Sugar Cane Denim

[setterman]

whoa whoa whoa...We've all known Sugarcane was devoted to keeping authenticity (using the same zipper flies, buttons, etc. when they could) but is there actual documentation for them using the same denim? I'm not saying Gordon is wrong, I'm saying this is amazing if true (and I hope it is true!)...And if so, I wonder where they sourced all this denim from and if there is denim from other years just laying around!

If it's true, I'd buy a pair tomorrow! But the fact that they've been making these jeans a while (and would need a lot of fabric), that there's a pink rather than red selvedge line, and that they aren't advertising the fact that it's dead stock denim, makes me sceptical.

[setterman]

I contacted History Preservation Associates (North American rep for Buzz and SC) and they confirmed the 1966s are not made from deadstock Levis denim. SC has at time made runs of shirts that are made of vintage fabrics, but that's not the case with the jeans.

[cheapmuthafukr]

ok, so what is the denim? HP on thier site claims its japanese denim, yet sugar cane says its USA denim. if it was a new cone denim youd think that they would say that, and anything else wouldnt justify the price

[edmond]

yeah what is the denim on the 66?? come on spit it out

[cheapmuthafukr]

also, id trust gordon more than HP... just sayin

[setterman]

ok, so what is the denim? HP on thier site claims its japanese denim, yet sugar cane says its USA denim. if it was a new cone denim youd think that they would say that, and anything else wouldnt justify the price

All I asked was if the 66s were made of old deadstock Levis denim, here's the response:

"SC41966 aren't made of NOS denim, though we've had some shirts from SC made from NOS vintage fabrics."

[beautiful_FrEaK]

If the '66 would be made of deadstock denim it's quite cheap.

the '55 is made with deadstock zippers and thus is more expensice. I've read somewhere that Kiya said that the denim on those is also very special.

But deadstock? I highly doubt that

[tmadd]

ok, so what is the denim? HP on thier site claims its japanese denim, yet sugar cane says its USA denim. if it was a new cone denim youd think that they would say that, and anything else wouldnt justify the price

Everything I have ever read, or otherwise been told about the USA series is that it is Japanese denim, and the garments are Made in the USA.

Not sure exactly how signals would get crossed where Gordon would be indicating that the 1966s were made from deadstock fabric, but:

a) nothing I have ever seen anywhere else that sells them in the US, or Japan (including numerous SC catalogs) has indicated that the denim was deadstock, or made in the US

there has been 0 of the age based variance or just telltale signs of age you would reasonably expect from deadstock fabric across the many different pairs of 66's I have handled

c) the amount of 66s ostensibly in existence means that SC would have had to have an absolute fuckload of deadstock denim

d) A huge part of me at least wants to believe that if it was genuine deadstock, SC wouldn't be bothering with prewashes

I can only guess the confusion is at least somewhat based on the claim that SC is using the same looms the denim was originally loomed on "including a color and weave matching to the shade of blue utilized in the manufacture of the original 1966 dungarees with red-line selvage edge." (as per Self Edge).

[cheapmuthafukr]

http://thevitamine.blogspot.com/2009/07/sugar-cane-standard-denim-1947-1947.html

1966 - Tapered Leg Fit, 14oz American selvage denim, Made in USA

http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://www.sugarcane.jp/&ei=cldgS6isG4OVtgfuhp3ZDQ&sa=X&oi=translate&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CAkQ7gEwAA&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dsugarcane%2Bjp%26hl%3Den%26safe%3Doff%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US:official%26hs%3DLkU

SC41966"

通称『66モデル』と呼ばれているこのモデルは、1969年に生産されていた。 66 This model has nicknamed 』model is called the year 1969 were produced. 当時のフラッシャーに記載された Flasher at the time listed 1966の文字があることから『66モデル』の語源となっている。 『Letter from 1966 that there are 66 models and the origin of the word』. このモデルは、生地、縫い糸など附属からその縫製までも、一貫して米国内で行ったモデルである。 Model, fabrics, and even sewing縫I糸from the University, the model consistently performed in the United States.

生地には14oz.セルビッチデニムを使用。 The fabric is 14oz. Serubitchidenimu use. それまでのパンツは綿糸による縫製だったのが、この頃からより丈夫な化繊糸による縫製になった。 It was the pants up by the cotton sewing, sewing became more durable synthetic yarn with around this time. 加えて第一釦裏に“6”の刻印がある。 In addition one Button on the back of "6" in the inscription. ポケット地には“WAIST & INSEAM 8%”の縮みを表示するスタンプが押されており、それまでの打ち抜きリベットから、被せるタイプのリベットへ、隠しリベットはバータック仕様になっているところが“66MODEL”の特徴である。 The pocket area "WAIST & INSEAM 8%" has been stamped to show shrinkage of up punching it from the rivets, rivet type to sit, hidden rivets where the specification is a bar-tack "66MODEL" of a feature. ヴィンテージとして評価される最後のモデルの中でも、特に完成度の高い69年のモデルを基に、生地はシャトル織機によるセルビッチ付き14oz.デニム、縫い糸の化繊糸やリベットの形状、“6”の刻印、ポケットのスタンプや縫製の仕様を含め、その細めなシルエットまでも再現したのが、今回のSC41966　 MADE IN USA“66MODEL”である。 Among the last model to be evaluated as vintage, especially high-quality finished models based on 69 years, with fabrics by weaving shuttle Serubitchi 14oz. Denim, rivets and the shape of the synthetic yarn縫I糸, "6" mark, the stamping and sewing, including the specification of the pocket, but also to the reproduction of its narrow silhouette, this SC41966 MADE IN USA "66MODEL" is.

