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Tender Co. Denim


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^thanks :)

here's a T I've been wearing for quite a while, hand stamped with the jeans bag stamps, to match the size label in the back. These were done as a special for a lovely store in Kyoto. Loftman (highly recommended for anyone in the area)


I like how the ink fades out with lots of washes

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I'm in Tokyo at the moment, catching up with some of Tender's stockists in Japan (which is really fun:)). Look what's in the new issue of 2nd magazine.... Very exciting!


The new season's Ts are hand-screened with navy blue water-based ink onto the 1-piece cut 350 block, with rib at the hem. The illustrations are from 19th Century advertising plates, but with the text taken out, so they all have big spaces in them where the actual ad would have been.

The idea was that if you wanted an advertisement printed for your baker's shop you'd go to the printer's, who'd have a bunch of illustrations of loaves of bread ready, with spaces for your shop name. Kind of like the templates in a tattoo parlour. Then you'd pick your design and they'd fill in the writing.

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while I'm on that..... this is from a while ago (april), and I'd heard about it, but I've only just got my hands on a copy! A nice little shot of last season's dip dyed waistcoat, with leather buttons & hanging loop, a racer collar, selvage calico lining, and herringbone backstraps taken from an C18th piece of court dress


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Hickorees Hard Goods looks like they received some stock in the Type 130 Limited Edition Raw Canvas "Unborn" Jeans, just wished they did sizes smaller than 32" in the waist ):

Get 'em while they're hot boys.


thanks for putting this up! yeah- they turned out really nicely I think. My very good friend Emil (Mr Hickoree's) just sent me over some lovely fit pics of his pair, which have had a hot soak to soften up and shrink down to size



really nice photo of the extra-wide half-selvage outseam:


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thanks for the nice PMs:)

here are a few photos of my own short-sleeved version of the logwood-dyed henley pictured above at Burg & Schild. I've had this for about a year, and worn and washed it tons (at least once a week). It's faded beautifully to a soft and really warm grey-brown....







and paired up with my original pair of indigo-dyed prototype 132s, beaten up over 2 years of heavy wear, and my buddy Akira's dark-stained brown oak bark leather 'wire' buckle belt:


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what are those red jeans/ is that cinch that i spy?

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what are those red jeans/ is that cinch that i spy?

Well.... those are in fact these:


This is a new addition to the line, and one that I hope will stick around for a while. Technically, they're 'trews'. Trews are the precursor of 'trousers' (same word), and were perhaps the first full length bifurcated (split leg, as opposed to skirt) woven garment. Before this men had commonly worn woven or leather knee britches and hose (knitted tight knee socks), basically shorts and long socks, tied together at the knee with a garter. (Try saying britches & hose a few times fast and you'll have an idea of what I kept slipping into when I was showing these to shops:D)

Anyway, trews remain an element of scottish highland dress, and are traditionally made from tartan. What makes trews trews is that they are cut entirely on the bias (diagonal), and have no side seam. As in the picture above, they were originally worn very tight, and pre-stretch fabrics the best way to effect a tight fit without extra fastenings was to cut on the bias (biased fabric is stretchy- try pulling a piece of fabric straight up and down or side to side, then try on the diagonal). By cutting in one piece, without a side seam, you avoid extra fabric inlays over the calves etc, also importantly you retain the integrity of the tartan, which had important social significance,

So onto these pants:



They're cut (on the bias), without a side seam, from an English woven heavy canvas which I had piece dyed in a small vat, so that it had to be squashed down to fit. Because the fabric is so stiff it dyes irregularly across the folds in the cloth. The colour itself is mixed to match a piece of flowerpot from my windowsill (I actually chipped off a piece and posted it to the dye house). I wanted something akin to the classic duck colour, but a bit warmer and deeper.

The fit is type133, which is slightly lower-waisted and straighter-legged than either 130 or 132, and they have seat darts rather than a yoke. All the manufacturing details are the same as the denim jeans, although as a nod to their heritage there are no belt loops (belt loops and belts weren't introduced until the early C19th, I believe), instead there's a cinch back, buckled with 2 brass saddle rings, cast in England. These match up nicely with the lost-wax-cast brass button at the front.

I don't have a pair with me right now, but if people would like I'd be happy to post some fit pics at some point.

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so upset that mine don't fit me :( hopefully i'll grow into them soon!

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Close up of the weld dyed t shirt. This is taken under direct sunlight so it's slightly exggerated. You can see the uneven fading of the natural dye.

The upper chest area and the upper back is slightly more faded than the sides.




Just got the new French woad dyed 350 T. Color is amazing. Much more vibrant than English woad dyed version which I also love.

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