Happy Jeans - Tcb 20s contest thread

[volvo240thebest 23,980]

hello everyone! time to open this thread.

We're programming a new TCB contest, this time it will be focused on the TCB 20s cut only.
The sponsor of the contest will be  our own @edmond and Regiment Store in Manila.

Start date: sept 1st 2017
End date: march 1st 2019
Preorder deadline: july 15th 2017
Cost: USD 245, shipping included, hemming included if needed (done by TCB)
Customization: it's possible to order the jeans without suspender buttons (they don't make much of a difference as far as comfort when wearing a belt, though)
Payment: it's possible that payment will be via credit card only, no paypal. More details about it later...

Prizes: thanks to the Asian Charles Bronson & Regiment store we'll have perhaps the most generous prize line up I've ever seen in a contest.

• 1st Prize = 1 jacket 1 pants
• 2nd prize = 1 jacket
• 3rd price = 1 pants
• 4th prize = newspaper bag
• 5th prize =  hat or cap

All TCB products!

TCB 20s
Replica of a 1922 pair of Levi's 501 from Hajime Inoue's personal collection. typical details of a 1920's pair of jeans, straight cut, cinchback, exposed back pocket rivets, crotch rivet, suspender buttons, iron buttons that will rust over time.
Fabric: 8x8 Memphis cotton denim, 12.5 oz weight. Superb fabric, I must say!

Special details, only for the contest pair

• custom patch, designed in Italy

 

• special pocket bag fabric, selvedge indigo duck fabric weaved on old looms. Inoue's own words: "indigo canvas can also enjoy discoloration"

• custom arcs, designed by Inoue, I have no pictures yet of the arcs design, but it'll be something that could be partially unpicked to reveal "proper" arcs
• waistband chainstitch runoff

 

 

 

 

Edited June 1, 2017 by volvo240thebest

[volvo240thebest 23,980]

Sizing

read the chart: after wash measurements. raw measurements will not be provided, as I believe they only generate confusion and sizing errors.
disclaimer: there may be minimal variations on each pair. The fabric is woven on very old looms, variations on thread spinning and weaving need to be accounted for, but that's about the same for almost every brand discussed in this forum...

How jeans are measured
waist: front and back aligned

front rise: from the crotch seam to the top (or viceversa )

thigh: left (wearer's POV) thigh from the crotch seam

inseam: left (wearer's POV) thigh, from crotch seam down to the bottom of the inseam

hem width:

For hemming/inseam: please specify your POST WASH desired inseam length in cm.

Edited June 8, 2017 by volvo240thebest

[volvo240thebest 23,980]

Contestant list:

1. Volvo240thebest (Italy) - confirmed W36- L78cm
2. Nycsurfer530 (Usa) - confirmed W31 - L79 cm
3. Foxy (Germany/Russia) - confirmed W33 - L84cm
4. Mandel9000 (Norway) - confirmed W30-L79 (no suspender buttons)
5. Bartlebyyphonics (Uk) - confirmed W38 - L83
6. Bobbo (Sweden) - confirmed W33-L84
7. Gardengnomesinspace (Usa) - confirmed W36-L80cm (no suspender buttons)
8. Jigsaw (Indonesia) - confirmed W33-L79 cm
9. Milehighevertonian (Usa) - confirmed W36-L84cm
10. Capsicum Fired Meat (China) - confirmed W33-L70
11. Not too tight (Usa) - confirmed W36 - L81 cm
12. Cuccoo (Germany) - confirmed W30 - L82 cm
13. FreeCharlesManson (Canada) - confirmed W30 - L88 cm
14. AgingProject (UK) - confirmed W31 - L79 cm
15. Krunky B1 (France) - confirmed W30 - L86 cm-raw
16. Paul T (UK) - confirmed W31 L79 cm
17. Aho (USA) - confirmed W36-L73,5 cm [no suspender buttons]
18. Spunkey (USA) - confirmed W32 L76 cm
19. Inimitable N! - confirmed W40 L39 inches-raw
20. Topgearskin (UK)
21. Edmond (Manila)
22. @mleggettfurniture (USA)
23. IG: @1188sft aka "Uncle Karl" (Japan)
24. IG: @yabuyoshi (Japan)
25. IG @310_h (Japan)
26. IG: @micky_aginglove (Japan)
27. IG: @kameisenpai (Japan)
28. IG: @tt76_insta (Japan)
29. IG: @kumaichan901 (Japan)
30. IG: @1939srw (Japan)
31. IG: @beck19771977 (Japan)
32. IG: @nori.077 (Japan)
33. IG: @marianovittori (Switzerland/Italy)
34. Erk (USA)
35. MasonAlexander (Canada)
36. Broark (USA)
37. IG: @nowv (New Zeland)
38. Srudy/ Suzie IG: @denimbitch (USA)
39. Ms Buena (Manila)
40. Vic Basa (Manila)
41. Mikee Fuentes (Manila)
42. Elmer Sentilanosa (Manila)
43. Kevin Yapjoco IG: @kevinyapjoco (Manila)
44. IG: @yass1973 (Japan)
45. IG: @kiriyamaworks (Japan)
46. IG: @makoto_1970 (Japan)
47. IG: @zennosuke2467 (Japan)
48. IG: @121nayuta (Japan)
49. IG: @hofungfungfung (Hong Kong)
50. IG @msk.kyoto (Japan)
51. IG @bluebear501 (Japan)
52. IG @og900r (Japan)
53. IG ginrei_100strade (Japan)
54. IG @_jeansky_ (Japan)

 

Edited January 11, 2018 by volvo240thebest

[volvo240thebest 23,980]

couple more fit pics, perhaps sized in a more "occidental" fashion

 

Edited May 31, 2017 by volvo240thebest

[nycsurfer530 19,747]

Soooo stoked for this!!! Put me down!

