I think that jacket isn't any of those things - it is a new spin but lands squarely in the traditional column as it goes to fits. The only non-traditional detail is the lack of chest pockets, which cleans up the lines of the jacket but otherwise, it's hardly trendy.
The hoodie is definitely the most "out there" piece but every other article isn't too far afield from what other Japanese companies are doing. But to your point - if you like traditional aesthetics, there are other, cheaper options. Still, I'm feeling this collection more than I thought I would for sure.