Denime

[beautiful_FrEaK]

No, haven't seen a chart, sorry.
Honestly, I'm not very interested in the myriads of models Warehouse is pumping out now for Denime.

[Geeman]

Where can I find the denime type 3?

[frank]

2 hours ago, Geeman said:

Where can I find the denime type 3?

I'm sure Bears and Hinoya will have them in stock when they drop. Or you can just proxy from WH's website. 

[nick682]

15 hours ago, Alec Leamas said:

👀

Are these a different for or different than the previous 220A?

[Geeman]

6 hours ago, frank said:

I'm sure Bears and Hinoya will have them in stock when they drop. Or you can just proxy from WH's website. 

Ah not released yet, thought I'd just missed them. 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

9 hours ago, nick682 said:

Are these a different for or different than the previous 220A?

The 47 Version offers the new "Banner denim" instead of the XX denim the 220A uses

[Alec Leamas]

On 8/3/2024 at 6:14 AM, Geeman said:

Ah not released yet, thought I'd just missed them. 

It's up on WH website now: https://www.ware-house.co.jp/?pid=170861637

[yung_flynn]

On 8/3/2024 at 6:48 AM, beautiful_FrEaK said:

The 47 Version offers the new "Banner denim" instead of the XX denim the 220A uses

I'm really curious how different these Denime 220A 1947 are from the existing Warehouse Duck Digger 1001xx 1947 which also uses Banner Denim. 

Size charts look identical for the two after accounting for the expected shrinkage. Is the only difference that WH bleaches their cotton, while the Denime Banner Denim leaves it in its natural "brown" state?

As much as I like my WH 1947, I'm not really interested enough in the Denime 1947 at this moment to check it out myself since the standard WH inseams ultimately shrink to be a bit (1-2") too short for me.

Edit: The Denime 1947 is for sale on Warehouse's website now.

Edited August 5 by yung_flynn

[Alec Leamas]

39 minutes ago, yung_flynn said:

I'm really curious how different these Denime 220A 1947 are from the existing Warehouse Duck Digger 1001xx 1947 which also uses Banner Denim. 

Size charts look identical for the two after accounting for the expected shrinkage. Is the only difference that WH bleaches their cotton, while the Denime Banner Denim leaves it in its natural "brown" state?

As much as I like my WH 1947, I'm not really interested enough in the Denime 1947 at this moment to check it out myself since the standard WH inseams ultimately shrink to be a bit (1-2") too short for me.

Edit: The Denime 1947 is for sale on Warehouse's website now.

I'm curious too, and curious enough (and short in stature enough!) to find out first hand.

I'm in the process of ordering a pair so will gladly provide comparison when I can!

It seems to be the Warehouse MO to produce the series of cuts / patterns sequentially, and this time seem to be doing so with the material design rather than the pattern design.

[okimoto]

Very interesting, what's everyone's opinions on the unbleached/brown cotton? Have been waiting on a pair of 220's to clear customs anxiously😁

[MJF9]

Denime 10th anniversary 1937 pics (from c1998)

Just back from a hem-job... big thank you for a top job and service from @Mr Black 

With nicely patina-ing belt from @Duke Mantee

Interestingly, the belt loops are very lightweight denim compared to the jeans themselves... similar to the TCB 20s but even lighter

Spot the difference!  Original hem v new hem

Edited August 7 by MJF9

[indigoeagle]

They look very good. Coin pocket also seems to be placed higher. Probably lots of other characteristic details.

How would you compare them to the FW 1937 and the TCB 30s C?

[MJF9]

^ Thanks @indigoeagle.  I only have the FW 37s.  The most obvious to me is the lower front and back rises; around 1-2cm shorter FR and 3cm BR.  The thigh and leg width are similar - if anything, the Denime is a touch bigger.  The Denime denim feels smoother.  I haven't done a side-by-side comparison though and would expect there to be slightly different features... will try do that at some point.   

