Levi's Vintage Clothing

[airfrogusmc]

Center back for the patch on the 1880s

[Dr_Heech]

I currently own 8 pieces of Lvc. 4 of those are pre 2003, being manufactured at the Valencia Street plant (see Vintage repros thread) The other 4 pieces are as follows:

1955 501XX (2003) made at the San Antonio plant. First 1955 pair to be made using Cone denim and the last 1955 model to be made in a Levi's owned factory in the US. Button stamp 554 (see Vintage repros)

1880s XX (2007) Not sure where these were manufactured but definitely post-Taylor Toggs run and USA made with Kurabo milled denim. Will post some pics up.

1880s Triple pleat blouse (1st edition 2013/14?) Made in USA (where?) from Kurabo Mills denim. Pics in the Denim community sales thread buried by now.

1944 S501XX from 2010, buttonstamp 4170. Made in USA with Cone denim after major lvc revamp (the quality dipped so badly in 2008 and 2009 they swiftly tried to rectify the issues with inaccuracies (It didn't work). Too small for me now. Photos are way back in this thread.

@reubensangwich in comparison to your Japan made 44's, my USA made 44's look to have continuous stitching from waist,  around patch and then back on to waist again. I doubt if they are however as all my other lvc have had a separate piece of poly-cotton stitching them down as well as the waistband single stitch. The beltloops on my pair are just as corner cutting and inaccurate as your pair, although they look a tad longer(and similar to @airfrogusmcs pair of 22's).

 

 

 

 

Edited August 17 by Dr_Heech
To add stuff

[Dr_Heech]

@airfrogusmc  Dug these out and tried them on and they fit perfectly. They had one hot soak and one wash. Lovely lightweight denim, lighter than my Lee 11oz repros but definitely heavier than a 6/7oz denim shirt. If it wasn't for the buttons falling off (2 fly and one waistband button already restitched and these have not really been worn as such) then l would wear them. Guess l could have them professionally restitched? Some lovely details: denim pocket bags, selvedge everywhere, unfinished seams including weird open inseam, same rivets as your pair and a wider than usual hem stitch. Also, the hem stitch is not equidistant from the edge of the hem, which is sloppy. My mum could've done a better job. 

Anyway kept now for posterity sake.

 

 

Sufu approved pic-tilting in full effect 

 

 

Edited October 11, 2025 by Dr_Heech
rectify a mistake and add a pic

[airfrogusmc]

Dr H,

 

Same ones i have. Very nice. As you can see on the photo I posted I have two vintage metal replacement buttons on the back by the leather patch. But the rest are all like yours. From what I understand these are rare. If you ever want to sell them let me know. 

[airfrogusmc]

Dr H, I agree there were some bad years of LVC. On my late US made cone denim 47s the belt loops are wide. Very nice repros. The 55s from around the same time frame as the 47s (late US made) the loops are like my current 1922s. The 1922 ragtops I have from 2014 IIRC, the loops are wide. Those were made in Turkey I think. One of the few pre distressed LVCs I have owned over the years.  

[Dr_Heech]

On 9/13/2025 at 3:02 PM, airfrogusmc said:

Dr H, I agree there were some bad years of LVC. On my late US made cone denim 47s the belt loops are wide. Very nice repros. The 55s from around the same time frame as the 47s (late US made) the loops are like my current 1922s. The 1922 ragtops I have from 2014 IIRC, the loops are wide. Those were made in Turkey I think. One of the few pre distressed LVCs I have owned over the years.  

Apart from the wrong arcs 201's (2005), l once owned the 1927 501XX (2007) - wide beltloops yes but only a single row of stitching across the top of the back pocket instead of the period-correct two rows. Bought the 1917 501XX in 2008 and the stitching holding the 2 horse patch on,, was running off the patch on one side. When l asked for a replacement, the second pair had the same quality control issue. In 2009 l purchased the 1915 '1st Cone 501XX ' and the exact same issue with the patch not being sewn on properly was there plain to see. At this time the 1917s were still NWT and on closer inspection both pairs, the 1917s had a J-Crew rivet back on one of the pocket bags.That was the last straw. I immediately got in contact with Aeroleather and got both pairs returned and refunded. 

Only other pair were the aforementioned 1944's from 2010 which were bought for me as a present from Mrs_Heech. 

Sadly l don't wear any of my lvc anymore, apart from my 551ZXX from 1996, instead l have a nice selection of Japnese reproductions which scratch the itch more (l'm wearing my SC47'S as l type) and they do a better job of copying old levis overall imo.

