THIS OR THAT? (Use me for all your Should I Buy...? questions)

[Geeman]

I had a similar situation when I got my barbour, I've got the Dept B commander, small looked nice and fitted but with a jumper underneath was tight in the shoulder and armpits. I went with the medium and glad I did. No real stretch in mine but it's molded to me perfectly after wear.

[dude353637]

Hi All,

 

I am relatively new to the raw and selvedge denim scene, been buying for about 6 months now, and I am having a big problem. There are too many choices for me to choose the next pair I want to get, lol.

 

I want to hear from you out there as to how you choose. Right now I am going to get the Rogue Territory Stealth Stanton to wear to work. I am going to see if I can wear it and nobody realize it is jeans.

 

After that though, there are many other jeans I am interested in and am not sure what to shoot for next. Some examples of thoughts I am having are the Stevenson Overall Co 714, some pair from Ooe yofukuten, or just something really unique that I can find.

 

I love getting unique jeans and also I need to get something that is more comfortable in the top block. I like enjoying to wear my jeans without having to peel them off everytime I get home.

 

Any advice would be helpful, thanks.

 

I forgot to add one more thing above. Right now, I am very interested in getting a pair of unsanforized or loomstate jeans.

Edited March 23, 2015 by dude353637

[Bobbo]

^ Welcome onboard the Sufu ship! 

There are, as you've mentioned, tons of great jeans to choose from and not very easy to point you in a direction only considering a roomy topblock and unsanforized denim (though it is a good start!).

 

Possibly most important of all is the fit. You won't wear a pair that you're not comfortable in. Do you want a wider leg or slim? Think you'll wear it with boots, shoes or sneakers? 

Think a little about the weight of the fabric and if you want it smooth or irregular. 

Then there is the brand itself. You have historical repro-brands like the Osaka5, perhaps you like the idea of it being crafted in America or you would like to support the craftsmanship of a small company like Ooe or TCB. 

You can find bloody great jeans no matter where you look. You just have to decide what's important for you, what you would like to support and what you think you'll be comfortable in. 

[dude353637]

Thanks a lot, I really appreciate your reply. The problem is so many choices, lol. I've gotten a bunch of jeans from Gustin just because they go out there finding all kinds of denim. Well, they are cheap to, for the denim.

I really like the fit idea of the Stevenson 714 or the 3 sixteen classic tapper. I'm hoping more companies follow this trend.

I think the number one motivator for me is the denim itself. If it's really unique and something quirky about it, I get real pumped. That's why I bought the Oni Jeans 20oz secret denim. In one pair of jeans, I got so many aspects of denim that I find interesting.

Edited March 24, 2015 by dude353637

[garden gnomes in space]

I think you should look into Sugarcane Okinawa's personally.  A good straight fit that has really interesting denim, lots of details like lined pockets, selvage pocket bags etc.. and they dont cost a whole lot in the big scheme of things.  

[itsbenhere]

Buzz Rickson watch cap

 

 

Or...

 

Stevenson indigo dyed cap?

 

[Iron Horse]

I personally like the Stevenson one more. PBJ's indigo-dyed cap is similar and quite nice. 

 

Honestly, it seems like (at least where I live) the standard watch cap has been copied relentlessly and is kind of played out.

[shredwin_206]

I'd go with the Buzz Rickson. I feel like the Stevenson one would get super itchy.

[Bobbo]

I think you should look into Sugarcane Okinawa's personally.  A good straight fit that has really interesting denim, lots of details like lined pockets, selvage pocket bags etc.. and they dont cost a whole lot in the big scheme of things.  

 

Funny that you mentioned it, I was about to suggest the Hawaiis.

[dude353637]

I think you should look into Sugarcane Okinawa's personally.  A good straight fit that has really interesting denim, lots of details like lined pockets, selvage pocket bags etc.. and they dont cost a whole lot in the big scheme of things.  

 

I think that makes sense. I did some more research into the Okinawas and I can see that it has a lot of great character and now that selfedge was able to lower the prices on these. It's like the perfect opportunity to check it out. I really appreciate everyone's input with this. 

[Mikez]

Heya all,

 

A couple of months a go, I purchased my first pair of raw denim jeans, which are these: http://www.scotch-soda.com/us/en/men/lot-22-phaidon---ombra-nera-/14060785386_48-36%2F32.html. In hindsight, I wish I would've done some more research when purchasing raw denim, as Scotch & Soda isn't really a brand that's famous for its denim, but I'm still loving the fit and some fades are coming up nicely and more importantly, these jeans introduced me to the wonderful world of raw denim.

