Tender Co. Denim

[akka225]

"There are other people out there doing that so well, that I don’t think I’d be able to bring anything much to add- what I’m interested in doing is looking at the kind of clothing that wouldn’t necessarily be wearable today as strict reproduction, but taking ideas from it, reevaluating how and why things were done, and working back to a new garment that maybe isn’t even recognisable from the original(s), but which share some common thought processes, and is interesting and wearable."

Do not most of the brands here use the latter process you described rather than strict repro?

[grooveholmes]

yes and no. you'll have to define "most". in terms of strict repro, i'm sure what he had in mind were clothing lines like lvc, lee, wrangler, buzz rickson, and japanese brands like real mccoys and dry bones who also do repro stuff. it wasn't an exclusive claim, just a statement of personal vision.

personally, i think william does it as good as anyone, as this thread and tender's clothes testify.

Edited December 14, 2011 by grooveholmes

[rodeo bill]

Dyed lambskin? What makes black sheep skin particularly special? I can't wait to see where this goes... This is like that episode of Dirty Jobs where he goes to a tannery...

These pieces are made out of black lambskin that retains the natural colours of the wool, so it's not dyed. Usually the colour of the natural wool isn't important as it's bleached out and redyed, but in this case I picked out black skins specifically.

akka, I see what you mean, and I guess that quote could be a bit ambiguous, but yeah, basically what grooveholmes said! I certainly didn't mean that no-one else is on a similar tip, although I'd like to think that for the people who like it, Tender offers something slightly different from a lot of the other repro/heritage brands.

anyway, back to some pictures!:

once the tanned skins come out of the vats they are carted off to be washed on one of these:

by this guy:

the skins are washed in giant cement-mixer-style drums, which agitate them and keep them moving in the water:

After washing to get the excess tanning liquor off the skins the backs need to be cleaned down. The back of the skin (the suede side) will become the outside of the garment, so it's very important it's reasonably smooth and clean.

This is a wet process, done on a revolving grind-stone, by this chap:

It's a very sensitive job- the skin is different thicknesses across it's length and breadth, and needs to be brought down to an even thickness, entirely judged by touch and experience. It was a really lovely thing to watch:

[rodeo bill]

here's a pile of skins after tanning and washing:

here are some skins that have been ground down:

now the skins are air dried, slowly so that they don't get too hard or brittle:

the skins are spiked onto nails banged into the rafters of the drying room:

Even with a nice slow dry, the skin will still be a bit stiff, and the wool a bit matted, so the next stage is to tumble them in a big warm cage dryer:

Now you have a lovely sheepskin! Depending on what it's being used for, though, the wool may be too long. For instance, Tender natural black sheep mittens are full length in the wrist but need to be quite a bit shorter over the hand, to stop them feeling like boxing gloves. To shorten the hair, the whole skin is passed through a rotary shearer, which can be set to different hair lengths. This is another skilled job, as the skin must be led in at the right speed and angle, and kept at a continuous tension:

[kayodic]

black lambskin looks interesting and i really enjoy tender thread lately, thanks for sharing the pictures!

i have tender hand dyed woad henley, fabric (loopwheeled interlock jersey) is so delicate and love it! (will post fit pic when i have time....)

[rodeo bill]

brilliant stuff kayodic and tigerprawn, thankyou!

Lineage of influence has just put up some first-look photos of the Tender Spring/Summer 2012 collection, along with a very nice little write up.

tender spring/summer 2012 collection

december 20, 2011

tags: mens fashion, tender

here’s a better look at the spring/summer 2012 collection from denim label tender. i featured a preview of this back in september (find that here) and now william’s been kind enough to send over some proper preview images of the collection which show the garments off properly. and for anyone wondering what william looks like, that’s him modeling his own clothing.

the most striking thing about the collection are the stripes which feature on jackets, shirts and trousers. the material used is actually striped mattress cloth, with a pattern that’s almost like an english hickory stripe. it’s eye catching and also typical of william’s work – thinking about ways in which to use different materials to create great results.

it’s not all about stripes though, as i said in my previous post there’s a new purple dye that runs through the t-shirts, jackets and jeans for this season (which looks especially good over dyed onto denim) and the original woad dye has been refined for this season too, giving a deeper blue than before.

i love the way in which each season has it’s own ‘signature colour’ if you will, and it’s fascinating to see the way a pair of jeans change due to the over-dyeing process as it doesn’t simple make them a solid colour. instead it mixes with the original indigo creating a subtle shift in tone that itself changes in different lights but makes for some stunning denim.

also new is the jacket in the eighth image which i absolutely love, it’s unlined cotton, woad dyed and also features real horn buttons with the tender ‘face’ carved into them. an excellent piece and one that’s worth hunting down when the collection goes on sale.