[Vinneus]

also, i hate to say it, but to keep with the "vintage americana" asthetic, "made in USA" is more of a logo than an actual fact... Toyo ans Sugar Cane is Japanese we all know that, the denim is most def. made there, the reason we all love it! haha maybe, although hard to believe, its sewn and constructed in the states?!?!?!

i think "made in usa" is the same as the polo man on your sweater... just my opinion.

[kiya]

The denim on the '66 is made in Japan, i asked the president of Toyo this question a year ago and that's the answer i received.

[edmond]

so gordon is lying?

[setterman]

so gordon is lying?

I don't think so. I think there's only honest misunderstanding, or incorrect assumptions being made.

[Turntabloid]

talking to gordon, he seems to think that the 66 use deadstock 60s levis fabric.

there is still a difference between "lying" and being misinformed/wrong, ed.

if you translate the texts on theses pages

http://www.sugarcane.jp/standard/standard02.html

http://www.sugarcane.jp/products/usa.html

it sounds (google translation) as if sugarcane just produced according to the old standards of american jeans manufacturing, which earned jeans the tag "made in u.s.a". if I look on how japanese manufacturers actually perfected that craft, I am not sure that this is a good thing. haha.

[cheapmuthafukr]

this si from the email i got

it does use denim woven in the US on old shuttle looms but doesn’t clarify it it’s Cone denim, I’m fairly certain it’s dead stock levi’s at that price.

Regards,

Gordon

[beatle]

The denim on the '66 is made in Japanese, i asked the president of Toyo this question a year ago and that's the answer i received.

therefore it's so hard to read it..lol

[kiya]

this si from the email i got

Yup, that's incorrect.

Not only is it wrong, but it's not even possible.

Cone has an agreement with Levi's that states that Cone will NOT sell loomstate (unsanforized) denim to anybody in the world besides Levi's.

[cheapmuthafukr]

dont rouge territory and left field both use unsanforized cone denim?

[kiya]

dont rouge territory and left field both use unsanforized cone denim?

Nope, all the Cone they use is sanforized.

[cheapmuthafukr]

so kiya, are they really sewn in the usa?

[kiya]

so kiya, are they really sewn in the usa?

Yup, they are. So is the 1947, the SEXSC02, and SEXSC06.

(SEXT11 was sewn in Japan).

[beautiful_FrEaK]

quoting BiG it's raw/shrink-to-fit

http://blueingreensoho.com/site/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=5792&category_id=&manufacturer_id=50&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=28

but maybe because it's an experimental fabric from Cone they are allowed to use it?

[tigerformula]

Nope, all the Cone they use is sanforized.

Left field uses japanese denim and rogue territory uses sanforized cone denim. I was pretty sure ande whall was selling unsaforized cone denim last year though.

[cheapmuthafukr]

from the sugarcane site

"The perfect duplication of the button fly model produced in 1969, commonly know as “1966 model” The fabric is 14oz. selvage denim woven in the USA by the old power shuttle looms. This model features slimmer, tapered legs, bar-tack on back pockets instead of copper rivets. It is sewn by cotton and nylon thread for more durability, reinforced with covered type aluminum-backed rivets to conform with the original 1966 model. A paper label, “6” embossed tack for front top button and an inside-pocket stamp describing laundry instruction are made custom to precisely match design style, size and dimension of the vintage."

http://www.sugarcane.jp/products/usa-0002.html

[kiya]

from the sugarcane site

"The perfect duplication of the button fly model produced in 1969, commonly know as “1966 model†The fabric is 14oz. selvage denim woven in the USA by the old power shuttle looms. This model features slimmer, tapered legs, bar-tack on back pockets instead of copper rivets. It is sewn by cotton and nylon thread for more durability, reinforced with covered type aluminum-backed rivets to conform with the original 1966 model. A paper label, “6†embossed tack for front top button and an inside-pocket stamp describing laundry instruction are made custom to precisely match design style, size and dimension of the vintage."

http://www.sugarcane.jp/products/usa-0002.html

If you're curious about the entire situation that went down with this last year call me when i'm at the store and i'll be more than happy to explain the entire story, it's not something i can put in writing, especially not on a message board.

The denim is made in Japan, the jean is cut and sewn in the US.

[7-eleven]

Dude these are sick, I heard they might make a model with a third leg next year (obviously just for a fashion statement). Super excited to get a pair of those.

uhhhhh, what?

[Wu Dynasty]

If you're curious about the entire situation that went down with this last year call me when i'm at the store and i'll be more than happy to explain the entire story, it's not something i can put in writing, especially not on a message board.

The denim is made in Japan, the jean is cut and sewn in the US.

Very very intriguing.

[lilldavid]

I've had these Hawaiis for ages but I guess they have like 6 months of real wear to them. I've washed them once. I think you guys already know that these jeans are really hard to photograph properly. this is just about as close as I've ever come to the real color:

click pictures for full size

edit more pics

[cheapmuthafukr]

66s still wet

[appfaff]

Nice fit Cheap!

Lildavid, those Hawaiis are great!