 

Anyway, at the moment I'm looking for a second pair of raw jeans, more consciously chosen. For my next jeans I'm looking for the more traditional indigo colour. After looking around and reading a lot, I found a few options:

- The ByBeatle Volume One (http://bybeatle.com/products/bybeatle-volume-one). Altough it's kinda dark, I really like the fit and I like that the brand is set up by a denim enthusiastic. Also, nearly everything I've read about the jeans was positive.

- The 3Sixteen ST-140x (http://www.3sixteen.com/products/st-140x-slim-tapered-heavyweight-brown-weft). Again, really like the fit. I also like the indigo mixed with brown. It really has that indigo colour I'm looking for. Besides, 3Sixteen seems like a decent brand to start with. ST-130x would be the "normal" alternative.

- Since exploring the raw denim world, I really like Rogue Territory. I'm not sure why, I just like nearly all items, the brand image, Karl, it being made in USA, the dedicated following (altough I imagine every raw denim brand having that) and the little details. And well, nearly everything I read about RT is quite positive. I really like the SK fit. So Rogue Territory SK jeans are an option too.

 

Ofcourse, feel free to suggest anything. I'm looking for selvedge jeans of high quality fabrics and crafting. Also, looking for a slim fit. I'm not sure what the advantage of unsanforized jeans is. I know sanforized jeans shrink less and that unsanforized jeans are the only true raw jeans according to purists, but nothing more. I like Rivet & Hide and Cultizm webshops as they have nice brands and clear sites, so I prefer buying from them.

 

Some thoughts

- So far, aside from Cultizm, I have not been able to find another EU webshop that stocks RT. As I do not want to buy from the US (customs can screw me, it takes long, returns are a hassle and really expensive) this limits my choice of RT jeans.

- Is 17oz to heavy for summer months? I live in the Netherlands and the temperature is starting to go up, but days that it will be really hot are fairly limited. After the summer I'll be living in California for half a year, I can imagine thick jeans being to much for then. So when looking at lighter jeans I turned to RT and the 11oz and 12.5oz jeans caught my eye. But the only lightweight SK jeans I can purchase atm are these: http://www.cultizm.com/product_info.php?info=p4242_Rogue-Territory-SK-Skinny-Tinted-Weft-12-5oz.html. I've read mixed things about denim coming from Cone Mills so I'm a little hesitant.

- Following this, I'm thinking about buying a heavier weight pair of jeans (17oz+) for the summer here and I'll just buy a lighter RT pair of jeans when arriving in Cali, as I can then choose all possible jeans. Good idea?

- The jeans I currently own are size 31 and supposed to be super slim fit, but their fit on me is pretty loose. So I'm thinking about sizing down one size when buying my next pair as my next pair is presumably going to be slim fit.

- I know 13.5oz is not heavy, but from the start my current jeans fealt really good. I did not really need time to break them in, altough the fabric has become softer with wear.

- I don't know if it matters, but I mostly wear sneakers (Vans or high Nikes), sometimes dress shoes, but I'm planning on buying a pair of boots complimenting my raw denim.

- Price does not really matter, altough I don't plan on paying more than 300 euros.

 

Alright, this post has become longer than I anticipated but well, those are the facts. Thanks for reading and hope you can help me decide.

[Bobbo]

Welcome onboard mate! 

 

Feels like you have quite a good idea of what you're after and I think you definitely should buy from Rivet & Hide or NoKipple if you want to order from a store in EU. Both Danny at Rivet & Hide and Gav & John at NoKipple will help you out with excellent service and they know their denim game very well. 

 

I'd like to mention a fourth option considering some of the things you like about ByBeatle and 3Sixteen: Steel Feather Jeans. Anders whom runs the company is also a massive denimhead that realized his dream of designing his own jeans. I own the first model and the only problem I had with it was that the fit was a little tight and the denim too heavy. When I spoke with him about the second round of models the fit is more generous in the thighs but still a nice slim fit. He also did 3 new fabrics for different preferences which are all middle weight. I guess the dealbreaker is if you like the traintrack backpockets or not.

 

Stevensons La Jolla also seems like a grand choice, The Flat Head pioneer denim is a piece of work and Beatle also knows her shit. 

 

I don't think you can go wrong with either choice, they're all damn good. 

 

Oh and 17 oz works okay in the summer, at least until the temperature hits 25 degrees, then I switch over to shorts. 
Well, that's my two cents any way. 

[Geeman]

This ^^

17/18/21 is absolutely fine for European summer months.

For my two cents worth, don't focus to much on one brand focus more on the fit it will save you money in the long term. You can't go wrong with 3sixteen as above, and Definitely give Danny at Rivet and Hide a call he'll give you some sound advice and guidance. 

