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Arket - Denime - Duke - WMJ - Nike

Freewheelers Lot506XX 1933-34 • GroundAlls • Sugarcane 1947

after first wash and one day of wear....

Caught by my kid - schlepping all his stuff. Jackman x2, Kapital, WMJ, Nike

rototo / engineered garments / ym factory peaking underneath / at last 147 / skoob

Tilley / Okolehao / Tezomeya / Duke / Word of Mouth / Russell

I like the fit of these quite a bit overall, but one thing I’ve found is that the lower rise means I don’t end up wearing button-up shirts much; the proportions just end up feeling off. On one hand it feels like a shame to be so limited, but on the other hand I think the challenge of putting together more outfits that just rely on simple tee shirts has done a lot to help get me out of a sort of slump that I’d been in for the past few months, which is a pretty cool side effect. (In general, I think that the idea of being forced to get a little more creative with what non-jeans clothes items I wear was a strong point in favor of me joining the contest in the first place.) Anyway, for most of this week we had some collaborators and customers in from out of town @ my job, which meant wearing shirts, which meant wearing different jeans. It felt surprisingly good this morning to get back in the usual flow. …feat. Tilley, Okolehao, Tezomeya, Duke, Russell, plus a bonus shot of our first rose of the year

According to the inflation calculator that would be roughly $49 in today's money, what a steal!

Great Lakes / Rocky Mountain / Union Special / Hollows / The Vanishing West / MOTO

Thx Julian. Maybe also a reason is that are oversized. Normally I wear 34, but those are 37. They are really fast faders. I did just long cycle wash and after I had to pull up legs. I prefer to have double little cuff and I wanted to avoid to have them in the middle of thighs. Now they are with cuff 5 cm above ankles. I have to say, the denime and manufacturing is amazing.... Thank you Simone

Jist show up on ig https://www.instagram.com/p/DHdtVrFTVmg/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Not bad for $2.25!

my heavily abused Freewheelers 1937. Tried to get some good photos

SInce there are plenty of models available (or were at one point) and we already have some discussions in various threads, I thought, it would be fun to have a dedicated thread to the 30s cinch back models to share fit pics, fades and the different models of the various makers. According to TCB it is differentiated roughly between the early, mid and late 1937 models. These are the main difference of the models as our resident scholar on this matter Dr Heech had written before here: "Lvc 1937 at the bottom, Csf 1941 in the middle and FW42's at the top. Both the repro 37 and 42 models have the standard yoke set up, whereas the pair in the middle do not. The standard yoke set up is what we are used to seeing on 501's made from August 1942 up until the present day which sees the bottom panels overlap the top ones, like on the lvc 37's and FW42's shown." So the yoke: 1937- right over left 1941- top over bottom 1942- back to standard from then on bottom over top and left over right. Some issues of the last years: TCB 30s Jeans C Vintage pair of Mr Koizumi from TCB site: Freewheelers Lot.601 XXC 1937 WAREHOUSE - HINOYA EXCLUSIVE - HINOYA 75th Anniversary Model - 1003HXX-DSB Freewheelers Lot 601 XX 1942 SUGAR CANE Super “Denim” Collectibles Lot No. SC49005 BLUE DENIM WAIST OVERALLS “1942” Cushman 22192 1937 MODEL

I think it might also have to do with the fact that they're showing photos of a size 30. I checked their IG and most of the rises / fly spacing appear to be more in line with what you'd expect.

