Samurai Jeans Geisha Denim Evolution Thread

[ShootThePier]

Bought a pair off of eBay. Two days in and digging them. Great fit, super bumpy denim.

Been wearing IHDWCxUHR for the last couple of months. The denim and indigo in those and these compliment each other well in the rotation.

[Cucoo]

Mine arrived today, in the washing machine right now. First try-on was promising

 

[Cucoo]

After fighting with the denim for probably half an hour to get them cuffed I also took some quick measurements, this is a size 30 after an 1h 40°C machine wash ("dark clothing" program with less agitation and low 600rpm spin cycle):

 

Waist: 35cm

Front rise: 26cm 

Thigh: 27cm

Knee: 21cm 

Hem: 19cm

Inseam (unhemmed): 91cm

 

I could have sized up one for an instantly comfortable fit in the top block, and I won't lie, it took me maybe 10 minutes to button them up completely But they've been comfy raw before the wash and now I'm sitting without getting snapped in two, so they've already stretched a ton. The leg opening shrank 0,5cm more than I would have liked, but they need a hem anyway and then they'll open to maybe 19,5-20cm which will be perfect for my taste. This denim is really awesome, rough and very crisp - and the fit throughout the leg is perfect already. Once the waist is back to raw I'm a happy camper.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Sounds good already, looking forward to some fit pics soon

Weren't you sure about the inseam shrinkage so that's why you didn't get them hemmed by Denimio or unsure about the size at all?

Where do you gonna get them hemmed?

[Cucoo]

I wasn't sure about the overall size so I wanted to keep the option to exchange them for a 31 if they'd turned out to be too small in raw state already. Don't know yet where to get a hem, I'll be in London for a few days in April so maybe hit up rivet and hide there... Also have a work thing in Hamburg in the near future so maybe Vater & Sohn, whatever thing comes first I guess.

[Cucoo]

So, fit pics. I'm pretty happy with the fit, I wanted a slim pair to round out my wardrobe and these fill that role nicely.

 

 

 

 

 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Very nice fit! They look quite straight below the knee. With the cuff they look very wearable and good but a hem might be the better option in the long run

[Cucoo]

Yeah, I love a big cuff personally and how it looks here, but a hem will make wearing boots a bit easier (right now I can fit them over every pair I have, but it's very tight with my taller cowboy boots). Just 0,5cm bigger leg opening would make a lot of difference. Maybe I should just try and stretch out the cuffs for now

[KevMcAlley]

Got my pair back from being hemmed at Ironheart yesterday (Excellent job done btw) and wore them last night to poker - loving them already. Fit great already, but with a bit of stretch they will be perfection. Glad I went true.

 

How bad has the denim bleed been for those who have been wearing them post-soak? I can deal with a bit of bleed but don't want to ruin shoes with it.

[Cucoo]

I haven't worn them with new shoes without any bleed already on them, but judging from handling them when wet post-wash the bleed isn't so bad, my hands got barely any indigo on them when I flattened out creases etc.

[ALB]

Not much bleeding here either though I've only wore low top sneakers with them.

[karanimal]

Weird...these things stained by tub blue and thats never happened to me before. Also my hands were insanely dark after trying to turn them right side out for hanging...

 

QUESTION FOR EVERYONE

 

Is anyone else finding this denim extremely warm?

 

Mind you I've been wearing them during the sydney summer where its been 28-34 most days recently but these jeans seem to be so much warmer that my flat head pioneer denim (not 2oz worth of warmth IMO). I feel like i will only be comfortable in these jeans in the autumn/winter here. I can wear my flat heads and PBJ xx007 no problem all year round even in 36+ heat

[Max Power]

Got my 36... and a bit proud to have solved all the sizing issues. Crazy how loose they look / run compared to the 35, that I could barely step into nor close the button. But also...they are so comfy. Not a slim fit anymore, but one that I'll enjoy wearing for a long time. Waist is at 92cm, inseam 90cm, hem 22,3 cm. They're soaking at the moment.

 

Success!

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Yeah, you seem to be happy

[slavo]

Fading incredibly fast compared to my 19oz, lots indigo coming off my back pockets in just 2 weeks of wear.

I don't usually do the 'don't wash for 6-8 months' but I think I will with these.

[Max Power]

I soaked them three times and give them a gentle machine wash now...they're bleeding a lot, but I want to make sure they shrunk a good amount. And I'm thinking of altering the arcs and tab...has anybody done that yet?

