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Electrum

Gonna go back into cinch on saturday and blow some ££ on a pair of 1944's from this season..... sweeet!

Will be able to answer your two tone stitch yoke question.

Anyone else need any info (NOT sizing) on the 2010 season stuff, just let me know before friday.

.

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I went back into Unionmade this weekend, and they were nice enough to allow me to take some shots of the chinos (thanks Jason!).

4400202100_cb5afd1586_o.jpg

The wash is actually quite nice, no weird overly-dramatic whiskers or fades. They look pretty much like heavily used and laundered chinos. Very soft, I'll bet they're hella comfortable. I didn't let myself try them on.

Thanks Roy. I knew they were a reissue of the pair from 2002/3 (seepost few pages back). Always wanted to know - does anyone know why there is that belt over the top button fly?

.

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your questions aren't stupid.

1955%20vs%201947.png

from paul T's site. size 34W 1947 on left size 32W 1955 on the right.

That's a good comparison. So if farinelli's has the 2010 batch I should size up 1 on' the 47's for a nice fit correct?

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Electrum

Gonna go back into cinch on saturday and blow some ££ on a pair of 1944's from this season..... sweeet!.

Hey Doc, that's great news I'm sure if the '44 has your blessing it's gotta be tops and your money will be well spent -- sweet indeed, looking forward to your report. I dunno about '44 'yoke stitching' unless you're referring to stitching on the unknown production date 201 I got recently? However, I would like to know what weight the denim is for the '44? I'm sure it's 10oz. as per PaulT's 501 Guide, but not certain about this season since it's listed different from one store to another. Also, if you can find out production date or any other interesting tidbits regarding the current 'mystery' 201 that'd be cool too. Much thanks...

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ok thanks, Im done asking stupid questions. :o

I've been on this board for almost 3yrs and during that time at least 90% of the discussion is about sizing, so your question is not stupid it's just common and it's a question that ultimately cannot be answered because how a person likes their jeans to fit is unique to each individual. What works for me is getting the store to provide me with measurements. If they have the jeans that measure up to the size that fits me normally in raw denim I get them and they fit perfect -- no problem. Don't get lost in the confusion about 'this model is oversized this season' or 'undersized that season' cuz what people are usually talking about is tag size which I learned the hard way means nothing. In short, forget about tag size and go with actual measurements that you know fits you and you should be okay. Good luck...

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That's a good comparison. So if farinelli's has the 2010 batch I should size up 1 on' the 47's for a nice fit correct?

Recommendation: for the 47, size up one inch from your waist size

For the 55, buy your actual waist size.

In both cases, go by measured, not tag size because 2009 and 2010 1955 are made big. Sizing as suggested will give a fit as shown below, which is by no means slim.

For the 47, go by MEASURED SIZE only! Size up by one inch from your actual waist size if you want a reasonably trim fit (see below); two inches if you want a more classic fit.

I'm an actual 32 waist; I wear, surprise surprise, 32 waist in Lees, which are made the right size and sanforized (don't shrink).

I wear 32 tag and measured size in the 55, and 34 tag, measured size 33, in the 1947. The 55 are still a bit roomier - they're a generously cut jean, with a bigger top block. You can size up, as normal, for a fuller fit, like, say superscore's 55 jeans, here. Or you can get your actual waist size, it will stretch out after shrinking, and the top block will still be reasonably roomy. This is pretty much what our style forebears like Steve McQueen did, I reckon, if they liked their jeans more fitted.

The jeans shown below are 2006/2007 jeans, since when the sizing has changed. 1947 used to be undersized, 1955 were made true to size. Since then, the 47 are TTS, the 55 are made big. But as long as you check the actual, measured size you should be OK.

Sorry to regulars for the repost - but I can just requote this when the question comes up again. SO, if I haven't explained this clearly enough, let me know!

IMG_0903.jpg

1947. My waist is 32. Prewash waist on these was tagged 34, measured 33.

55front.jpg

1955. Actual and tag size 32. hese shrank down to 31 or so, but stretched back out, and even though they're nominally smaller than the 47, you can see they're still slightly fuller.

