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Have you missed me?.. We've been visiting Crete so get yourself comfy for a mega-post I picked up this Suzuki Ignis Hybrid in the airport.. small cars rule here, the last thing you want driving through villages on narrow roads or passing a local in a battered old pick-up truck on a mountain pass is a big-ass car.. It wasn't as enjoyable to drive as the Fiat's i've driven around Italy, but decent enough. This is the first year i've had a modern smartphone.. google maps is just a revelation for travelling! .. the places where we stay are often on "unnamed roads" which i can't type that into the Nav.. additional confusion with the Greek alphabet with their Pi, Omega and upside down f'kin triangles!! .. it's more like a maths equation ..I dropped a pin on google maps and it took me straight there.. our house was here. ..before we left, I was trying to build a gmaps itinerary of addresses so i didn't have to worry about typing confusing shit in while i was there. I was struggling with one aspect so I called the offspring over (he types with both thumbs simultaneously) .. he said, and I quote “Oh my god, you’re such a fucking boomer" (I’m actually Gen-X) "give it to me” .. 10 seconds later and he’d sorted it Then he said “this is an impression of you trying to use your phone“ and started repeatedly poking it with his index finger.. .. Just wait till he wants his laptop fixing! This is our first house in Kalami* (more of that later) nestled in the trees on the outskirts of Kalyves ..the view from our balcony, the cicadas were deafening! .. the mantis were in their millions! The first night we drove into Kalyves looking for somewhere to eat.. it's a very traditional Cretan village, i spotted some tables and they invited us in, we were starving having not eaten since leaving the house at 6am.. we ordered lots of food, there was just us, a large Greek family and a young Greek couple having a romantic evening meal. A small band set up, a guy on keyboards, a guy on guitar and a guy on bouzouki, i thought 'Ow! i hope this isn't going to be some tourist shit' but i couldn't have been more wrong, it was very traditional Greek, folks were taking turns to sing songs, even the restaurant staff came out for a sing. ..after a couple of hours Sarah said 'i wish they'd clear our table' so eventually, i asked for the bill, at which point they cleared the plates immediately and brought out a small vase of ice-cold Raki and 3x shot glasses.. we obviously didn't know the etiquette. Kid was like, "Hellooo!!" I've never really liked Raki but this village Raki was different, no aniseed flavour, made with herbs.. when it was gone, they brought out another bottle and 3x free desserts.. The Greek dancing started, just the old fellas then the younger women joined in.. i was applauding at the end of one song.. an old timer came over and said "i'm glad you liked it, our timing was a bit out, the old folks dance a different style to the younger folks" .. What the!? .. I'd drunk 2x 500ml Mythos and 9x shots of Raki.. like i'm going to understand the intrinsic nature of Greek dancing.. We had to leave to car and walk home through the dirt.. we got home at 2.30am.. having walked off the alcohol, the boy and i went night swimming. Deserves a quiet night This is another village where we ate called Aptera, every single meal in the villages ends with lots of free Raki ..nice view of the mountains Hello I wanted to explore this abandoned village while we were in *Kalami.. it's not mapped so i spent hours searching satellite images https://filmfreeway.com/1385354 ..eventually i found the coordinates on a Greek hiking forum, it was a different 'Kalami' at the other side of the island .. the fk! no wonder the sat-nav doesn't work properly. .. 5 days later we moved on from the peace and tranquility of Kalami and i drove to our next destination on the outskirts of Chania Old Town. We rented this fancy-ass house for 5 days (it cost more to rent this place for one night than the previous place cost for all 5 nights).. top balcony was the doors from our living space and the bottom balcony was the doors from the front bedrooms. Kitchen.. ..out of the doors was the roof terrace to the top right you can just see a minaret which rang a bell around 6pm.. ..it slept 8 ..The street view below our balcony Chania is a mix of Venetian and Turkish with traditional and modern architecture, old town has historic monument status.. it's built.. according to the archaeological research, on the ruins of ancient Kydonia, Kydonians are supposed to be a pre-Hellenic tribe. During the ancient period (3.000-2.800 B.C.) the old harbor was used by Minoans, as a crossroad of all five continents.. it was conquered many times during the past by Romans, Byzantines, Venetians, Turks, Hebrews, Egyptians, and Arabs, till the end of the 19th century, when it was liberated... so a good mix. The city comes alive at 11am and goes to sleep at 4am.. (my teenagers preferred hours) i took these photos at 10.08am and the streets are still deserted. ..harbour panorama This was part of Chania Film Festival, it was an exhibition of album artwork ..crumbly old Cretan mixed with urban hip. ..street market ..herbs ..A yawning cat photo which the boy took featuring my Dapper's shirt, Supreme shorts and Nike 78 Elite ..tourist shot of the lighthouse at sunset More Later...

