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Ok, so here they are, washed a time or 2, the one on the right has been worn more by me. Labeled CR07, paper tag. The fit is just perfect, and it’s my favorite type 2 I have. I believe it’s the xx2 denim, but correct me if I’m wrong.

I wouldn't want this thread to unravel... but it's like going into a 30s repro thread (if one existed) and saying what's the point of adding a cinch and suspender buttons to the jeans, or a 50s thread and asking for a 25cm rise instead. Or looking at the latest TCB 1890s repro and questioning why there's only one pocket... If the manufacturers are doing a repro, then if what they're copying has wonky-ness then I'd expect them to replicate that. It's just a feature of the time. When the bloke above snips off the extra thread and gets some wear into the jacket, it'll come up looking grand imo. I'm a sucker for a variety of denim jackets... so happy to embrace the repro features... I am always taken by how the industry does reinvent and evolve itself with new versions or repeated versions of repeated versions... the new 1942s, the 1890s, the... will it ever end... hopefully not... long live Sufu!

Back home, backlit Tilley / Bubo / Hollows / Vanishing West / Frank’s

At Last 147 and 677J / Big Yank by Anatomica / Duke Mantee / Viberg

Inspiration 01s just arrived, will get some photos up comparing them to the 03s.

It was FW choice. Sushi doesn’t agree with the ‘wonky’ stitching for much the same reason I do. It did exist, it always had, albeit new factories and therefore new operatives (as Doc rightly says) caused some issues which subsequently settled as those operatives gained experience. Control standards were certainly lower because Levi’s were coining it in with increased output but as with every process a level of equilibrium is established. I just think brands are looking for extreme examples to make their mark. In any event FW didn’t see any reason to ask a high quality factory to produce low quality work so there was only a nod to the ‘wonkiness’ … that from the factory owner.

^^^^Also don't forget only one factory going into WW2 (1942) and at least 3 factories coming out so alot of new and untrained machine operators and a change in the new, more simplified design of the 501xx for skilled/trained levis employees to have to rush through for service industries.

Loved my Csf S501XX when l got it back in 2016 but it didn't have any wild wonky stitching at all apart from the pleat stitching maybe but l still thought it was quite subtle. The Denim and cotton stitching gave it that aura of the Real deal though and l'm glad l still have the 41 and 44 WW2 jeans. The FW1942's are actually based on pre-WW2 501's and they were a kind of test sample materials- wise (eg new denim and copper coated iron) but still pre-war in terms of quality construction not under any necessary constraints or pressures. Hopefully FW will convey this in their reproduction of them although l'm under little doubt as l've preordered both.

In thinking about this, I also consider the brands’ sewing machine operators.. I know that many brands here focus on extremely accurate reproductions, but perhaps this late trend to amplify stitching ‘errors’ is an emergence of the latent artistry of the sewers themselves. I know for myself as an artist, if you put me down in front of a flower and ask me to draw it, I’ll tend to over-emphasize the curviness of the leaves and the shading of the petals over all else. That’s my own deviance from realism that I’ve found emerged subconsciously from my own artistic practice over the years, and it’ll surely be different from that of the next artist who comes in to draw the same scene. I think you can make a strong case that the sewing work done for these brands is more like factory work than like art, but I do wonder if in designing these repros whether the people assigned to come up with the sewing pattern don’t relish the chance for a little extra wonkiness, their creative touch in an industry that for the most part seemed quite a bit more rigid in its techniques. Totally not basing this off anything, just a speculation!

Maybe this is overly cynical, but I don’t see it as a total coincidence that so many new, low-volume one-man brands are popping up right during the craze of wonky-stitched WW2 jeans. When it comes down to it, just as in the case of the original Levi’s, wonky jeans can be made more easily and more quickly by less skilled machinists. I appreciate the more optimistic take that in many cases it might be a conscious design decision or an artistic liberty, but in more than a few cases I’d bet that it’s just an excuse for someone who’s really not ready to be selling jeans to the public to do so under the guise of reproduction.

I’m not sure I agree with this. The cinch/suspender buttons/number of pockets, etc were functional/design features of the jeans in certain eras and would have been standard across all pairs produced by a company (such as Levi’s). Obviously there may have been slight variations where one factory may have made still added a crotch rivet or cinch after others had stopped, etc. Wonky stitching wasn’t a functional/design feature, it was an accidental quirk simply due to untrained/inexperienced machinists and possibly poor QC. I’m sure there were thousands of WW2 pairs made with perfectly good, straight stitching and conversely quite likely a number of pairs from other eras with bad stitching, loose threads, etc (although these may have been more likely to have been picked up by QC). The wonkiness is simply a feature of some pairs that repro manufacturers have chosen to focus on, which, even if commonplace was not standard or deliberate at the time.

