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#41) Brass Buttons Jeans arrived in mail today. Crispy, imperceptibly worn, the pink Roy lettering is a nice touch (not sure that was ever on a production run pair.)

Display jeans came in

Old Nigel Cabourn joints, got them on sale from Speedway in maybe 2018 Really like the discoloration of the canvas at high-sweat points, and the way the tongue has held creases and the laces have worn through the taping

The reason for this is because years ago the common sizes for jeans were 28 to 32, but as people got larger over the years manufacturers stuck to the old sizing method which is to skip the odd sizes in less common sizes. Now the best selling sizes (in the west) are 33 and 34 (in Japanese brand sized jeans), meaning most companies should be making 35 and 37, but they don't.

The Flat Head SNK-01 Great kicks, would get another pair if I could. Buttery soft leather and solid construction. Not worth MSRP (at least for my use case), but they used to show up on Yahoo pretty regularly for like 50% off and at that point it was hard to complain

Hey I'm back so soon that I can see another one of my posts on the same page of the thread. I made a video where I go over every single Acronym Nike release and cover my personal collection along the way. I also touch on the new MSCHF collaboration. I have every Lunar Force 1 because I love that shoe so much, there's also a tier list near the end for my definitive ranking of every pair. I think I get mildly controversial with some of my opinions!

Finally trying a pair of these Sols sneakers, they're pretty nice! They actually made a pair in size 29 cm. this time so I had to try them out (all previous models only went up to 28 cm.) I think they're loosely inspired by Purcell's, there's 5 layers of rubber on the toe cap which is kind of impressive.

Mill Reef Gallop Oxfords, got these from Canvas in late 2020 Really cool shoes but they didn’t hold up great. Main complaint is the rubber at the heel coming delaminated and flapping around within just the first year or so; they haven’t seen a ton of wear since then

From what I can recall they feel pretty similar, but it's been a few years since I've worn Cons. They're maybe a tad wider in the toebox, but not by much.

And some Vintage Justins. Obsessed. And another pair is on the way (last shot)

I believe the pink stitching should be the same yarn that was used as the selvedge ID on his black seed denim.

Very nice. How does the width of the toe box compare with Converse?

@Broarkthose are clean fresh look *⁠\⁠0⁠/⁠* nice

@julian-wolf I remember seeing them years ago from Inventory Magazine (RIP), at the time they almost exclusively offered chukka style sneakers. Now it seems like they release one model every few months, I purchased these from Persica: https://store.persica.jp/en/products/vp128623-milk And you can actually look at all their previous models on the Persica collection page: https://store.persica.jp/en/collections/sols Not really sure about much info on the brand (they hardly advertise anything) but the quality feel in line with Asahi / Doek / Moonstar. Honestly they are probably a private label manufactured by Moonstar. The insole feels sturdy and actually has a little arch support which is rare for JP canvas shoes. Just received them yesterday and wore them to work today for the first time, pretty comfy so far.

Coupen in horse Length of the shoelace makes the knot comicly large lol

I picked up some Franks boots over Fathers Day and they arrived last week. I’m just getting around to posting pics now but they’ve been breaking in nicely since these photos were taken. These are the stock Wilshire model in Seidel’s Brown Domain leather

I’m contemplating getting a new pair of these Encinitas jeans. I’ve really enjoyed them. I’m not sure how much wear at this point.

^thank you so much for this @JDelage, I'd love to visit the Pacific NW, looking forward to seeing a lot more of the States all over. To answer various people's kind questions, all my UK suppliers are going strong and happy to keep working with me so at least initially production will remain unchanged and I'll be back regularly to keep on top of things. I am looking forward to seeing what new opportunities arise, however, so I hope I’ll be in the nice position of only making positive changes, as and when I can. In the meantime, I had another nice email in response to the most recent newsletter that went out, about Butterfly shirts and the new Weaver's Stock version of this design. The question was: "what’s the difference between a true cuff and a false cuff? I’ve heard that term elsewhere, but am not sure what it means. Here's my response, which might be of interest here too? Not sure if this is what other people mean by a false cuff, but I mean a cuff that is actually just a facing laid on top of the end of the sleeve panels. It’s what’s on all the Tender shirts you’ve had: A classic cuff, however, is added onto the end of the sleeve panels, and it’s this that I’ve done for the first time with the new Weaver’s Stock shirts: The true cuff just feels a bit more formal and elegant, while the false cuff is more workwear-inspired and a lot more idiosyncratic. I especially like how the fabric direction of the cuff (warp side-to-side) pulls against the sleeve (warp up and down), when the garment is dyed or washed.