We often ate breakfast at Monogram at the end of our street ..iced rose (or white) tea and freddo-espresso (sadly, it didn't come with a chocolate frog) was the drink of the morning. ..in the footsteps of Anthony Bourdain, one day i walked from Old Town to Bougatsa Chania, most of the city is pedestrianised so i just left the car on a dirt banking on the outskirts of the city for the week and walked everywhere.. Bougatsa dates back to Byzantine period and became popular in Crete following the Greco-Turkish war in the early 20s when a population exchange saw Greeks living in Turkey returned to Greece.. Anthony will elucidate.. It only cost me 3€ ..kid didn't fancy it so he went to the Greek Football Museum instead ..he said the owner was super-passionate about football shirts. Soon as he walked through the door the owner said "what country are you from?" and took the boy to the vintage England section, showed him photos of Pele, Maradona and Cruyff wearing shirts then let him hold the actual shirt in the photo .. lots of amazing donations in here. ..again, gmaps was great because i could just pin the boy coordinates and say.. "i'm eating lunch here do you want to join me" ? This was Dominico's .. the only hand rolled gelato on the island ..mixing ..it's stainless steel with liquid nitrogen underneath ..spreading, i had espresso (with a shot of espresso) Sarah had pistachio ..offspring had strawberry and mango with coconut milk and yogurt base ..rolling ..a couple of days before we left, his friend Oli turned up.. we didn't see much of them for the last 2 days. fin.

JCrew Short Sleeve, Hollows belt, Flat Head key holder, Buzz Rickson Original Spec chinos, Wesco 7500 boots. I got sunburnted at a car show yesterday, so I look even goofier than usual, hopefully the wacky shirt distracts a bit.

SCSC 1942 jeans... sized up at w36, maximum cinch applied, with big f-off cuff!!

Chopper Builders looking good! Came across these 1950s vintage Carter's denim which I presume form most of the inspiration. They did bib overalls with the same layered front pockets and double knee as well.

Thanks @MJF9! Hope to be added to the list of cancer survivors. I guess I'll make this a PSA (public service announcement) on the PSA (prostrate specific antigen). All men should know (eventually) about their PSA level. It is a possible indicator of prostate cancer. If your general physician doesn't do an annual test for this in your blood labs, have them add it. While it's not a 100% fool proof test, if it is rising (hence the annual check to keep tabs) and you also have other symptoms (which can be very vague) then an MRI may be warranted. My story is no drug use, no smoking, low alcohol use and only one person with cancer in my family background. But the symptoms can be very little things that add up over time and you may pass them off as "I'm getting older". Pay attention to your urinary function and your sexual function and give all details (even minor) to your doctor. It can add up to an aggressive tumor in your prostrate, which can also spread cancer to other regions (luckily, mine did not). I'm just putting this out there because it may help even one of you catch things early!! Stay healthy and listen to your body. Cheers

Nice, love Crete. I think, the Raki there is more like Grappa. The Turkish Raki is like Ouzo or Pastis, Pernod. They are very friendly there and one gets offered Raki all the time. The food can be a bit heavy (if you have say an anticristo) and the Raki makes it surprisingly easy to digest. You got to try some sheep or goat ice cream. And try the Mastica taste, kind of special. There is also a mineral water infused with Mastica (supposed to be good for the stomach). I really like Rethimno. Perhaps an idea. Also, if you have the time- go to Spili. Nice chill town. Nearby is a herb garden and store with a restaurant. Amazing stuff like Mountain tea and salad herbs and much more. From Spili you can go to Preveli beach. In Chania I remember a nice old cafe/bistro near the fountain in the center of town. Perhaps you've been there already. Enjoy your trip