Downsizing

Some people suggest going true to size (TTS) in the 47. THis is possible, as long as you go by measured and not tag size but you are likely to get a crotch blowout (look above, you'll see I had to repair the 47, but not the 55). I think the 55 and 66 are better suited to TTS, or even downsizing, in which case you're reliant on the waist stretching after a soak, and might have to sit in the bath ,use a waisband stretcher, etc.

I've seen the 55 sized down even more than this, for a very square-cut, kind of skinhead vibe and they look great. The 1966 is also better for downsizing than the 47 - it's slightly tapered, and won't be so tight around the thighs.

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got myself a little goodie today :D,...

LVC S501 1944's

(will post pre soak pictures tonight,.... haven´t got my cam with me)

since i sold the 33's and one pair of my 55's to my brother i couldn´t resist on a brand new 44's :D :D

so right now i am down to 2 pairs again (not mentioned my somewhat pre-distressed ed-47 and some vintage chinos which i am wearing occassionaly )

the reason for me to stay away from a second pair of the bulkier 55's is that a trimmer fit (37' s or in my case the 44's) can look really nice with a certain kind of wardrobe....

i really wasn´t to much into the 33's due to that i personally could not stand to wear them with suspenders,... and in my opinion this is the way those should be worn,...

cheers

thx paul for the above post with the sizing information,.... very useful (sorry couldn´t rep, but i bet i will get another chance ;-)))

btw, do you have any good tips what i should do with the new 44's before first time wearing? just soak em, wash or whatever???

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got myself a little goodie today :D,...

LVC S501 1944's

(will post pre soak pictures tonight,.... haven´t got my cam with me)

btw, do you have any good tips what i should do with the new 44's before first time wearing? just soak em, wash or whatever???

If these are the new 2010s, I'll look forward to seeing the pictures. I've got a pair from a couple years ago that I like, but they've got some flaws (coin pocket rivets), fit kinda odd (skinny legs/ducktail ass), and I should have bought them with a longer inseam. Just bought a pair of 2009 1955s that I'm pleased with, and with the good things I'm heaing about the new 1944s, I may want to snag a pair.

Pre-wear routine for me (for all raw denim).... button up, turn inside out and run through the washing machine. We've got one of those front loaders that doesn't use a lot of water, and just tumbles the clothes back and forth rather than aggitaing the hell outta them. I put them in there on "regular", with a tiny bit of Tide HE, warm (I don't know many degrees) water, medium spin. When done I snap 'em to get the wrinkles out and straighten them out, then hang to dry. This wash gets at least 95% of the shrinkage outta the way and twists the legs. Once dry, I wear them for a day or two to stretch them out a little and make sure I'm happy with the fit, then I wash them again to get some more of the indigo out and cut down on the blue hands, then I wear them for a couple months before washing again.

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Personally, I always take the opportunity to give my jeans a first soak by putting them on and hopping in a tub-full of warm water. Put on some nice music and have a bottle of root beer handy while you sit for about 15 minutes. If you're really hardcore then you'll wear them until they dry.

BTW...there are pictures of my 44s around this site somewhere...

got myself a little goodie today :D,...

btw, do you have any good tips what i should do with the new 44's before first time wearing? just soak em, wash or whatever???

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Yup. I don't see the point of washing unless you really need shrinkage, so I always do a half hour soak unless they're way oversized, but then I like the crisp feel when they're new.

My mate Graham Marsh swears by boil-washing his jeans before he wears them - I loved watching him tell Maurizio Donadi, the new XX boss about this, he was shocked at such flouting of convention!

PS: Shorty's 44, along with fresco's old pair, are the tits!

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a big shoutout to all you guys,.. and thanks for the advices,....

i think i will go the "hardcore" route and heaten up my house to almost a 100 degrees, fill the tub and wear them till dry :D

if nothing goes wrong i am willing to post pictures,... otherwise i maybe have won a "free-ride" to the hospital,... it´s fxxxxxg cold around here :D

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Hey Doc, that's great news I'm sure if the '44 has your blessing it's gotta be tops and your money will be well spent -- sweet indeed, looking forward to your report. I dunno about '44 'yoke stitching' unless you're referring to stitching on the unknown production date 201 I got recently? However, I would like to know what weight the denim is for the '44? I'm sure it's 10oz. as per PaulT's 501 Guide, but not certain about this season since it's listed different from one store to another. Also, if you can find out production date or any other interesting tidbits regarding the current 'mystery' 201 that'd be cool too. Much thanks...

