Freewheelers, Bootleggers Reunion, Bubo, etc.

[Duke Mantee]

1 hour ago, vlad_III said:

Didn’t know that. Good to know they have length 30. I took 5cm off a washed W36 L32. I guess I have really short legs. 
 

I said ‘rarely’ and reserved for youth size normally. However the 51s are fairly often released in 30 (wash) length

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

Can confirm that. My 51’s came 30x30, it was a real treat to find that size from a brand like this and not need a hem. 

[vlad_III]

13 hours ago, AlientoyWorkmachine said:

Can confirm that. My 51’s came 30x30, it was a real treat to find that size from a brand like this and not need a hem. 

Not needing to hem is nice. Many options here in Tokyo and they all manage to mess it up one way or another. Including desolation row.  they don’t hem in store but outsource to some local place in Tokyo. Was quite surprised. Luckily Hoosier fixed that hem for me. 
 

your 30x30 must look really good. Unlike my tree stump 36x30. 

[l13902733261]

661xx

[julian-wolf]

^ This might’ve been covered already, but are those the Joe McCoy’s Bostonians? How are they?

[l13902733261]

@julian-wolf Material and comfort are top notch, worth a try if you paying for them in yen.

 The joining point of the upper and cork sole on the main pressure point of the arch started to peel off a bit, not sure if this is a thing on the original or just Mccoy using weak glue.

[Duke Mantee]

@l13902733261 @julian-wolf

I know Tokyo Sandal (RDT) and Zerrows have made a version that is stitched, and Yuketen have a version but what’s the benefit or upgrade here the Birkenstock boston?

Edited January 5 by Duke Mantee

[l13902733261]

1 hour ago, Duke Mantee said:

what’s the benefit or upgrade here the Birkenstock boston?

To me the silhouette on the aforementioned brands offering doesn't look right, I wouldn't consider any of them an upgrade over Birkenstock as a pair of lounging clogs.

Shame to admit I choose Mccoy's out of sheer prejudice against the brand image.

[julian-wolf]

@Duke Mantee Main selling point for me would be leather quality. I love my Birks, and they’ve lasted me just as well as any fancy stitched boots, but they don’t age nearly as gracefully and that’s a shame. You’re right to ask, though—definitely no need to upgrade from them on grounds of build quality, design, etc.

@l13902733261 Agreed that the silhouettes on some other versions don’t look right. These are the only alternatives I’ve seen that look better to me than the originals. It’s funny timing: just this week I saw a pair in S&S; they weren’t my size (I guess they were a special order that got returned), but I made a mental note to look into them later, then your post popped up the next day. Shame about the peeling. 

[lophophora]

just picked up a pair of the Yuketen Bostonians- as a religious Birk wearer, the finish of them is certainly an upgrade, but their “shape” is narrower. Not a 1:1 remake, but same “vibe.” Wish the birks aged as well. Curious to see these FW in person. 

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

On 1/4/2024 at 8:38 PM, vlad_III said:

Not needing to hem is nice. Many options here in Tokyo and they all manage to mess it up one way or another. Including desolation row.  they don’t hem in store but outsource to some local place in Tokyo. Was quite surprised. Luckily Hoosier fixed that hem for me. 
 

your 30x30 must look really good. Unlike my tree stump 36x30. 

I guess just another thing to illustrate that those of us who deal with Hoosier are fortunate to know about him. 

Can’t say if my 30x30s are objectively good looking, but they’re probably the best overall sort of timeless fit I’ve had straightaway. Mind you, I sometimes prefer something less conventional. But I’m in academia for a fellowship year and they’re my pair for that, so the wear isn’t too tough, and after just a few months I’ve started washing them a lot as I fancy a lighter pair. As far as fades go they won’t be anything to note. 
 

I think my 30x30 51’s are the only pair to date that I’d entertain buying the exact same thing again when they wear out. Everything else I’ve had, even favorites, there’s something about them I want tweaked and so the next pair isn’t a repeat. 

[LazyS]

34x30 here. I was expecting to just get the 51 over and over again until the  44/45-46, rb and 37 came out. I got kind of sidetracked and need to start wearing them more again. I think they turn out great with frequent washes. What made you decide to get the 47 instead the 51 @beautiful_FrEaK?

My 34x32 pair of 37s after being hemmed to 30 still feel 2 inches too long. Even with the cinch pulled all the way, belt and several hot washes they are still kind of huge and start to fall a little after stretching out and need to be cuffed. Similar to the blouse/jackets from the 30s and 40s Seiichiro mentioned 37 are waist overalls and the 44 were jeans. How did you size your pair @MJF9?

[MJF9]

@LazyS hey mate, I think the 37 denim stretches quite a bit with wear.  I'm saying that without having the precision of measurements to hand... however both my 37 jeans and 33 jacket feel roomier with wear than other denim I have.  It's not an issue and was useful as the one-wash jacket was quite snug when I got it and is better fit now.    

Regarding inseam length, I've historically been cautious with hemming (too many issues with early years bad hem jobs) so got my 37s unhemmed (same as other jeans).  I then decided I needed a single cuff... sent them back to Seiichiro for a hem-job I could trust (I hear the carbon footprint tutting)... even then I added a a cm or two to manage the risk... and they turned out well.  Measurements then.... Seiichiro hemmed mine at 76cm... I've been wearing them and not washed them since.... I'll measure them asap today and report back to see if there's been any change.... to be continued...