Haha yeah I feel like Freewheelers are good at finding vintage stuff that looks very Freewheelers-y if that makes sense, and then they have some original designs. Sometimes hard to tell which is which. I forget which jacket design but there was one where I assumed oh all those extra elaborations of stitching and pockets on top of pockets must be a FW exaggeration of period design... then saw the exact vintage piece on Fake Alpha or somewhere and was like ohhh

I did the same but he gave some of it back 😅 (I will hold onto it tho as l know he'll change his mind later on down the road)

Continuing the motorcycle theme Roland Sands//vintage bandanna/whitesville/iron heart/chippewa(no vis)/triumph

Oh, I had one shortly after this was taken.

M41057 update Planning on transitioning these from mostly climbing use to regular wear and switching in the M41059 for climbing Love the shade of blue this fabric gets to

File this under reflections. Home recovering from surgery and I realize how often we take for granted how nice it is to just be "normal". I would love to be able to just normally go to the bathroom, shower, or put on a pair of jeans right now. I will try to remember this when I return to normal.

chopper builder pants getting a proper break in. unfortunately brushed up against some work carts that someone had recently painted yellow. Should fade out over time though. Haha

I feel these days more often than not the whole “made in X country” thing is either a xenophobic dog whistle made in bad faith, or a “good faith” desire to reshore industrial manufacturing in societies that have now developed post-industrial economies and are probably .. I mean definitely .. never going back. the problem with the latter argument is that offshoring is a natural result of globalized neoliberalism and the free trade agreements that come with it. It’s just a reality that practically all manufacturing these days requires materials & labor from many countries often on opposite sides of the globe. I’m sure you all have seen those videos on how a single t-shirt takes materials from like a half dozen countries and travels twice around the world before it’s stocked in some mall in Nebraska for $8.99 - or if not that maybe the video from when the U.S.’ steel tariffs were first announced showing the impact that would have on the price of “U.S. Made” Ford pickup trucks (they went up many many thousands of dollars… because most of the truck’s parts come from overseas). And all the executives at Ford were wringing their hands saying it would take decades to shift their manufacturing back to the U.S., but still somehow making the claim their vehicles are made here. That is to say, I’m not sure why any one shoemaker that claims their stuff is made in the U.S. is getting flak more than any other one for that not actually being the case. I love my Mexican huaraches, Colombian congas and Iranian rug because they’re made by amazing and talented craftspeople, not because they have some magical quality derived from their country of origin. I wish we could evolve this whole conversation to have an appreciation for the many many hands and cultures that come together to make everything in the modern world. It’s really amazing when you think about it! Instead we pretend that 3/4 of the global supply chain doesn’t exist and that we’re too good for goods made, even in part, in less developed countries… and we do so surrounded by things made in those very countries!!

