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postwash (2nd wash)

Rototo / TCB / Freewheelers / Canes / Warehouse... with a big thanks to another top bloke @Geeman for the sneakers

Jacques Marie mage ooe yofukuten railroad chore lady white tee ewing dry goods bracelet duke mantee belt (my oldest one from him) word of mouth contest jeans 411S clinch natural latigo engineers

prewash

One from the final ‘production’ run … and f-ck me it’s another one of those ACE buckles 😋 (note the humorous emoticon @Double 0 Soul), albeit I’ve swapped out their acrylic jewels for real turquoise I know this is isn’t my thread nor is it (was) my shop but I might do a little ‘class’ in belt making here - just something to let folk better understand some of the aspects, the shortcuts taken, the myths busted etc. Maybe it’ll keep the thread alive a little bit longer if folk want contribute or chip in some questions or queries?

Perhaps I’ll make another wallet for the last placed contestant! 😆

And he had worked with Samurai. (this has possibly been posted before somewhere on the site. But I hadn't been aware of it.) He had been fascinated by Samurai's original 15oz denim (I guess the otokogi). On a whim he asked Mr Nogami, whether he could make a jeans out of his denim and immediately feeling bad about asking such a question. The denim is of course a main component of a denim company. But to his astonishment Mr Nogami agreed. The results look pretty cool. It seems they were never for sale. Pictures from his blog:

So... to add a bit of spice to the #WoMCon, our very own @Duke Mantee has only gone and made this cracking mini trucker wallet as a prize. What you say. What indeed. Anyone who knows Mike will know what a kind, generous, top bloke he is... this is just another example... massive thanks mate!!! The wallet will be awarded as a prize to the contestant who provides the most posting entertainment over the contest duration. That's it. So it's posting and shenanigans ftw!! It'll be judged by @Maynard Friedman, @Duke Mantee and Simone. Maynard will kindly organise the vote and announce the winner at the same time as the overall contest winner. I now have that ^ wallet in my possession... and it's a beauty!!! Good luck folks!!!

Ridiculously kind mate … you clearly have no idea who you’re dealing with. Although I’ve not posted much, I’ve been watching competition closely. There’s been some great evo already and a lot of brilliant posts so it’s going to the wire to see who has pulled out all the stops … maybe we can add another prize

Warehouse... new to me... with big thanks to our favourite Brummie @Geeman (closely followed by Benny from Crossroads, of course)

There was a limited edition wwii jacket produced with samurai. Think it sold very fast. https://www.samurai-jeans.com/en/collections/jacket/products/os555xx-15oz男気デニムジャケット

WMJ getting some miles in the Lake District this week. I thought England was supposed to be cloudy and rainy?!

Incredible hairy denim, superbly finished. The jean fits perfect after the initial soak, honestly one of the best I‘ve ever owned.

66s have arrived from Bears today. Will shrink them in the wash this weekend. I was worried the rise might be a tad to short but they are measuring 12 inch FR and 16 inch BR for 36 size so think will be fine. Waist is big and hopefully will shrink 2 inches but prefer to have them a bit loose and wear a belt anyway. Liking the wee extras with these. Probably will use that tote bag a lot. Impressed so far

@vIGGiou riou it wasn't hesitation mate, it was lack of capital at the time. Anyways I have a pair of Csf 41's although they don't have arcs but I'll live.

I didn't hesitate ....

So what is he saying? I think there were jacket and jeans available at Barnstormer a few years ago. But they sold really quickly. And then afterwards there were events at the Barnstormer shop, where customers could buy. It seems he prefers to have customers see and feel his products before buying. Except for some items that he sometimes puts up in his online shop. He has interesting blog articles, always testing and researching more and more. Sounds great. I'm writing the following from the info on his blog to sort all the info for me. And it might be of interest to others here. He seems to want to stay close to the vintage originals, also in their cuts. Making jackets longer or narrower to make the silhouette more modern or fashionable is not his philosophy. The aim is to make his products indistinguishable from original vintage items, when one ignores the brand name on the buttons or patches. His first fabric apparently was LF44 (low tension 12.5oz denim). And then in January 2024 he came out with a new one, NP01. The NP01 is a much darker dyed fabric (original 12oz denim). Then in November NP02 he developed the NP01 further and changed its name to SO02. In November he also introduced another denim fabric, the SL01- a special order fabric made by the Okamoto mill in Okayama. He developed this denim in close collaboration with the president Okamoto. It's around 13oz. It seems to have as he writes on his blog "the characteristic bounce, elasticity, and stickiness of vintage denim, as well as a "dried-out feel." His trousers are all called S01XX (no matter where pre war, war or post war models.) And similarly for the jackets S06XX. The Okamoto Textile company has been mentioned on this board before, nearly 20 years ago.

