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Nothing to get excited about but am watching these Nos Levis 1501 0117 double lock-stitch redlines in a size 35 x 38 on greedbay. The reason l'm watching them, being l'm always trying to 'revaluate' my own pair, which are almost identical but made in 1978. The reason for sharing though is that I've always wondered when the switch between the wash tag stating 8% shrinkage and 10% shrinkage, and l can conclude that it seems from the 1981 model 501 onwards, the 10% label was the norm. Obviously there are anomalies etc but this is not in anyway conclusive as levis labels don't always match garments plus the newer, wider looms that Cone had in to replace the older ones were switched around the early 80s. So maybe that's significant? Fyi These were made at one of the 3 San Fran factories in June of 1980. Anyway enough ramblings. Some photos.. [Edit] Scrap that! Found a 1980 made one with 10% shrinkage label. So l'm guessing the change started (throughout all of the factories?) in 1980 and then implemented when the 1981 flasher was introduced.

No big action, just fit pics

I don't know if this is a hot take or not, but out of all the one/two-person brands I know of, I'd take Ande Whall, especially from before the earthquake or whatever destroyed his original workshop and he made jeans with hidden rivets and stuff. Ande's jeans were affordable and not $700, he actually made and delivered what you ordered, didn't sue you for putting pictures of his jeans in a book, had a unique design of his own instead of trying to be 1000% accurate repro of this one deadstock pair made for two weeks in May 1943, and was totally in control of his own thing instead of having a single retailer in charge of distribution that would hype his pants to the moon and back. That's a combination of factors that to me at least, is hard to beat. The denim community really did lose a real one with Ande.

Wash 3

That’s wild. I’ve been wearing my p55m a few times a week for work since the release and it barely shows any wear other than some light abrasion marks on the cuff.

There's nothing like moving house to demonstrate you have to much stuff and clothes 😐 There's nothing like moving to a bigger house to demonstrate you have plenty of room for more stuff and clothes

Same roof, different angle Everything from work except the 90s canes

I have the opposite experience. The overall durability for M is good . I'm using p55 for casual wear, sp28 for traveling sometimes, breaking in P39 for about 2 years with weekly use and tons of washes. No complaints, except slight pilling on p55 hems due to vector contact. Apparently rubbed the pants with something sharp or so.

^ Just my opinion, but I don’t think so. I believe it simply depends on the setting of the individual operator’s hemming machine.

Kind of, mostly lead by one bad actor. I've been sitting on all the details for a couple of years now, been meaning to type it all up. Hoping I can get to posting it in the next week or two.

Didn’t Roy also make some fake Jack/Knife jeans that were far superior to their own ones?

What i find strange about these folks.. same with Masterson's, they'll jeopardise it all for such a low-level grift.. although i don't condone, i do understand those folks who check out for £100k+ .. because it gets them out of a business that they might not want to be in.. but this bellend above, was doing something he loved (if he didn't love it, why is he still doing it now?) ..and with minimal amounts of internet-shilling, folks were literally queuing up to hand over large sums of cash in exchange for his work, all he had to do was 'the work' and his business would be a success.. but no, throws it all away for a few measly grand.

Same old everything. The T shirt has one of those sparkly iron ons that were everywhere after Superman '78 came out. Jeans are nearing 4 months. Cut my hair the next day.

he's helping them with a new concept of airport stores where all the snacks, magazines and neck pillows are preorder only but you'll never receive them.

The 1922 jeans on the other hand were un-hammered and a danger to leather seats everywhere 😂

So this was neither of you lads then???

I think this is my picture spot now. Since it's hot, I don't tuck my t-shirts anymore. Gildan, buzz, boa