The sizing of the Denime is much smaller.  The Denime's are a W36, the FW are a W34 and the FW are still bigger in the waist and hips.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

The Denime look really nice though!😉

[MJF9]

^ deffo really nice jeans mate... your tip off was tip top! 👍

[Sympathy-For-The-Denim]

I'm aiming for a late 30s pair to be released by Denime/Warehouse. 😔

 

[Alec Leamas]

220XX-47’s arrived yesterday. 
First thing I noticed when unpackaging them was how light they feel in comparison to the 220A offset model. The fit plus the weight of those just was not for me, but the same cut/fit with this lighter material is much better. 
I’ve laid them out with 1000XX DSB and 1001XX banner denim to compare, photos not great but in real life the denim is fairly regular in texture, quite smooth and a really lush dark blue. It's overall really nice looking and feeling.
I bought these one-washed from Warehouse and also had them hem them, judging by the original hem these will rope to high heaven. (Ideal as my current obsession with getting the most imperfectly perfect roping on the hem is hitting a peak).

Not included a fit pic yet but the fit on me in size 34 I would describe as "smart", i.e. snug but comfortable through the upper half then straight down from the knee. The one-wash process (unsure exactly what process WH use) seems to have been fairly heavy duty so here's hoping these remain as a comfortable "smart" pair. There are some real "Ghost of Hayashi" vibes present.

Also noted the immediate presence of the trademark lightning strike on the coin pocket. These are currently in a cool wash, getting that hem nice and puckered (honestly it is an obsession), then I'm kind of spoilt for choice at the moment but once things cool down towards the end of this month I can see myself wearing these a lot. I'm interested to see how the fabric fades in comparison to the 220A fabric (as masterfully displayed by @beautiful_FrEaK!!)

[Maynard Friedman]

Nice write-up. If you want to really pucker those hems, just dip them in boiling water for a few minutes and watch the roping accelerate.

[yung_flynn]

1 hour ago, Alec Leamas said:

220XX-47’s arrived yesterday. 
First thing I noticed when unpackaging them was how light they feel in comparison to the 220A offset model. The fit plus the weight of those just was not for me, but the same cut/fit with this lighter material is much better. 
I’ve laid them out with 1000XX DSB and 1001XX banner denim to compare, photos not great but in real life the denim is fairly regular in texture, quite smooth and a really lush dark blue. It's overall really nice looking and feeling.
I bought these one-washed from Warehouse and also had them hem them, judging by the original hem these will rope to high heaven. (Ideal as my current obsession with getting the most imperfectly perfect roping on the hem is hitting a peak).

Not included a fit pic yet but the fit on me in size 34 I would describe as "smart", i.e. snug but comfortable through the upper half then straight down from the knee. The one-wash process (unsure exactly what process WH use) seems to have been fairly heavy duty so here's hoping these remain as a comfortable "smart" pair. There are some real "Ghost of Hayashi" vibes present.

Also noted the immediate presence of the trademark lightning strike on the coin pocket. These are currently in a cool wash, getting that hem nice and puckered (honestly it is an obsession), then I'm kind of spoilt for choice at the moment but once things cool down towards the end of this month I can see myself wearing these a lot. I'm interested to see how the fabric fades in comparison to the 220A fabric (as masterfully displayed by @beautiful_FrEaK!!)

Thanks for the write-up! I really love my Warehouse 1947 pair, so I'm curious how these develop. Banner Denim is a fun textural journey over time. It's easy to forget how gritty and coarse the denim felt once they get much smoother over time

[nick682]

I received my pair of the 220XX last night that I ordered from Bears. I did 1 soak so far and will throw them in the washing machine here in the next few days. 

I haven't tried them on yet, but they do seem a little bit bigger than the 220A pair I got in a size 31 - which is good because the 220A size 31 are too tight for me after shrinking them.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Thanks for your impressions guys! Curious how these will fade. I already found the denim of the 220A to be thinner than the old XX denim. But a ~13oz denim like the '47 denim will be better all year 'round.