somehow every item is worse than the previous

Andersen-Andersen hat & sweater, TFH shirt, Warehouse pants, golden retriever…

American Optical, RRL, SC, Coronado Leather, 3sixteen, Padmore

Sugar Cane 1945 & 1943 / Armor Lux / Nicks

Best thing to start off with is the patent of the hidden rivet and the man behind it, this eliminates alot of myths. For example (pinched straight from the interweb) - the dates of patent application (7/7/'34) and patent application being granted (30/4/'35) show a time well before the red tab was attached to the (now) plain back pockets. This eliminates the idea of an exposed rivet model with a tab but opens the door to a possible non-tabbed late 1935/earlier 1936 model? ( Don't worry, one hasn't surfaced yet but They are probably listening). Still, plenty of time to see the experimental hidden rivet model in different guises although the only examples l have apart from the 501XXC-branded hidden rivet model could be customer requests (remember the dude ranches started springing up around 1934) but here they are anyway - Firstly, hidden rivet model with machine pressed suspender buttons. These are not the press on types available to customers as a separate attachment. I have seen two examples of this model. This #11 from the 501XX book. Secondly, hidden rivet model with under-tucked/stitched back centre belt loop. This was a feature on the previous, exposed back pocket rivet 501 model around 1934/35 which ties it in as a possible short experimental model. I have only seen two sets of images of this model, both owned by the Berberjin guy. Detail - If anything it shows that there were a constant flow of ideas coming in to make improvements to the 501XX at the time, alot of this was down to one man - Milton Grunbaum, most famous for the invention of the Concealed copper rivet. Milton Grunbaum worked his way up through the ranks at LS &Co to become the factory manager around 1922 and was the creative mind behind alot of proposed and implemented modifications to the structure and strength of the 501XX, for example one of the first improvements was to eliminate the linen thread which was prone to rot, so cotton thread was substituted. His idea of setting up of the modern production line within the factory revolutionised productivity. Improving rivets from the old school tooled head type to the more modern round headed type we're used to now. He was probably responsible for the chainstitched waistband and decisions behind the branding of buttons c.1927. Probably also had a role in the idea behind the pop-on suspender buttons c.1937 and the yoke construction c.1941. All this suggests constant tweaks, constant changes, some subtle, some not so. Obviously the two major changes for most were the Red tab and the hidden rivets. The red tab was soley advertised, briefly, by way of a painted wooden cowboy torso with a pair of 60" inseam 501's nailed to it before the patent 1999927A for Levis hidden rivets was on the top of the first pocket flasher attached to the back pocket of the '1937 model' 501XX. So in conclusion (in my mind at least) there are 4 types of 1937 model and one anomaly. I will make my post about it next.

Are brogues an option? I have a pair of Cheaney’s that I bought for a wedding but never wear suit and they work with a lot of other stuff. Btw im width size EE (sometimes even EEE) and their G width fits me quite good https://www.cheaney.co.uk/arthur-iii-oxford-brogue-in-dark-leaf-calf-leather-p5

That YM Factory piece is super cool!

Some random shiz that played on my ipod this am..

I'll be making the trip to inspiration this year as well. From what I remember from past inspirations Ryo and Hiro tend to bring new offerings in limited sizes. I scored the duck vest 2 years ago and the cossack jacket some years back as well. I'm hoping they bring a few pairs of those one back pocket trousers.

Sold the Honda, got a good bike.

@Broark For what it’s worth, I’m just now reading through the S&S email from a few days ago and it looks like Ryo and Hiro will be visiting S&S a few weeks after Inspiration to announce a new collab. model. If this is anything like previous years, they might save some extra stock of the Inspiration jeans to sell while there. No guarantee, obviously, but it could be worth reaching out.

@vIGGiou riou Those are looking great

Samurai makes a 17oz WWII model, S3100vx

Makes sense. I think it's mostly the top button looks cheap-ish and the back pocket shape/sewing a bit forced.

Morning @yung_flynn I can't give you the numbers i'm afraid.. i've owned numerous pairs of these which i bought worn and i own numerous pairs which are still raw but i've never actually washed a raw pair, i'm pretty sure we can figure this out tho.. You look like a slim guy so you only need worry about waist and inseam.. regarding the waist, I would always recommend going up one size if you want to achieve the same fit as a SC47.. they shrink from tagged, the shrinkage is expected / not irregular but bear in mind that the SC47 already has quite a nipped waist compared to a lot of other brands with the same tag size.. if you look back at pg1 there is a photo of the (raw) waists being measured. The inseam is not ungenerous.. from memory, it shrinks to at least 33" but probably closer to 34" (i think SC47s usually end up around 33.5) .. check out the fit comparisons i did on pg2.. all of the inseams on the M41001 are unhemmed.. i'm 5'11" a tailor would probably say i'm a 31-32" inside leg and they're all worn with a double cuff.. i could still make out the (32") tag of the darker pair.. they were all roughly the same size in the waist so i'd say they were all tagged 32" and they were all slightly too small albeit still wearable so again, maybe just go up a single tag size if you're used to a SC47 fit.. those photos were taken around 14yrs ago, all of those jeans have long deceased so i can't measure but i'm sure someone here has a washed / unhemmed M41001 they can measure?