[itschrisb]

Left field 17oz cone mills or 18oz collect mills. Can't decide which to do!

[Mikez]

Thanks for your replies guys!

Bobbo, I presume you're talking about the Steel Feather 21oz SF0121 that was too heavy? I read it will shrink 2" in waist. Should I size up?

[Bobbo]

Yeah, that's the one. I sized up one. I would go with SF0216 or SF0215 if I were you. 0216 should fade more like Samurai while 0215 will yield more vintage fades like Warehouse and such.

[givemefive]

Left field 17oz cone mills or 18oz collect mills. Can't decide which to do!

 

 

I'm deciding between 18oz collect mills and a japanese pair like samurai 710 or ironheart 666.

 

I haven't seen the 17oz cone but my last 3 pairs have been 14-15oz cone so I'm ready for something new.

[Sigur Rós]

This might help

http://www.rawrdenim.com/2015/04/defense-cone-mills-hems-haws/?utm_source=Rawr+Denim+Newsletter&utm_campaign=170f168f0b-Rawr_Denim_Daily_4_6_2015&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_0ae18d0e06-170f168f0b-324597621

[Sigur Rós]

Can't decide either to get SoC Valencia/La Jolla vs Ande Whall Mustang or wait for the SR#12? I'm after mid/high rise slim fit as my first single-needle stitched jeans. Open to other suggestions as well. Thanks

[Maynard Friedman]

I can't comment on Stevenson but I'd definitely recommend Ande Whall. I would buy the mainline denim rather than wait for a SR as Ande rates it very highly and that's why it's his standard roll. I will definitely buy some in the future. I currently have 3 of his SRs - 2 are left hand twill, which I'd been waiting a long time for and 1 is a grey pair, otherwise I would already have his mainline model.

[MileHighEvertonian]

Left field 17oz cone mills or 18oz collect mills. Can't decide which to do!

 

Chris, I've got a pair of the 17oz Cone Greasers (I think they're technically 16.7oz based upon the lot # on the pocket flasher, and so I think it's the same fabric used in the railcar x Old North collab). In any case, after about 60+ wears they are starting to become interesting. When I first got them, I found them to be super inky and dark, with a tight, dense weave, very starchy, and also fairly uniform outside of a few small slub runs. They are just now starting to get interesting, and more subtleties and character--they're even a little fuzzy/hairy--are showing through in the fabric. The blues in the whiskers and honeycombs and other high-wear spots aren't especially "electric blue," and so I expect them to evolve into a more classic blue jean hue in about a year's time. Anyhow, I'm enjoying them for what they are a heftier Cone fabric in a cut that I know and like. I suspect the 18oz Collect Mills are going to have a greater "wow factor," so it really just comes down to what you're looking for.    

[itschrisb]

Chris, I've got a pair of the 17oz Cone Greasers (I think they're technically 16.7oz based upon the lot # on the pocket flasher, and so I think it's the same fabric used in the railcar x Old North collab). In any case, after about 60+ wears they are starting to become interesting. When I first got them, I found them to be super inky and dark, with a tight, dense weave, very starchy, and also fairly uniform outside of a few small slub runs. They are just now starting to get interesting, and more subtleties and character--they're even a little fuzzy/hairy--are showing through in the fabric. The blues in the whiskers and honeycombs and other high-wear spots aren't especially "electric blue," and so I expect them to evolve into a more classic blue jean hue in about a year's time. Anyhow, I'm enjoying them for what they are a heftier Cone fabric in a cut that I know and like. I suspect the 18oz Collect Mills are going to have a greater "wow factor," so it really just comes down to what you're looking for.

Thanks man I appreciate the info! I picked up a different pair of jeans but I'm still longing for a pair of left fields so this belps!

[Megatron1505]

The measurement charts from various retailers are confusing the crap out of me, would the Samurai 711's fit similar to the Iron Heart 555's? Some charts suggest yes, others suggest no.

[itschrisb]

Can't decide either to get SoC Valencia/La Jolla vs Ande Whall Mustang or wait for the SR#12? I'm after mid/high rise slim fit as my first single-needle stitched jeans. Open to other suggestions as well. Thanks

I can't comment on AW, but I just picked up a pair of Valencia and they're the best fitting Jean I've ever had. The denim is beautiful, it's easy to wear right from the start. The details in the jeans are top notch I expect great things out of them. That being said from what I've seen of andewhalls you won't be disappointed with either pair!!