Roy’s jubilee gets, very happy! The rivets on the sack jeans are so oxidized! The chambray is so lovely, faded but not thin.

my 220A involved in IIY4

My natural indigo 1880s were a bit grubby so I gave them a handwash. For those who haven't seen them before, this was pretty much LVC's last model and, more significantly, Cone's last new fabric, an 1880s nautral indigo repro, using indigo grown in the US. It's a bit dark and my hands are a bit shaky (hangover) but this gives something of an impression. My previous natirual indigo jeans included the early Levi's Nevada/Kurabo, the SDA, Sugarcane; this is easily the nicest fabric. Crocks quite a lot but doesn't wash out, lots of crinkling. These are close to the perfect place, so for the summer I've switched to my old 1890s single pocket pair, which are Kaihara fabric I think - nice, but the slubbing is far more regular, Cone really mastered a more random slub on what would be their last new Levi's style fabric. The other pic is the field that supplied the indigo, harvested at dawn.

Phigvel made a moccasin

Good point Julian, hadn't considered applying those. Another point I should've mentioned is that I've also been considering the JM Weston 180 loafer in beechnut suede. The JM Weston seem a bit more dressy and my style is more casual, but I saw some in person in Paris and they were really well made.

Getting a little in the weeds here, but looking to buy a pair of Alden snuff suede loafers. Is the LHS version (6243F) really that much of an upgrade over the machine sewn version (6221L)? The general consensus seems to be that the LHS version is higher quality, but I was leaning towards the 6221L given the rubber sole. Looking at photos online and it's hard to tell much of a difference. Might be easier to tell in person, but I don't have that option unfortunately. Generally I'm not a fan of leather soles, but most people don't seem to mind the flex leather one from Alden. 6243F: 6221L:

Here a few pics of my LVC 1947 fitting more on the relaxed side of things as I lost a bit of weight. Back to the gym now so should slowly start to fit the way they did when I first got them . Used to fit more snug all around 1947 is my favourite cut from LVC line I also have 1966 cone denim but the 66 the front pockets are too shallow imo. But prefer the width of the leg opening on 66 but 47 for me is better all around. I also like the fact LVC 501 fade slow I’m not one for super high contrast fades. Although one of my Edwin’s has ended looking that way. (edit been bath tub soaked twice before wearing minimal if any leg twist on this pair)

No name vintage engineer/harness boots just arrived. Have bought and sold a few pairs of engineer boots this year because they were either too bulky or too low heeled but found these last week and took a chance. Could do without the zipper but it allows for the elegant slimmer profile and the cowboy heel is a perfect height. The soles need new rubber and the heel caps are brittle but the fit is ace. Great patina too. These might be the ones.

Type 410 three pocket square tail shirt in Achilles' Heel indigo dyed 10oz cross weave denim... now close your eyes and say that again I ummed and ahhed over sizes and could have gone larger but opted for a shirt fit rather than shirt/jacket fit. I'd happily have another one in another fabric (top selection of fabrics kicking around) but would go a size up for layering. This fabric is definitely special, lovely 3D texture and wonderful colour. I gave it a couple of washes before wearing just to be sure to take off any excess dye (safety measure on my part; the shirt has actually had a wash after dyeing, and I understand that the dye is more firmly fixed than in a standard denim). The pics below are pre-wash, taken indoors with the light on...

1960s SEARS branded ACME Thunderbirds

Vintage Frank Thomas motorcycle boots.

MOTO #2121, due for a brushing

I think matching belt and shoes look good... they generally age differently so rarely stay in complete lockstep A colour match works too, of course But colour mismatches - such as black belt with brown shoes - look rubbish imo... and are only potentially excusable if you get dressed in the dark!