Edited November 2, 2025 by Dr_Heech

[airfrogusmc]

I actually prefer Cone White Oak denim over Japanese Denim. I had a pair of 17s and 15s (golden handshake) sold both because I really didn't like them for some of the same reasons you mentioned. There were some years and models that LVC did a pretty good job with. Like the 1880s you and I have. Some of the late Cone US made LVCs were pretty good to as were a lot of the earlier stuff. The early 1933s are really nice. Grant has a killer pair of them and an early pair of 1947s that are pretty sweet. 

I have been wearing the pair of 1937s I picked up almost a year ago everyday and they are coming along (Japan made with Japanese denim). I will start wearing the 1922s  a lot more soon. I really like the denim on the recently bought 1922s. 

[Double 0 Soul]

I'd forgive all of their inaccuracies if they would have saved White Oak Mill from bankruptcy.. 

[airfrogusmc]

Here the patch from an old well worn LVC 1947s. On this pair it looks to me they got the stitching on the patch right? Looks continuous across the top. If they did it on these they surely could do it on all that are supposed to be that way. 

 

 

[Dr_Heech]

2 hours ago, Double 0 Soul said:

I'd forgive all of their inaccuracies if they would have saved White Oak Mill from bankruptcy.. 

The last nail in the coffin, for me at least, was selling off the Valencia Street factory. The whole core ethos was old school trained and experienced levis workers, some starting work there in the late 1940s allegedly, but also 50's and 60s, who knew what they were doing as it was their lives.

When the manufacturing shifted to the San Antonio plant it was plain to see the first of the changes which would become a long running theme. Unfortunately I just kept kidding myself for another 5 years or so that lvc 'might get better'. They didn't. 

In around 2008 l was a lurker here and by 2009 l was a member. That was when l first came across Sugarcane jeans. Weeks later l bought 2 pairs of old stock SC47's, one pair of which l still wear (and am currently wearing) now. Then came Roy, FW and CSF and the rest is history. 

Never been tempted by lvc since.

Edited September 13, 2025 by Dr_Heech
To edit obvs

[airfrogusmc]

Dr H those 1880s are pretty special in my opinion. Who else would make those? Some other years are also pretty darn cool. Those 1911 333s were pretty cool. Which I'd have kept them. And I really like my 1933s. 

[Dr_Heech]

Agreed, some pairs were/are special/unique like those 1880's, the 1911 333's the 1873 duck pieces and the Valencia 201's. Also a few others.

But generally l did not enjoy the inconsistencies re: details and sizing on most of the other pairs, so l went elsewhere. 

Edited September 15, 2025 by Dr_Heech

[ATWM]

1 hour ago, Double 0 Soul said:

I'd forgive all of their inaccuracies if they would have saved White Oak Mill from bankruptcy.. 

Yea, same more or less. I don't much care about historical inaccuracy for the sake of it, though I do tend to like most historical design elements. 

I do like the look of some of their earlier LVC models, but I was too young and too broke to be around for those at that time.

For as long as I've been into denim I've generally regarded Levi's as a more or less fast fashion global enterprise. And also a malevolent political force. Not that either would necessarily stop me from buying it full stop, but the interest for me is too deep and there are too many other options.

The name is the same, and so are the arcs, but in general but this is not the entity that made 501's in mid-century. 

Rather spend my money with a smaller shop every time if i'm gonna put in the energy to care. 

As an aside, some brands still sell on Cone's name. They don't say White Oak, because that's a lie, but they sell on the name Cone and act as if that's a special thing, as opposed to the truth which is that they are mostly milling out of China (and some in Mexico - but no selvedge there as I understand it) like everyone else. 

[airfrogusmc]

Agree my 555 201s are pretty cool.

LVC went through a bad stretch for a while. I think they got good again after about 2011 or so though the 1947s that I posted the correct patch stitching was from 2009 .I also really like my 1905 201 coveralls. They where from 2007. Same denim as the 20s 201s. And agree about a lot of inconsistency. 

[Maynard Friedman]

2 hours ago, Double 0 Soul said:

I'd forgive all of their inaccuracies if they would have saved White Oak Mill from bankruptcy.. 

Surely that was Cone’s decision and not Levi’s responsibility, unless there’s a part of the story I’m not aware of.

[Double 0 Soul]

I'm pretty sure i didn't say it was 'Levi's responsibility'

..when you look at their blurb .. "in the year 2017 we contributed $9mill to non-profits.. $1mill to protect marginalisd comunities".. an so on, i'm sure they could have stepped in and taken Cone Mills under their wing.