[Karasu]

Hey all, currently have tried Nudie Thin Finn, APC PS, Unbranded Tapered, and am currently working on a pair of Naked and Famous Elephant 3 weird guys, I got a size 29 and it turned into a pretty decent slim tapered fit but I was hoping to find a skinnier but still tapered pair of raws, Looking at Blue Owl since it's near my house and was thinking of going in once I have an idea of pairs I want to try. Have a budget of 250ish give or take. Been thinking of the elephant 4 in either a smaller weird guy size like a 28 for a tighter fit or maybe even the skinny guy if that would be what I'm looking for. Currently looking for heavier denim since majority of my collection thus far has been either light or mid weight. I'd love to hear your guys's suggestion on specific pairs and sizing for them based on the current selection at Blue Owl. Also on a side note recommendations for the same kind of fit but light or mid weight to rotate between when weather requires it in the upcoming brief season of warmness. It's a secondary priority however but would still love to hear your input. Thanks in advance all!

PS I'm willing to try new brands or not, just looking for the best pair for what I need.

[Sigur Rós]

Hey all, currently have tried Nudie Thin Finn, APC PS, Unbranded Tapered, and am currently working on a pair of Naked and Famous Elephant 3 weird guys, I got a size 29 and it turned into a pretty decent slim tapered fit but I was hoping to find a skinnier but still tapered pair of raws, Looking at Blue Owl since it's near my house and was thinking of going in once I have an idea of pairs I want to try. Have a budget of 250ish give or take. Been thinking of the elephant 4 in either a smaller weird guy size like a 28 for a tighter fit or maybe even the skinny guy if that would be what I'm looking for. Currently looking for heavier denim since majority of my collection thus far has been either light or mid weight. I'd love to hear your guys's suggestion on specific pairs and sizing for them based on the current selection at Blue Owl. Also on a side note recommendations for the same kind of fit but light or mid weight to rotate between when weather requires it in the upcoming brief season of warmness. It's a secondary priority however but would still love to hear your input. Thanks in advance all!

PS I'm willing to try new brands or not, just looking for the best pair for what I need.

Hi, I had a look at the brands, most of them a mid weight, n&f elephant would prob be heaviest. But I would recommend 3sixteen 130x, as it's closer to your price range, slim fitting,17oz and imo better quality.

https://www.blueowl.us/product/3sixteen-slim-tapered-17oz-selvedge-denim-in-indigo-model-st-130x/

[Sigur Rós]

And for light weight Japan Blue, 14oz, skinny.

https://www.blueowl.us/product/japan-blue-14oz-zimbabwe-memphis-skinny-raw-selvedge-denim-model-jb0206/

If you can spend a little more, can't go wrong with Momotaro's!

https://www.blueowl.us/product/momotaro-blue-owl-exclusive-tight-tapered-going-to-battle-zimbabwe-cotton-18oz-raw-selvedge-denim/

Once you go Japanese you can't go back

Edited April 20, 2015 by Sigur Rós

[Karasu]

If the momotaro is just barely out of bus

And for light weight Japan Blue, 14oz, skinny.https://www.blueowl.us/product/japan-blue-14oz-zimbabwe-memphis-skinny-raw-selvedge-denim-model-jb0206/

If you can spend a little more, can't go wrong with Momotaro's!https://www.blueowl.us/product/momotaro-blue-owl-exclusive-tight-tapered-going-to-battle-zimbabwe-cotton-18oz-raw-selvedge-denim/

Once you go Japanese you can't go back

If the 3sixteen pair is out of budget by just a bit too much do you have a heavyweight but not necessarily heaviest alternative? Not looking for the heaviest but the closest to my ideal fit but if the elephant 4s are my best bet I'll go for em. Love to hear more suggestions guys. Also if I do end up going for elephant4s should I size down 1 more than I did on my 3s for the fit I'm looking for or go for the skinny guys? And if the skinny guys how should I size on em? Thanks again in advance! Edited April 20, 2015 by Karasu

[Geeman]

Rule of thumb is size down 1 on SG and 2 WG as they are vanity sized. 

[Sigur Rós]

If the momotaro is just barely out of busIf the 3sixteen pair is out of budget by just a bit too much do you have a heavyweight but not necessarily heaviest alternative? Not looking for the heaviest but the closest to my ideal fit but if the elephant 4s are my best bet I'll go for em. Love to hear more suggestions guys. Also if I do end up going for elephant4s should I size down 1 more than I did on my 3s for the fit I'm looking for or go for the skinny guys? And if the skinny guys how should I size on em? Thanks again in advance!

https://www.blueowl.us/product/japan-blue-165oz-monster-skinny-unsanforized-raw-denim-selvedge-model-jb0212/