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Self Edge, SF/NY/LA/PDX - updates & info


kiya

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is there any way to tell if a shirt is loopwheeled? or do you really have to see the machine it was made on to know for sure?

Outside of handfeel and looking at the fabric very closely to see how tight the weave is combined with how heavy it is.. not really. Unfortunately with textiles there is no "this is how you can tell it's selvedge fabric", because there is fake selvedge which 95% of people on the forum wouldn't be able to tell the difference of even if they inspected the denim in person.

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is there any way to tell if a shirt is loopwheeled? or do you really have to see the machine it was made on to know for sure?

Outside of handfeel and looking at the fabric very closely to see how tight the weave is combined with how heavy it is.. not really. Unfortunately with textiles there is no "this is how you can tell it's selvedge fabric", because there is fake selvedge which 95% of people on the forum wouldn't be able to tell the difference of even if they inspected the denim in person.

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Kobayashi-san (president of Flat Head) is the only person in the world that owns loopwheeling machines which are capable doing a certain weight and feel of micro-ribbed fabric, the Japanese brand Loopwheeler actually buys their micro-ribbed fabric from Kobayashi. Flat Head are still the only clothing company i've ever come across which owns up to 65% of the machines which weave all their fabrics where as all other clothing lines don't actually own any machines, they lease or outsource production to factories.

those pictures are crazy, it looks like a 19th century version of an empire strikes back luke-arm-reconstructing droid.

so it's possible that nike is basically buying their loopwheeled fabric from an intermediary who bases their entire brand on doing something they're not fully capable of doing? that's so 21st century

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since when did Self Edge take out the selvage outseam on a pair of jeans when they hem?! I just realized my new pair of Iron Hearts are no longer selvage, after i got done with a presoak.

or is removing the selvage outseam completely natural in the hemming process?

I'm guessing you bought the 301s?

That jean is tapered from the inner and outer leg, it shows no selvedge outside of the selvedge fly and selvedge inner coin pocket detail.

Also, check the first line of the product page:

http://www.selfedge.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=71&products_id=408

Another note.. there's no reason to soak a pair of IH (their base line at least) jeans, you just wear them straight away raw because the denim is sanforized.

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Outside of handfeel and looking at the fabric very closely to see how tight the weave is combined with how heavy it is.. not really. Unfortunately with textiles there is no "this is how you can tell it's selvedge fabric", because there is fake selvedge which 95% of people on the forum wouldn't be able to tell the difference of even if they inspected the denim in person.

Could you show us a close up of fake selvage?

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kiya -

i was wondering if this indigo dyed studio d'artisan sweatshirt i bought was made by flat head since you mentioned that other companies source their loopwheel material from them? i think your site also mentions that flat head may have the only flatlock machine in the world.

the description of the sweatshirt said:

All seams are joined together with a special 4-needle Flat seam sewing machine that overlays the edges and allows for less seam allowance to reduce bulk for a cleaner more comfortable finish.

as i didn't get a chance to check out the flatlock seam tee from flat head, is this the same type?

shoulder

5014169786_bce63e7983_z.jpg

outside

5014129226_c0941da107_z.jpg

inside

5013520379_828d662ed8_z.jpg

5013517825_8f18e78069_z.jpg

thanks!

icon12.gif

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Lowrider,

I would have no idea if FH produced it unless they told me, i know for a fact that the only thing that they are the only ones which they produce is micro-ribbed fabric, like what's on the flatlock seam shirts.

Regarding the flatlock seam, they don't own the only machine which does that stitch, they own the only VINTAGE machine which does it.

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Lowrider,

I would have no idea if FH produced it unless they told me, i know for a fact that the only thing that they are the only ones which they produce is micro-ribbed fabric, like what's on the flatlock seam shirts.

Regarding the flatlock seam, they don't own the only machine which does that stitch, they own the only VINTAGE machine which does it.

thanks very much for the clarification!

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Iron Heart Overdyed 12oz Denim Shirts & Restocks

We had Iron Heart do a special run of their 12oz selvedge denim shirt in an overdyed version which starts black but fades over time to an indigo color. A great shirt to wear over time and see the aging patterns taking place in the high friction areas. With the overdye process Iron Heart does you can see the character within the indigo denim peaking through even when the shirt is new.

Along with this new shirt we've gotten a large restock of all Iron Heart jeans, jackets, belts, and also the selvedge chambray workshirts.

All these are available now at all Self Edge stores and in our online store. The overdyded 12oz denim shirt is a limited item made in small numbers only for Self Edge.

https://www.selfedge.com/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=71

Ihsh_27bk_01.jpg

Ihsh_27bk_02.jpg

Ihsh_27bk_03.jpg

Ihsh_27bk_04.jpg

Ihsh_27bk_05.jpg

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hey kiya when will you guys restock on the flat head bracelets?

We'll have more in mid-october.

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Could you show us a close up of fake selvage?

Selvedge actually has little to do with quality. You can have open-ended denim woven on narrow looms to produce selvedge denim, which, no matter how great or vintage the loom is will still produce crappy denim because the yarns are crap.

You can also produce ring ring non selvedge denim that will turn out much better than the OE denim that is selvedge.

I think FAKE selvedge denim is a meaningless term. It is either selvedge or not. That is, if we take "selvedge" to mean what we conventionally think is selvedge (the nice clean ends at the side of the fabric).

A lot of people who work in fabric shops consider the ends of all fabrics to be "selvedge." In which case, calling a loomed fabric selvedge or not, when it comes off a bolt, is meaningless.

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I think FAKE selvedge denim is a meaningless term. It is either selvedge or not. That is, if we take "selvedge" to mean what we conventionally think is selvedge (the nice clean ends at the side of the fabric).

There IS fake selvedge.

There are projectile loom attachments that can be bought where it weaves a selvedge edge (natural with a colored id) onto the edge of wide fabric which is not selvedge in any way other than the fact it's got a selvedge looking edge which 99% of people wouldn't be able to tell the difference of.

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