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Posted
2 minutes ago, evisu8858 said:

Looking to get a type 1 jacket, how well regarded are LVC compared to examples like Sugar Cane, (vintage) Evisu, Freewheeler's etc.? I'm specifically having a look at this one: https://www.levi.com/GB/en_GB/clothing/men/levis-vintage-clothing-1936-type-i-jacket/p/705060028

I find the jackets to be quite well made, i.e. correct details and fit.
But to take into account: like Maynard had said, threads are polycotton. I guess that is for both jeans and jackets.
And when I compare my LVC 1944 with WH WWII denim, SC 1945 and FW late 1945 (WWII denim) the denim is smoother (while still showing some irregularity).
Also the denim fabrics of the three mentioned fade in my perception faster than the LVC Kaihara denim. Which some prefer and others not.

Posted
3 minutes ago, evisu8858 said:

Thanks Indigo, much appreciated. I think I'll try and score a second hand version of one of the latter three. Would you happen to know where best to do that if not eBay?

Your best bet is probably Mercari in Japan or Yahoo Auctions.
What size are you looking for? I've seen mostly sizes 44 and below there.

One measurement to look out for is the sleeve length. That can vary quite a bit. The WH 1941 for example has pretty long sleeves, while the SC 1936 one has relatively short ones. FWs and most other WH are in between.

Posted
24 minutes ago, reubensangwich said:

@evisu8858  Would love to see the new Sugar Cane type 1 on here, Rodeo Japan Pine Avenue also has it. That said, I've had the Freewheelers 1946-47 type 1 for about 8 months now and I can't recommend it enough. It actually knocked my socks off when I first received it, the denim and stitching is absolutely gorgeous. 

It's quite nice. But fits very small, I find.

Posted (edited)

Both the SC and the Freewheeler's seem to fit very small compared to my Kapital type 1, I'm going to measure that up tonight to get an idea of which size to go for. @reubensangwich  I suppose I have to get the SC now ;) Will post it here when I get it, probably within the next month or so.

Edited by evisu8858
Posted
On 11/22/2025 at 5:33 AM, Dr_Heech said:

Regarding the Lvc type 2 jackets.

No, the USA cone made jackets did not come with a T back. The Japan made one's also feature the wrong patch (a pre-1942 rather than post 1942 patch).

The original jackets had extra side panels for larger sizes, l think from a size 42 to 48/50. There are parallel side seams where the side adjusters sit to accommodate these.

It seems, at least from the Vintage levis denim jackets book, that some custom made type 2 jackets for larger peeps had a T back, but these sizes were 50 up to 54 inch chests. Only a few survive.

Thanks for the very informative information. I'm not a fan of the T-Back, I'm surprised Kaihara doesn't have wider looms. Saying that the original Type II in larger sizes with a T-back appears to be very rare and collectable. Ideally I can find a made in USA but I imagine it's going to cost compared to a made in Japan.

Posted
19 hours ago, Dr_Heech said:

@cool_hand here's a type 2 T back, courtesy of @LazyS. As they state, the T back was for garment sizes E (stands for Extra), EE, EEE and EEEE (sizes 48, 50, 52 and 54). I think Csf repro'd a limited run.

What is the deal with the Made in Belgium versions of the Type II? Are these still Cone Denim or Japanese Selvedge?

Posted

@cool_hand - do you have any further information on the Belgian made type IIs?

I’d imagine they use Japanese denim and may have been part of the early post-transitional period from Cone/made in USA, when production was shifted to Europe (although primarily Bulgaria and possibly Turkey) using Kaihara denim. Subsequently, as far as I’m aware, production was moved to Japan. This may not explain the Belgian production so is just a guess. Do you know the production date from the label?

Posted
3 hours ago, cool_hand said:

What is the deal with the Made in Belgium versions of the Type II? Are these still Cone Denim or Japanese Selvedge?

Was there really made in Belgium version?

I'm only aware of the LVC HQ being in Brussels once

Posted

^ That did occur to me. Also, is Belgium being confused with Bulgaria? Anyway, let’s wait and see if Cool Hand replies.

