Jump to content

Standard & Strange / Oakland CA / Info, Updates, Etc


Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
We made some boots with Wesco!



For two of the three boots we're offering, we sourced a leather exclusive to us.  After many rounds of samples and discussion with Wesco and our tannery, we landed on the Waxy Sage Roughout to build the Bigum shoe and the Heinold boot.  


The Bigum is a JH Classic in a single 360-degree stitchdown construction sitting on a Vibram 1010 Armor-tred outsole with a natural midsole.  Easy-wearing, and goes with pretty much everything.  Bigum's Silver Lion was a dive bar just across the street from our location in Oakland, and somewhere we'd surely still be pulling up a stool if it were around these days.






The Heinold is the Packer boot, built up on the 1339 Motor Patrol last, both for sleekness, and because the toe shape makes it easier to shift on the motorbike.   Double-stitchdown construction for durability, with one lift removed from the heel, all sitting on the 269 outsole, it's a less-aggressive boot perfect for kicking around town.  The name is from Heinold's First and Last Chance Saloon down in Jack London Square, another Oakland drinking establishment we like to haunt.




The last style we're running is a 1930s style engineer boot  straight from the Wesco archives - we're calling it the Van Cleef after the Cafe Van Kleef just down the street from us.  We're natural veg-tan leather obsessed so we decided to make up the Wesco Boss in this leather so it would age and patina with use.  The Van Cleef features triple needle stitching on the vamp and heel counter, double needle stitching on the top of the shaft, and our favorite - vee stitching on the back stays.  The Vibram 705 outsole keeps things connected to the ground.



Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is there a reason why Ooe Yofukuten isn't visible on your 'Brands' section anymore?


That's weird...  We definitely are still making stuff with them!


We only have one pair of OA02XX left in size 40 right now, so maybe the website is upset.   There's a big box of something special coming our way from them right now, so keep an eye out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ooe Yofukuten is the most special brand in our shop, some of you have seen their jeans on us, or are participating in the denim contest we just facilitated with them.


Ryo and Hiro Ooe, husband and wife, make garments in the Japanese countryside using a collection of rare vintage sewing machines. Ryo is the patternmaker and cutter, Hiro does the sewing. Their dedication, focus and level of detail is superlative. The waistband label sums up the soul of what they do: "We wish to express our gratitude to all people involved in this work."


The production is very limited by nature, and they have developed an international cult following over the years. When you hold a pair of Ooe Yofukuten jeans, it may take a moment to notice the subtle details.


These jeans are subtle themselves, as close to as an elevated classic as we've ever held. They are all about the details, not the detailing. The fabric is just like a pair of vintage Levi’s, the needlework is flawless, and the buttonholes absolute perfection - each a mark of the craft of Ryo and Hiro.


We're very proud to have worked with them for our very first collaboration jean. This is an important milestone in the history of our shop, and we hope it is the first of many to come. 


For our OA02-510 jean, we started with their classic 02 fit, which is very similar to a 1960's 501 with a medium rise and a slim tapered leg.





We made some small tweaks to make them our idea of a perfect jean. We lined the back pockets to prevent wallet blow-out. The chainstitch on the hem is our signature orange. The hip pockets are two inches longer to accommodate our bigger telephones. Our paper collaboration patch is printed with our slogan "Own fewer, better things".






The pocket bag stamps are inspired by Japanese pilgrimage stamps, a tradition dating back over 1200 years that continues today. Sacred temples and shrines each have a unique seal, and visitors receive a stamp of the seal, which is collected in a special booklet called a go-shuin-chou. The stamps are proof of the visit, a physical mark representing the experience.

The collaboration jeans are a stamp booklet themselves, receiving a stamp from each group involved in the jeans' journey, from Japan to California, and on to each wearer of the jeans.


Ryo and Hiro Ooe designed a seal representing their family's history in the region of Ichinomiya.They use a wood block hand carved by Ryo Ooe to stamp the seal on the right pocket bag. 





