list:

Frost, Broark, Blue Nemo, Chicote, Efujobu - let me know if I can add you in!

 

 

[nycsurfer530]

ah so sorry, completely forgot to give my size... I'll do a 31 waist with a post wash desired inseam of 31inches.

Thanks so much @volvo240thebest and @edmond for organizing and making this happen!

[volvo240thebest]

meanwhile I've just heard from the Master that he'll be soon working on the pocket arcs design. I should have a draft/prototype photo within a couple days.
I really hope he'll come up with a great design and that you guys confirm another 17 orders after seeing it hahah!
For sure the remnants of it (scraped the extra bits of design ) will be slightly asymmetric like the original.

Edited June 13, 2017 by volvo240thebest

[nycsurfer530]

Also it may be worth mentioning when Inoue sees our desired inseam length he is assuming the length with maximum shrinkage. So if you're planning on just a soak you likely won't get the length you want. 

[volvo240thebest]

^ correct, they'd need to be tumble dried max heat to achieve the desired length. Also in my experience pretty much all my jeans inseam starts to feel shorter once the honeycombs set in. This is more significant with slim fits but it's still there also with loose cuts as well.

After wearing my 50's for a couple days I've decided that I won't opt for the folded cuff/extra length this time. I'll go with the standard inseam length I use for 60s jeans and go for one small single cuff.

[mandel9000]

Great work! I hereby confirm my spot, Volvo. Waist and inseam are correct.

[volvo240thebest]

pretty excited about having at least one gal in this contest!
pics of arcs will be mandatory this time 

[mrman]

Just to be sure, is the preorder deadline july 15th (as stated in the first post) or june 15th (volvo, you mentioned that the deadline is during your concert week and I had the impression that you're touring at the moment)?

[volvo240thebest]

^ it's indeed the 15th of july. My personal concerts are nothing, on jul 12th and jul14th I have the first two concerts in the Festival where I work as director, the week before the prima and the week of the prima are usually bonkers for me, hence why my post... sorry if it was confusing.

[Fooleo]

Relieved there is still a month to decide, I am considering doing the 20s contest as well as entering the DWC II with a pair of resolute 710s (I am able to wear jeans to work, and put pretty heavy wear on them) so between the WH 1000s I'm wearing primarily right now, I can have an optimal rotation of something slim, something straight, and something on the looser side 

[Maynard Friedman]

OK fellas, can we have definitive post-shrinkage measurements on a size 40 1930s denim jacket please? It's not for me you see, it's for my, erm .... friend, yes, that's right it's for my friend!

 

Aah wrong thread!

Edited June 14, 2017 by Maynard Friedman

[FreeCharlesManson]

On 5/31/2017 at 3:47 PM, volvo240thebest said:

 

FreeCharlesManson (???) - confirmed W30 - L88 cm

I'm Canadian BTW

[bartlebyyphonics]

Finally getting off the fence: lets go nuts for comfort and flair (and the ability to actually hot-wash)

thanks foxy for the run-down of sizing comparisons between 50s and 20s again: good to have those facts confirmed from nycsurfer experience...

(boring rationale: my 50s are tiiiight on the guts and if 20s are marginally tighter in waist band and slightly smaller in front rise, even with promised stretchiness, that is not what I go to 20s 'fully loaded' jawns for... I  am left with no option: like volvo, a 37 is preferable, but... [only other option is to wash 36 in cold water for 18 months - nah])

(raw) 38 with 85 inseam (at post-shrinkage)

wide and cuff-able with an aim for ankle swinging, sod the fades...

no to exercise or dieting for 18 months: yeah!

&&&&&&&&&&

thanks again to volvo, ed and bobbo for all prep production and hostingzzzzzz

looking fwd to it...

and good luck with the festival dear volvo! any Al Qantarah? [i greatly enjoy their 'Abballati, abballati!' for medieval sicilian sing alongs...]

 

Edited June 15, 2017 by bartlebyyphonics
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