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Freewheelers, Bootleggers Reunion, Bubo, etc.

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2 hours ago, Dr_Heech said:

Wow, it's like visiting a shop! :ohmy:

... that’s not selling anything 

The Duchess says that - thankfully she’s always been very positive tho’

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Here’s small change I made to the Locomotive Fireman shirt - the collar had ‘button-holes’ but there was no buttons on the shirt for them (perhaps the buttonholes were for a pin or something like that) ... it kinda annoyed me, so I asked FW for a couple of matching buttons and hey presto ...

0BB5374E-8FF8-4CE5-9620-DEAA3A4C5B55.jpeg

69B52681-4B9A-400B-854D-90026DD04E4B.jpeg

382E433A-7DDD-4D8E-B9A2-38ABF66CDC1F.jpeg

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Considering 47s or 51s after seeing those pictures on the previous page duke... seriously, what a beautiful pair. Any info on how long they’ve used this denim for?

Unfortunately I bring issues and trauma to the table... should I expect further inseam shrinkage from a one wash pair? I’m seeing measurements on rakuten listing the inseam on my size at 83cm, mostly 82cm- that length may work, but I simply can’t go shorter than that, and even that may be too short... I’d be very happy if someone told me there was a dealer with long inseams, but I don’t think that’s the case.

Please let me know of any other important sizing information...

Advice here is much appreciated.

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I bought a pair of one wash 43s and have not experienced any inseam shrink despite several trips through the washer and dryer. I wish there was some to be had, my pair is way too long. I find that since the rise is so high the inseam feels longer than stated online. 

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I bought one wash 47s from Hoosier and see little to no extra shrink 

I also sized down to a 33 fore a more fitted top block 

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14 hours ago, ameritech said:

Considering 47s or 51s after seeing those pictures on the previous page duke... seriously, what a beautiful pair. Any info on how long they’ve used this denim for?

Unfortunately I bring issues and trauma to the table... should I expect further inseam shrinkage from a one wash pair? I’m seeing measurements on rakuten listing the inseam on my size at 83cm, mostly 82cm- that length may work, but I simply can’t go shorter than that, and even that may be too short... I’d be very happy if someone told me there was a dealer with long inseams, but I don’t think that’s the case.

Please let me know of any other important sizing information...

Advice here is much appreciated.

Thank you

FW denim has been unchanged since the demise of bootleggers - so about 10 years. There have been a few tweaks on the warp yarn but nothing much else.

51s normally come in either 30in or 32in inseam - I vaguely recall a 34in leg version but I’m sure it was on waist sizes above 33in and most definitely not widely available. 47s are normally 32in inseam only (again there might have been a 34in but it’ll like finding hen’s teeth), unless you consider the unwashed version ... although then you’ll get shrinkage back down to 32in (give or take) once washed.

All that said, if the 32 is long enough then don’t worry about shrinkage ... they won’t unless you try to boil them and then put them in a tumble dryer hot.

I’m pretty sure I posted a sizing chart a few pages back but the Genco website is accurate.


Edit

The 34in does still exist - albeit very limited and in truth it’s as much about keeping the pattern correct at bigger sizes as it is about servicing the taller customer

an example here: https://www.the-klamp.jp/product/38

 

Edit

Hoosier have some 34in 51s

Edited by Duke Mantee

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My old 47's from 2013 were tagged 34"

fullsizeoutput_63e

I got them from Mirrorball and seem to remember at that time there was more 34" floating around than 32" cos given the choice i would have bought 32"

They were mad long in raw state, i think 34" was post shrink but they ended up 34"+ after a hot soak.

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57 minutes ago, Double 0 Soul said:

My old 47's from 2013 were tagged 34"

I got them from Mirrorball and seem to remember at that time there was more 34" floating around than 32" cos given the choice i would have bought 32"

They were mad long in raw state, i think 34" was post shrink but they ended up 34"+ after a hot soak.

Thanks for that Neal

I was looking through all the catalogues and each year a 601XX is issued there’s often a 34L made available (albeit in normally unwashed format) - and I also saw what you’ve proved, it wasn’t just on bigger waist sizes. The 30L and 32L are very popular and the 34L less so - meaning despite the fact there are less 34L produced, it might actually be possible to get a pair without as much difficulty as I first thought.

