The Flat Head

[Cold Summer]

Tee's a size 42, I ended up selling it because it was a bit too loose (you can see how it bunches up in the back, shoulders were too wide, too.) I might get some FH tees in 40 instead, I tried one on at a secondhand store a while ago and it was actually long enough for me.

I wasn't sure if SuFu would like this fit since the SuFu fit seems to be very slim around the waist, top thigh, and bottom. But I'm skinnier than most dudes with a size 31-32 waist, and sizing down in FH is dangerous, so I don't mind the looser fit at the top. If nothing else, it's very comfortable.

[shoreman]

Not a bad fit, CS. I still think 3005 would be even better.

[Cold Summer]

3005's similar in the top block but a lot looser in the lower leg, my skinny ankles can't handle such a wide hem. If I had engineer boots I'd go for a wider legged jean, maybe.

The only other fit that really tempted me was the 2015, it's similar to the 3005 but with a slimmer top thigh. Thing is, I'm not too crazy about heavyweight denim and the hem would probably still be too big. I love the white/red arcs on those jeans though.

[shoreman]

Well, that's what I'm saying. You're very lean ( read: super slim) and strong tapers or slim cut jeans tend to highlight that fact.

[niix]

BSPs for 150 bucks

http://supertalk.superfuture.com/index.php?/topic/133275-flat-head-se05bsp-34x33-250-obo/#entry2871665

[Sugar Mountain]

Great fit on those 3009s Cold Summer. I wish I'd bought that cut instead of my 3001s - the latter started off fitting so nice and now they're skin-tight, having shrunk with each wash. Bums me out.

[beeetus]

Damn. Wish my 3009s fit like that.

[spython]

Better photos of my SExFHxRJB15s. Color is very close to true but I had them tapered from the knee down so not very good references for original fit.

and fit pics:

a few more photos in album: http://imgur.com/a/1gcg1 but they didn't rotate right..

[Cold Summer]

Very nice!

If I could impart one piece of knowledge on all potential FH buyers, it's that just soaking your jeans is nowhere near enough to get rid of all the shrinkage at once. The sure-fire way to eliminate all the shrink at once is to give them an agitated soak in warm water (or wash them in warm water, with or without soap.) I just fill my top-loading washer with warm water and set the timer to spin for 5-10 minutes (the regular wash spin, not the high-speed one used for getting water out at the end of the wash.) I know this works because I did it to my BSPs on the first soak, and they never shrank the slightest bit after that (I soaked them a few times and washed them two times after that.)

[itsbenhere]

Spython, those are looking great. It's insane to me that those are pretty much the first evo pictures I've seen on those except for the model on Self Edge. I just pulled the trigger today, hopefully they're not too tight.... we'll see.

[spython]

itsbenhere - check out this forum for some good progress pics

http://www.darahkubiru.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=4150

[richiealexander]

spython

love the combs, and your button fade mate

[davidC]

Better photos of my SExFHxRJB15s. Color is very close to true but I had them tapered from the knee down so not very good references for original fit.

what keychain/bottle opener is that?

did not see it on tanner's website

Edited January 3, 2013 by davidC

[beeetus]

what keychain/bottle opener is that?

did not see it on tanner's website

It's a Corter Leather one. Not Tanner.

[Redstar*]

@spython

Saw your post on Reddit. Very nice.

[alzheimiray]

proxfh05 - 300days - 1soak

before

after

bonus fit pic

[morrissey.]

almost 5 months and this already happened on my FH F2001

[Trav e Martini]

Damn I want a pair of FH's so bad. I really like the arctuates. Is that weird? Seems like most people like a plain pocket.

[Cold Summer]

Not weird. IMO, Flat Head has the sexiest arcs - both the classic-style ones like on my jeans, and the F-arcs on all the export models. I actually like the latter a little bit more, unlike some people.

I wish that the other Japanese brands weren't so obsessed with trying to replicate Levi's and were more willing to develop their own unique identity (including unique arcs.) I guess a few others like Iron Heart and Strike Gold do that, but they're in the minority. While I'm sure they make nice jeans, if I saw of pair of Warehouse, Fullcount, or Denime at any stage of wear I couldn't tell you which was which.

Really, I've never cared for Levis that much in the first place and strongly suspect that what the Japanese amekaji brands and Roy, Ande Whall, etc. are making today probably complete obliterates anything Levis *ever* made in quality, fade, hardware, whatever metric you choose.

And Levis doesn't have some sort of intrinsic aesthetic advantage like Fender and Gibson in the guitar world - many small-company makers craft guitars that blow away modern production guitars by those companies, but because of legal issues they have to alter the natural-looking design points of their guitars that make their guitars look kind of wrong. Jeans don't have this problem.

[Trav e Martini]

Is there a consensus on 3009 sizing? Im a 30 in 3sixteen. never gone unsanforized before.

[Trav e Martini]

Not weird. IMO, Flat Head has the sexiest arcs - both the classic-style ones like on my jeans, and the F-arcs on all the export models. I actually like the latter a little bit more, unlike some people.