Tender Co. x4 / Tezomeya / Duke / Russell + Family The elephant ear satchel is a huge hit !!!!

It seems we've had a recent and very much welcome expansion to our group of online denim-misfits.. @okimoto @Lorcan @Well27 @TripicalMidbooster @LoneWolfWelding and others.. (a belated welcome to the forum) but i can't help but wonder.. this doesn't seem like your first rodeo, have y'all come here from other denim fora or have or just been lurking for the last decade?

Another example of the 1943 with an UEKI's tab https://www.instagram.com/p/DJb1OmiuLyT/

@UkeNo I bought mine from Amazon Japan

Pollen Seeds

Snagged these 22501XX from @srudy last month, and by chance started wearing them on 5/01 day I love this denim and lucked out on the fit - they fit me as good as anything else ever has The cut is real good in contrast to the "22501" cut I had some years back - and at a tagged 34 they measure about 31" after a shrink That's barely 1" larger post shrink than the tagged 28 waist "22501" (a different cut but 6 tagged sizes smaller...) Not exactly an apples to apples comparison, but a WW2 501 jean under the same umbrella having such a massive disparity in sizing is... interesting!

Did some small repairs And some rust on the button

Post-wash (maybe no. 4?) The way these are fading is funny. I agree with the building consensus that they seem to have shed a lot of indigo right at the start and then slowed down to a much more normal rate, which I appreciate. That said, something’s still different. Almost all of my slimmer-fitting jeans end up with pretty much the same pattern of whiskers, and these still have very little to speak of in that department. Meanwhile, the outer-most yarns covering the hidden rivets are already wearing through (one of my favorite bits of aging on any jeans), which usually takes years for me. Maybe it’s the jeans, or maybe my lifestyle has just changed in the past year in more ways than I’ve noticed. I'll be really interested to see where they end up. Two issues showing up so far, one very minor and one less so: The yoke seam wasn’t folded great during construction (or maybe there just wasn’t quite enough allowance), and it’s opening and fraying a bit near the right outseam; and and one of the hidden rivets has come partially undone. Rivet failures have always been a real pet peeve of mine, since they’re supposed to be the last thing holding the jeans together, and a hidden rivet failure is all the more frustrating since it’s not one that’s straightforward to replace at home. Not a huge deal, in the end—it’s not like the pocket’s going to be falling off anytime soon—but it does feel like a shame.

Which should be lucky winner to be tagged in for work abuse duty? Top to bottom Warehouse 1930s triple stitch Cowboy Lee Repro Warehouse 101b Cowboy Lee repro Freewheelers 1922 jeans Freewheelers 1950s black motor psyclone jeans

Long time no post.. I’ve had these jeans for five years now. Just done their first repair. LVC 1955 Cone denim. The repair is almost invisible 570 wears. 16 washes. First wash at 175 wears.

Some more interesting items from his blog. On the shape of his jeans: "The s01xx is designed to be like the vintage 501xx, which has a smaller front and a larger back. Many of the replicas today have been modified to make the back bodice smaller and the hips look smaller. If worn just right, it makes the legs look longer and is very stylish, but if worn oversized, it creates an unattractive silhouette like a diaper." The diaper butt phenomenon has been experienced by many, I think. I don't really understand what he's talking about. It seems to be about pattern making and the right proportions. What has been discussed before: if you have a rare vintage pair in 30 it can be a challenge to make a size 36 from there. If you just multiply the different parts by 1,2, it might turn out weird.

Any suggestions of where to pick a copy of the recent Japanese ‘War Denim’ book?