[heavydoom 170]

can i join just to get this version of the 20's jeans? 

[nycsurfer530 19,747]

29 minutes ago, heavydoom said:

can i join just to get this version of the 20's jeans? 

Always- but why not post the occasional update and photos at the end of the contest  

this is looking to be a very special pair with the contest details. Anyone who wants a straight leg jean should jump on these!

Edited June 1, 2017 by nycsurfer530

[aho 677,906]

Count me tentative my friend! My latest hobby and new home ownership is at odds with future denim purchases, but you know I've been tempted on these since the idea was first floated...

[splash pitman 79]

Will there be a heavier denim or just the 12oz , would pull the trigger for something around the 18/20oz .

[Foxy2 8,931]

Put me down, as well.

[volvo240thebest 23,980]

1 hour ago, splash pitman said:

Will there be a heavier denim or just the 12oz , would pull the trigger for something around the 18/20oz .

It'll be the 12.5 oz denim. I hardly doubt TCB will ever make heavy denim.

[volvo240thebest 23,980]

I've updated the list. Please let me know which size and inseam length as well whenever possible. Just edit your interest post with size and inseam.

[volvo240thebest 23,980]

2 hours ago, aho said:

Count me tentative my friend! My latest hobby and new home ownership is at odds with future denim purchases, but you know I've been tempted on these since the idea was first floated...

Come on Aho sell the house!

[propellerbeanie 1,281]

Hey @volvo240thebest, will these come one-washed or unwashed? Also, would it be best contacting TCB's Instagram in regards to back rise measurements or is there a better avenue? I'm interested, and am thinking of either the size 30 or 31...

Edited June 1, 2017 by propellerbeanie

[mandel9000 2,513]

Count me in as interested! That would be a size 30", I'll update with desired inseam length after measuring my favourite wide-legged pair when I get home this afternoon. 

[volvo240thebest 23,980]

38 minutes ago, propellerbeanie said:

Hey @volvo240thebest, will these come one-washed or unwashed? Also, would it be best contacting TCB's Instagram in regards to back rise measurements or is there a better avenue? I'm interested, and am thinking of either the size 30 or 31...

I'm going to ask for back rise measurements for you guys. I'll have a few busy work days, so it may take a little time.

 

[volvo240thebest 23,980]

38 minutes ago, mandel9000 said:

Count me in as interested! That would be a size 30", I'll update with desired inseam length after measuring my favourite wide-legged pair when I get home this afternoon. 

glad to hear Birgit. Vikings are always welcome.

[heavydoom 170]

i am interested.  volvo, what courier company will be used to ship these pants?  this is a very important factor for me.  i hope EMS.   any other carrier and i am out.  sorry.

 

that pcoket bag thing, so it's a bag that contains the jeans? 

Edited June 1, 2017 by heavydoom

[bartlebyyphonics 10,091]

37 minutes ago, heavydoom said:

i am interested.  volvo, what courier company will be used to ship these pants?  this is a very important factor for me.  i hope EMS.   any other carrier and i am out.  sorry.

 

that pcoket bag thing, so it's a bag that contains the jeans? 

pocket bag = the pocket structure / fabric

i.e. indigo duck/ canvas =  the fabric the pockets are made from...

methinx?

[heavydoom 170]

so the duck canvas is the lining of the back pockets?  let's see what volvo has to day about this. 

[nycsurfer530 19,747]

7 minutes ago, heavydoom said:

so the duck canvas is the lining of the back pockets?  let's see what volvo has to day about this. 

Pocket bags, meaning front pockets. Back pockets should be normal. 

[bartlebyyphonics 10,091]

^ I think it means what the front pockets themselves are made with (rather than usual cotton)

[bartlebyyphonics 10,091]

and interest confirmed.

and size confirmed.

edit:

size: raw 36 with hemming for 83cm inseam post shrinkage pls

 

Edited June 29, 2017 by bartlebyyphonics
failed nerve...

[heavydoom 170]

ahhh, i get it now.  thanks.  it's the front pocket bag that is usually that white cotton but now made with the blue duck canvas. 

[heavydoom 170]

1 minute ago, bartlebyyphonics said:

and interest confirmed.

still vacillating over sizing.

when deadline?

july 15th is the deadline to join this contest.

[nycsurfer530 19,747]

7 minutes ago, bartlebyyphonics said:

and interest confirmed.

still vacillating over sizing.

when deadline?

With TCB I always recommend your your true waist size- not denim size. 

[Bobbo 7,967]

Let's do this! 

[bartlebyyphonics 10,091]

2 hours ago, nycsurfer530 said:

With TCB I always recommend your your true waist size- not denim size. 

thanks again

& tru that

I have a 36 in tcb 50 and is true 18 inches waist laid flat whereas have Lee 101 tagged 34 measuring 19 inches waist flat... (which are comfy, but always sliding off)

so my gut instinct is to go for the 38 and get the cinch into action to maximise tcb volume (and use waist buttons for the odd suspenseful action)

but good to know I have time to decide - thanks heavy doom for reminder / clarification

and yes

excitement level MAX

and thanks ed and volvo for all the sorting out!

and to the world tourers for the prelim action

[volvo240thebest 23,980]

7 hours ago, heavydoom said:

so the duck canvas is the lining of the back pockets?  let's see what volvo has to day about this. 

I can confirm that the others got it right mate! front pocket fabric = indigo duck

 

[volvo240thebest 23,980]

hey you bunch of uneducated peasants! not one single comment on the patch?!? I think it's one of the best patches I've ever seen, I'd love to have the same design on a tshirt.