We designed a stamp representing the history of streetcar transit in the Temescal district of Oakland, and co-owner Jeremy Smith of Standard hand-stamped the left pocket bag.





We invite you to stamp the jeans, to leave your mark on them, to represent your participation in their journey.

This time around, we had Ryo and Hiro give the jeans a rinse before shipping them to take any surprises out of buying a pair of unsanforized jeans.  




Here’s Neil’s sample pair after 2 months of hard wear:






We're offering complimentary chainstitch hemming for our first collaboration. E-mail us with your desired inseam length after ordering. The chainstitch hem may delay shipping by up to 3 days. Unfortunately we cannot accept returns on jeans after they have been hemmed.

  • 13.5oz unsanforized denim exclusive to Ooe Yofukuten
  • One-wash
  • Hidden rivets on the back pockets
  • 100% cotton thread
  • Custom paper label for S&S
  • Extra-deep pocket bags
  • Lined back pockets
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't understand the sizing. These seem a lot smaller than my contest jeans after they shrank 2 inches.


These went out to a commercial washhouse in Nagoya, so ALL the shrink came out at once.  




The sizing is keeping me from buying, sadly. Both the Ooe, and the Old Blue.


On the Old Blue - one of our customers bought the 36's and hot soaked them with a hang dry:


Pre-soak measurements (in.), this was done with them inside out, as i didn't think about it until after I flipped them.
Waist: 18" across (with bands buttoned and aligned)
Front Rise:11" (to center of crotch stitch)
Back Rise: 15.5" (to center of crotch stitch)
Hip: 23.5" (3" up from crotch stitch)
Knee:9" (13" down from crotch stitch)
Foot opening:8.75"
Outer full length:46.5"
I used a sink soak in (hot to the hand) hot water, for one hour. I massaged and agitated the jeans periodically to make sure that they soaked through, flipping and folding opposite ways etc. Followed by a hang to dry with a hanger tucked into the inner loop of the back center (to allow for the entire jean to shrink).
Upon drying completely, I re-measured (also inside out for consistency) 
Post soak and Dry measurements.

Waist: 17" across (with bands buttoned and aligned)
Front Rise:10.5" (to center of crotch stitch)
Back Rise: 13.5" (to center of crotch stitch)
Hip: 20.75" (3" up from crotch stitch)
Knee:8.75" (13" down from crotch stitch)
Foot opening:8.75"
Outer full length:43.5"





My take on the old blue fit:  Size up to the next size if you want to hot-soak them, or buy them TTS and wear for a long time pre-wash if you want a slimmer fit, but expect a struggle post-wash the first time.


I'm going to use myself as a reference (mostly) here.   I am a nominal 34 in most jeans that we carry, and my ideal fit in the OA02 cut is a 35.   When I got my size 36 OA02XX last year, they were just right pre-soak, then post-hot soak, very snug and almost hard to button.


Here's my personal 36, next to a new 36:








Here's a pair of 34s (Neil's), as delivered and worn for 3 months, 2 washes, starting from one-wash state:




Last night, we had a customer come in and start on the 34s, but we moved him down to the 33 very quickly after he tried the worn-in 34.  He had trouble with the top button on the 33 but after about 10 minutes of hanging around (with some Workhorse Rye to ease the boredom) it buttoned right up for a perfect fit.


I then threw a pair of 32s on Josh here, who is nominally a 31 - he could only get to the 2nd to top button, but after 10 minutes, same thing again, he got into them.


Based on all that, plus the tape measure, here's our guidance:

1) Size up 1 from your usual denim size 

2) Final size post-stretch after wearing will be tag size - the 34's are 17" laid flat, the 36's are 18" laid flat.

3) If you want an anti-fit, size up 2 from usual denim size


And don't forget, we do have a generous return policy if you don't have them hemmed.  We'll swap sizes as long as we have them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...