Can take more detailed pics if interested. Just PM me. Haven’t come up with a price but I’m reasonable and we can work something out. left to right Warehouse (can’t remember if 1105 or 1101) but are tagged 36. Patchwork professionally done in Asia Waist ~17.75” Thigh ~14” Hem ~8.25” Inseam ~31” Samurai S001JP (lot18) tagged 34 Waist ~17.75” Thigh ~13” Hem ~8.25” Inseam ~31.5” Samurai S0500xx (lot10) tagged 34 Waist ~17.25” Thigh ~12.75” Hem ~8.25” Inseam ~32”

As they have hidden rivets but no cinch, and they’re not 44s, they’re either 47, 54Z, 55 or 551ZXX. I’ll go for 47s as the pockets don’t look pointy enough for 55s and the zip models are less common.

My summer wear & tear pair hang drying after it‘s initial soak. Can you guess which 501 it is 😉?

I would love see a DenimJunkie revival!

Celluloid has the S3100VX in a 33 waist (and also 31 and 32 if anyone else is interested) for the JP domestic price - no tabs or arcs though. Similar to Fullcount, I think that Celluloid may be the cheapest place to get Samurai stuff now after they adjusted their international pricing model. Ordering from them is pretty painless too. Samurai Jeans S3100VX Zero + Taisen Model Wide Straight 17oz Zero + Selvedge Denim SAMURAI JEANS 2025 - Celluloid Self Edge seems to have stock of both the 3000 and 3100 models as well - no arcs or tabs either though.

Thank you … thank you very much indeed. I mentioned somewhere here earlier, I’ve made a couple of hundred belts after hoping I might have made a couple - full stop … you (and others) put your trust and hard earned dollars into my project - I remember every single belt for every single reason, that’s my privilege

@julian-wolf asked me to make this for him It’s probably appropriate that the belts began and end here on the forum. I’m finishing off current orders, but the shop is now closed. Huge thanks to everyone here for their interest and support.

Really love the denim on these 47s. Very soft and stretchy. Kind of the opposite to what I was expecting from cones 40s type fabric but maybe that's my misconception. Could also be because they are well worn. Reminds me of the resolute 714s I had. I have some LVC 66 japan made arriving soon so will be nice to compare.

A guy is selling this nice vintage Lee 101-J jacket: What puzzles me is that it has an internal label that, as far as I know, should be from the 60s (with made in USA and the R mark only) but on the left pocket it has a label with R+MR (that is more 70s) when I was expecting R only. It has a 82 in the back of the buttons Does anyone know if this can still be dated from the late 60s? Was there some transitional period with a mix-match of R and R+MR? I own a 101-J with "opposite labels" R+MR in the internal label but R only on the pocket, it's all very confusing... Any help is appreciated. Thanks

Consensus on favorite pairs, fabrics, etc.? I'm completely new to this world, and other than knowing that the usual brands also release black denim versions of their typical cuts, I'm hoping to learn more

Ooe x Sunny Garden / Tezomeya / @Duke Mantee / At Last / Converse

Some fit pics. Throwing them in the wash now. Think they will form nicely..

This is the latest 1101 with a new denim worn just enough to show the fading. This denim feels more true to a Big E 501 than previous versions where a 1930s banner denim was used on a 60s/70s Big E model. This denim really reminds me of what I’ve seen on 70s Type 3 jackets, and I wish I picked up one of the Warehouse models

Nicked this from Workwearyears on lg - l'm positive this is an early Lee 101J from the 30s or early 40s judging by the shape of the front pocket and some other details.

So it started with Texture. Then Voluminous jeans with texture. Then Heavy voluminous jeans with texture. Then Dark heavy voluminous jeans with texture… anyway you know how it can spiral… I’ll do the Sugar Cane Hawaii post soon for further proof of that 😉 Anyhow these 17oz Samurai S3100VX WW2 model landed today… and they’re ace. They meet the brief perfectly. Great service from Daniel at DC4 in Berlin... and lovely hemming to boot... using actual Samurai thread so it’s all matchy-matchy… I’m going with one big 3-inch fuck-off bucket cuff... no stopping me... 😀

CSF-46s