 

[TheJPdude]

I am closing in on 70 days/wears on my 1890, and not really any fades in sight. Through wearing them, I am also noticing that just about the only thing I like about them is the lighter weight. Having no belt loops for my carabiner/keys is annoying, as is not having a back left pocket, as I am left handed. I figure I can get another ~50 wears out of them until the end of october before it starts cooling down for some 12oz+ denim, so hoping to see something by then. 

[Lorcan]

Glad I'm not the only lefty on the forum with a pair of 19th century repro jeans reaching for a phantom back left pocket that isn't there 🤣 (TCB 1880's Good Luck in my case)

[Dr_Heech]

47 minutes ago, TheJPdude said:

I am closing in on 70 days/wears on my 1890, and not really any fades in sight. Through wearing them, I am also noticing that just about the only thing I like about them is the lighter weight. Having no belt loops for my carabiner/keys is annoying, as is not having a back left pocket, as I am left handed. I figure I can get another ~50 wears out of them until the end of october before it starts cooling down for some 12oz+ denim, so hoping to see something by then. 

 

22 minutes ago, Lorcan said:

Glad I'm not the only lefty on the forum with a pair of 19th century repro jeans reaching for a phantom back left pocket that isn't there 🤣 (TCB 1880's Good Luck in my case)

Problem solved. If you guys both wait around until circa 1900, Levi's will add a second back pocket to their 501XX 😉

Edited September 13, 2025 by Dr_Heech

[Maynard Friedman]

23 minutes ago, Double 0 Soul said:

I'm pretty sure i didn't say it was 'Levi's responsibility'

..when you look at their blurb .. "in the year 2017 we contributed $9mill to non-profits.. $1mill to protect marginalisd comunities".. an so on, i'm sure they could have stepped in and taken Cone Mills under their wing.

 

I didn’t say you said it, but your suggestion seems to be implying it. Perhaps they could have done something, but I’m sure the cost would have dwarfed those you mention and possibly would have been required on an annual basis rather than a one-off contribution. Perhaps a vertical integration may have been an option.

Given their own lack of commitment to manufacturing in the USA (and the fact they had a contingency plan in place with Kurabo), I doubt a company like Levi’s would want their profits to take a hit by propping up a supplier’s business in order for them to maintain production in the US, unless they could see some financial benefit in it.

[Double 0 Soul]

6 minutes ago, Maynard Friedman said:

I didn’t say you said it, but your suggestion seems to be implying it.

Yeah.. whatever, i'm not going to argue about it..

[Lorcan]

27 minutes ago, Dr_Heech said:

 

Problem solved. If you guys both wait around until circa 1900, Levi's will add a second back pocket to their 501XX 😉

Damn plot spoiler alert 😄 

Unfortunately I never learn so I have Neat Style x Denim Bridge 1890s on the way

[TheJPdude]

if i can lose about 5 more lbs, i can probably more comfortably squeeze into my '33s, and thats all the repro i want. 

Anyone tried any of the other lightweight modern denim out there? I know N&F makes the 8.25 oz bluejay selvedge, the whisper and the new frontier. Once I fade out these 1890s, probably looking to move to something like that.

[ATWM]

The blame can be distributed (Levi’s, many other brands, the cheap American consumer, the multinationals that sold the idea of endlessly cheaper goods to the American consumer, the Levi’s shareholders, etc etc), but Levi’s could have saved them - and if they had any value beyond pure profit might have done so without a whole lot of difficulty.

anyways. 
 

for lightweight denim the FullCount super smooth is well liked, but I don’t love it. I have a few pairs of different linen made denims I like for the hot weather but even 13oz denim when pretty worn and can come to feel pretty light. Despite what I’ve said about Levi’s here I’d rather get something of their bottom barrel from Marshall’s or TJ Maxx than anything from N+F personally. Levi’s can at least still cut a proper 501. 

[airfrogusmc]

17 hours ago, TheJPdude said:

if i can lose about 5 more lbs, i can probably more comfortably squeeze into my '33s, and thats all the repro i want. 

Anyone tried any of the other lightweight modern denim out there? I know N&F makes the 8.25 oz bluejay selvedge, the whisper and the new frontier. Once I fade out these 1890s, probably looking to move to something like that.

Be patient and it will pay off in the long run. What year were your 33s made? Cone Denim? 

[Dr_Heech]

Over the years l have purchased alot of lvc, some to buy and wear, some to buy and sell on and some to buy and return in anger/frustration 😄.