A few denim pieces: TCB Jeans triple pleated blouse, natural indigo, size 42. No clue what's a fair price for this. How's 200€? Shipped from Berlin. Long out of stock, this triple pleated jacket is made from a rope-dyed right-hand twill, this one wash denim comes in at a nice and light 8 oz. making it ideal for the warmer months. Measurements: Chest: 55 Shoulders: 49 Length: 65 TCB Jeans Type 3 / Type III denim jacket, size 40, made in Japan. Price: 65€? Shipped from Berlin. Purchased sometime in maybe 2015/16. I had handwarmer pockets added, then subsequently tore them out when I got a bit too chubby and wanted to slim the jacket down. Jacket has also had a light bleach bath to speed up the fades - which are great - but came at the cost of the red tab, which is now white. Lots of life left and - most importantly - has the cool Levi’s knock-off TCB patch, which they were then forced to stop doing. Lastly, the chest pockets are a bit bigger, so they can perfectly fit an iPhone - crucial! Measurements: Chest: 52cm Shoulders: 46cm Length: 67cm LVC Triple Pleat Blouse, size 44. Price 200€ Shipped from Berlin. Just received and flipping right away as it's not for me. Pics are not mine. I'll sew the missing button on for you. Will do measurements a bit later, but it's much bigger than the TCB. The TCB is kind of undersized and this one is oversized... Roy RT1002 Roy Tapered Cone Mills Black Seed Denim, 30. Price 350€ Bought these on eBay about 5 years ago, but never wore them myself. They seem to have been hemmed to around 30". I wish I could provide better measurements, but I don't have a tape measure here. The jeans have been worn, maybe 10 times, but look like they've never been washed. Regarding shipping: Item is located in NY and will be shipped from there. Also, does not come from smoke free home. They're in storage at my parents house, but my mom smokes, so these are bound to be stinky.

^ Their bananas must be great if you’re willing to pay the shipping from Japan! 🤣

I still buy CDs (and occasionally magazines) from Rakuten shops.. they're a 1/4 of the price of eBay or Discogs but the cost of shipping eliminates any financial gain i might make.. so i just leave them with the proxy service until i buy bike bits or whatevs and add them to th package up to the cost of £135, that way i can avoid UK border charges.

Another arced version of the M41001 (cloth patch version) in a good size for a decent price - tagged 33/36. They look to be unwashed, unsoaked, and unworn too based off the measurements. SUGAR CANE M41001D ノンウォッシュ リジット W33 新品 デッドストック シュガーケーン スマイルステッチ セルビッチ ボタンフライ 90's item details | JDirectItems Auction | One Map by FROM JAPAN One day, I'll probably cave and grab one of these for myself.

@Talan Lifestyle is a big factor yeah; if you don’t walk much your jeans won’t fade much…that said, yeah, these are crazy fast fading, right up there with some of the newer Warehouse denims

Vintage rayon shirt, At Last & Co. 147, Converse

TCB 50s, NB and Fatface

One of the things that I miss about living in Evanston was being able to run next to the frozen Lake Michigan in winter with a view of the Chicago skyline In theory, we’re only 30 minutes from Lake Huron now but far from actual open water. Thankfully, the trade-off is that there are lots more forested areas here which are also beautiful in late winter

There is just one answer: In all seriousness, this denim fades rather quickly

Stopped through the Bay Area on my way back to Seattle and spent an afternoon working on a close friend’s new (to her) Saab.. it was freezing there yesterday!!! im wearing a vintage jacket, rocky mtn featherbed hoodie, duke belt, tender 132p and flat head boots.. and some merino underlayers.. and 2 pairs of socks lol

Took delivery of my Good Wear jacket:

maybe the time for first wash...

Not looking ready for this full sun out here. Mostly the same..ish. Warehouse, WMJ, Redwings (in the shadows)

Been wearing these Russell Zephyrs lots for maybe 4 months now; the lightweight nubuck / faux chamois leather picks up grease and indigo like crazy so they look a lot older (to me at least) Never thought I’d find slip-on boots to be this comfortable / useful. When I picked them up I really just wanted something fast to put on and off that had high enough shafts to be good for gardening / cold-weather car washing / whatever chores, but they stay put well enough when walking that I’ve probably ended up wearing them as my main shoes more than half the days that I’ve had them. A++ would strongly recommend

my heavily worn and abused Neal chambray.

