Shoes that look better with age...

[Supawiwi]

Right it's been a while since I last posted about my Trickers problem...

Anyhoo I purchased some Pecards Leather dressing (as recommended by a few of you) and have applied about 3 coats onto to the boots. Leaving about 3 day gaps in between to allow the leather to absorb it. Now upon the 3rd coat of rubbing it in, I've still noticed that in the creases, the leather is still incredibly dry and if I "crease" the boot it makes it 100x worse.

I'm at a loss to what to do. I did make sure the leather was clean by using luke warm water and just a sponge to wipe the leather down till the water turns clear - I heard saddle soap is too harsh for fine leathers... and of course letting the leather to dry first before applying it.

If I'm honest the Pecards Leather dressing doesn't seem to have made a great deal of difference overall. Should I persevere and keep applying the leather dressing till the dryness in creases disappear? (moistens up). Or should I use Pecards shoe oil and apply it all over the boot in hope to restore the moisture in the leather in particular the creases?

Or any other suggestions... have I bought the wrong "conditioner"? and should be trying something else?

When I have dryness troubles or even before automn and winter I treat my boots with seal grease. It is more of a heavy dutty contioner used on hunting boots or to treat motorcycle jackets but I use it on my aldens and trickers. It is really greasy so try not to use to much and remove it with cloth before it dries or it will leave a coat on the leather that is hard to remove. Different brands sell it like Saphir, Dubbin or Grison.

I don't know if you can find it in the US though.

[enlightened.]

Well, I did have my eye on a few red wing auctions these past few days, but looks like they have been discovered.

And I thought I was home free...

[WhiteShark]

How long was the break in on the LL Bean boots?

I just got a pair for my birthday but I don't think they really fit me. I keep getting this horrible pain in the center of my foot. Not normal break in soreness. I don't think they are anywhere near wide enough.

After that revelation i went staggering back to my father begging for my aldens back....(i had sold them to him, i was hoping to replace them with new ones, new ones were crap quality, iron worker boots are too narrow even in EE for me)

[confab]

My LL Bean boots were very tough to break in, initially I had blisters around the ankles and discomfort on the tops of my feet. I just wore them hard and worked through the pain, after about a month or so they were fully broken in and they're very comfortable now.

[dralfonzo]

Well, I did have my eye on a few red wing auctions these past few days, but looks like they have been discovered.

And I thought I was home free...

man they were 'discovered' ages ago! Only the really beaten up pairs go for cheap on ebay, and even then they're usually weird sizes. Probably just best to save a get a new pair. Or try thrift stores...

[denimdestroyedmylife]

Don't buy suede boots,they are ugly. Any leather that requires too much babying does not belong on a boot.

suede actually shows less wear than regular leather, hence their use in roughouts and mountaineering boots----tough-wear boots both!

[rnrswitch]

I actually have no experience with suede. I was under the impression that true "suede" is from the interior of the skin of whatever animal it was obtained from. Since it doesn't have the skin with it, then it is less durable than a "full grain" leather, but that is just what wikipedia says. I, or they, may be wrong. It wouldn't be the first time for either.

[rnrswitch]

Also, are roughouts made from actual suede, or are they just the full grain leather dulled down with some abrasion?

[tmadd]

Roughouts, at least in the context of Whites or Wescos are inside-out full grain leather.

[denimdestroyedmylife]

really? huh. that stands to reason. i thought roughouts were suede but with the nap matted down with waterproofing, but still----mountaineering boots are suede, surely.

[moykky]

Roughouts, at least in the context of Whites or Wescos are inside-out full grain leather.

Rough side out

[Bill2]

Right it's been a while since I last posted about my Trickers problem...

Anyhoo I purchased some Pecards Leather dressing (as recommended by a few of you) and have applied about 3 coats onto to the boots. Leaving about 3 day gaps in between to allow the leather to absorb it. Now upon the 3rd coat of rubbing it in, I've still noticed that in the creases, the leather is still incredibly dry and if I "crease" the boot it makes it 100x worse.

I'm at a loss to what to do. I did make sure the leather was clean by using luke warm water and just a sponge to wipe the leather down till the water turns clear - I heard saddle soap is too harsh for fine leathers... and of course letting the leather to dry first before applying it.

