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Posted

coleslawyum, how is the construction on those 744LTDs? Really dig that colour of cordovan and I'm a sucker for brogued captoes. Pity that I don't wear my Alden #8 jumpers more often for worry of beating them the F up - that's what my White's are for.

Posted

Sorry if this belongs in the questions thread but figured there was more expertise here.

Quick question, other than Alden and Allen Edmonds, who makes Horween shell longwings? Carmina? Anyone else?

Posted

Edward Green used to use Horween but I think they switched to the japanese cordovan tannery a few years back. Not sure if that means they don't do Horween at all though.

Crocket & Jones use Horween as indeed do Carmina.

Posted (edited)

After waiting since February, this is what arrives. Notice the vamp stitch run right up to the mock toe stich on the right foot shoe. They claimed they just hired new stitchers, but Russell's QC has suffered from their popularity. Returned a week ago and promised a new build by the end of October. When they get it right, Russell is one of the best quality shoes there is, but you'll wait a lifetime.

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Edited by morse9443
Posted (edited)

great to see you back, morse, but good god the finishing on those Russells is sloppy...

glad to see you're getting it corrected. hope they can make it right. And a shame considering a pair of those in suede is on my wish list.

Edited by xchen
Posted

the leather edges look really rough on those Russell's. Almost like a retarded 4 year old used craft scissors to cut the leather pieces.

Totally agree.

Posted

Hi guys. Long time.

I finally ordered the standard, standard semi dress. The one I wanted for so long.

I think it will be a great completion to my collection of SDs.

Posted

I found a lot of information and many posts on the M43 roughout boots, but not so much on the M42.

So I've been researching the M42 russet service shoes.

Would be great to see worn in ones and hear your opinion on them.

There is a US made version available at WWII Impressions made by Corcoran for 180$:

http://www.wwiiimpre...armyrusset.html

I guess this is based on the Munson last with a fairly wide toe box.

The leather is fully chromed and vegetable retanned.

russet1.JPG

200136tap.JPG200136heelbottom.JPG200136toe.JPG

I found these pics of worn in ones

shoes02.jpg

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They look pretty cool.

It seems they fit half a size large.

Then there are the high level Japanese versions.

One by Mash for 43,800 JPY

http://www.mash-japa...shoes/index.cgi

I couldn't find any info on how they are supposed to fit.

m42-450.jpg

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Then there's a version by Buzz Rickson for 52,290 JPY:

http://item.rakuten....intage/br01423/

I couldn't find any info on how they are supposed to fit.

br01423.jpgbr01423_1.jpg

Posted

A bit similar are the Bench Built ones by Stevenson Overall Company. However they are specified as Jump Boots here.

They're on sale currently, though only size 9 left. From nearly 43,000 to nearly 28,000 JPY.

http://item.rakuten.co.jp/rhino/stevenson_overalls_jbs/

I haven't found any info the leather that is used. But they're made in Mexico.

jbs-vb-1.jpgjbs-vb-2.jpg

And then there are USMC Service Shoes that similar to the roughout ones also have a lower toe and a sleeker profile.

I only found these at WWII Impressions, also made in the US. Not sure if also by Corcoran. Price 180$

Like the russet ones the leather is fully chromed and vegetable retanned.

http://www.wwiiimpre...mccordovan.html

cordovan1.JPG

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Then there are some lowe priced version.

One on ebay:

This one for $140

http://www.ebay.com/...=item35be63e715

It doesn't say where it's made.

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And one at Epic Militaria for nearly 90 GBP. They might be the same as the ebay ones.

http://www.epicmilit...n-service-shoes

serviceshoe.jpgservicebootsole.JPG

Posted

Corrected grain = ´polished´ leather, where the leather has had the top layer sanded off to even out any irregularities and had an artificial finish applied to it.

It´s often done to hide imperfections, so that lower-grade leather can be used. The finish is often highly polished, and doesn´t age as well as normal calf due to its artificial surface. CG leather doesn´t crease in quite the same way as regular leather.

Not all CG leather is poor quality, though; Church´s use a form of CG for their famous ´Binder´leathers. Personally, I´m not a fan at all no matter who it´s used by...

Bear in mind that I´m not saying for sure that the Sagaras are or aren´t corrected grain, having just seen a couple of pictures on here...

Posted

I had, and over the course of many years, wore out a pair of wwiiimpressions Russet Service Shoes. They are well made, though not in the range of high end footwear. I'd pick up another pair, if I needed one.

Posted

demonator

I correction about leather on sagara. sagara imperial using 4.5 – 5 Oz Calf Leather in colour whiskey and Goodyear Welted Construction. so you wrong man :wink:

Posted

what i mean is that leather on those sagara shoes are CRAP ( inferior) and is not calf looking fromt he creasing . but construction if nice can you understand english?

Posted

Regarding Frye boots, they are of a decent build for the price, but you have to deal with some unsavory details like hexed eyelets, distressed leather, and "antiquing" at the toe. When they leave the leather alone, they are fine.

Posted (edited)

My newest boots, a Woodsman from Quoddy:

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I wanted something different from the navy/brown/black pairs I have, so I went with a dark red Cavalier Chromexcel leather with a couple brown accents (tongue, laces, mudguards). Crappy cell-phone pic doesn't really do them justice.

Edited by cander49

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