Electrum,

Yeah, sorry, it was the weight for the 2010 1944's you asked about, not the yoke stitch ( I think that was Sympathy)

I'll ask the Manager at Cinch about that and the 'mystery' 201's, although they must be just 2010 season, as they have the little white tag sewn into the inside of the waistband, and have new features not yet documented on the 201 thread ( trimmed waistband patch, arcs with a R/H drop and those odd rivets). Although the ones in the shop I looked at were 2007 season, they must have a batch of the new ones for sure.

So lookin forward to pickin up a pair of those 2010 '44's!

.

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i think i will go the "hardcore" route and heaten up my house to almost a 100 degrees, fill the tub and wear them till dry :D

if nothing goes wrong i am willing to post pictures,... otherwise i maybe have won a "free-ride" to the hospital,... it´s fxxxxxg cold around here :D

You won't regret it. It's amazing what a difference wearing them to dry makes- they'll look like you've been wearing them for a month or so, right off the bat.

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superscore,dont listen to roy6forallmankind and dont waste energy,use a hairdryer and dry them right on your body-thats hardcore!

but dont use it in the bathtub,i heard the result will be boring dead...

No, no no.

What you need to do is find one of those car-washes that dry your car with a mini-hurricane afterwards - and go thu in your convertible. Preferably a Porsche Spyder like James Dean's. THat's the old school way.

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bollocks.fill the bathtub,jump in,jump out,place yourself on a towel in front of an old black and white TV and watch Ready ,Steady,Go! at full blast.than wait til your father is running into the room shouting abuses to you.thats the mod-approved Quadrophenia way.

Oh,wait-your the father now? well,teach it to your daughter then like i do.

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bollocks.fill the bathtub,jump in,jump out,place yourself on a towel in front of an old black and white TV and watch Ready ,Steady,Go! at full blast.than wait til your father is running into the room shouting abuses to you.thats the mod-approved Quadrophenia way.

Oh,wait-your the father now? well,teach it to your daughter then like i do.

the best way for sure.

might be hard to find a b/w tv or a broadcast of ready stead go, so here's the modern version:

1) set computer monitor to greyscale

2) load up youtube of ready steady go

3) then follow the steps above.

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lol,.... quadrophenia,.... i watched that movie a feeled million times,.... back in the days when i was young and used to live in the "mod" szene,... totally mirrored out my scooter then,.... still own my beloved "fish-tail" parka and last week ordered this:

FAB28RUJ.jpg

can´t wait for it to be delivered,.....

" P-people t-try to p-p-p-put us d-own

Talking bout my generation

J-ju-just b-because we g-g-get around

Talking bout my generation

Things they do I-look a-awawf-ful o-c-cold

Talking bout my generation

H-hope hope I d-die before I g-ge-get old"

"This is m-my-my generation

My generation baby"

"Why don't you all f-f-f-f-fade away

Talking bout my generation

Don't t-try and d-d-dd-dig what we all s-ss-say

Talking bout my generation

Not t-t-try-ying to c-c-ca-cause a big sensa-shun

Talking bout my generation"

"J-j-just t-t-talk-in bout m-my gene-ra-ra-shun"

"My generation"

"This is my generation"

topimage.gif

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Turkey. ... from this season. Denim by Kaihara, as before. I was told this was the only raw jeans not made in the US, although as Shorty has mentioned, several other raw items, including that cotton duck pullover, are made in Turkey, too.

Thanks. It's interesting to me how close the Kaihara sanforized denim is to the Cone (XX60?) denim in my '66 501s. At the same stage of wear and after their initial soaks they look and feel amazingly similar for two different manufacturers and types of denim.

Man, i sure wish I'd kept a pair of mine from the late '60s or early '70s to compare. Not that they'd fit anymore...

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