In the early days of my (then) love of lvc, l just wanted an accurate clone of a pair of old 501's to wear, as buying original vintage was way too expensive. This would have been 1998. I purchased a pair of 1937 201XX with the leather patch (for the full price l might add but still a third of the (then) price of a pair of big E's in my size) from American Classics. The following Christmas the prices in the UK were slashed by half, to mirror the price for lvc sold in the USA, so l bought more. From '98 until 2002 l never kept one booklet or waistband paper tag, flasher, ticket, receipt or packaging (why would l?) and cut out the silver lined tags on the inside as l wanted my levis to look as much like originals as possible. Oh how naive l was 🤔 

Anyway,  around 2004 l started to keep most of the lvc ephemera which comes with the products, or marketing gumph as l like to call it. Some of this has been posted in the most excellent Vintage repros thread but here it all is, everything l've got relating to Levi's Vintage Clothing for your viewing pleasure and in no particular order. 

 

^Tote bag, two cheese cloth type drawstring covers and the 501 book with its little dust cover.

 

^This housed my lvc 1927 T-shirt and jeans set. Lvc bought out three era T-shirts and corresponding Levi's 501XX (1933, 1944 and 1955). This was the packaging but Cultizm were doing their own 1920s set at the time (1927 501XX and 1920s Henley tee with ribbed arm openings) hence why l have this piece. The set went inside and then you folded it over and fastened with the string on the metal eye hole at the other end. Torn now. 

 

^Original presentation box that the first wave of lvc came in available at the flagship Regent street store back in the late 90's. These had an early pair of 1955 501XX inside originally.  They came with a massive Levi's Vintage Clothing sticker and were 'fastened with the button sticker. 

 

^Original large bag from the 90's but can't remember which item came with it.

 

^Beautiful moleskin covered notebook given to me by Paul T back in c.2009(?) and an old Levis Strauss enamel badge.

 

^Bag and labels from my Vault Piece 1915 201's, a pre-distressed repro which were retailing for 500 quid but l copped these for around 150 so not a bad haul. Sold these to Majormajor on Denimbro.  Anyway the labels from these jeans (2006?) were the first bigger (new) labels l'd seen and they were a sign of things to come. Also, as a side note, if you look at the photos in the booklet you can clearly see that they are not 1915 201's at all, but in fact modern, beltlooped jeans. 2004-2009 were the darkest days for lvc imo.

 

 

 

Edited September 28 by Dr_Heech
spelling

[Dr_Heech]

Part 2.

^lvc booklets, most seasons from 2002-2005 plus two earlier 1996 VS ones and the top two left ones are 2007 (the 1880 XX discussed earlier) and the second run of 551ZXX from c.2016? l won them in a Denimbro competition but didn't gel with them. They were a cheapened version of my 555 pair so gave them to a pal after a short wear period. 

 

^pocket flashers and waistband tags

 

^And some close ups of the dates/codes etc. The codes on the back of the pocket flashers all start with a V for Valencia Street (?) and the jacket ones start with JV.  The flashers are all dated 1996 apart from the 1947 flasher dated 1999. Still got the original price tag on the 555 551ZXX flasher, although l didn't pay that much for them 😁

 

Guarantee tickets and stf size info stickers - there's even a For Over 90 years ticket (bottom right) but fk knows where that came from? -

 

^ random selection of stuff, some already posted in the vintage repros thread. The label bottom left is a waistband tags from the 1873 duck vest.

 

^later labelling (like the vault piece 201's) which was larger and more generic about info sizing etc. These are from a western shirt, a henley, my Triple pleat (including unused leather patch) and my Hap Jones sweat (now long sold).

 

^look at all that gumph! Sheesh. This was all the stuff that came with my 1944's from 2010, my last purchase from Cinch in Newburgh street,  London.

 

^Tags from my  more recent USA made 1922s. The fit was awful so l sold them on.  Much prefer my WH 1922s (1915 belt loop model), sorry.

 

 

Edited September 15, 2025 by Dr_Heech
To add stuff

[airfrogusmc]

Dr H, you have saved a lot more stuff than I did over the years. I have pretty much all the same bags you have but here's one I can't remember what i came with. Any idea anybody? String is missing. 

[Dr_Heech]

13 minutes ago, airfrogusmc said:

Dr H, you have saved a lot more stuff than I did over the years. I have pretty much all the same bags you have but here's one I can't remember what i came with. Any idea anybody? String is missing. 

Thanks Allen. No idea about that bag but looks like something from the 2010's? 209 overalls?

 

Edited September 14, 2025 by Dr_Heech

[airfrogusmc]

21 minutes ago, Dr_Heech said:

Thanks Allen. No idea about that bag but looks like something from the 2010's? 209 overalls?

 

That's kinda what I was think'n.