Slash Overalls is a one man brand operating in Shizuoka Japan, and has been operating since around ~2021. Originally he started offering custom jeans, allowing his customers to pick various details: denim, pocket and yoke shape, pocket bag fabrics, cut, etc. Most of these jeans were loosely based on different historical eras that we all know and love. However they were not always marketed as strict reproductions, but more creative interpretations. Many of these had (quite distinct) arcs, which he has since moved away from. Below are a few examples of his earlier offerings ('37, '40s, late 1890s Miner Jeans). (*Photo credit: Slash Overalls Instagram) He also ran a series of "grunge models", which had more irregular sewing features. These might seem haphazard, but as mentioned in his blog post the irregular sewing details are intentional and quite difficult to reproduce. (*Photo credit: Slash Overalls blog) In his pursuit of creating a more accurate repro, he graduated to working directly with denim mills on developing his own fabrics to use. With this change in production mentality, he stopped offering custom made jeans and began releasing products in batches. I can't quite figure out the exact rhyme or reason to how each different batch aligns which the denim used, but they are all slight variations. One of the first offerings was the LF44, then NP01, SO02 (aka NP02,), and SL01 (developed in collaboration with Okamoto Textile Co.). LF44: LF44, aged: NP01: NP01, 1 year of wear: SO02: SL01: (*Photo credit: Slash Overalls blog and Instagram) The last two are more recent releases (late '24), and thus I don't think I've seen any faded photos yet. As seen above, he also makes a few variations of denim jackets, mostly inspired by WWII models and late 40's type I's. One interesting aspect of the way he sizes and grades the patterns for his denim jackets is that he does not adjust the body or sleeve length for larger sizes. He doesn't list the body or sleeve length on product pages, and says that one should be able to size his jackets based on chest and shoulder measurements. I've seen an Instagram post where he states this is how Levi's used to pattern and size their jackets, but I personally am not sure if this is 100% accurate. I haven't gotten one of the jackets yet, but I'm hoping to add one in the future. (*Photo credit: Slash Overalls Instagram and IG user oto_ten) Alongside his mainline jeans, his most recent undertaking is the XX Grade project. Focusing on reproducing jeans in the most accurate way possible, down to the materials used. These have only just started to be released, but my understanding is that he has been working with different machinists to recreate the machinery used in creating vintage two prong buttons. This line carries a steep price tag, but I haven't been able to track down a pair myself...yet. (*Photo credit: Slash Overalls blog) He also has been working on a line of "vintage aged" denim, assuming this is a similar oxidation process that we've seen from some other makers previously. This line has yet to be released, but I'm interested in the results once he is ready to release the finished product. (*Photo credit: Slash Overalls blog)

Most things I no longer want, or fit as I’d like, rather than try to sell, I just give them to my 17 yr old son!

Rare WAYWT in the wild Stevenson Overall Spellbound Red Wing

Tilley / Union Special / Bubo / Russell

UES shirt Orslow pants

Photo Test

Thanks for the warm welcome, all! I tried to photograph all the details of this pair. Does anyone know what the various numbers on the hang tag indicate? I'm referring to 7750 00, No. 70-00-5047 and Col. 93. It seems like the barcode is actually a combination of No. + Size + Col + 4.

Would you feel slightly deceived if you discovered your Mexican huaraches were made in Bangladesh, your Persian rug in Botswana, your Colombian congas in China? It doesn’t make them lesser products but displays a lack of transparency and possibly authenticity. You’re right that modern production supply chains are complex but some consumers simply want to have a bit more information about what they’re buying, particularly if they believe they’re paying a premium and that includes higher cost labour (with potentially better working conditions) to justify that price. Unfortunately, laws/rules around the provenance of goods seem to enable a broad interpretation and allow companies to deliberately confuse/mislead their customers.

This guy's blog has some decent images of some late 90s Joe McCoy stuff. The era Atsushi was involved with pre-Bootleggers/Freewheelers if I'm not mistaken.

new peace valley shirt is great

Delivering two cargoforks , I made two for someone in Denmark , and my friend can bring them with him on his holidays there. Turns out he is holidaying around the corner from where they need to go.

@atwm, thanks! Glad your family member is doing fine. Yes, the initial recovery sucks, mainly due to the catheter. If you've never had one, count yourself lucky. I also had a hernia that was fixed (got a buy one get one free), so my recovery is a little more painful and restrictions are longer. @MJF9, yep the dreaded rubber glove test. Which has been skipped at some of my annual physicals. My advice don't skip it! Ask for it if they aren't going to do it. They did detect a "nodule" during mine which was a cancerous tumor (found by followup MRIs). My doctor recommended the PSA check starting at age 55 or so for me. I had just switched to him. It increased each year (big warning sign). I think everyone should include it in their bloodwork, along with other things that can be tested (google all of the blood tests that can be done). Typically, at least in my area, that annual physical covers a "general" battery of tests on your blood. Including your PSA and testosterone level should be added at the least. If you baseline those now and test each year, it can help as an indicator of health changes. @Maynard Friedman thanks! Because my cancer didn't spread beyond the tumor, I have a great chance of being cancer free going forward. I'll have to order up some Studio D's from PSA for a WAYWT,

https://buyee.jp/item/jdirectitems/shopping/crossover-co_ooeyofukuten-lotoa01xx-0825?conversionType=service_page_search Try that link and see if it works. You would be ordering from their yahoo shop via buyee.