[karanimal]

I soaked them three times and give them a gentle machine wash now...they're bleeding a lot, but I want to make sure they shrunk a good amount. And I'm thinking of altering the arcs and tab...has anybody done that yet?

 

I have been thinking about moving the tab to the back pocket but i have no faith in my own sewing abilities. Is it fairly invasive of a job for a tailor to do? 

[Max Power]

Totally. Even you could do it yourself: use a seam ripper just on the arear where the tab is attached, take it out, restitch with a similar coloured thread. (I suck at all handicraft stuff, I mean really - and it's something I would easily manage). I just don't like the thought of ripping a new pair of jeans.Well, I might just cut the tab away, as I don't like the gold lettering that much.

 

I see two possibiliites for me a) tab on backpockets, but no arcs then or arcs and no tab.  Gold lettering, red tab, pink selvedge,  green & blue arcs and gold buttons are just too much.

Edited January 25, 2016 by Max Power

[Cucoo]

Totally. Even you could do it yourself: use a seam ripper just on the arear where the tab is attached, take it out, restitch with a similar coloured thread. (I suck at all handicraft stuff, I mean really - and it's something I would easily manage). I just don't like the thought of ripping a new pair of jeans.Well, I might just cut the tab away, as I don't like the gold lettering that much.

 

I see two possibiliites for me a) tab on backpockets, but no arcs then or arcs and no tab.  Gold lettering, red tab, pink selvedge,  green & blue arcs and gold buttons are just too much.

 

The details can seem a bit in your face when you inspect your jeans like we tend to do, but in real life they're not that flashy in my opinion. No one sees the gold button unless you tuck your shirt and wear no belt, the pink selvedge looks just reddish and no one will really notice the gold lettering.

[Max Power]

Here's the post wash fit. The inseam shrank 6cm (90-->84) and the hem around 1 cm. Still they don't look exactly slim, but the feel really comfy and are just perfect at the waist. I think they'll look a lot better when the denim has settled and softened.

 

[Flash]

Great fit mate , just don't forget about your 800

[KevMcAlley]

Worn my pair for 4 days now and I'm in love with them. Rigid as hell yet extremely comfortable. I've seen a little bit of fading in my wallet back-pocket with sitting etc. which is pretty rapid.

 

Haven't noticed much denim bleed, but I've been staying away from white footwear for now so maybe that's why.

 

Denimio really should've ran a competition with these.

[spitfiredealer]

Look good Max. Looks like a different cut compared to mine though. You go up one or 2 sizes in the end?

Mine are starting to soften a bit now. 

 

 

Can't say i am noticing much denim bleed either. A bit on my shoes but nothing major. 

[KevMcAlley]

Looking good Spitfire.

 

Mine are a different fit also, more of a regular/slim but I went true to my waist size and only warm soaked with them on in the bath.

 

 

Edited January 26, 2016 by KevMcAlley

[Max Power]

Look good Max. Looks like a different cut compared to mine though. You go up one or 2 sizes in the end?

Mine are starting to soften a bit now. 

 

 

 

Can't say i am noticing much denim bleed either. A bit on my shoes but nothing major. 

 

Yes, 2 sizes up. The waist is pretty tight nevertheless, just the hips and legs would have been better in 35. I feel like they just made the waist too narrow.

[spitfiredealer]

I know we are all new to this denim but anyone wanna give any thought to further shrinkage. Gave mine a 40 degree wash to start. So got a fair amount to begin with. Just wondering if they shrink some more with another wash. Thinking about getting them hemmed a bit more.

[Max Power]

I could really use some more shrinkage in the legs...at this point I'm not sure wether I'll wear them this year or save them up. Somehow I'm more drawn towards my WH and Resolute right now.

 

BTW, I had the tab removed...looks way better now. I might tear out the arcs soon as well, but as the threads look pretty loose they might come undone with time anyway.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

I also thought about ripping out those arcs but I am not sure how easy it will be when you can only rip them from the front since the backside of the back pockets is lined.

[Max Power]

I think it will work fine. The thread Looks a bit flimsy and I had no Problems removing the thread on the coin pocket just from the front.

[spitfiredealer]

I love this denim.

 

 

Pretty set on having a inch taken off these as without a cuff there is a bit too much flaring going on with the stacks. Hopefully i won't lose too much taper