Reopening the chat with @shredwin_206 @Duke Mantee in the FW thread on the 42 denim... I'm hearing again that the denim is not new (it's the WW2 denim used on the recent models) however the features are new. I know Shred heard the opposite... x-wires somewhere...

… in that Levi’s operatives in 1942 most certainly didn’t have the time to be artistic

getting hammered. Relentless beatings on this workshirt and jeans

Gotta wonder if someone intercepted your package in shipping, knew what it was, copped your P38's and replaced with shitty sweatpants? This is one big problem with shipping in original ACR box...

I don’t think it was ever something I loved or hated, but those old discussions are old and that just reinforces my lack of enjoyment for what’s being made now. We’ve seen it done … and probably done better. It’s a tough one though, because every label just want to sell their product and if war denim and that era is the thing they want to push then who am I to complain? After all I make a mean 30s-40s belt 😉

M41200 action shot feat. Tilley, Great Lakes, Frank’s, dog

Saw the spectacular amazing and talented Sierra Ferrel this week and had to get my Y'all-ternative on. Barlesoni Homburg Lots of rings Cropped Levi's Western shirt Vintage 1984 Olympics tee (as worn by Val Kilmer in Real Genius) Painted leather belt Mister Feeedom Outlaw Vintage Justin's with tulip inlay and homemade bootstrap. This T shirt is one of my most prized vintage items and probably the rarest tee I own. Obviously no provenance but since it came from California you can't prove it's *not* the screen used shirt!

comp or not, I have made my tux order: 46 jacket, 38w jeans (requested hemming to 80cm) cons: I need another jeans like holes in heads I need another jacket like a hole in wallet these jeans are not standard easy wear; slim-ish cut, yet thin material yes; one back pocket, no belt loop for keys etc. ultimate sloppy man baby diaper look pros; nostalgieeee: for those wanting 1990s jeans; this late 1800s models is reference from which Levis late 1990s twisted jeans was running (maybe more y2k refrance, but hey...) nostalgieeeeeeee 2: these were first model I got from lvc back in the late 90s; seeing as I run a trio of tcb, tender, lvc; wanna wee what tcb do with this original pair to build from having multiple lvc examples love of the meta; yes; no.2 as brand positioning... the first two Viktor's voice jackets don't look right (inc. lucky jeans): this is getting there more imo; mostly also tcb is obviously developing its own specific jacket pattern methodology of wide shoulders and sloppy fits: the numbers on this look squarer, even if not 'classic'... pockets looks excellent; both back pocket on jeans and front pocket on jacket yes to the styling in the shoot; not miner cosplay; more skatecore and sloppy old 'uns style: I appreciate that (definitely recommend not skating in any jeans with suspender buttons; had some nasty sk8 face-plants when wearing such jeans: they are placed to puncture skin in painful bony areas...); feeling this is a track suit more than anything... want to see how the fabric ages; every tcb pair I've had has been a journey; even the 10oz bib overalls have a lot to give: I expect these will be giving a lot given the status play of making an 1890s from an original; not had natural indigo from them b4 huge plus: ultimate sloppy man baby diaper look; goes well with pecos and converse... experience: said this in all comp. threads; every tcb jean I have owned has shrunk to tagged waist size; more ppl have dropped out from jeans being too small rather than too big... wearing big on these across time also allows layering needed in winter... yes; 31cm front rise seems small, but is in line with the last cone 1870s lvc offering (picture uploaded here is said w.36 l.34 pair - from raw soaked - line dried, not machine washed ) - the back rise is the core matter... can definitely understand hesitancy in uptake for a comp. - its not classic 5 pocket jawns, jacket has particular character; but it is what it is... a marmite model...

Looking forward to reading review from whoever copped the P24A- KI, curious to hear how the standardized cotton compares to stotz. First time this fabric has been used?

I'm not sure I agree with this 😃

I suppose I’m just a disagreeable fellow! 😆

All cool doc... it only really reminded me of the FW thread chat hence my update above

When l said new denim l meant for the 501xx at the time, so a change from the standard 1937 denim to the WW2 denim, even though the US weren't officially at war at the time. So another transitional model really. Edit- decided to change the wording in my original post for clarity.

Gold rep

Care to add some wonky imperfections to your belts?😁

welcome back @yoallanface \m/ vintage alpha wispa rei potato socks novis hermes + salvation army impulse buys

Very cool, thanks for passing that on. I’ll be there!

The QC threshold is if it’s sewn neatly/accurately/symmetrically with no loose threads - then it fails and has to be redone!

