Word of Mouth - Finest Italian Overalls

[beautiful_FrEaK]

 

**Disclaimer**: This is not a paid review, but I did receive the jeans for free.

 

Whoever said that it's not worth spending on dozens of jeans and heaps of money might need to reconsider, because today, it finally pays off. I received this pair of jeans from the Italian one-man brand "Word of Mouth" to share my impressions.

 

But first, a little background about the person behind the sewing machines. "Word of Mouth" was founded in 2019 by Simone Sorgato, born and raised in Milan, and now based in Rome. However, it all really began in 2015 when Simone had his jeans repaired at Self Edge New York. Inspired by this experience and by videos of ROY and Ben Viapiana at work, the idea of purchasing a Union Special 43200G firmly took root. Initially, Simone only offered hemming services for jeans. Gradually, more vintage and classic sewing machines came into his possession. He familiarized himself with these machines and expanded his services to include repairs. Yet, his ultimate goal was to produce his own jeans. It took many trials and errors before Simone was satisfied with his work, but in 2023, he was finally ready to bring his jeans to customers as a one-man brand.

The brand name "Word of Mouth" is a homage to Jaco Pastorius. Simone himself is an avid bass player, which explains the connection.

Even though Italy is home to famous denim mills and is renowned for its fashion, Simone chose to source his fabrics, hardware, and threads from Japan. When it comes to denim, Japan is simply the Mecca. However, there is another side to the coin, as some people are skeptical when high-end or reproduction jeans are not made in Japan. I count myself among this group.

Therefore, I am all the more curious about how this Japanese-Italian collaboration turns out.

 

The jeans in question are the "411" model. The 411 is inspired by the Levi's 501XX from the 1940s, and this version includes the typical WWII details. This means there are no rivets in the crotch area or on the coin pocket, and of course, no cinch-back. The buttons are the classic donut buttons with the laurel leaf. The fabric for the front pockets is a green herringbone twill. Since Simone does everything by hand—such as hand-folding the denim—and because the old machines sometimes have their quirks, no two pairs of jeans are identical. To stay true to the production conditions during World War II, the seams on the WWII model are a bit more irregular compared to, say, a 1947 model. This is comparable to the jeans from Conner’s Sewing Factory, which are made under similar conditions (these are not intentional flaws as seen with some other brands). Simone finishes one pair of jeans at a time.

 

**The Fit**

As mentioned earlier, the 411 model is inspired by the Levi’s 501XX from the 1940s. Depending on one's perspective, it's either a regular straight or slim straight fit. Simone developed the pattern with professional assistance. The rise is high, but not as high as some other brands. Notably, the back rise is lower than in brands like Full Count or Freewheelers, a feature I personally prefer. The taper from the hip to the waist is not as pronounced as in the Sugar Cane 1947 or Conner’s Sewing Factory models, but the 411 provides more room in the hips than CSF models, which I appreciate as a European. For a size 36, the thighs are cut narrower than in the brands mentioned earlier, which might be a concern for some. The leg tapers slightly towards the hem but remains relatively wide. The front pocket openings are small but functional, and the back pockets are of average size, comfortably accommodating a smartphone or wallet.

Numbers say more than words. Raw vs. washed at 30 °C in the machine

Waist:                  36”                       33”
Front rise:           12.5”                    11.5”
Back rise:            17”                       15.5”
Thighs:                 13.5”                    12.5”
Knee:                   10.25”                 9.25”
Leg opening:       9.25”                    8.75”
Inseam:                34”                       31”

 

**The Denim**

Simone sources his denim from Collect Mills in Japan. Apparently, Collect Mills also distributes denim from various mills, and this loom-state denim is reportedly from Shinya Mills. It weighs 12oz, which is lighter than the denim used by many Japanese brands for their reproduction jeans, but it falls within the same weight class as LVC jeans. It has a pink selvedge line and is relatively soft in its raw state. There are subtle irregularities, with a bit of slub here and there, and the hairiness is minimal. The indigo hue in its raw state is more of a medium shade with a steel-gray undertone. According to the description, this denim is typical of the 1950s, so it's not entirely accurate for a WWII jean, which would have used a rougher and darker denim. Simone can only purchase 1-2 rolls of denim per order, and once the denim runs out, it's usually no longer available.

After washing it tightens up a lot and gets fuzzier. It has a very slight redcast. The denim remains rather soft after the wash.

 

**The Details**

The jeans feature the typical WWII details (or rather, the absence of them): laurel leaf donut buttons, missing rivets, partially unfinished seams, and front pocket fabric made from scraps (in this case, a green herringbone twill). All seams are sewn with yellow thread, just like the original. However, since Simone customizes each pair of jeans, I could have opted for different thread colors. Word of Mouth doesn't yet have personalized hardware like buttons and rivets, but for a WWII model, that's just right. The rivets are punch-through, as they should be. On Instagram, you can still see some older WOM models where rivets in the 60s style were used, which, fortunately, was not done here. The hidden rivets are rounded, as seen on vintage jeans.