I wish that the other Japanese brands weren't so obsessed with trying to replicate Levi's and were more willing to develop their own unique identity (including unique arcs.) I guess a few others like Iron Heart and Strike Gold do that, but they're in the minority. While I'm sure they make nice jeans, if I saw of pair of Warehouse, Fullcount, or Denime at any stage of wear I couldn't tell you which was which.

Really, I've never cared for Levis that much in the first place and strongly suspect that what the Japanese amekaji brands and Roy, Ande Whall, etc. are making today probably complete obliterates anything Levis *ever* made in quality, fade, hardware, whatever metric you choose.

And Levis doesn't have some sort of intrinsic aesthetic advantage like Fender and Gibson in the guitar world - many small-company makers craft guitars that blow away modern production guitars by those companies, but because of legal issues they have to alter the natural-looking design points of their guitars that make their guitars look kind of wrong. Jeans don't have this problem.

also speaking of arcs, i saw a pair of oni's awhile back that must of been japan market because they had levis type arcs but they werent stitching, it was redline selvedge accents. oh and they had a red tab. they were pretty sick.

[aho]

CS, different strokes for different folks...In the end, once you get to the level of all our favorite denim labels, none is really better than the other, it's more about your personal preference/lean whether it's repro, repro inspired details on modern cuts, etc. etc. Myself personally, I lean more towards WH, FC and Denime and from staring/fondling their different fabrics every waking moment I could easily tell you which was which. I'm a bit on the obsessive side though...

I would argue however that the history of Levi's and the changes made to each pair over the years is fascinating to follow. Not to mention the variety of construction, fabrics (Cone history alone is amazing), etc. (I could go on forever)...Jeans in the standard "5-pocket" form wouldn't be what they are today without the research and "perfection" of construction and technique mastered by Levi's by the 1950's. We take the standard construction for granted but what many of the repro companies realized early on was the perfect engineering that Levi's had achieved. Every fold, seam, thread etc. serves a purpose whether it's aesthetic or practical and these techniques that Roy, Ande Whall, etc. utilize are based on the foundation Levi's laid.

In the end though, they're just clothes. We all like what we like and wear things accordingly. Just fun to geek out!

Edited January 5, 2013 by aho

[davidC]

shameless plug.

I'm selling a pair of 3001 that I bought in Japan here

http://supertalk.superfuture.com/index.php?/topic/144568-the-flat-head-size-33/

[1fookntitefd]

Thinking of buying a pair of f380's. My true waist size is 36. Any suggestions what size i should be looking at after taking into account shrinkage?

Bump. Some help guys?

[ProfessorOak]

x-post from evo thread

SExFHxRJB15

2 washes

June 2011-October 2012(ish); roughly 1 year and 4 months

[Cold Summer]

Yeah, I'm not denying that Levi's has a ton of influence in bringing us the five-pocket jean in its modern form; I don't mean to minimize their contribution to denim. I'm just personally less interested in replicating the same types of fabrics and exact details (arcs, red tabs), and I'd like to see more jeans like the Flat Head/Ring Ring and Roy models that incorporate intriguing new construction techniques into the mix. A lot of it is personal preference, I just find the types of denim made by Flat Head, PBJ, and Samurai more interesting than the vintage Levis look. I'm not going to doubt the wisdom of the guy with seven times as many posts as me.

Seems like a lot of people have bought/are planning to get 3009s since I picked up my pair; it's about time! I have no idea why it hasn't been more popular, it's probably the most flexible cut they've got since it has a regular rise, plenty of room at the top, and a small hem. I've never seen any nicely faded pairs of 3009s; let's thrash these jeans in 2013, Flat Head fans.

1fookntitefd, you're probably a Size 36. Since the F380 is the same cut as the 3009, 38 might be too big unless you have really big thighs/bottom.

[Danny @ Rivet & Hide]

Is there a consensus on 3009 sizing? Im a 30 in 3sixteen. never gone unsanforized before.

You'd definitely size up the 3009 to at least a 31 or 32 depending on how snug you like the fit to be

[shoreman]

^ Finally. Best advice from a retailer concerning this cut I've come across.

[setterman]

Yeah, I'm not denying that Levi's has a ton of influence in bringing us the five-pocket jean in its modern form; I don't mean to minimize their contribution to denim. I'm just personally less interested in replicating the same types of fabrics and exact details (arcs, red tabs), and I'd like to see more jeans like the Flat Head/Ring Ring and Roy models that incorporate intriguing new construction techniques into the mix. A lot of it is personal preference, I just find the types of denim made by Flat Head, PBJ, and Samurai more interesting than the vintage Levis look. I'm not going to doubt the wisdom of the guy with seven times as many posts as me.

The beauty of the Japanese brands is they're all doing things a little different, and cover all the bases. You want a brand that tries to stay as true to the blue jean heritage as possible, you got 'em. You want a brand that takes the 5 pocket jean to the edge with weight, slub, details, etc, you got 'em. And you have brands that do everything in between. I'd hate to see a brand like Warehouse, try to be Samurai, or vise versa. They all do their own thing (and appeal to certain customers), and do it well. And you sell brands like Warehouse, Denime, and Fullcount short. Their denim is on par and as interesting as anyone's without having to resort to gimmicks, or trying to be Levis.

[Trav e Martini]

haha i love rakuten's description of the 3009

I think they meant donut button