Samurai Jeans Geisha Denim Evolution Thread

[chantheman]

starting a thread specifically for Samurai jeans - geisha denim

 

Samurai x Denimio collaboration pair

 

 

31's

 

30's

Edited December 24, 2015 by chantheman

[Max Power]

Some basic information on Geisha: It's originally the ladies line of Samurai jeans, offering three cuts in the same 16 oz pink selvage denim, that comes onewash and is only available for these models (and for the first time raw and on a men's cut for the 710 DMO ).

 

1) GA0512LXX Standard boot cut, levis-like details

 

 

2) GA0510LXX II slim/skinnyfit, Levis-like details

 

3) GA0513LXX Bellbottom, flared cut, external pockets

 

The denim itself seems pretty slubby and fades with high contrast.

Some details of my 710DMO:

Edited December 24, 2015 by Max Power

[Foxy2]

Maybe I should post some pictures of my 2001 Lot.04 GA510 in the original (non-selvage) Geisha denim...just to irritate.

[slavo]

Decent amount of stretch on my 16oz DMO's after a day's wear. Thought I'd have to size up to 35 but think I'll stick with the 34's.

[Raoul Duke]

6 DAY UPDATE [i FEEL LIKE I'M ON REDDIT]

 

[ironheartfan123]

6 days and electric blue already popping.. crazy..

[karanimal]

Finally picked my pair of 36's up from the post office and gave them a hot soak. This cut/fit is probably my all time favourite right now. I am so glad i managed to get a pair in 36 as the 35s would have probably killed my hips. 

 

Posting so i can add some photos to the first page of this thread. Fit pics and some thoughts on this denim coming in some time this week. 

 

I might be in the minority but i love the gold button. Its covered by my belt anyways but i think after a year or two of wear it'll look fantastic with the matte black buttons below it. 

 

EDIT: so i just dropped mine off at the tailors to have a bit of a taper...blasphemy i know but the 36 leg opening was just a tad too big for my liking. Review and pictures will have to wait until the weekend. Hopefully my tailor understands the severity of my request to have them tapered from the inseam...

Edited January 5, 2016 by karanimal

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Samurai 710XX16OZ-DMO Review

 

Yesterday, I received the Samurai x Denimio collab in size 35. I spare you the pictures for now but still wanna give you guys me input on them.

 

 

Fit

I also own the standard S710XX in size 35. And while both pairs look nearly identic when laid on top of each other, the DMO still feels tighter. The back rise of the DMO feels shorter and the whole top block but especially the hips and where the legs are attached feel tighter. I attribute this to the denim being still crunchy and stiff as hell.

My old 710XX are unhemmed but these DMO are hemmed and measure 34†after a strong agitated soak. Still, because of the stiff denim it feels shorter than 34†but is long enough for me.

 

 

Denim

I handled the 16oz Geisha denim several years ago when I saw Ika’s worn in pair but this didn’t prepare me when I handled my DMO.

The Geisha denim is one of the darkest Samurai denims. With lots of Samurai denims you have very slubby and bumpy denims where a lot of weft shows through. Because of this the standard Samurai denims look lighter.

The Geisha denim is more uniform compared to the 15oz Texas Cotton, the Zero denim or the 19oz Denim. But when you touch the denim you feel lots of little bumps and itchy spots. You also have some little neps here and there. Furthermore, the denim is incredible stiff and coarse. There seem to be still a lot of starch and sizing agents in this denim.

The denim has a distinct redcast resulting in a purple cast. Something I haven’t seen in Samurai denim yet (as far as I remember).

All in all, the denim is more uncomfortable than I expected for a “Women’s Denimâ€

 

 

Details + Hardware

Now to the part where Samurai is one of the leading Japanese raw denim brands we discuss here: the details!

This pair is crowded with details!

 

Hidden rivets? Check! Selvedge coin pocket? Check! Lined back pockets? Check! Unique leather patch? Check! Unusual buttons? Check! Etc….

There are surely more things I could enumerate.

The pocket bag material with the Wabash-like look are great so are the lined back pockets. The selvedge on the back pockets is also a nice detail but I think the fold is too big and will create an uncommon horizontal fade. The fading of the back pockets itself could be a whole story. 90 ° rotated, lined and with the selvedge detail: you will hardly create your “own†fades on this back pockets and the path they will evolve is already laid out for them. That’s a little minus in my book.

I like how they used a different denim (Herringbone) for the coin pocket. This is a very small detail and probably only hardly noticeable for outsiders. The arcs are very subtle as of yet but somehow back pockets with arcs but no tab look strange to me I could use the tab from the coin pocket to sew it on the back pocket but I have an aversion to fuck with the integrity of a brand new and intact pair of jeans.