Yea, for me there's a certain sort of internet marketing that really does this as well. I think I've said before I have a lot of sympathy for the grind that is the one person/small business trying to use social media to generate interest and a living - and the sort of pressures that puts on a business and compromises it may demand (not maybe in denim, but in ethos). But just to needle a bit here - being obsessive about patterns and having an uncompromising view of what a good repro is feels hardly unique in this corner, right? I mean, there are other makers with this sort of ethos, even if they land on something a little different - we've long ago concluded there is no *one true repro* for a given year even. But it's like 1) if this dude only wants people who can buy it in person, well alright. I can't do that. Respect to that demand, if it's got to do with him trying to ensure the fit is such and such or people really love it and will have a higher chance of beating it up, or connect to it more given the onus that is put on them for showing up Or 2) if this is a way to generate internet interest and demand for a limited production item and ultimately charge a premium due to said demand then yea, no interest there either. The forum has a few examples of makers who have gotten a big following for their unique craftsmanship and then seemingly crumbled under their own hype, or started running a business in a way that is pretty askew from the sort of historical association that denim conjures. Admittedly, I do think my level of scrutinization of some things is a degree less - well, and maybe scrutinization of other things a degree higher ha. I can understand the best fitting jacket out of a bunch. The little differences in length or width here or there, on the sleeve or down the back or across the shoulder - it can really make all the difference if you've got a few to compare, but that's usually more a combination of the person + maker rather than either alone. That said, I think I'm still not convinced that the hard to getness of it isn't the main thing. Which is fine. Only going off internet pictures and measurements etc. Perhaps one day I get to handle a pair in person and change my mind, but I doubt it. All of that said, this forum is way better obsessing about details than forums about photography equipment. Those places have almost been enough to make me disown my profession! So many words wasted on so little of what makes great photography - but I'll digress and keep it OT here.

^ I think when I first took notice of them, I was drawn in particular to how strongly their denim puckered and twisted: it seemed super lively, which I love That said, it was never enough to make up for how hard it was to purchase. That always feels like a turn off

Sunday happenings + observances: Scritch time Next round of starts, with & without Squirrel Guard Little herb garden: no need for a squirrel guard here: the gnome’s got it covered Morning coffee appreciating the sunflowers

S406XXX M-46 My M-WW2 jacket is currently out for repair, I’ll get some photos of it up once it’s back

Keep going @PrettyBoyTony. Once the 50s get past that initial slow fading and start to pop, they look like totally different jeans. Mine are just getting there after almost a year. I've also started working in the coffee industry again, and occasionally get behind the bar, which is giving it some solid wear and tear and dirt. I also just picked up a new pair of both 50s and 60s with the indigo tab a few weeks ago, too. Excited to start the process over again once my current pairs get a bit more trashed.

I’ve got about 12 months still to wait on a BoT 506xx 💀

Guys.. it's less to do with the water and more to do with the salt content in your sweat, the spices in the foods you eat and where your fingers and body have left sweat / salt deposits on the ferrous. A chap i used to work with.. all of his carbon steel carving tools were black.. mine are all silver.. one day, i was struggling to develop a shape i couldn't visualise.. he said pass me your gouge.. i handed it to him and he took it by the blade, he started to carve out the shape and handed it back.. the next day, his fingerprints were rusted into the steel.. i was pissed but 30yrs after his death, i still have his fingerprints rusted into my carving tool which i find quite poignant.

Started wearing these 03s more consistently. These are coming along nicely. Buttons are starting to show some rust. Pocket bags have lightening up a bit.

Just got back from vacation visiting my parents in Florida, first time traveling with our daughter and she did great! I've heard it gets much more difficult once they're a little older so we decided to take this trip now. Didn't wear the jeans much outside of travel days, but giving them another wash today so I'll update with post wash pics. Got some crazy rain in central Texas while we were away, came back home to our roof slightly leaking but fortunately nothing was damaged. Taking it all in. Walking to the beach with Pawpaw. She really loved the sound of the ocean and did well in the pool too! Always eat as much seafood as I can whenever I'm near the ocean. Saffron and seafood risotto. Grilled out for the 4th. So long, until next time. Heading home. Pups on the ride back home, Rooney has to stay in kennel jail because he's too crazy in the car...

We needed some sea air and Saltburn-by-the-Sea is about the closest coastal 'resort' near us at an 80 minute drive The funicular was open again Fish n Chips (killer calorie and gut overload I now regret!) WoM 5150, FW 1937, Tezomeya, Duke belt, MiJ Cons from Gee, Mrs MJF9's Topo bag

temporarily retiring this for now to focus on other pair, needless to say… incredible fabric!

@harls My 30’s