The red tab is made of rayon, just like the original, but it bears the inscription "PIZZA" (unlike the original). The leather patch is made from vegetable-tanned cowhide, an unusual choice since other brands often use goat or deer leather. It has a very smooth texture, and each leather patch is hand-cut and stamped by Simone. It depicts two pizza makers tearing apart a slice of pizza, a twist on the two horses pulling a pair of jeans. The leather comes from an Italian tannery. The paper flasher is as humorously designed as the leather patch. On my jeans, it wasn’t stapled, but that’s a minor issue since it would be the first thing removed anyway.

The belt loops are slightly raised, which isn't typically found in vintage Levi’s but has become a standard in serious reproduction jeans.

 

**The Construction**

Five different thread sizes were used in the construction. As mentioned earlier, all seams were sewn with yellow thread, which is 100% cotton. Simone places great importance on the correct aesthetics, so the thread for the fly and front pockets is thinner. Combined with the 100% cotton thread, this naturally creates a potential weak point. To capture the feel of WWII jeans, the seams are not all perfect. Also, due to the hand-folding technique and the lack of ironing, the seams won't achieve the precision of brands like Iron Heart, but that’s not the intention. There are also unfinished seams and a few loose threads, but this is also intentional. One might argue that this approach masks the seamstress's shortcomings and sells them as a feature, but I believe that if someone gets machines from the 1920s to the 1970s up and running and adjusts them to their liking, their sewing skills will be more than adequate. Aside from that, the jeans feel solid. Only The buttonholes feel a bit loose, which might cause them to stretch too much and not hold the buttons securely.

After the initial wash, the seams start to pucker and especially the roping looks fantastic. Simone definitely knows how to handle the Union Special. The buttonholes also shrank a bit and it feels more secure.

 

**Summary and Conclusion**

Overall, the 411 is a pair of jeans that perfectly embodies the concept of WWII jeans, as we've seen increasingly in recent years. The feeling of receiving a deadstock vintage pair is well conveyed. However, Word of Mouth has to measure up against a brand like Conner’s Sewing Factory, which is a high bar. At CSF, only machines that existed at the time of the jeans are used. WOM has the same level of accuracy.
As a new brand, WOM is also dependent on "run of the mill" denim and doesn't have the option to use proprietary denim. Such denim comes with a significant financial risk, and according to Simone, he (still) lacks the expertise to help developing his own denim. WOM’s big advantage over CSF: you can order the jeans via Instagram without having to travel to Japan.

Priced at €340, WOM is in the higher range. In terms of concept, I have to compare WOM with brands like CSF Rebuilt and Ooe Yofukuten. Rebuilt and Ooe are both cheaper; only CSF is more expensive. However, Ooe works in batches, and not every pair of jeans is made from start to finish before starting the next one. Rebuilt also works in batches, but these are smaller and more variable, depending on the orders received. Generally, the low Yen exchange rate makes it harder for WOM to compete with the Japanese competition. Established brands are now available at unprecedentedly low prices. Then there’s the matter of brand provenance, as I mentioned earlier. Japan simply holds the highest regard as a country of origin for jeans, something even Simone acknowledges by sourcing his denim, hardware, and threads from Japan.

I was skeptical too, and for this reason, I probably would never have bought a pair of WOM jeans, despite liking the photos on Instagram. Therefore, I’m very grateful to Simone for giving me the opportunity to receive and test these jeans. Perhaps it will convince others to take off their "cherry-red Japan glasses" for once and try something new.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Pictures of the jeans

 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Pre-soak

After initial wash (30 °C machine wash)

[MJF9]

@beautiful_FrEaK excellent, factual and balanced review 👏

[tooth]

Awesome write up @beautiful_FrEaK. I have a lot of respect for someone who takes the risk and starts making jeans (or goes out on their own for any endeavor). The denim, construction and fit look quite nice. I personally love the ‘pizza’ tab. If you saw these in a shop would you be inclined to buy a pair?

Edited August 17 by tooth

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

Thanks for this.

The pizza tab! 

I don’t equate Japan with being a mecca in anything other than obsessing over details that I personally enjoy. When it comes to construction itself I don’t think they’re inherently better, I’ll confidently say that some of my earlier jeans from Raleigh (nc, usa workshop) and Companion (Barcelona workshop) were made every bit as well as just about anything I’ve ever gotten from Japan and in some cases notably better. I moved away from those brands because of things like pattern, details (including no cotton thread), lack of unsanforized options, and cost. Japanese brands tend to solve all of those issues. WOM seems to solve most of those issues, which is cool to see. 