The leather of the patch is very nice and I prefer it over the patch of the 710OG because it isn’t as thick. Thick fat leather patches are fancied by some brands but to me it can look odd and uncomfortable. The motive is rather regular and not as wild as other collabs.

What I like probably most are the Lee-style rivets. As I never owned a pair of Samurai Jins, I never experienced these rivets. Now, if they would also have added a crotch rivet…

I don’t have such a big gripe with the gold button like others have. It’s covered by my belt anyways and it’s also just plated with gold. I expect it to rub off eventually over the course of the wear time. The black donut buttons are nice. I’d also like a set of the “Rising Sun†buttons (like the top button) to be painted black but maybe this is something for the future

 

Samurai could have used some more colors for the threads. The arcs are blue and green (and I really wanna know why because this would have fitted better with Blue in Green Soho) but the rest of the stitching I mostly orange/brown. Something like a lemon colored thread for the inseam would have been nice.

 

 

Conclusion

I think this is a very well done collab. Denimio wasn’t shy to put as much details into their first collab. But for me the most important thing: they used Samurai’s denim which isn’t known to many people, yet it is already several years old. But since it was kinda exclusive to the Geisha line (with exception of some collabs) you still get the feeling to discover the wilderness and experience something new.

[slavo]

quick fit pic before someone comes into the changing rooms. will try and getter better ones up.

size 34 , one soak, haven't been hemmed yet.happy with the fit.  I usually wear 33 in the 19oz and these fit almost identically. 

 

 

 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Size 35 after 2 days of wear

 

 

[Max Power]

Nice fit, though I would have thought the leg was slimmer (just by the measurements).

[spitfiredealer]

 

My pair on their first day as office jeans. 

[Max Power]

Perfect fit!

[spitfiredealer]

Thanks Max.

[Warakia]

Anyone who has both these and the 711? I see that the consensus is that it fits smaller than a normal 710, but would it fit similar to a 711, or a bit smaller than that? I have the 710 and the 711 in the same size (31), and the 711 is quite a bit smaller overall (not just the rise) in my experience. 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Is it just me or do the pocket bags feels noticeably larger on these than on the standard Samurai jeans?!

[Raoul Duke]

Nothing new really going on, but here is another pic for shits.  DSLR shit the bed, so this is just an iphone shot: 

 

[CatKillah]

Wow, this is going to be epic.

 

Nothing new really going on, but here is another pic for shits.  DSLR shit the bed, so this is just an iphone shot: 

 

[Cucoo]

Is the final verdict on how much these stretch in yet?

[slavo]

_{decent amount of stretch on my pair,}

Edited January 13, 2016 by slavo

[beautiful_FrEaK]

The pair from MaxPower measured around 90 cm and is now roughly 92 cm.

So like all raw denim stretches back to pre-soak in the waist and as all Samurai also beyond pre-soak size

[Cucoo]

Thanks, that's what I needed to hear I'll take the gamble and go TTS (30 in my case) with these, then.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Always keep the other dimensions in your head: like thigh, hip, crotch. The waistband is easy to stretch, the rest not always.

[givemefive]

Always keep the other dimensions in your head: like thigh, hip, crotch. The waistband is easy to stretch, the rest not always.

 

Where did you hem them to in order to get 34" inseam. I was thinking 93cm or about 36.5" on mine.

 

I think I will finally buy a  pair of Samurai. This pair looks incredible.

Edited January 13, 2016 by givemefive

[beautiful_FrEaK]

MaxPower can answer this as he ordered them. The info might also be in the standard Samurai thread where he posted measurements

[Max Power]

I told Denimio to hem them to 90,5 cm, which they accurately did. This is based on my rule of thumb that I need a raw inseam of 36". They shrunk a good amount while an agitated soak so they ended up around 34". I think they might have up to 3" shrinkage in them, at least more than 2".

Edited January 13, 2016 by Max Power

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Thanks for clarifying flo! I just realised you only send the numbers to me

[Cucoo]

Always keep the other dimensions in your head: like thigh, hip, crotch. The waistband is easy to stretch, the rest not always.

 

Sure, rise is the one area I'm a bit concerned with, but I'm having them measure one pair for me before I make my final decision.

 

Edit: They came back to me with these measurements for a size 30 raw in case anyone's interested:

 

item/S710XX16OZ-DMO-30

waist/ 78cm

front rise/30cm

thigh width/ 29cm

inseam/ 97.5cm

hem/20cm

 

These'll work fine for me

Edited January 14, 2016 by Cucoo

[spitfiredealer]

 

Really loving this denim

[Max Power]

My size 36 arrived at my parents yesterday, so I should be able to join you soon.