Update: so my 37s were hemmed to 76cm.  That was after I washed them thrice, including a 40C wash and used a dryer.  Currently touching 77cm after plenty of wear.  A touch bigger, but not much in the grand scheme and there's always measuring error.

Comparing waist size of WW2 jeans and 37s at W34.  Both after plenty wear, WW2s 44.5 across and 37s 45.5 across.  37s do feel like more spacious which I think works well.  Happy with both. 

Edited January 6 by MJF9
extra info!

[beautiful_FrEaK]

@LazyS I wanted the darker denim of the 47 over the lighter 51. And besides my CSF, I didn't have a proper 47 model. I think that was basically it.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

My favourite detail 😉

 

And the dark FW denim with my blanket lined DENIME Type 2

[vlad_III]

5 hours ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

My favourite detail 😉

Is that on both pockets? Never noticed 

[LazyS]

@MJF9 Wow they look really good I had wondered if you had taken a size down. Seiichiro had sent me measurements for the 33 and 34 for these. I went with my usual 34 assuming its how freewheelers intends them to fit. It feels pretty authentic looking at vintage photos. I may see about trying a 33 in the 42 when it comes out though.

Here's some photos from last spring when I first got my Deck worker parka and was trying the layering out. Parka is 40 and 516 jacket and after hood are 42. the sleeves are a little long but its better when wearing gloves.

 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

2 hours ago, vlad_III said:

Is that on both pockets? Never noticed 

Nope, just on the right. I don't think it's intentionally. Maybe ran out of thread or it snapped while sewing.

[Duke Mantee]

1 hour ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

Maybe ran out of thread or it snapped while sewing.

Exactly that

[LazyS]

noticed this wabi-sabi on my parka

 

[LazyS]

[MJF9]

Looking good @LazyS. Similarly I often wear the 516 with a thick hoody and think it goes well.

Both the WW2 and 37 jeans are loose on me which I'm cool with... plus that's what @Duke Mantee's belts are for

[LazyS]

Thanks! The full cuts are one of the things I love most about FW

Edited January 6 by LazyS

[CSL]

This comment doesn't apply to their jeans (which I really like) but I have to say I'm bummed that they seem to have defaulted to a tapered leg on all of their trousers. Speaking of the last pair I bought I feel the roomy topblock does not look flattering going down into a tapered leg. 

Edited January 7 by CSL

[l13902733261]

Speed Bug Jacket

[beautiful_FrEaK]

After one week I think I can share my first impressions.

 

Fit
When I received them, I wasn’t so sure if I will really like the fit. Despite the general trend and preference of high, higher and highest rise I am happier with highish-medium rise. Especially in the back as I think it looks more flattering on me. So around 16” back rise is my sweet spot.
After I washed and dried them, I put them on and they felt quite roomy and made me look bigger than I am (either that or it was the 4 kg I put on over the last 2 weeks). Especially the back and the backside of the thighs were loose. But after wearing them for a while and taking the pictures I have to say the fit improved a lot. They waist shrank a bit under 34” and the inseam to 33” so I expect some more shrinkage with future washes. In my mind, they fit like Marlon Brando's 501 in the "Wild One" from the side  

Denim
In my head I have a rather clear image of how vintage Cone denim would look like (based on other repro brands I have including LVC with Cone mills denim) and I would say this FW goes into the opposite direction. It is quite textured, neppy and slubby (in comparison to the aforementioned “vintage denim” I know). Also, the indigo hues are quite varied.
Without sounding too blasphemous it reminds me a bit of a light crossing of Sugar Cane’s 50/50 denim with some PBJ/Oni-vibes. The fabric is not too rigid and softens quite quickly. It has a burly feel and reminds me a bit of a rug, hence my correlation with Oni.
It will be interesting to see how it evolves (the faded pics let them look more natural/vintage).

Details
The sharper rivets don’t bother me at all so I will let them how they are. The copper backside of the buttons is a new sight for me and looks odd when you are used to the silver/iron colour of other brands. But it starts to oxidize quickly so the bright copper will tame down. The painted front looks cool. The fly placket is quite long (also something I am usually not the biggest fan of). Construction is totally fine so far, nothing to complain about and like I said earlier, I dig that double stitched front pocket opening on my pair. Some CSF-vibes 😉 Another cool detail is the puckering on the yoke. Something I don’t see but will surely look nice once faded. The narrow selvedge is also beautiful to look at. The pocket bag material is nice and sturdy feeling.

 

I think that’s all for now, here are some fit pics at my usual spot.

[Maynard Friedman]

Your back pockets look a bit blurry and slightly different to how they look in a different thread! 🤔 Other than that, I think they may look better with a longer leg/lower cuff.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

I have no idea what you're talking about

and yeah, gonna save those precious white shoes.

[Duke Mantee]

That’s as good a fit as I’ve seen on the 47s

[lee porter]

The back yoke always sticks out on my freewheelers jeans I really like everything else about them is this common thing on freewheelers jeans