If I'm honest the Pecards Leather dressing doesn't seem to have made a great deal of difference overall. Should I persevere and keep applying the leather dressing till the dryness in creases disappear? (moistens up). Or should I use Pecards shoe oil and apply it all over the boot in hope to restore the moisture in the leather in particular the creases?

Or any other suggestions... have I bought the wrong "conditioner"? and should be trying something else?

Once the outer layer of the leather is cracked, its cracked... think of cracks in a painted car finish.... What you're then aiming to do is two things: moisturize the leather so further cracking is prevented, and the now exposed under layers of the leather do not dry out excessively. Then you can address the superficial problems associated with the surface cracking. Meltonian, or other shoe creams that have dye in them will help to stain the leather back to proper color, and take out any whiteness that has a tendancy to show when cracks appear... Then wax polish is probably needed to fill the physical cracks, and smooth out the surface

Also, are roughouts made from actual suede, or are they just the full grain leather dulled down with some abrasion?

Tmadd had it correct here.... Roughout leather is fullgrain leather shown rough side out. The rough side can be brushed to raise the nap of the hide further in some instances. Suede is a split leather.... softer, thinner, more breathable (think Desert boots), but less durable. Roughout is choosen for mountaineering boots often times because it tends to shrug off scuffs and scratchs, where a smoother leather shows them more. WWII roughout boots were heavily oiled or dubbed to make them more waterproof... as was mentioned a page back

[rnrswitch]

Case closed I guess. The mighty Bill has spoken.

I personally have never owned roughout or suede boots. I don't particularly like the aesthetics of them.

[Happy Hooligan]

it's another story with a pair of vintage Suede Hush Puppies!

[artxattack]

LOAKES oxfords. end of story

[erk]

does anyone here have any experience with william lennon & co limited? they're a UK shoe maker and have some sort of association with Solovair.

I was lookin at their site for a friend who wants to replace his doc martens and I found some real cool lookin shoes on their website.

these are my favorite : http://www.williamlennon.co.uk/footwear/78ptc-mens-traditional-leather-derby-boot.html

[superchunk]

Nice looking boots...

[rnrswitch]

Folks, my cat got a hold of my AF65s (I believe that is the correct number) and I have some "scratches" more like dents on my shoes. The good news is that I used the brown shoe paste from alden for the cigar cordovan portions of the shoes and you couldn't even tell after the polish was completed, but I need to get some good black shoe paste for the black portions of the shoes. I would order some from alden, but I wouldn't want to burden them with an $8 order. Is there any good paste for black cordovan that I can get at the market?

[tmadd]

Kiwi paste polish will have you sorted out properly and is available at nearly any market.

[coleslawyum]

Word, Kiwi has always done right by me, but these days I prefer Saphir's more liquid-y application.

[Turntabloid]

that has to be interesting for most europeans:

http://www.superdenim.co.uk/prodpage.asp?productid=167

trmc rigger boots

[big truck]

only for european folks who are small of foot!

[bernielike]

Real McCoy Rigger work boots

http://www.superdenim.co.uk/prodpage.asp?productid=167

[Kys]

My Military Boots. Been wearing em for about 9 months now. Everyday wear basically. Sometimes do a bit of outfield. Most comfortable boots i've ever worn.

[Francis Xavier]

Nice boots. You might wanna resize those pics, though.

[Opie]

I'm right behind you on those Real McCoy Rigger work boots beauties! The price however.. phew. For a pair of non-shells? Damn!

[eean]

I'm right behind you on those Real McCoy Rigger work boots beauties! The price however.. phew. For a pair of non-shells? Damn!

ahah yea my thoughts exactly! 400 pounds is steep, recession or not...

[joelz]

almost 4 months of solid wear in nyc does hell to aldens - i clearly need to expand my boot collection to rotate these, and clean them up and resole them.

[Francis Xavier]

^^^

How often do you shine? Those look good, imo.

[joelz]

Umm i actually haven't shined in a while - just cleaned them before the pictures so they look good right now, I'd say I try to either shine/mink oil around once a month