Posted
On 11/25/2025 at 5:09 PM, beautiful_FrEaK said:

Was there really made in Belgium version?

I'm only aware of the LVC HQ being in Brussels once

Sorry, typo, I meant to say made in Bulgaria version. As Maynard states it was probably during the transition between Made in USA and Made in Japan. There was also garments made in Turkey but I believe those were the garments that were not raw denim. I'm going to assume it wasn't Cone but Kaihara.

s-l1600(1)copy.jpg.a59d2ed6f186345c3aeac1d048d6e1f7.jpg

Posted
On 12/1/2025 at 2:19 PM, airfrogusmc said:

Yes they are Kaihara denim. Pretty nice denim to. It's a good match to my cone 1955s. Both have very similar texture and weight. 

Unfortunately the made in Uncle Bulgaria also has a T-Back. in the size XL.

Posted (edited)

Has anyone tried the new Levis 501 80s made in Japan? I'm liking the look of this more than the previous version which had a black leather patch.

I was thinking of ordering from Bears but noticed that the arcuates on their photos doesn't have the diamond stitch which I thought was weird?

On levis website and Stuarts London it does to make it more confusing.

The blue tab has grown on me and the shade of blue looks great.

They seem (from measurements wise) to have have a fairly roomy top block and a 12.5 inch rise for a size 32. Quite a taper compared to other repros at 7.5 inches but would probably get them hemmed which would widen them a tad.

I'm currently having a love hate relationship with my 1955s. The cut seems much slimmer than when I had the same size in the usa made version. It does relax a bit after a day of wear but they aren't as roomy as I had thought they'd be. Throwing on my SC66 the comfort difference is noticeable. Much roomier everywhere apart from the hem

Cultizm is saying the denim is 11.6 oz

 

Edit Actually it looks like only Levis official photos have the arcuates with the diamond stitching...

80s501-m2.jpg

Screenshot_20251210_111618_Levi's.jpg

shopping.webp

Levis_Blue_Tab_MIJ_1980s_501_Jeans_Clipper_Blue_A58750014__573_1c2f428c-3417-47eb-808d-e162536b8eff.jpg

Levis_Blue_Tab_MIJ_1980s_501_Jeans_Clipper_Blue_A58750014__575_fae30a10-cdd0-461f-816a-aa66d661546d.jpg

Edited by PrettyBoyTony
Cultizm also have same arcuates as Bears last two photos
Posted

I've tried them but didn't buy them although they are very nice jeans. But out of curiosity, if you find your 55s too slim why would you want to buy an even slimmer cut?

Posted (edited)
5 minutes ago, NilsLW said:

I've tried them but didn't buy them although they are very nice jeans. But out of curiosity, if you find your 55s too slim why would you want to buy an even slimmer cut?

It's a good question. But measuring my 55s now that they've been shrunk they are measuring slimmer than the measurements for these one wash 80s. Maybe I've been unlucky with my pair I'm not sure but I've washed them only once at 40.

What made you not buy them?

Edited by PrettyBoyTony
Posted

Maybe you could size up in the waist to be on the safe side. Modern Levis tend to be a little slim in the thighs and large in the waist imo. Didn't buy them because I bought a pair of Superstitch jeans instead, which I had wanted to try for a longer time.

Posted
On 12/10/2025 at 1:23 PM, NilsLW said:

Maybe you could size up in the waist to be on the safe side. Modern Levis tend to be a little slim in the thighs and large in the waist imo. Didn't buy them because I bought a pair of Superstitch jeans instead, which I had wanted to try for a longer time.

I think I'm between sizes with the 1955. 36 would likely be too loose in the waist. 34 has maybe shrunk more than I had expected or maybe was slightly undersized raw. The waist will stretch but will always be a tad slim in the top block and I'll need to stretch them out after every wash which isn't ideal as I wash regularly. You're right though the 80s might not be the right alternative for me

Posted

You’re not alone airfrog, I like T-backs too, and I suspect there are plenty of others out there (even if not on Sufu) who’d say likewise.

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