Given my legs stopped growing well before the rest of my body, I tend to avoid leg lengths bigger than mothercare sizes.

(BTW, the it was confirmed patterning issue apparently was a nightmare to create multiple lengths)

Edited by Duke Mantee

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If i could have landed a 32" i would have avoided the pain of the aftermarket chainstitch.. and in this instance Mike, it was very painful, i'll email you the gory deets.

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Haha! The Xxxx Xxxxx hemming saga :D

Edited by Maynard Friedman
Secret Squirrel...

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Been a little while - lockdown blues, job hunting, house upheaval and lots of other irrelevant excuses - so my apologies to to those who are interested, and to those who aren’t ... you’ve been very welcome. So, some 60s/70s classics to start:

Freewheelers ‘Little Wing’ Vintage Color 12.5oz Denim, Dolphin (Blue/Green) #1521006

1521006 Little Wing.jpg

Edited by Duke Mantee

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Freewheelers Type A-1 ‘Civilian’ Original Heavy Weight Wool Melton, Navy #1631001

1631001 A-1.jpg

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Freewheelers Utility Jacket, Flannel Lined Vintage Military Cordlane, Olive #1421013

1421013 Utility Olive.jpg
 

(Sorry about the moire effect - it only seems to appear when I post the pic, it’s not on my photo editor so I’m not sure how to fix it)

Edited by Duke Mantee

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Freewheelers Utility Jacket, Flannel Lined Vintage Military Cordlane, Wasted Navy #1421013

1421013 Utility Navy.jpg

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The Little Wing is really cool even though I don't think I would wear one, but the Speed Demon is especially nice. That Bordeaux corduroy is just so beautiful.

Edited by dudewuttheheck

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7 hours ago, the shivman said:

Great pieces Duke. I forgot you had the civilian a-1. The wool on it looks exquisite.

Thanks man - the wool is the same as that used on the USN Overcoat, beautiful 

6 hours ago, dudewuttheheck said:

The Little Wing is really cool even though I don't think I would wear one, but the Speed Demon is especially nice. That Bordeaux corduroy is just so beautiful.

The Little Wing was one I always thought I wanted in the purple haze bullhide - probably THE most beautiful leather/colour combo - but I knew I’d never wear it enough to justify the outlay so the denim version was a nice compromise 

D0921DCE-0ED5-440F-97DE-D4EEC3845128.jpeg

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Ah yes, I remember the purple bullhide one. Absolutely stunning and purple is my favorite color, but it's one of those items that I'd rather hang on a wall as art than wear myself.

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Compare the Little Wing to this Jelado Winchester - same inspiration but poorer execution I think. Refer my attitude to FW patterning (and grading)

EB29F2E7-578B-412E-B3E5-28A9266A49AB.jpeg

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Wow, quite a downgrade IMO as well. The collar and yoke look out of proportion on the Jelado version. I also much prefer the pocket flap design on the Freewheelers version and the shape of the slash pockets below them. 

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On 5/20/2020 at 10:52 AM, Duke Mantee said:

Ok another little batch. I think we need to smarten up so here’s some of my ‘sack coats’

Freewheelers Jackson Late 1800’s Tailored Hunting Coat, Original Heavyweight Moleskin, Yarn Dyed Black #1121001

1121001 Jackson.jpg

(Sorry to respond to such an old post; hopefully that's kosher.)

Hi, Duke.  How did you size the Jackson jacket/vest/pants?  I just got the ensemble from Speedway and while I really dig the details and the fabric, it is VERY baggy.  Shoulders on the jacket are perfect, as is the waist on the trousers, so I think I chose the right size, and I was expecting a full cut, but this is maybe a bit too full for my tastes.  In the fit pics I've seen you post here, it looks like the suit fits you very well.  Did you get everything tailored?

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What size did you get? I’m interested in tracking down the jacket someday so I’m interested in measurements compared to those from different stores.

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19 minutes ago, Broark said:

What size did you get? I’m interested in tracking down the jacket someday so I’m interested in measurements compared to those from different stores.

42 jacket.  34 trousers.  Happy to measure for you...  I'm actually still waiting on the vest because Speedway didn't have it and the seller I found wants to use EMS, who apparently still aren't shipping to the US.

It really is an awesome suit.

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I’m probably more of a 44, but I’d be interested in the jacket measurements in 42 if you have the time!

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