My partner inherited my lot 501 Edo Ai a while ago, but never ended up wearing them much, I guess because of how loud they were—mostly the streaky dye job. Recently, they bleached them and overdyed with indigo, hoping to end up with a more consistent color. I’m really pleased with how they turned out: hopefully they’ll end up seeing some more wear again

I offered a pair of jeans to a friend a few years ago, but he didn't like them. There are not many maniacs like us.

No cigarette?

I haven’t been selling anything on Grailed lately due to the increased processing fees. Not in the EU, but it’s equally as bad here in the US.

Like Maynard is alluding to, the problem I have with the whole thing isn't where the boots are actually made. It's the lack of transparency and outright deceit of their customers. It would be one thing if they didn't actively market and lean on the fact that their products are MiUSA, but for years it's a selling point and what they've always pushed about what makes their product "better". Oakstreet has posted a response and it's a longwinded nothing burger, which to me just further confirms that something is going on: reddit link And just to really drive it home, on 8/6 Oakstreet filed a claim with the USPTO to cancel Viberg's patent of the service boot: USPTO link I'm no lawyer and I know nothing about patent / trademark law, but the timing of the filing really makes you think.

Hi all - longtime reader, first-time poster. I figured this would be the best time as any to make an introduction post. I actually won the auction for the W36 pair, which fortunately had less activity than the other sizes. I have them on-hand now! It's pretty incredible handling a deadstock pair from this era. Kind of a blessing and a curse though - they've been in this state for so long, it's hard to justify taking the tags off and wearing them. For now, since I have a lot of other jeans, I'll keep them as-is and just be thankful that I have a piece of Japanese denim history. BTW - I took new measurements. Here they are, in raw non-wash state: Denime (Shins) 7750 00 No. 70-00-5047 Size 36 Col. 93 Waist: 37" / 94cm Front Rise: 12" / 30.5cm Back Rise: 15.75" / 40cm Upper Thigh: 13.5" / 34cm Thigh 4" (10cm) down: 12" / 30.5cm Knee: 9.75" / 25cm Leg Opening: 9" / 23cm Inseam: 37.5" / 95cm Very long inseam! As one might expect, these are almost identical to the measurements of a pair of raw Resolute 710s that I have, except with a wider leg opening. Happy to answer any questions about this pair or take photos if anyone was curious. Nice to meet you all!

So a bit of drama in the fancy shoe community, evidently Oak Street Bootmakers is being investigated by the FTC for false claims of their shoes being made entirely in the USA. Reddit link breaking down more information about the FTC warning. Specifically this Storm Boot is in question. They've recently released it (it's still headlining the front page of their website), but mysteriously all of them are now marked down 50%. To make things more interesting, Brett Viberg took to Instagram and seemed to call them out for their false claims as well say saying a former employee helped them establish the production and develop the last with proprietary Viberg lasts: Reddit link. So it appears that Oakstreet is producing the boots in the Dominican Republic, then importing them to have the sole attached and finally slapping a made in USA label on them. Oakstreet has since added an icon on their website saying the boots are "Made in USA with domestic and international materials from trusted sources". I know that this practice isn't uncommon in the industry by any means. I've always heard of some fishy things regarding Oakstreet, but this seems to firmly substantiate them.

Plant shutdown fit Stussy x lvc, Carhartt wip, boa

Been meaning to get this thread started for a little while, was just waiting for my second pair to arrive. The first pair (which was previously posted in the Unknown JP brands thead), was produced in the later half of '23 using the LF44 denim. This second pair (which I just received over the weekend) are made using the SO02 denim and are similarly based on a '47. The one thing that I find very interesting and hard to describe with this jeans is the "three-dimensionality" that you can feel in all the folds where different layers of fabric intersect. He mentions it often on his blog and Instagram, but there's something about it in person that is very unique. And here's some comparison shots, I haven't washed the SO02 yet and I've been wearing the LF44 a bit.