last but not least, william’s also been busy creating a pair of boots for the new season too. they’re a six eyelet high(ish) boot and because they’re made from natural leather, they’ll darken naturally with age developing their own patina with each wear. the ones i’ve tried on were sturdy but very comfortable and beautifully made.

another excellent collection from this gem of a label. i can’t wait to see what autumn/winter 2012 holds. for more information on the brand or to find your nearest stockist, go to the website here: tender co

Edited December 21, 2011 by rodeo bill

[Thor]

thanks greg and holmes for putting up pics, greg they're starting to look nice, but yes some more wear'll do them a lot of good

thor, great that you'd like a pair! Hickoree's is definitely a good bet. Feel free to email me if you'd like any more information.

Here are the woad 132 jeans from the last production that I've been wearing pretty much daily for coming on for 4 months (new here). They're coming on interestingly I think. Fading pretty slowly, but with a nice even deep blue. I patched on a thigh pocket a couple of months ago, which I've been using to keep my wallet in. Even though this is half the age of the rest of the jeans, it's fading a lot more already, and looking much more contrasty. I think with a bit more time that subtletly in the woad'll come out really special...!

Bill,

got my first pair of Tender, like yours above but without the side pocket obv.

They are beautiful , probably the best jeans I've ever had, and I've had some.

Hickorees sizing is way out though . Size 4 were a tight 34w, took some wearing whilst wet with a couple of books down the waistband to make them perfick.

Love them so much I just ordered the Logwood jacket from Okiya.

[rodeo bill]

^that's so great! I'd love to see some fit pics up if you get a chance. I'm sure you'll enjoy the jacket as well.

Tigerprawn & Kayodic it'd be brilliant if you could put photos up too.

[kayodic]

will do... it fits snug but length is a tad longer for me so i'm gonna wear it as "tunic" (i'm not that tall...)

also got it from okiya! (thanks rubyblue)

[rodeo bill]

Reposting this, I screwed up an edit... A few lookbook images of S/S12 with a lovely little write up on lineage of influence. Photos by my buddy Morten Kristensen

Here’s a better look at the Spring/Summer 2012 collection from denim label Tender. I featured a preview of this back in September (find that here) and now William’s been kind enough to send over some proper preview images of the collection which show the garments off properly. And for anyone wondering what William looks like, that’s him modeling his own clothing.

The most striking thing about the collection are the stripes which feature on jackets, shirts and trousers. The material used is actually striped mattress cloth, with a pattern that’s almost like an English Hickory stripe. It’s eye catching and also typical of William’s work – thinking about ways in which to use different materials to create great results.

It’s not all about stripes though, as I said in my previous post there’s a new purple dye that runs through the T-shirts, jackets and jeans for this season (which looks especially good over dyed onto denim) and the original Woad dye has been refined for this season too, giving a deeper blue than before.

I love the way in which each season has it’s own ‘signature colour’ if you will, and it’s fascinating to see the way a pair of jeans change due to the over-dyeing process as it doesn’t simple make them a solid colour. Instead it mixes with the original indigo creating a subtle shift in tone that itself changes in different lights but makes for some stunning denim.

Also new is the jacket in the eighth image which I absolutely love, it’s unlined cotton, Woad dyed and also features real horn buttons with the Tender ‘face’ carved into them. An excellent piece and one that’s worth hunting down when the collection goes on sale.

Last but not least, William’s also been busy creating a pair of boots for the new season too. They’re a six eyelet high(ish) boot and because they’re made from natural leather, they’ll darken naturally with age developing their own patina with each wear. The ones I’ve tried on were sturdy but very comfortable and beautifully made.

Another excellent collection from this gem of a label. I can’t wait to see what Autumn/Winter 2012 holds. For more information on the brand or to find your nearest stockist, go to the website here: Tender Co

Edited December 21, 2011 by rodeo bill

[grooveholmes]

I really like that jacket, too. Can we get some detailed shots of the horn buttons?

[flatpattern]

very very nice. that red striped jacket is beautiful.

are those striped pants a version of your bias cut trews? wow nice post, looking forward to this group.

cheers.

[rodeo bill]

^^thanks! I'll put up some detail photos in the new year, for sure. right now everything's back in production. Flatpatter, yes- bias cut trews in English woven (fire retardent) mattress ticking... more to follow!

W

[Mich]

Some exciting stuff it seams, the woad jacket does look lovely.

When will the new items be available?

[Snake]

Are those hobnailed boots?

[rodeo bill]

Some exciting stuff it seams, the woad jacket does look lovely.