TL\DR - scam happened, I am upset, be aware of @dcl_max, his insta, ebay, https://www.reversible.com/user/dcl_max/listings Another rant, but on me getting screwed on Reversible(ish): Found this listing of p38 on reversible from user dcl_max . After contacting him, he asked for direct payment with Alipay. Due to all feedback that he had on reversible page + eBay link and that he also on Sufu forum, I agreed and transferd fund to this wallet (I am an idiot, I know ). He shipped, and even used acronym box to do so, but when we opened it, inside was some stinky rags that someday were grey sweatpants Idk why you did something like that, risking all your rep over some petty 2.3k usd, but still. After confronting him in the chat, he stated to act like he doesn't know anything, plead to his reviews, and after that trying to blame me in changing pants on delivery etc etc So yea, this is very stupid and bad situation for me and seems like there no way to get money back (or pants) and its my fault that I got myself into transferring fund to strangers on the internet, but this will be a lesson for someone else out there. Unless @dcl_max you willing to cooperate instead of blaming me, post and customs. If so - please contact me in our DM on reversible and let's figure our shit out. Otherwise DO NOT BUY ACR from or be aware of fraud from @dcl_max, his insta, ebay, https://www.reversible.com/user/dcl_max/listings

Finally saw some real drama happen to this ridiculous guy...I am always wondering what he really keeps in his mind for making all his ridiculous price posts since the first time I saw him on Grailed..Hope you can get your money back asap

Honestly, I’m just seeing these exaggerated ‘machinist errors’ as a bit of a joke now. Every new effort seems to want to outdo the last one. I know I have a slightly different view to how this ‘poor quality’ might have manifested itself originally but these modern iterations just don’t convey the spirit of wartime efforts - more like they are ‘ripping the arse out of it’* *reproduced from The Dictionary of Modern Scottish Language (current edition)

Saint James - Duke - SC1946 - Alfred Sargent

the brand's name is Militora.

Kapital, Sugar Cane (not visible), Ooe…and Blundstones which aren’t my fave but the default choice for shitkicking in the mud season here.

understanding very much discussions above; good luck with the socialisation; takes a village to raise the child... (or via Lev Vgotsky; it is through others we becomes ourselves...) 1960s finnish army surplus (m62) / lvc 1870s / pecos

Worst case scenario @Broark, the SE Austin guys can probably build you a small apartment behind the shop...

@Alec Leamas I still have a hard time dropping off my son but more than a year in I am sure it has been the best thing for him. His socialization skills have wildly improved, his imagination has grown in ways it wouldn't have at home, and most of all, he's been able to learn from more people that are not his two parents and while we do our best and contain multitudes, we cannot show him everything. It gets easier, but it never gets easy. Everyone is different, but in general I think it's quite good for the kids and harder for the parents.

Top to bottom - MF, SC, Ooe, FW, Lofgren

https://www.instagram.com/p/C6FcezhuOC9/ Feels like another life...

Denim Dan goes to Tulip Town 1927 type 1 1937 jeans

Tempo Design Store - Mastermade Goods | Est. 2017 Rue du Midi 11 Lausanne, Switzerland TempoDesignStore.com Women & Men: @TempoMastermadeGoods Home: @TempoDesignStore Monocle Magazine: Setting up shop in the Swiss Alps in November was a culmination of the travels of business partners Pablo de Pinho and Ana Deffarges (writes Claudia Jacob). The co-founders of Lausanne’s Tempo concept shop unearthed an affinity for craft culture while travelling around Brazil, Tokyo, California and Montréal, before putting down roots in the Helvetic city. “It’s rare to find lifestyle shops in Switzerland,” says De Pinho. “After getting so much inspiration living and studying across three continents, we knew that Lausanne was missing something.” The result is a selection of tasteful design objects from across the world, featuring items from furniture ateliers such as Bangalore’s Phantom Hands and Copenhagen-based Frama. There are also luxurious leather goods from Tokyo’s Hender Scheme and Taiwan’s Kamaro’an, as well as garments from Galicia’s Lichen Goods. Tempo sits at the foot of the mountains overlooking Lake Geneva and its ethos of slow living is effortless to embrace. tempodesignstore.com -> List of Brands & Designers

^ I suspect it may be a case of 'once bitten, twice shy' Interestingly, I mentioned this to an informed friend for comment... the FW tab is actually burgundy, not red... seems the spectre over tab sewing is real 1998/99 Canes v FW 1937... (Sorry to derail thread but it's linked to the above)

For comparison on the SC tux Japan retail: Blouse 52000 Yen = ~£272 Jeans 42000 Yen = ~£220 Total 94000 Yen = ~£492 Versus UK retail: £649 £599 Total £1248 Massive difference... not even close... and therefore harder to rationalise through import costs, taxes and overheads... as Japan aint exactly a low cost retail centre either I'm all for supporting 'local' businesses and I've bought previously from CC et al - and would again - but there are limits to that

Lovely condition. I still think that the leather patch is still the hardest part for repro brands to come close to the vintage examples.

Finally got my dappers x csf aftet 5 years of wIting

Freewheelers WWII jeans

Post soaked

How fortunate am I that my new wife insisted I wear my old Cone Mills '44 501's on our wedding day.