Next prewash update Ooe Yofukuten Lot OA01XX-0522: The pair feels very light and extremely comfortable on the body (sometimes I feel Zimbabwe cotton like FC), fit well on the body, joyful experience Thread count, thread color and stitches per inch are well balanced throughout the pair and helps create an elegant look and feel. Consistent placement of iPhone in right front pocket has left marks of usage (not very prominent) Whiskers are prominent Buttons have become shiny (couldn't capture well by camera) Usage of wallet in left back pocket developed marks, waiting for blowout with more usage Nice puckering on back pockets and yoke raised loops have started fading nicely I liked slight puckering of waist band (maybe I will not like extensive puckering) raised loop like double stitching, from crotch area to yoke with raised cloth , caused similar character like "raised loops fading" (either deliberate by OA or incidental , though very nice). leather patch still intact and very soft like silk train tracks are prominent copper rivets at pockets have started change in color honey combs the best roping, I have experienced so far among all Japanese Raw Denim pairs I have though not well captured by camera but stitching on inseam looks very elegant An unwanted crease during 1st wash also got prominent (my mistake during first wash)

Very nice! I love the B-6 he made for me. The collar on yours is a nice flourish, but the zipped pockets would bug me. On the subject of JC and GW, I visited him today. He's a very congenial guy and of course absolutely passionate about his craft. My slot is coming up and I placed an order for one of his civilian jackets. I did try the cross zip Mojave I had tried on in 2021. It still fits. Too bad it has an owner...

Recently stumbled upon these: Good Old Co.. They have a 1943XX jeans. And a 1942XX denim jacket.

These are an absolute bargain! They look like a o/w (possibly unworn) M41001 W35 ¥12k with 3 days remaining https://zenmarket.jp/en/auction.aspx?itemCode=k1163477017

Long time lurker first time poster. The Muramasa guy has also listed versions of 1943 jacket with fake Tenderloin patch (well I guess Levis and Sweet Orr inspired with the tug of war design?) https://zenmarket.jp/en/auction.aspx?itemCode=1159072045 This seems to be the dude https://www.instagram.com/muramasa_glove/?hl=en and https://www.instagram.com/muramasa_jeans_factory/?hl=en Rakuten store (no jeans for sale on there though, just Mickey Mouse logo'd fake Rolexes and box logo tees) https://item.rakuten.co.jp/royal-west/c/0000000121/ From his Facebook he does genuinely seem to be in Osaka https://www.facebook.com/yuya.shiozaki.5 and likes Triathlon a lot. I think Takuya Kimura comes into it because Kimura seems to wear a genuine obscure Japanese brand called SC Subculture https://sc-subculture.jp. Some of the Muramasa stuff is also sold with a Subculture patch and pictures of Kimura (eg. https://zenmarket.jp/en/auction.aspx?itemCode=n1159212942) SC Subculture's boss' instagram posting about Kimura https://www.instagram.com/p/C1vTqR9Pckn/?next=%2Fbluegodzi%2Ftagged%2F&locale=在线定制塔吉克斯坦TEF证书联系{威信%2BTG%2F飞机%3A%40buth2788}sjwNH%3F%3F%3F%3F%3F%3Fѧ%3F%3FƾSwQuO&img_index=1 not sure if Kimura actually talks about the brand on his YouTube or is just wearing Subculture in the video. I think the Kiwami items are intended to mimic Neatstyle as they have the same blank patch with just WWII and waist size. I find it kind of strange/funny cause you wouldn't think Neatstyle would be big enough to be worth bootlegging. What I do enjoy is that he seems to use a bunch of different red tabs (Tenderloin jacket has IRON'S red tab). Although it all seems a bit fishy to me, they do seem to sell for reasonable money eg. this used Muramasa jacket on 2nd Street (which also shows inner tag) https://en.2ndstreet.jp/goods/detail/goodsId/2340110413269/shopsId/31327 and some competitive bidding on Y! as mentioned above.