Asket Fullcount 0105ss Asics

I must’ve had this t-shirt for about 12 years now, it was originally a dark shade of indigo. Unfortunately, Sufu is displaying the bottom 2 photos with some kind of pattern/effect to the fabric that isn’t present on the originals.

Nice @MJF9! Hadn’t heard of the copper king jacket before it was mentioned wrt the Gardener release. I’m into the slanted square pockets. Hadn’t initially noticed the different pleats and lack of waist adjusters. If it wasn’t because I have a difficult time as-is getting wear into the few denim jackets have, I would be seriously considering this one.

More dark denim with nice grainy texture... Gardener 579XX Funky type 2 style based off the Copper King Lot 105 jacket (thanks to @Lorcan for the link) Same denim as @beautiful_FrEaK's jeans – very dark and nicely coarse… delightful denim is a good way to describe it. I had that pleasantly masochistic anxious feeling that the pattern wouldn’t work... obviously after I’d bought it. But a lap of the park gives me confidence that once the stiffness goes, it’ll be grand. Spiral website said it right… ‘The armholes are narrow, the sleeves are thick, the collar is high, and the waist is tightly tightened. I think you will enjoy a unique silhouette that is different from Company L’ The jacket itself is longer length than I usually wear… the good news is it goes nicely over the longer Freewheelers sweatshirts which cracks that particular issuette. I might cuff the sleeves if I’m wearing a t-shirt as they are pretty long, otherwise I’ll embrace them. Very nice service from Spiral via IG. Happy... and few pics out in the garden (local field) naturally...

I sized down two sizes for my SS's. I originally bought a 33 and then sized down once more to a 32 after the saggy butt and bunched up crotch became more apparent. As others have mentioned...if you're a shirt tucker I think the high back rise can look a little odd. I think sizing down two lost a little bit of the roominess in the legs I was looking for, but I still like the fit. If I could have the 32 waist with the 33 legs that would of been ideal for me.

Been looking for one of these in a good nick for a long time... and finally, the day has come. I was mounting up to go the proxy route and go for the Archives one, but this ticks the box for me. Lee 101-J from what i assume is the late 60s/early 70s. Interesting how it has the "MR" on the chest pocket and not on the label, as i've seen on some. If you get the size right, these jacket fit like an absolute glove, i have to say.

Really happy with the fit. One of the best fitting yokes of my jeans And one pic to show the colour difference of the Gardener with SC1945 jacket

Drying... New UES 400WW on the left. My new favorites!

Day 2 in the Peaks with my lad Walked up Mam Tor… the plan had been to do it early but it was lashing down with rain… we so went later and there were tourists everywhere (ironic I know) Next year, I expect to be the smallest A present had been left at the car pfffff Even more ironically, passed this sign driving back… I did feel I’d been… Denime 10th anniversary ‘37s, Tezomeya and McCooys Daisy Mae… plus more meat Next day, we were in the lido at Haversage before 8am... dodging the blue-rinse old dear brigade swimming two abreast like CHiPs... only different as there were no motorbikes in the pool ... it was a invigorating start to the day Haversage main street And a really nice breakfast… (even more upmarket than Sharrow Vale Road Neal!!) Only 48 hours away... but it felt rejuvenating… the end!

Trying to dissuade myself from getting another pair of jeans by telling myself to keep up with wearing my 50s. Had these for 4 months worn for average 3 days a week. The 13.5 oz is definitely a welcome weight for the warmer weather.

Some detail snaps: Never had a cinch like this before. Already learned the hard way that it needs to be in use, else it'll stab you in the leg when putting them on... Some loose yarns on the inner fly: A few quick fit snaps: After a small amount of wear I'm pretty sure that I've picked the correct size. We're in a heatwave here in London at the moment so my first outing in them was a brief one to the shops... here are measurements after a couple hours: Waist 42cm Front rise 32cm Back rise 40.5cm Hem 24.5cm

@harls My 30’s