When will the new items be available?

thanks, very kind. Things should start to appear around mid-end January. That jacket will actually be in the second delivery for most stores, but even so should arrive around mid-Feb.

[rodeo bill]

Are those hobnailed boots?

here's a closeup.....

[Snake]

Those boots look very interesting. Looking forward to your detail photos.

Also this

"The Trestle Shop is a new project, which will sell specially-made items parallel to the main Tender Co production, including experimental and unconventional items. Just as Tender’s name has more than one meaning, so the Trestle Shop will operate from the top of a trestle table, rather like a market stall or a spare parts bench in a locomotive repairs workshop."

William, love to hear more about this project of yours. I especially like the experimental and unconventional part.

Edited December 22, 2011 by Snake

[redragon]

Hi,

I bought type 131 (logwood dye) on a trip a couple of months back (in Berlin) but was unable to find any information on this jeans.

I remember the storekeeper telling me that this type is specially made for that store, not sure.

I am intrigue to find out more though....

[rodeo bill]

Hey William,

I got my type 351 in and I realized I'm going to have to shrink it since it hasn't gone through that process yet. Should I just give it a hot wash and hang dry to get the shrinkage out of the way or should I go for a dry too?

Hi Tiger, sorry for the slow reply. Belated Happy Christmas!

You're right that the ecru T is raw cotton and hasn't been shrunk, and as with any untreated T it will shrink down a bit with the first wash. To be honest I wouldn't worry about it too much- it'll stretch out again if it needs to. It'll shrink less if you hang it dry, and most if you tumble dry it. I'd expect it to shrink up about an inch in length and fit a bit snugger across the chest. I hope this helps, thanks again for getting it!

[rodeo bill]

Hi,

I bought type 131 (logwood dye) on a trip a couple of months back (in Berlin) but was unable to find any information on this jeans.

I remember the storekeeper telling me that this type is specially made for that store, not sure.

I am intrigue to find out more though....

Hi Redragon,

I'm really pleased you have a pair of 131s. You were told right, I did these as a special for Burg & Schild in Berlin, only in Logwood dye. There were less than 10 pairs made. The details are all the same as type 130, but the leg is straighter from the knee, giving them a slightly wider cuff and less taper. Please post some photos!

Speaking of which, here I am the day I went in to see Shane, Kay, and Tim at B&S to talk about this particular fit:

Edited December 29, 2011 by rodeo bill

[redragon]

^^

I will post the photograph asap.

It is really a different fit from what I am used to, coming from slim fit background.

I actually have a good fortune of acquiring this jeans as it is the only 1 in the shop with my waist size (size:3) at the time.

Will be wearing it very gently over weekends (rotating with another jeans).

[kayodic]

hey William, as i promised before here is my henley fit (woad one), size 2.

[redragon]

Hi Mr William,

This is the fitpic of type 131 as promised:

[darly900]

^Good fit

[grooveholmes]

Kay and red dragon-- great fits on both of ya.

[rodeo bill]

both fits look lovely! Thanks a lot for posting, much appreciated. Happy new year!

[grooveholmes]

welcome to the party. fit is good-- you're right about the length.

[rodeo bill]

looks lovely on you, thanks! I reckon you'll shrink some more out of that no problem over the next few washes and dries.

[rodeo bill]

here's a little series I put together of how I roll my jeans cuffs....

(not to be taken entirely seriously).

Free/Man kindly posted it, here's what they had to say:

William Kroll of Tender Co. has become a good friend of mine over the last couple of years. It's exciting to watch a friends both brand grow and evolve, especially when he has created such uniquely exceptional products. I highly suggest you familiarize yourself with the way he creates his hand dyed selvedge denim, the process of woad dyeing shirts and the intricate details that go into the chore coat– just to start.

The Tender Double Cuff is something he has fostered for quite some time, and it's a method I use as well. Some guys hem their denim to have little to no break, while others simply roll the excess length, which doesn't always stay in place. William explains a little about the Tender Double Cuff for you.

"The Tender Co double cuff allows more control over the length and depth of cuff, relative to how much you want to shorten your pants, to a regular cuff. Also it lets you show the hem of the jeans, which on Tender's jeans is double folded and lock-stitched, showing a little fringe of unbleached weft yarns. On a practical level, this type of cuff is less likely to roll down than a regular turn-up, as it's not a simple roll. Finally, I read a story once that cowboys on the prairie didn't want to throw cigarette butts away, as they might cause a wildfire. Instead while they were riding they'd put the cigarette out in their jeans cuff, using it as an ash tray. I like to think that the Tender double cuff is substantial enough that it could put up with this without the fabric burning through!"

TENDER Co.