If an American brand offered an unsanforized denim from proximity or Vidalia mills with a good pattern and cotton thread and classic details at something like a comparable cost (maybe I’d pay 10 to 20% more?) to Japan I’d love to try, for instance. But I haven’t seen it. 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

2 hours ago, tooth said:

Awesome write up @beautiful_FrEaK. I have a lot of respect for someone who takes the risk and starts making jeans (or goes out on their own for any endeavor). The denim, construction and fit look quite nice. I personally love the ‘pizza’ tab. If you saw these in a shop would you be inclined to buy a pair?

If I had seen them in a shop, yes. The quality is right there.

Of course, as @AlientoyWorkmachine said it shouldn't surprise anybody that in other countries similar jeans can be made. Somehow the vast majority of brands talked about here are from Japan though. I think, because besides Japan, there is aren't many other countries/brands doing these jeans. Where the seamstresses originate is another question 😉

[JohnM]

Nice write-up b_F.  Are there any jeans in your collection that you'd compare these to in terms of fit?  Maybe the Denime Original Line?

[Ahlvahroe]

They look great! The only thing i think they missed the mark on is the blank back pockets. i was expecting to see a pizza shaped arc, like these old real mccoys from back in the day, to match the theme. Either way, nice write-up. 

[indigoeagle]

10 hours ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

The belt loops are slightly raised, which isn't typically found in vintage Levi’s but has become a standard in serious reproduction jeans.

 

Do we know, when Levi's had used raised belt loops and when not?
Was this only in the war models?

I had a look at the pics on the TCB website.
On the vintage 30s (on the bottom) we can see, what looks like raised belt loops.

 

 

 

 

For the 40s/WWII model I can't really tell. In the first and last picture, they look raised. In the second one they look flat.
I think, the text on the left in the second picture says, that they are raised (中高). Not sure, though.

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

Pizza shaped arcs would be simultaneously silly and also might be a tipping point for me, because in the end, pants are funny. Even funnier is an interest in pants. Sometimes I wish my exquisitely made pants with such serious work put into them were a little bit more funny. Pizza and pants. Funny words. Amazing inventions. Taken for granted too often. Pants should nod to pizza. 

and yea @beautiful_FrEaK I think we talk about Japan b/c there's enough in Japan to sustain these businesses but outside of it we're just about the only ones in the world with the level of interest jeans where we are upset if thread isn't cotton or a jacket has handwarmer pockets or pick whatever counterintuitive detail you prefer 😃 

[vIGGiou riou]

great review b_F...

[Jeef1]

I’ve been wearing a pair of Word of Mouth jeans for a few months now. Mine are a 1950s cut. They are my most comfortable and best fitting jeans. I highly recommend them. And Simone is truly one of the nicest people to talk to. I hope he has a lot of success. 

[MJF9]

Good to hear @Jeef1... any pics to bring it to life for us? Cheers

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Simone knows how to use his Union Special 

[JohnM]

b_F, where did you hear about Word of Mouth jeans?  😉 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Saw him first on IG and shortly after, @Broark shared the info of him in our "non Japanese unknown brands" thread.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

On 8/17/2024 at 8:50 PM, JohnM said:

Nice write-up b_F.  Are there any jeans in your collection that you'd compare these to in terms of fit?  Maybe the Denime Original Line?

That's tough to say. The Denime XX from the Original Line have much more pronounced hip flare. The WoM fit closer to a pair of Ooe, even if the front ride is a tad lower. I think the Resoute 714 are similar in the top.
Although the thighs meaured only 12.5" after wash, it doesn't feel that slim (exactly like my Denime 220A). Other jeans with such a small thigh usually fit more restricting on me.

[JohnM]

^ 714, yes, that makes sense. Thanks. 

[Signet]

we do have them at the store!

[Alec Leamas]

I first spotted WOM on the Signet online store actually!

[Maynard Friedman]

I simply heard about them via word of mouth 

[Maynard Friedman]

WoM website

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Little update on the stretch

Worn 2 weeks
Waist: 36"
Front rise: 11.5"
Back rise: 17"
Thighs: 13"

[reallypeacedoff]

                             Pre-wash         1st wash            2nd wash       ~shrinkage                                        

Waist:                  36”                    33”                    33.5"              2.5"
Front rise:           12.5”                  11.5”                  11.5"               1"
Back rise:            17”                     15.5”                 15.5"               1.5"
Thighs:                13.5”                  12.5”                 13"                  0.5"
Knee:                   10.25”                9.25”                9.5"                0.75"
Leg opening:       9.25”                 8.75”                 8.75"              0.5"
Inseam:                34”                    31”                    30.75"            3.25"

[beautiful_FrEaK]

And stretched again out to 36"...

I think not 3 weeks yet?!

[UkeNo]

Is the verdict on the denim that it will stretch back to tag? That’s +/- 2.5” overall? 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Happened twice now on my pair, so yes. It can be done. Don't want to do it on my contest pair though. 

[UkeNo]

Good to know. If there’s a couple of inches leeway, sizing should be easy enough. 

Edited September 6 by UkeNo

[reallypeacedoff]

So what you thinking @beautiful_FrEaK for sizing? Going for 34 instead of 36?