[yung_flynn]

3 hours ago, Alec Leamas said:

Also noted the immediate presence of the trademark lightning strike on the coin pocket.

This always has interested me with Warehouse denim. I'm pretty sure that it is due to the perpendicular orientation of the denim direction in the coin pocket relative to the underlying denim, which should give a lot of shear stress during the washing process

[tooth]

Seems like there’s a lot more than just orientation of denim direction that leads to the ‘lightning’ effect, but that’s just a guess.

Thinking about denim weave, tension during weave, thread thickness, stitch thickness used when stitching coin pocket to main pocket (where stitches land, if there’s a subtle crease in coin pocket denim), etc, all may contribute.

[Dr_Heech]

Don't forget the shrink factor. Here for example is a pair of late 60's 501's,  the denim shrunk 8% and the result is these creases.

Sorry for the pic quality, just screenshotted this from lnsta. 

 

[yung_flynn]

I agree that there are probably many contributing factors, but I do think that the relative denim direction in the coin pocket area is a key parameter particularly after accounting for the primary direction of shrinkage as a result of the difference in orientation. It's noticeable if you scroll through Warehouse's sample photos. Both the Duck Digger 1947 versions of the 1001xx and the standard 1001xx use the same denim. However, the 1947 version with its perpendicular coin pocket orientation almost always has a pronounced vertical coin pocket lightning fade, while the standard 1001xx with its parallel orientation does not (at least in the WH provided sample photos). The Denime 1947 seems to be oriented like the Duck Digger and has a similar lightning nbolt

[blooming]

I always keep a Zippo in my coin pocket, so the only fades I ever see there are a high contrast rectangle 😆

[Maynard Friedman]

27 minutes ago, blooming said:

I always keep a Zippo in my coin pocket, so the only fades I ever see there are a high contrast rectangle 😆

Is it a little lighter there?

[blooming]

55 minutes ago, Maynard Friedman said:

Is it a little lighter there?

💀

[tooth]

Looking at your @yung_flynn comparison photo, it's interesting that the 1947 pair has lightning and roping on the top edge, but really no puckering on the outside seams under the rivets. The Warehouse pair below (not sure which model, but maybe one that you mention?) has puckering on the outside seams, but no roping or lightning from the top edge.

I can confirm this with the pairs I have. From left to right Warehouse S1000XX, Denime 220A, Warehouse 800 and Warehouse 1947 Duck Digger - all in different states of wear (obviously). The denims used for the pocket and coin pocket in S1000XX, 220A and 800 have denim facing the same direction and show what I mention above as having puckering on outside edges, but a pretty flat top edge with no roping / lightning. The 1947 (although mine are hardly worn) has perpendicular overlapping denim (as you also state) and I can see some tension from the top edge that may lead to the lightning and roping. I think @Dr_Heech is right that shrinking plays a huge role; as the denim shrinks in different directions and pulls at the coin pocket differently throughout, it's going to inherently cause different results when it comes to fading, puckering, roping, lightning, etc.

Edited August 15 by tooth

[yung_flynn]

3 hours ago, tooth said:

it's interesting that the 1947 pair has lightning and roping on the top edge, but really no puckering on the outside seams under the rivets. The Warehouse pair below (not sure which model, but maybe one that you mention?) has puckering on the outside seams, but no roping or lightning from the top edge.

The WH 1947 is a bit weird because the top of the coin pocket has a lock stitch, while the standard 1001xx has a selvedge which probably explains their difference in puckering. The new Denime 1947 also appears to be a lockstitch at the top of the coin pocket, but I can't quite tell from stock photos. I think that for a given denim though, lightning fades might be more pronounced when the coin pocket denim shrinks in the direction perpendicular to the shrinkage in the underlying denim as this would place the coin pocket denim under the most stress. 
 

To your original point though, I think that you are right and that certain denims will show this effect more than others depending on yarn choice, weave tension, etc. 

Edited August 16 by yung_flynn